5th gen oil change

[ronman737]

I’m sure it has been brought up before, but I’d like to meet the guy who decided to go to cartridge filters in a dark alley. Needless to say I’m new to it and I guess the rookie mechanics where I bought it used just tightened the shit out of it. Just venting I’m sure you all understand.

 

[57buick]

baxter performance oil filter adapter for spin on filters.

Cartridge to Spin-On Adapter

 

[ronman737]

baxter performance oil filter adapter for spin on filters.

Cartridge to Spin-On Adapter

Thats beautiful.

 

[TrijiCog]

What ever happened to Jowett ?

I know the first batch was messed up,but he made good with the 2nd batch.

Does he not produce the housings anymore ?

 

[57buick]

The factory plastic oil filter cartridge housing is know to crack thats why they are for sale everywhere to replace them.

Installing the billet aluminum adpater from Baxter Performance also eliminates that issue of cracked filter housings. So another plus.

 

[57buick]

baxter performance oil filter adapter for spin on filters.

Cartridge to Spin-On Adapter

Keep in mind this particular oil filter I used will not clear the factory stamped skid plate without hammering on the skid plate. The TRD skid plate or any aftermarket skid plate clears fine.

You could also just use a shorter filter than I did. Or read my build thread page 8 where I talk about other filter option

 

[Antman]

Keep in mind this particular oil filter I used will not clear the factory stamped skid plate without hammering on the skid plate. The TRD skid plate or any aftermarket skid plate clears fine.

You could also just use a shorter filter than I did. Or read my build thread page 8 where I talk about other filter option

Sooo if you bash a rock and dent the skidplate you have the potential to smash that adaptor which hangs way to low now.

Smart indeed. :wink2:

 

[57buick]

Sooo if you bash a rock and dent the skidplate you have the potential to smash that adaptor which hangs way to low now.

Smart indeed. :wink2:

Only with the stock stamped steel skid plate which is crap anyway and most people replace it with aftermarket. You can see with the aftermarket skids I have at least 3 inches of clearance.

And like i said you can use a shorter filter if you are using the stamped skid. The filter Im using is twice as long as the factory cartridge filters for more filtration area

 

[Whippersnapper02]

I did my first change on the Runner today which is my first cartridge type filter ever. Really it isn't a big deal. I have a billet housing from Jowett Performance but couldn't install it because it doesn't fit the socket I purchased (blemished housing). I only want to swap to keep from having the possibility of messing up plastic threads or stripping the housing itself.

 

[llDemonll]

Could also just buy the metal housing from Toyota instead of the factory plastic one. They're about $30

 

[BobsTrail]

Could also just buy the metal housing from Toyota instead of the factory plastic one. They're about $30

:iagree:

I changed to the metal one a few oil changes ago.
Copied this from a post I found on here:

Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly

For Toyota Trucks only: The ONLY change that you will need to do, is to take out that original perforated tube from the plastic Oil Filter Cap Assy, and switch it out with that "shorter" perforated tube [which you will discard] that's inside the new aluminum assembly.........reason being that the truck filter is longer than the Toyota sedans [no need to switch out the spring that's located under the perforated tube, as they both do the same task]. The only tool needed for the switch out, is a medium sized flat bladed screw driver, as you will be partially bending [simply by rotating the screw driver a bit] two small sheet metal petals/wings that keep the tube in place, inside the assembly. If you bend them just enough to have them pointing straight up...and now...push down on the tube, and rotate past the post [you'll see what I mean, when looking down, and inside the assembly].....and out it will come. Now, grab the longer tube, and reverse the process to install it. It's not at all difficult, or complicated...and once you see it....you'll recognize the remove/install process.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Sooo if you bash a rock and dent the skidplate you have the potential to smash that adaptor which hangs way to low now.

Smart indeed. :wink2:

Hi Antman,

If you're running OEM skid plates then yes, you can smash the skid plate up into the filter can or the Baxter adapter. The Baxter adapter is very stout, solid machined aluminum. The motor mount is more likely to get busted than the adapter.

If you still have the factory skid plates then you probably shouldn't be smashing over rocks. I hit a few rocks just lightly when I still had mine and the engine skid plate was smashed. Besides, the OEM skid plate must be removed to change the oil.

If you smash your RCI skids or any other 3/16" plate hard enough to bend it up into an oil filter on the Baxter adapter then you probably have other damage too.

In doing the "FREE" oil change (when the 4Runner was new) at the Toyota dealerships, they often overtighten the 8 mm 1.25 pitch threads, stripping the welded nuts and/or the bolts. In my case, I could not remove the nut. I stripped the bolt heads round trying. I had to cut the skid plate off so I could work on the suspension lift.

To fix the stripped nut, I had to cut off the welded 8 mm nuts from the frame and adapt a new nut with a larger 10 mm, 1.25 pitch.

I cut an 1/8" flat plate to fit over the OEM frame bracket where the old 8 mm nuts were. The plate was made wider than the OEM bracket so it could be welded from below on two sides with an overhead weld. Then I drilled an oversized hole in the OEM Bracket and 1/8" plate at the right place to fit the bolts for my RCI skid plate. The same place as the OEM skids. I welded new nuts onto the 1/8" plate and then welded the plate on top of the OEM frame bracket that supports the OEM nuts. This gave me a stout place to anchor the skid plate with a 10 mm bolt. The 10 mm bolt is less likely to get stripped and offers a stronger connection at the front of the skid plate. Photos of the parts ready for welding, my friend Danny doing the welding, the plate welded to the frame bracket and the plate all over-painter and ready to reinstall the skid plate.

 

[DesertCanyons]

Baxter Performance Remote Oil Filter

Baxter also makes a remote oil filter adapter that allows you to position the filter up higher in the engine bay. I had that system but I knew the weak link was the AN-10 oil lines from the Adapter under the canister location to the filter adapter. If the oil lines leak the only way to repair it is with a new oil line and by replacing the oil. You can make the lines with the right parts or buy one pre-assembled. To make the lines you have to have a vise and hose grips. You can catch the oil and put it back in the engine through a paint filter but that requires a clean oil catch pan, a filter and a funnel. None of this can be done in the field, INMO. If you spring a leak in an oil hose, you're stuck.

I had that system but took it out when I got a leak in one of the lines because it was rubbing against the skid plate. It was a stainless steel braided line too. Luckily it leaked when it was parked in my garage and I saw the oil before driving anywhere. I will probably replace it with the Baxter oil filter adapter made for placing the filter below the engine.

 

[The_Green_Wang]

[MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION]

Was going to mention there is the relocation kit, which you seem to have had first hand experience with. I thought it was genius but guess theres some flaws to that along with the hefty price tag...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

[DesertCanyons]

Baxter Performance Remote Oil Filter

[MENTION=115572]DesertCanyons[/MENTION]

Was going to mention there is the relocation kit, which you seem to have had first hand experience with. I thought it was genius but guess theres some flaws to that along with the hefty price tag...

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

It's a lot of work to install too. I tried making the hoses but gave up after one of the connections leaked. The oil lines are difficult to make even with the right tools. That's when I bought the pre-made lines.

Here's some info and photos of the mounting location I used for the remote filter. It was a lot of work to make the mounting location work. A good machinist might make this easier, but I had to use the skills and tools I had.
https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/251249-changing-metal-oil-canister-4.html#post3273485

 

[young]

What ever happened to Jowett ?

I know the first batch was messed up,but he made good with the 2nd batch.

Does he not produce the housings anymore ?

just checked Jowett's site. It still sells the caps.