911 Dead on the road at a gas station pulling a camper

Just a fyi, my battery died on me out of the blue, scangauge read normal volts the entire time and no battery light. A bad cell in the battery can cause a no warning no crank/no start.

Check/wiggle all cables/grounds, bad gas should have caused sputtering, running rough/differently or something abnormal.

Just a thought, if the torque app couldn't pull the cel code, maybe it was a body/electrical code. Some scanners can't pick those up.

I had the same issue while camping, no warning, nothing out of the normal; parked it to feed the little one and left accessories on for 2 minutes without it running, wouldn't start at all. Luckily got a jump from a old fart leaving the fishing hole, drove it home 300 miles with no issue. Made sure to leave it on when I had to fuel. Had a bad cell and low water, go figure in az heat!
 
Off the road anf at a hotel 6 hours later. $300 tow bill and $90 hotel room.Thanks for all the advice everyone. They dropped it at shop and supposed to look at in the morning. I checked the volts on battery with the voltimeter and it was showing over 12v. I really its a battery problem even though its 2 year old yellow top optima. It wouldnt take a jump pack or jump start. The engine was cranking fine and just dod nothing on the last crank, no slowing or clicking, it just stopped. One thing i didnt do was beat on the fuel tank but i didnt see a reason for it if it wouldnt turn over. Any ideas would greatly appreaciated.
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Off the road anf at a hotel 6 hours later. $300 tow bill and $90 hotel room.Thanks for all the advice everyone. They dropped it at shop and supposed to look at in the morning. I checked the volts on battery with the voltimeter and it was showing over 12v. I really its a battery problem even though its 2 year old yellow top optima. It wouldnt take a jump pack or jump start. The engine was cranking fine and just dod nothing on the last crank, no slowing or clicking, it just stopped. One thing i didnt do was beat on the fuel tank but i didnt see a reason for it if it wouldnt turn over. Any ideas would greatly appreaciated.
92da53a022dd5ddd5d44141959cbb242.jpg


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My yellow top was dead after 16 months. I just got it replaced under warranty last month. Similar symptoms. Would crank but not start, eventually died after too many attempts.

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I will make sure they load test the battery in the morning and check the altenator. I will hopefully post the outcome in the morning. I REALLY hope you guys are right and its the battery so I can eat crow. Like i said i watched the alt volts and they stayed at 13.4 to 13.5 ever since i installed the new alt last month. I put in a Denso Reman alt instead of Chinese new one. I have heard that some people have had issues with the newer Optimas so who knows and i thought Optimas were still supposed to start if they drop a cell. The only thing running in the camper while towing is the fridge and it runs off propane while in tow. The alarm (aftermarket) set fine when it was dropped at the shop and doors locked so battery has some juice.

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Could it still be the battery even if you tried jump starting it? Keep us updated, I'm curious on what ends up being the culprit.
 
So i walked down to the shop this morning. They havent opened yet but the truck started right up idled fine for 20 sec then immediately died. Tried again and now it starts then immediately dies. No codes.

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So i walked down to the shop this morning. They havent opened yet but the truck started right up idled fine for 20 sec then immediately died. Tried again and now it starts then immediately dies. No codes.

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Now it's time for some old school mechanic diagnosing. They need to be looking for non-electronic problems. Maybe bad gas?
 
Bad fiel was the first thing i thought, its happened to me before. The my only issue with that theory is i was at a busy gas station for 4 hrs and no one else had issues. I was blockimg pump 7 for the 4 hoirs so no one else used that pump. Could that just that pump pull bad fuel?

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Ok so please excuse my typing i suck with this phone. I tried to start it multiple times withe same result, but now its cranking slow and ignition and tail lights stay on with the key out of the ignition. Bad battery maybe after all did it go down from the alarm set all might and multiple start attempts?

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Do you have an alarm or remote start on the 4runner? Do you happen to have the second key with you? It almost sounds like the factory immobilizer isn’t recognizing the key. It’ll act exactly like you’re describing. I’d also look over the wiring harnesses for signs of rodents chewing on them.
 
Still seems like a bad battery to me. It would balance power across remaining cells overnight, maybe give you a few seconds of power. Though, if you had enough to turn over once and run for 20 seconds, I'm wondering if the battery could have crapped out and damaged the internal voltage regulator of your alternator...just seems odd that it would die like that, but the readings you got earlier are also indicitave of a weak alternator anyway. Every functioning vehicle I've ever worked on, regardless of make or model, the alternator puts out around 13.8-14.4v. Below that is a sign of bad things.
 
My vote is battery, maf sensor or some other electrical issue. When maf sensors go bad they do act just like your symptoms (as a previous poster suggested) I just figured that a maf code would easily be pulled on your scanner. And a maf would not cause no cranking, it would just start then immediately die.
 
Aftermarket alarm and remote start, i have a second key but didnt get a chance to try before it went into the bay. I did try to remote start it though with no luck.
Do you have an alarm or remote start on the 4runner? Do you happen to have the second key with you? It almost sounds like the factory immobilizer isn’t recognizing the key. It’ll act exactly like you’re describing. I’d also look over the wiring harnesses for signs of rodents chewing on them.

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Just installed the slyfox air pump bypass before the trip, no issues but it does tie into the maf.
My vote is battery, maf sensor or some other electrical issue. When maf sensors go bad they do act just like your symptoms (as a previous poster suggested) I just figured that a maf code would easily be pulled on your scanner. And a maf would not cause no cranking, it would just start then immediately die.

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They have had multiple diffrent battery packs and chargers on it and now it will not crank. It doesnt do anything when they try to start it. Possibly an alarm issue, they did try my spare key with no luck.

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Have they removed the battery to test it yet? Trying to jump or charge a bad battery will get you nowhere
 
So i walked down to the shop this morning. They havent opened yet but the truck started right up idled fine for 20 sec then immediately died. Tried again and now it starts then immediately dies. No codes.

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It sat all night so the battery probably regained enough charge to start. You try gassing it when it starts?

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