5th Gen Calipers

[chayos00]

Wow, you the first to report that this upgrade isn't worth it. While I agree that braking performance so far has been a relatively positive thing, in that there are no numbers of improved braking (objective testing results). However the consensus is that the brakes feel better. Good enough for me. The main reason for this mod is to prevent the stuck caliper that plague the 4th gen. So far, that seems to be the case and IMO this upgrade is worth every penny. My front calipers are currently seized and need to be replaced ASAP. May as well do all four.

I would agree that I seem to be the only one to report it wasn't worth it. However since I live in Arizona and don't see much moisture on my vehicle the calipers of 4th gen's around here don't seem to have the same issues as those in winter prone areas. Now if they are frozen, yes I would agree it's totally worth it. But for daily driving it doesn't seem to have made a difference for me vs stock.

I am running the regular Akebono pads and wished I went with the performance one's for better bite. I am actually surprised you are not happy with the upgrade. You might need to do a good brake fluid flush to get better pedal feel!

I actually did a TON of bleeding my brakes as I had installed the SS brake lines too and I put probably 6 32oz jugs of brake fluid through the whole system. First it was 2 jugs for all 4 corners and then the pedal still felt wrong, so I did another full bottle for each corner to bleed the brakes and they finally felt just like stock was. Since November braking feel has remained consistent, no changing feeling of it from how stock felt. However I've gone 4x4ing since and figure it's not a bad idea to once again soon flush the fluid due to the master cylinder getting it's full use and "flush" as I would call it using ATRAC. I doubt this will change braking feel, but it's not a bad idea to try.

I do wonder if another kind of brake pad would change the feel for me.

 

[Arthur4R]

I would agree that I seem to be the only one to report it wasn't worth it. However since I live in Arizona and don't see much moisture on my vehicle the calipers of 4th gen's around here don't seem to have the same issues as those in winter prone areas. Now if they are frozen, yes I would agree it's totally worth it. But for daily driving it doesn't seem to have made a difference for me vs stock.







I actually did a TON of bleeding my brakes as I had installed the SS brake lines too and I put probably 6 32oz jugs of brake fluid through the whole system. First it was 2 jugs for all 4 corners and then the pedal still felt wrong, so I did another full bottle for each corner to bleed the brakes and they finally felt just like stock was. Since November braking feel has remained consistent, no changing feeling of it from how stock felt. However I've gone 4x4ing since and figure it's not a bad idea to once again soon flush the fluid due to the master cylinder getting it's full use and "flush" as I would call it using ATRAC. I doubt this will change braking feel, but it's not a bad idea to try.



I do wonder if another kind of brake pad would change the feel for me.

If your pistons were not seized it is defiantly not worth it. I only did it because I has an issue and people mentioned then5th gen don't have that issue. Did you do the 40 brake pedal pumps while the car is off? There is a procedure you need to follow after a brake flush that stiffens up the pedal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[chayos00]

If your pistons were not seized it is defiantly not worth it. I only did it because I has an issue and people mentioned then5th gen don't have that issue. Did you do the 40 brake pedal pumps while the car is off? There is a procedure you need to follow after a brake flush that stiffens up the pedal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yup, I did lots of looking for the tricks of bleeding the brakes, that was one method I did follow to bleed them too. I also used a vacuum assisted bleed method to get any air out. Can't recall all that I did, but I did any suggestion I found for bleeding the brakes. One of the best tips, was to put the 32oz bottle into the top of the reservoir to keep it from going low.

 

[Slowgoat]

Yup, I did lots of looking for the tricks of bleeding the brakes, that was one method I did follow to bleed them too. I also used a vacuum assisted bleed method to get any air out. Can't recall all that I did, but I did any suggestion I found for bleeding the brakes. One of the best tips, was to put the 32oz bottle into the top of the reservoir to keep it from going low.

If you have done the 40 slow pumps, don't worry about it, but if you haven't, here is the link to the answer.

It has worked for a lot of people to firm up pedal feel after a bleed.

Start with reply #34:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/223054-5th-gen-caliper-install-gone-wrong-3.html#post2424044

 

[chayos00]

If you have done the 40 slow pumps, don't worry about it, but if you haven't, here is the link to the answer.

It has worked for a lot of people to firm up pedal feel after a bleed.

Start with reply #34:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/223054-5th-gen-caliper-install-gone-wrong-3.html#post2424044

Well I don't think I tried it after my bleed, only in the process of doing it.

 

[CookieRoe]

Well I don't think I tried it after my bleed, only in the process of doing it.

Yep, 100% agree that if one doesn't have any issues with their brakes, doing the upgrade is probably a waste of time and money. Here in the rust belt, our rigs get hit with salt and that stupid grime that roadcrews saturate the road with right before and during a snow/ice storm. Great for traction but murder on our vehicles.

Good luck with getting your pedal right!

 

[Rannd]

Had a right front 5th caliper from rockauto lock up on me.

Sigh.

 

[Slowgoat]

Had a right front 5th caliper from rockauto lock up on me.

Sigh.

I've been afraid of this since someone said they were seeing frozen calipers in 5th gens a few months ago at the dealer where they worked as a tech.

Crap!

 

[chayos00]

I've been afraid of this since someone said they were seeing frozen calipers in 5th gens a few months ago at the dealer where they worked as a tech.

Crap!

I think the only solution is to move south into the desert. LOL.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Slowgoat]

I think the only solution is to move south into the desert. LOL.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

I may have too, because I am definitely screwed up here in the Great White North!!

My wife saw all the salt buildup in the gym parking lot this evening and said, "Is that broken glass? Is it safe to drive on that?"

It was so thick it looked like 10 windows got busted out. I laughed, but it really did look like that!

 

[chayos00]

I may have too, because I am definitely screwed up here in the Great White North!!

My wife saw all the salt buildup in the gym parking lot this evening and said, "Is that broken glass? Is it safe to drive on that?"

It was so thick it looked like 10 windows got busted out. I laughed, but it really did look like that!

I've always thought it would be nice to have a drive through car wash before parking in the garage living up where salt is used on-the-go roads. Just to keep it from rusting up a car.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Rannd]

The caliper hasn't even been on the car for a full year. They rusted pretty fast because I didn't paint them or anything. We barely had any snow or salt on the roads here so that had nothing to do with it. I park mine inside my garage at night as well.

 

[CookieRoe]

The caliper hasn't even been on the car for a full year. They rusted pretty fast because I didn't paint them or anything. We barely had any snow or salt on the roads here so that had nothing to do with it. I park mine inside my garage at night as well.

This is why I'll be using the G2 caliper paint kit for all four calipers. But yes, it's a shame they aren't coated with some sort of anti-oxidation coat. If it is, it's worthless.

 

[CookieRoe]

Let's crunch some numbers.............

Ok, pricing everything out. Just wanted to illustrate approximately how much this upgrade is going to cost. A couple of posts touch on this subject, but doesn't go into detail.

Here we go:

OEM (Conicelli Toyota online parts)

• Front Rotor $55.00 x 2 = 110.00
• Brake Pads $42.12 (set)=42.12
• Front Calip $314.86 x 2 =629.72
• Rear Rotor $68.90 x 2 = 137.80
• Brake Pads $44.85 (set) = 44.85
• Rear Calip $181.29 x 2 =362.48
• Speed Bleeders SS (4, see below for details) =60.00 (speed bleeder.com)
• SS Hose Rear Calip =22.79 (PureFJcruiser)
• SS Hose Front Calip, 34.00 x 2 =68.00 (PureFJcruiser)
• SS Hose Rear Axl, 34.00 x 2 = 68.00 (PureFJcruiser)

Grand Total: $1545.76

Centric Calipers (Rockauto)

• Front Rotor (#120.44174 Premium Disc, 5th gen, 54.79 x 2 = 109.58
• Front Brake Pads (ASP976 Akebono, set) = 52.89
• Rear Rotor (#120.44128 Premium Disc, 4th gen, 33.79 x 2 = 67.58
• Rear right Calip, #141.44587, price: 105.79, Core: 65.00, Price: 40.79
• Rear left Calip, #141.44588, price: 105.79, Core: 65.00, Price: 40.79
• Front right Calip, #141.44287, price: 130.79, Core: 75.00, Price: 55.79
• Front left Calip, #141.44288, price: 130.79, Core: 75.00, Price: 55.89
• Rear Brake pads (#ASP606 Akebono, set) = 48.79
• Speed Bleeders (front: #SB1010SS, 15.00 x 2) =30.00 (speed bleeder.com)
• Speed Bleeders (rear: #SB7100SS, 15.00 x 2) =30.00 (speed bleeder.com)
• SS Hose Rear Calip #95044507, set =22.79 (PureFJcruiser)
• SS Hose Front Calip x 2 (#5500FJT-AP-F, 34.00 x 2) = 68.00 (PureFJcruiser)
• SS Hose Rear Axl, #5500FJ-AP, 34.00 x 2 = 68.00 (PureFJcruiser)
• G2 Caliper Paint = 40.96 (Amazon)

Gran Total up front: $1010.89
Gran total after Core Exchange: $731.89

Not cheap, however worth gold if your goal is to no longer have sticking calipers. I have 2 confirmed, I may as well replace all four. My pads are also shot to hell. Anyway, I'm going with Centric Premium rotors (non-slotted nor drilled). Depending on what rotor/pads you get, this amount can vary. Note: Because of continued complaints of rust, I'll be painting the calipers silver with the G2 product. I'll also go with Akebono's pads as they seem to be of high quality. Not included is brake fluid and caliper/pin grease. I'm sure most of you already have some. Also not included is shipping cost, both to get everything and send your cores back). As far as I know, Toyota doesn't accept core (correct me if I'm wrong).

My numbers may be a tad off, let me know! Also, I might have something wrong or missing something, again, let me know.

Hope this helps anyone! I'll be ordering in the coming days (I'm waiting for nicer weather to tackle this, I HATE working when it's cold out)

 

[Blute]

Getting ready to do this mod on my '06. The brakes have been pulsating badly for some time now.

Does anyone know a link to a good 4th gen DIY on replacing calipers/rotors/pads/bleeding brakes/etc? I did some searching, but seemed like I was just finding bits and pieces, and nothing comprehensive. I know I had some good info on our 3rd Gen, which I may have to dig up, but was hoping for something similar on the 4th Gen.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Dry-fly]

My brakes are shot, again. I just found this thread though. I wanted to upgrade to DBA rotors but every shop around me *freaks* out when I've asked if they'll be able to turn them in the future because they're slotted. DBA and Slee Off Road clearly state to machine/turn them like any other rotor.....anyway, that idea went down in flames. I'm SICK of having to get brake work done every 12 months. What is the best, agreed on consensus for beefing up or improving our brakes? I have an appointment Thursday AM for yet another brake job, last one was Feb. 2016.

 

[chayos00]

My brakes are shot, again. I just found this thread though. I wanted to upgrade to DBA rotors but every shop around me *freaks* out when I've asked if they'll be able to turn them in the future because they're slotted. DBA and Slee Off Road clearly state to machine/turn them like any other rotor.....anyway, that idea went down in flames. I'm SICK of having to get brake work done every 12 months. What is the best, agreed on consensus for beefing up or improving our brakes? I have an appointment Thursday AM for yet another brake job, last one was Feb. 2016.

Wow, every 12 months? My factory brakes on my 08 were changed at 100-102k just in November! Sounds like if someone is doing your brakes they are giving you sub par products and charging more. How many miles between brakes? Have you looked at them yourself? I never trust shops to work on my truck.

Sent from my HTC6535LVW using Tapatalk

 

[Dry-fly]

I'm well past doing brake work on my vehicles. Lumbar fusion took care of that. I do trust the guys that have been servicing it though. This 2007 V8, 4x4 is my 6th 4Runner. (18" wheels btw). I think I've made it 12k miles on this job and my steering wheel is vibrating like crazy while braking as well as light squealing. They have all had subpar brakes, going back to 1985. I'm ready to put this problem to bed!

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

My brakes are shot, again. I just found this thread though. I wanted to upgrade to DBA rotors but every shop around me *freaks* out when I've asked if they'll be able to turn them in the future because they're slotted. DBA and Slee Off Road clearly state to machine/turn them like any other rotor.....anyway, that idea went down in flames. I'm SICK of having to get brake work done every 12 months. What is the best, agreed on consensus for beefing up or improving our brakes? I have an appointment Thursday AM for yet another brake job, last one was Feb. 2016.

Some good info from the Evo forum I was a "Super Moderator" of... There's good info from race car drivers, vendors, and manufacturers with "lesser" opinions littered therein: Resurfacing Brake Rotors - evolutionm.net

Cliff notes: Places wanting to turn your rotors every time they touch the system are taking you for a "ride". They are removing the very mass the rotors use to work. If you are not changing compound and have no brake pulsing, just swap pads (as long as rotors are still have minimum thickness). If you have pulsing ("warped rotors" cough bullshit cough) simply taking an even hand with scotchbrite pad will usually solve that as it is uneven pad transfer NOT "warped rotors"!

Turning rotors has been one of the longest service industry scams in automotive existence. I'm of the opinion you don't "turn" rotors, you "clean" or replace them... Coming from an aerospace manufacturing back ground to include 8 years wrenching on rally cars, and about 20 years wrenching for a check.

 

[Dry-fly]

@ Zeus....the problem is, I can't find any mechanics locally that share your mentality concerning brake jobs. I'm quite confident that the Australian DBA rotrs and something along the lines of Hawk pads would solve 80% of my problem, but nobody will do a "correct" brake job as you describe on these parts down the road.