5th Gen Sub enclosure wanted

marlinsfan

New member
The final touch in my stereo upgrade is to get my sub box out of the rear. I'd like to put it into the stock enclosure on the passenger side of the trunk.

One option is to buy someone's OEM enclosure, but that only fits an 8" sub which is probably too small for my system. I currently have a 10" in a big box taking up a lot of space

Another option is to get a custom fit box built in that area.

My T4R has a 3rd row, so the stealthbox style enclosure would not fit. My current box is so big, that it hardly fits when the 3rd row us up.

Is anyone selling their OEM enclosure?

And does anyone know where I can have one made?

I've spent a bunch of time searching this forum and the internet overall and can't find anything.....:dammit:
 
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The final touch in my stereo upgrade is to get my sub box out of the rear. I'd like to put it into the stock enclosure on the passenger side of the trunk.

One option is to buy someone's OEM enclosure, but that only fits an 8" sub which is probably too small for my system. I currently have a 10" in a big box taking up a lot of space

Another option is to get a custom fit box built in that area.

My T4R has a 3rd row, so the stealthbox style enclosure would not fit. My current box is so big, that it hardly fits when the 3rd row us up.

Is anyone selling their OEM enclosure?

And does anyone know where I can have one made?

I've spent a bunch of time searching this forum and the internet overall and can't find anything.....:dammit:

Any good car stereo installer/fabricator should be able to fab a fiberglass or mdf custom box for under $300.
 
Here are some pics of my custom sub box........ I might be interested in selling it.............



 
Here is the sub/tool box that i built for mine. Fits behind the third row while still holding all my normal tools and garb. I have turnbuckles securing it to the rings in the floor. I have a 12" in it because it was free. The air space would be better suited for a 10" though.

I have the plans for it in sketchup if you'd be interested in building it yourself.

s7dzqOil.jpg
 
The JL microsub 6.5 fits almost perfectly in the far right corner. Sounds great too if your not looking for rattle your neighbor bass. I found one at the crutchfield outlet for 168 to the door...can't beat the deal.
 
Here are some pics of my custom sub box........ I might be interested in selling it.............

Hey RG79, that is exactly what I was looking for. Timing sux, though. Just saturday I bought a new JL Microsub, 8 inch. I took my truck to the stereo shop and the guy let me plug it in to hear the difference between that and my current 12 inch pioneer. I honestly couldn't tell the difference.

Are you selling your box and sub? Whats sub is in there now? How much are you looking to get for it? I can't bring the microsub back, but I might be able to sell it.

@uood - yeah I saw the 6.5 too, but I went with the 8".

Todd; i don't have skills or time to build my own, and I was looking to minimize the space requirements.

Thanks to all.
 
I have also been looking for a sub, it's hard to believe nobody is making one yet. was thinking of doing the under passenger seat thin sub. But would prefer it in factory location.
 
I measured it last night as I had the same thought. I think the 8" microsub I bought will fit under the passenger seat. It might be a tight squeeze towards the front of the seat. It measures 18.5 x 11 x 5 1/8.

CP108LG-W3v3 - Car Audio - Subwoofer Systems - MicroSub? - JL Audio

I have to figure out where do I put the amp, though. I have the big amp under the driver' seat, and the smaller mono-block amp for the sub under the passenger seat.

Hi,
I have the factory entune head unit how did you handle the low level out ? What speaker wires did you tap , front door ?
Did you find a company that has no slice connectors ?
Thanks
R
 
Hi,
I have the factory entune head unit how did you handle the low level out ? What speaker wires did you tap , front door ?
Did you find a company that has no slice connectors ?
Thanks
R

You mean the high-level out? I bought adaptors that convert the high level into low-level RCAs that I could plug into my amp.

I tapped the wires behind the HU, not at the doors. Can't remember the color of hte wires, but I did research here and found the color-coding diagram.

Not sure what you mean about the last question.
 
You mean the high-level out? I bought adaptors that convert the high level into low-level RCAs that I could plug into my amp.

I tapped the wires behind the HU, not at the doors. Can't remember the color of hte wires, but I did research here and found the color-coding diagram.

Not sure what you mean about the last question.

Thanks,
was wondering how you got a low level out from only high level out speaker wires. Do you remember which speaker location you tap (front door,rear door ect...) I can look up the color wire diagram but which speaker location ? The no splice connectors use factory plugs at head unit to tap a speaker or power wires without cutting any wires.
 
Thanks,
was wondering how you got a low level out from only high level out speaker wires. Do you remember which speaker location you tap (front door,rear door ect...) I can look up the color wire diagram but which speaker location ? The no splice connectors use factory plugs at head unit to tap a speaker or power wires without cutting any wires.

Oh, got it. I tapped wires behind the HU. If memory serves:
Right Rear: red +, white -
Rear left: black +, yellow -

Can't remember the front. But I remember that I initially tapped the wrong wires... There are 2 sets of wires that are the same color. the speaker ones are the thicker wires, the others (which I originally tapped) are much thinner.

I first bought Rockford Fosgate high-level to RCA connectors but they didn't work, even though my primary amp is a Rockford Fosgate.. I then bought the Scosche connectors and that did the trick. I guess the converters you need depend on your amp.

These did not work for my P4004 Rockford amp:
http://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosg...51&sr=1-4&keywords=rockford+fosgate+converter

The scocsche I bought at an audio shop and don't have a link.


I plugged the connectors into the RCA inputs at my amp, then ran RCAs to the sub-amp via the passthrough RCAs on the Rockford.

I then ran speaker wires from the amp back up to behind the HU and connected the speaker wires there. I did not tap into door wires.

I did buy the no-splice connectors for the speaker connections where you connect the wires to the speakers at the door/tail locations, though. But you're not asking about that.

I have good control with the fader with front & rear speakers, plus was able to isolate the low signal for the sub.

No, I did not find no-splice connectors. I cut the wires and spliced them.
 
Last edited:
So I guess the thing is I tapped all the speakers. There's 2 pairs for the front door & dash (1 pair for left, 1 pair for right) and 2 pairs for the rear doors and tail (again, 1 pair for left, 1 pair for right). I tapped all of them as I added 2 amps, a sub, and replaced all the speakers.
 
Oh, got it. I tapped wires behind the HU. If memory serves:
Right Rear: red +, white -
Rear left: black +, yellow -

Can't remember the front. But I remember that I initially tapped the wrong wires... There are 2 sets of wires that are the same color. the speaker ones are the thicker wires, the others (which I originally tapped) are much thinner.

I first bought Rockford Fosgate high-level to RCA connectors but they didn't work, even though my primary amp is a Rockford Fosgate.. I then bought the Scosche connectors and that did the trick. I guess the converters you need depend on your amp.

These did not work for my P4004 Rockford amp:
Amazon.com : Rockford Fosgate RFI2SW Adapts High Level Speaker to Low Level RCA Adapter : Vehicle Amplifier Stereo Patch Cables : Electronics

The scocsche I bought at an audio shop and don't have a link.


I plugged the connectors into the RCA inputs at my amp, then ran RCAs to the sub-amp via the passthrough RCAs on the Rockford.

I then ran speaker wires from the amp back up to behind the HU and connected the speaker wires there. I did not tap into door wires.

I did buy the no-splice connectors for the speaker connections where you connect the wires to the speakers at the door/tail locations, though. But you're not asking about that.

I have good control with the fader with front & rear speakers, plus was able to isolate the low signal for the sub.

No, I did not find no-splice connectors. I cut the wires and spliced them.

Thanks ! That's what I was after. I'm getting ready to order the prestige navigation and video controller override kits and wanted to hook up my sub wiring at same time . I'm so surprised JL or someone does not make a sub kit for 5th Gen 2010 and up look the same and the stereo is so weak. Also the sub option is now "limited" models only from 2012-up. But I'm sure right after I do a custom one it be available off the shelf better and cheaper :)
 
"...I'm so surprised JL or someone does not make a sub kit for 5th Gen 2010 and up look the same and the stereo is so weak. Also the sub option is now "limited" models only from 2012-up. But I'm sure right after I do a custom one it be available off the shelf better and cheaper :)"

Hey Team:

I realize that this is an older thread but I just ran across it again and know there are so many new members that will be looking for some substantial info on 'Subwoofer install ideas'; Here's one of the better ones by our own "Systems Problem Solver": [MENTION=65614]Antman[/MENTION] ... thanks so much for taking the time to post this invaluable gem Jeff!

#347-http://www.toyota-4runner.org/989173-post347.html

#348-http://www.toyota-4runner.org/989174-post348.html 'Best to you all',

rig
 
JL Audio CP208LG-W3v3

Fits perfectly behind the rear seats and takes up almost no trunk space. I love it. It's not going to give you the lowest lowes like 15s but dang it sounds great and is loud enough to rattle the neighbors houses if I want to be a prick. (I don't)

Powering it with a JLHD 900/5 but they also sell a powered one. I'm running focal components and this has more than enough punch to fill in the sound.
 

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