5th Gen Calipers

just did mine yesterday. havent been able to test it as i still need to bleed it all. fronts went on in an hour.. the rears tho.. omfg.

CAUTION on the rear discs.. major PITA. Mine would not come off.. tried the 2 bolts, sort of worked, cracked both rotors / stripped the threads they were so stuck on. took 30 mins / side with a 5 lb sledge and LOTS of pblaster (yes on the parking brake shoes) to get them to come off. they didn't seem to drag, but i'm guessing the rotors were original. the rotor surface where the shoe contacts didn't seem THAT grooved but they did not want to come off. there is SUPPOSED to be a hole thru the rotor to access the parking brake adjuster but not on mine. windows went nowhere. this is a bay area ca car its whole life - no rust anywhere. east coast guys.. get out the plasma cutter.

The parking brake mechaniism is a NIGHTMARE and i had to completely disassemble / reassemble both sides since it fell apart whacking the rotors off. it eventually went back together but it was HOURS of fiddling, cursing, doing, redoing, re re doing, cursing some more, thowing tools, etc. and now im sure the adjustment will be off on the parking brake so it will go to the dealer to get fixed and negate any savings of having wasted an entire saturday crawling around in the driveway.

never again

fwiw i went with all centric. parts are nice. in hindsight i'd get facory painted caliepers at any cost. i used the g2 brush on kit and it's also a colossal PITA. you have to do it in 1 shot since the paint wont keep, and trying to get all the nooks / crannnies of the calipers painted made me want to strangle a kitten. tape / hang / aerosol would be much easier.

Not trying to beat a man when he's down but did you adjust the parking braking in before you did all this? For all of those reading, there is a little gear at the 6-oclock position of the parking brake assembly that is only visible when you rotate your rear rotor so that the ONE hole that goes all the way through shows the way. a headlamp or a flashlight helps. you use a long, skinny flathead screw driver to adjust that gear to relieve the pressure from the parking brake so you don't have this issue.

Sounds to me like you may have forgotten this VERY important step?

Edit: Seems like you didn't have a hole through? Are you sure you just didn't miss it? I have done several rear rotor jobs in the recent past and it can trick you. that adjustment gear will make or brake (pun) your whole day.
 
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just did mine yesterday. havent been able to test it as i still need to bleed it all. fronts went on in an hour.. the rears tho.. omfg.

CAUTION on the rear discs.. major PITA. Mine would not come off.. tried the 2 bolts, sort of worked, cracked both rotors / stripped the threads they were so stuck on. took 30 mins / side with a 5 lb sledge and LOTS of pblaster (yes on the parking brake shoes) to get them to come off. they didn't seem to drag, but i'm guessing the rotors were original. the rotor surface where the shoe contacts didn't seem THAT grooved but they did not want to come off. there is SUPPOSED to be a hole thru the rotor to access the parking brake adjuster but not on mine. windows went nowhere. this is a bay area ca car its whole life - no rust anywhere. east coast guys.. get out the plasma cutter.

The parking brake mechaniism is a NIGHTMARE and i had to completely disassemble / reassemble both sides since it fell apart whacking the rotors off. it eventually went back together but it was HOURS of fiddling, cursing, doing, redoing, re re doing, cursing some more, thowing tools, etc. and now im sure the adjustment will be off on the parking brake so it will go to the dealer to get fixed and negate any savings of having wasted an entire saturday crawling around in the driveway.

never again

fwiw i went with all centric. parts are nice. in hindsight i'd get facory painted caliepers at any cost. i used the g2 brush on kit and it's also a colossal PITA. you have to do it in 1 shot since the paint wont keep, and trying to get all the nooks / crannnies of the calipers painted made me want to strangle a kitten. tape / hang / aerosol would be much easier.

HOLY HELL!!! We may as well have done them together. I did mine with a friend. The DAMN rears rotor took us about 20 min each to take off. We thought it had crazy rust. Turns out, the ebrake shoes wouldn't let the rotor go. Just like you, one of the springs from the ebrake assembly popped off and that supposed "window" was Waaaaaaaay too small to see what you were doing in order to properly reinstall them. With both rear rotors and reinstalling the springs took us about 2-3 hours. Of course we didn't have the special tool to do this.....What a whore!!!!!!!!!!!!!! After installing everything, I went to pull out (test drive) and hear something loose in the rear passenger wheel. Back to my friend's garage and to take the wheel off and sure enough, the stupid goddamn spring sprung loose and was dancing around inside making noise. Luckily no damage to the rotor, but WOW............ we were not happy. I felt bad for my friend who did most of the work. So there is a special tool to get those springs and plate into the ebrake assembly nice and neat, but we didn't have it. We had to improvise and it took hours. UUrghhh.

I, too, used G2 paint and originally thought there was too little to completely cover all four calipers. I was wrong. There is plenty. Yes it was a pain to paint every nook and cranny on the calipers, but I manage to do it. I was listening to music on youtube while I was painting, so I relaxed with it. I had great results.


Getting back to the ebrake dilemma, I ended up leaving my rig so that Toyota original parts can be ordered and replaced. I don't trust the $30 ebrake kit AutoZone offers. Also, we have a better idea on how to install ebrake shoe spring thingie. I think we "fudged" when we reinstalled the spring, plate and pin. The end of the pin goes through the other side of the axl and to leave it stay in place, we hammered it bent so it wouldn't move. After all this came apart, we couldn't trust it again.

Bleeding: My friend did the pumping AND gravity method. Even still, my brake pedal seem to travel further down and "with less force". It wasn't squishy/mushy, but it didn't feel 100% right. Returning to this thread I see that you have to give it time for when doing the "gravity bleed" method. Note: the loud "beep" coming from the dash seems to indicate a warning that there is little pressure in the system.............. am I right???

Anyway, some pics:

painting with G2 silver. I liked the product alot and had great results.
D01041C6-BA55-4407-9CCD-760E5E19EE9C_zpsu5hkijlb.jpg~original


Hospital bed
700ED259-76E1-48CB-B81B-1FBDD09F561A_zpsunmjou6b.jpg~original


New rotors/calipers:
672EE6D1-750F-4E49-ACA5-0C8844ECA29D_zpscabvlvgx.jpg~original


E5A28DE7-E879-4E7F-AAF9-15D6B909C19C_zpszznjvmil.jpg~original


Axl SS lines were a little long. They were touching the fuel tank so we zip tied them so they dont touch.
BDD29E95-9F8D-47B3-9866-F01CDCB2EDFD_zpsh9kmaqmd.jpg~original


found that my frond end links were not in good shape. Replaced them.
0878F3D2-B4CA-464F-967B-ADF454C82291_zpshrtdtbh4.jpg~original


As I type this, we are waiting for the ebrake parts. Even though this project hasn't concluded, I'm happy, but wow. Murphy's law took over this project.
 
Not trying to beat a man when he's down but did you adjust the parking braking in before you did all this? For all of those reading, there is a little gear at the 6-oclock position of the parking brake assembly that is only visible when you rotate your rear rotor so that the ONE hole that goes all the way through shows the way. a headlamp or a flashlight helps. you use a long, skinny flathead screw driver to adjust that gear to relieve the pressure from the parking brake so you don't have this issue.

Sounds to me like you may have forgotten this VERY important step?

Edit: Seems like you didn't have a hole through? Are you sure you just didn't miss it? I have done several rear rotor jobs in the recent past and it can trick you. that adjustment gear will make or brake (pun) your whole day.

i didnt miss it. tried to get at it but couldn't get a window to line up at the 6oclock position. might have just not done it right.
 
Not trying to beat a man when he's down but did you adjust the parking braking in before you did all this? For all of those reading, there is a little gear at the 6-oclock position of the parking brake assembly that is only visible when you rotate your rear rotor so that the ONE hole that goes all the way through shows the way. a headlamp or a flashlight helps. you use a long, skinny flathead screw driver to adjust that gear to relieve the pressure from the parking brake so you don't have this issue.

Sounds to me like you may have forgotten this VERY important step?

Edit: Seems like you didn't have a hole through? Are you sure you just didn't miss it? I have done several rear rotor jobs in the recent past and it can trick you. that adjustment gear will make or brake (pun) your whole day.

AS I read this, I deeply SIGHED. So, this certainly helps when taking the rear rotors off. However, if the springs launches out, getting those springs back in there is a MoFo.
 
HOLY HELL!!! We may as well have done them together.

---snip-----

As I type this, we are waiting for the ebrake parts. Even though this project hasn't concluded, I'm happy, but wow. Murphy's law took over this project.

yeap. what a nightmare. im going to bleed it tonight, and i KNOW that's also going to be an mfing pita and i'm going to be left with a shit pedal. #optimism.
 
I haven't done my brakes as of yet, but I have done 100s of brake jobs in my life, old school drums brakes of various design, and just about very kind of disk brakes, but never on a 4Runner.

That being said I sure wish someone would post photos of the "dreaded" e-brake assembly before installing the rear rotor, not ever dealing with this setup I'm having a hard time understanding why it such a PITA, from what I have read it sounds very much like or similar to most old drum style brake setups, I would just like to see a photo.
 
I haven't done my brakes as of yet, but I have done 100s of brake jobs in my life, old school drums brakes of various design, and just about very kind of disk brakes, but never on a 4Runner.



That being said I sure wish someone would post photos of the "dreaded" e-brake assembly before installing the rear rotor, not ever dealing with this setup I'm having a hard time understanding why it such a PITA, from what I have read it sounds very much like or similar to most old drum style brake setups, I would just like to see a photo.



I did my rear brakes but didn't touch the rear brake... did I do something wrong or..


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I did my rear brakes but didn't touch the rear brake... did I do something wrong or..


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You're saying you did your rear brakes, but didn't touch the rear brake???

I'm assuming you meant you didn't touch the e-brakes?

If all you did was replace the pads and possibly the calipers but didn't remove the rotor/disk you would never get to or see the e-brake parts/assembly, which are located within the rear rotor/disk, so you didn't do anything wrong, unless your e-brakes shoes are worn out and need replacing, which I wouldn't guess is the case, the e-brake shoes shouldn't never really wear out since the only time you would use it is when you park, or in the case of total brake failure you use it to stop the vehicle.
 
I haven't done my brakes as of yet, but I have done 100s of brake jobs in my life, old school drums brakes of various design, and just about very kind of disk brakes, but never on a 4Runner.

That being said I sure wish someone would post photos of the "dreaded" e-brake assembly before installing the rear rotor, not ever dealing with this setup I'm having a hard time understanding why it such a PITA, from what I have read it sounds very much like or similar to most old drum style brake setups, I would just like to see a photo.

Sorry, I don't have a photo of it, and it's been about a year since I replaced my brakes, but if I remember correctly, there wasn't much to it. You basically have to remember to adjust your e-brake at each rotor so that it will not be making any contact. There is a little hole you can put a flat head screw driver though and turn the star nut (?), one way tightens the other way loosen. I'm not sure there was much more to it.
 
Also did away with the clunk sound when starting from a stop (which I thought was the drivetrain clunk) but come to find out was just a sticky caliper.

Thank you for this! I've been thinking it was one of my shocks or the drivetrain. Might need to do this upgrade after-all.
 
Sorry, I don't have a photo of it, and it's been about a year since I replaced my brakes, but if I remember correctly, there wasn't much to it. You basically have to remember to adjust your e-brake at each rotor so that it will not be making any contact. There is a little hole you can put a flat head screw driver though and turn the star nut (?), one way tightens the other way loosen. I'm not sure there was much more to it.

That what I have gathered from reading about the e-brake, they sound rather basic as far as drum brake setups go, but several people posted about having had a really bad time dealing with them, still would like to see a photo, I would check mine out but I'm not due for brakes for a while.

I'm guessing that those that have had trouble didn't back off the shoes before trying to remove the rotor/drum and then everything to do with the e-brake shoes setup comes apart and or bends and then they don't know how it goes back together without trial and error and or you need new parts.
 
You're saying you did your rear brakes, but didn't touch the rear brake???



I'm assuming you meant you didn't touch the e-brakes?



If all you did was replace the pads and possibly the calipers but didn't remove the rotor/disk you would never get to or see the e-brake parts/assembly, which are located within the rear rotor/disk, so you didn't do anything wrong, unless your e-brakes shoes are worn out and need replacing, which I wouldn't guess is the case, the e-brake shoes shouldn't never really wear out since the only time you would use it is when you park, or in the case of total brake failure you use it to stop the vehicle.



Sorry should've worded it better but you are correct, I did the brakes, rotors and caliper swap! Front and back


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You're saying you did your rear brakes, but didn't touch the rear brake???



I'm assuming you meant you didn't touch the e-brakes?



If all you did was replace the pads and possibly the calipers but didn't remove the rotor/disk you would never get to or see the e-brake parts/assembly, which are located within the rear rotor/disk, so you didn't do anything wrong, unless your e-brakes shoes are worn out and need replacing, which I wouldn't guess is the case, the e-brake shoes shouldn't never really wear out since the only time you would use it is when you park, or in the case of total brake failure you use it to stop the vehicle.



However my ABS light along with the usual Skid marks and VSC lights are on.. checked to if the sensors are on all the way and they are.. any other ideas?


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That what I have gathered from reading about the e-brake, they sound rather basic as far as drum brake setups go, but several people posted about having had a really bad time dealing with them, still would like to see a photo, I would check mine out but I'm not due for brakes for a while.



I'm guessing that those that have had trouble didn't back off the shoes before trying to remove the rotor/drum and then everything to do with the e-brake shoes setup comes apart and or bends and then they don't know how it goes back together without trial and error and or you need new parts.



The problem with the e brake assembly is that there is very little access those little cup thingys that hold the e brake springs.

They're an absolute NIGHTMARE to reassemble. Took me over an hour to get them back in holding the springs correctly. I use a pair of right angle pick tools to work them into place with someone else holding the metal pin in place. Downright impossible to do by yourself. Did there was a proprietary tool designed specifically for this purpose, I'd buy it no matter how expensive it was. Would be better than the hour plus I spent fighting with the damn things.

Also you have to flex the shit out of the shoe assemblies to get them around the hub pulling them off or putting them on.
 
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DAY2 after doing the upgrade:

Initially, the brake traveled a little further down, and felt A TAD on the light side. Anyway, after a couple of days, the feel has improved (tighter/harder).

Another positive: The "thud" of letting off the brake pedal at a stop light is virtually gone. Never expected this. Very nice. I know the lack of lubrication to the drivershaft is normally the culprit, but I never thought that calipers would contribute to the famous "thump".

E7B90C47-5BBF-4E34-996F-A7954E46D965_zpsvmzy5zwn.jpg~original
 
However my ABS light along with the usual Skid marks and VSC lights are on.. checked to if the sensors are on all the way and they are.. any other ideas?


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I would pull the codes related to the lights being on, which hopefully will point you to the culprit causing the lights to trigger, if you don't have access to a code reader, you can stop at most any of the auto parts stores and they will read the codes for you.

It's possible that one of the wires got pulled on and have separated/broken somewhere, or one of the sensors has gone bad.
 
I would pull the codes related to the lights being on, which hopefully will point you to the culprit causing the lights to trigger, if you don't have access to a code reader, you can stop at most any of the auto parts stores and they will read the codes for you.



It's possible that one of the wires got pulled on and have separated/broken somewhere, or one of the sensors has gone bad.



Alright I'll try that! I appreciate it man


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03' V8 Limited 2WD

I have an 03' Limited V8. I am afraid i have a sticky caliper. I am about halfway through my toytec/total chaos install, and decided i should do the brakes while im here.

I was originally going to go with NAPA lifetime pads, rotors, and two new front calipers.

I have the toytec extended lines front & rear that will be getting installed...

Now im questioning a 5th gen retrofit of sorts to remedy the sticky caliper issue, as i plan to keep this t4r for years to come.

I KNOW FOR A FACT I CURRENTLY HAVE THE SMALLER ROTORS APPROX.
12.4 OR 12.6" IF I RECALL & NOT THE 13.3" ROTORS


That being said... would a 5th gen rotor be to large (13.3") or would it bolt up perfectly?

I also considered 4th gen NAPA lifetime rotors, 5th gen calipers & pads.


Any input guys? Can someone point me in the right direction? Truck is on jack stands currently, and needs to be rolling in 3-4 days. Thanks in advance for any help!
 
ok Im about to give this 5th gen brake upgrade a try. Question, Can I also use the 5th gen rear rotors with the 5th gen rear calipers?
 
I have an 03' Limited V8. I am afraid i have a sticky caliper. I am about halfway through my toytec/total chaos install, and decided i should do the brakes while im here.

I was originally going to go with NAPA lifetime pads, rotors, and two new front calipers.

I have the toytec extended lines front & rear that will be getting installed...

Now im questioning a 5th gen retrofit of sorts to remedy the sticky caliper issue, as i plan to keep this t4r for years to come.

I KNOW FOR A FACT I CURRENTLY HAVE THE SMALLER ROTORS APPROX.
12.4 OR 12.6" IF I RECALL & NOT THE 13.3" ROTORS


That being said... would a 5th gen rotor be to large (13.3") or would it bolt up perfectly?

I also considered 4th gen NAPA lifetime rotors, 5th gen calipers & pads.


Any input guys? Can someone point me in the right direction? Truck is on jack stands currently, and needs to be rolling in 3-4 days. Thanks in advance for any help!

As long as you have 17 inch rims it will work. You may/will have to slightly modify the brake dust shield to work with the bigger rotors. Nothing horrible / hard to do
 

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