5th Gen Lift Suggestions
- Thread starter sbcsar26
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I want to add 2 to 3 inches of lift to keep from bottoming out so much. I did a driving school last weekend and the clearance was less then desirable. There was another 4Runner in the course and he didn't have the issues I did because he had put in a lift kit.
I am not real sure what I want to do as this is my first 4x4. So all this is a little new. I had someone reccommend an OME.
I know some of this is driving experience, and maybe I need to start with getting more of that before I put in a lift. I am not interested in jumping rocks. Just being able to get into the backcountry when I want to go exploring.
Does that make sense???:thanks:
I am not real sure what I want to do as this is my first 4x4. So all this is a little new. I had someone reccommend an OME.
I know some of this is driving experience, and maybe I need to start with getting more of that before I put in a lift. I am not interested in jumping rocks. Just being able to get into the backcountry when I want to go exploring.
Does that make sense???:thanks:
Tengu
New member
Several choices here without getting crazy.
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Instructor
New member
I am running front and rear OME coils on stock strut/shocks and I am very happy with the lift height and ride. I acheived 3" lift in the front and about 2" in the rear, giving me a near level stance with increased spring rate in the rear if I need to add additional cargo. I am running the 2884 front coils and 2895E in the rear. If maximum wheels travel is a concern, new OME shocks could be added. Coils were less than $375 shipped.
Which version 4Runner do you have? on a TE or SR5 you can go fairly easy to a different coil/shock. on a Limited it's a bit more work due to the XREAS. But for most no-rock-jumping back country you do not need a lift.
If you are just planning on taking service roads into national parks and the odd back trail, you will do better with just slightly better skid plates and regardless of lift or plates, a good spotter.
If you are going to do more serious offroading you will end up with both suspension and skid work, so starting with the skids is an easier and cheaper start.
Spacers give you some lift, but they also preload the suspension and that is not necessarily what you want in either your road or offroad handling.
If you are going to do trails, also get sliders .... soon. My sliders saved my ass on my first trip out. plus they help with Walmart parking door dings.
Okki
Hellamatic
New member
I would suggest the "search" feature
thebwlife
Senior Member
These should all work on your 4Runner
The NEW Complete Lift Listing and Comparison, they're all here! UPDATED! - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
The NEW Complete Lift Listing and Comparison, they're all here! UPDATED! - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
2013Trail
New member
So, if spacers are used is a diff drop needed?
2013Trail
New member
Did you install the coils yourself? If so, how long did it take? Did you need a diff drop?
2013Trail
New member
Also, do you have to have the alignment adjusted after installing the coils? Any issues like front wheel vibration, pulling, wandering, etc. since it's been lifted?
When you lift, you will want to get UCA's (upper control arms) to correct the camber; especially when you are pushing 3 inches. and of course a proper alignment. There have been numerous threads on this subject that a search will pull up for you.
You may also want to call some vendors (Brandon @ Metal Tech 4x4, Bobby at High Tech Auto, Etc) as they can provide you a lot of insight as well and help with sourcing parts/installation.
Okki
Instructor
New member
I did not install the lift myself. A local shop did the install and alignment for $375. I did have steering wheel vibs when I installed P285/70/17 tires, but since switching back to the stock size, no issues at all. I did not install upper control arms and my camber is slightly out of spec. I'll take it back for a realignment after the springs fully settle. For me, the very slight out of spec camber did not warrant changing the control arms. Since it drives as straight and smooth as stock, no need to change anything else. I did not do a diff drop and do not have any vibes in 4WD up to 55mph, that's good enough for me.
harper7
Senior Member
Caster is probably out of spec,not camber which is usually the case with lifting and stock UCA's. Camber is the lean inward and outward of the wheel and if camber is not in spec will wear your tires on the inside or outside. Wheel Alignment Explained - What is camber, caster and toe? - Yospeed
Changing tire size has nothing to do with wheel alignment so you just either got a bad balance job or bad set of tires the first time. I 'd guess a bad balance.
[MENTION=95578]2013Trail[/MENTION] ......No need for a diff drop til you get over 3" front lift but Toytec will still try to sell you one.
Newf4R
New member
Okki would you suggest UCAs with a 2.5/1.5 daystar spacer lift? I just ordered this kit as I didn't want to spend the coin on shocks and coils until I knew I liked the look. I will obviously be doing a front wheel alignment, but if I need UCAs I want to have them and install everything the same time. Thanks
I'm the lazy suspension guy... I just ordered an Icon Stage 6 with all the parts that [MENTION=80984]LT[/MENTION] and [MENTION=68685]Ducmonsta[/MENTION] told me I would need for my application. [MENTION=8206]harper7[/MENTION] did everything himself, so he would be able to give a better perspective. I'm not a fan of spacers as they lift the truck by preloading the suspension. I'd rather have my suspension run as designed.
I like doing as much as I can myself, but I don't have the time/tools/space to do the suspension install myself. When it becomes a check-book function, you might as well do it right the first time; hence the Stage 6 that was sourced from MetalTech 4x4 and is being installed by High Tech Truck and Auto.
Okki
(This post should win a prize for the most user references and shop plugs! LOL)
