87 4runner SR5 Build Thread

thatoneguy

New member
I've had my '87 SR5 4runner since Dec '11. She's been driven 13,000 miles by me, and hasn't given me a single problem. I've explored a few counties and taken many 5 mile, American Fork Canyon, and camping trips.

Pretty soon I'm going for it - the Solid Axle Swap. I plan to use TG's IFS Eliminator Kit ( Toyota Pickup/4Runner 1986-1995 IFS Eliminator Solid Axle Swap Kit SAS ) , 4.88 axle ratios, and 35x12.50x15 treads. A friends' shop is going to be the venue for the job. Also finishing my half doors soon.

The plan is to DD it for a while, and buy a 1/2 ton to DD/tow it with next year, while still keeping it street-legal for parading it around.

If anyone's got any build tips / things I might run into / any info to share, be my guest to speak it.
 

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I've had my '87 SR5 4runner since Dec '11. She's been driven 13,000 miles by me, and hasn't given me a single problem. I've explored a few counties and taken many 5 mile, American Fork Canyon, and camping trips.

Pretty soon I'm going for it - the Solid Axle Swap.

Booooooo! IFS can take anything American Fork or Five Mile has to offer and 95% percent of Moab too, and will handle much better through the go-fast sections. It's your truck, but I think there's better places for you to put your mod money.
 
Here's the breakdown.

'87-Replaced so far:
Inner/outer tie rods, steering stabilizer, pitman arm, idler arm, upper/lower ball joints, UCA/LCA bushings (in progress), sway bar bushings, end links (not installed yet, see: LCA progress), rebuilt calipers w/ new pads, awaiting new rotors, found no grease inside manual Warn hubs (I'm assuming that's bad), have an oil/water leak from front of engine (head or timing cover), and currently have no shocks. But I did get a set of used set of 33" BFG A/T's. Woo.

'04: tires and original XREAS shocks are shot. Going to get a Toytec 3" and new A/T's this fall. Maybe I can abuse her a little bit.

Synopsis: need more $$$

Thread hijack over.
 
Booooooo! IFS can take anything American Fork or Five Mile has to offer and 95% percent of Moab too, and will handle much better through the go-fast sections. It's your truck, but I think there's better places for you to put your mod money.

Surprised yet not surprised you said that. Half this forum seems to love Toyota IFS. Where would the better places for my mod money be? Remember when I was at your house and you said "IFS is fine as long as you're running 33s. It's those guys that run 35s that break it". Well, I'm gonna run 35s :)
 
Surprised yet not surprised you said that. Half this forum seems to love Toyota IFS. Where would the better places for my mod money be? Remember when I was at your house and you said "IFS is fine as long as you're running 33s. It's those guys that run 35s that break it". Well, I'm gonna run 35s :)

Not half, I think it's just me. I'm very vocal about it though :D.

If you're going 35s, then you're probably right to do the SAS. Thing is, once you go 35s you're just starting to get into where stock birfs like to break too, especially if you ever want to lock the front. So then you've got to start thinking about Longfields or Dirty Thirties, and your budget can get rapidly out of control.

Anyway, I firmly believe that nobody should SAS until they've broken their IFS at least once and are pretty sure they're going to break it again. For the money you're going to put into that SAS (probably $2000 when all is said and done, not counting gears and stuff), you can elock the front and put a lunchbox in the rear and stick a Blazeland long travel in the front, and that combo will destroy an open/open SAS conversion any day of the week. You were telling me you haven't driven Mineral Basin or Constrictor yet, right? My '86 had no trouble with either of those... properly equipped, an IFS truck can go almost anywhere a solid axle truck can.

At the end of the day it's your truck, and I think you should do whatever is going to give you the most enjoyment out of it. I hope I'm just helping you be sure that you're making the right call.
 
Not half, I think it's just me. I'm very vocal about it though :D.

If you're going 35s, then you're probably right to do the SAS. Thing is, once you go 35s you're just starting to get into where stock birfs like to break too, especially if you ever want to lock the front. So then you've got to start thinking about Longfields or Dirty Thirties, and your budget can get rapidly out of control.

Anyway, I firmly believe that nobody should SAS until they've broken their IFS at least once and are pretty sure they're going to break it again. For the money you're going to put into that SAS (probably $2000 when all is said and done, not counting gears and stuff), you can elock the front and put a lunchbox in the rear and stick a Blazeland long travel in the front, and that combo will destroy an open/open SAS conversion any day of the week. You were telling me you haven't driven Mineral Basin or Constrictor yet, right? My '86 had no trouble with either of those... properly equipped, an IFS truck can go almost anywhere a solid axle truck can.

At the end of the day it's your truck, and I think you should do whatever is going to give you the most enjoyment out of it. I hope I'm just helping you be sure that you're making the right call.


I see. Thanks for giving me a second angle about it. I can't pump money into IFS, it seems like a crime against god. But yeah I've had lifts in the works forever and decided I wanted to go all out.

It won't be open front and rear, I assure you that!
 
The Sas has been started as of last night. That independent s*** is gone! I'll get more pictures up when I take them
 

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Are you going to relocate the IFS box? You might have trouble with your tie rod and drag link interfering if you don't.

:iagree: I would move the box forward now. You can also move the axle ahead a bit more and avoid some rubbing. TG has a simple kit for this.
 
I guess I never properly finished my build thread. That's a shame, because I like telling people about my truck.

The Trail Gear IFS Eliminator kit was installed, front axle rebuilt (Toyota axles suck), went Chevy 63's in the back. After all that, went cheap in the front with a square front driveline. I'm looking to fix that this year; circular is better.

Recently got new offset rims on MTR's. She was tippy on 35s on the no offset stock wheels, so that ought to help out.

I ordered a Killer Toy Tops Solar90 Bikini top, which arrived in one week flat. I'll be putting it on in the next week or two. It ought to look good! A picture with it on will be posted.


Edit: If a moderator could rename this thread to "87 4runner SR5 Build Thread" that'd make more sense.
 

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Bikini tops galore. She's now cruising the streets all open-air like. Another two months and the half doors can go on again.

Also, check out that tasteful Garmin. I learned they have the Best Feature Ever - you can set them to leave a blue line anywhere you've driven before.

I need to get out wheeling.
 

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Whats with the rock anchor under the drivers spring perch?

How much total lift did you get from the SAS?

Open front diffs? Stock front birfs?
 
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Man, that's nice.
I never get tired of seeing well built 1st gens...ok, I will admit it, I'm hooked on these things
 
How do you like the solar90 top? can you post a few more pics of it? the Killer Toy Tops website is lacking.

Thanks

I like the looks, but unfortunately the days of rolling around with 4 people
in the truck seem to be over. Hardly anyone will get to enjoy the best seats
in the house. It's a good top, but it's something most people could construct
themselves.

Repacked the front bearings, and greased my zerks! Should be wheeling
tomorrow, even with the windows stuck down.
 

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Ran 5 mile last night. Nosed-up Wayne's World at 2am. Pulled over by Saratoga PD at 3am. Bit cold with the windows stuck down.
 

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