95 3.0L Intermitten misfire

[Lovin_chevy84]

I got my moms truck after she passed, original owner, only been to toyota for work to be done and garage kept. Hasn't been taken on the highway in 7yrs until I took it home from North Carolina to Fl. Picked it up, very bad idle, no power, couldn't go passed 40mph, took it to a shop and did a fuel injection clean as it just got tuned up in July and she passed in Sept then it sat till last week. The shop said compression was good but misfire on #3 so we did the fuel injector clean. Drove home like a champ, used high octane, and 3 rounds of fuel injection cleaner on the way home, never going under 80mph for the 10hr drive. 2nd day home the idle starts going in and out, the rpms dont change and its a shiver so to say. I'm leaning towards getting new injectors while my husband wants to do a complete fuel cleaning, tank, filter, rails etc. Its an automatic, 3.0L, 179K miles and the tune up back in july did everything, timing, plugs, wires, water pump etc. A code has been stuck in the truck since 97 and no one can take it off and only my mom knew what it was. Taking off from a light, it hesitates till about 10mph then its fine, has power for drive, but when its sitting at a light the idle gets the attitude back. Im at a loss here. Please help!!

 

[RiFF RaFF]

I got my moms truck after she passed, original owner, only been to toyota for work to be done and garage kept. Hasn't been taken on the highway in 7yrs until I took it home from North Carolina to Fl. Picked it up, very bad idle, no power, couldn't go passed 40mph, took it to a shop and did a fuel injection clean as it just got tuned up in July and she passed in Sept then it sat till last week. The shop said compression was good but misfire on #3 so we did the fuel injector clean. Drove home like a champ, used high octane, and 3 rounds of fuel injection cleaner on the way home, never going under 80mph for the 10hr drive. 2nd day home the idle starts going in and out, the rpms dont change and its a shiver so to say. I'm leaning towards getting new injectors while my husband wants to do a complete fuel cleaning, tank, filter, rails etc. Its an automatic, 3.0L, 179K miles and the tune up back in july did everything, timing, plugs, wires, water pump etc. A code has been stuck in the truck since 97 and no one can take it off and only my mom knew what it was. Taking off from a light, it hesitates till about 10mph then its fine, has power for drive, but when its sitting at a light the idle gets the attitude back. Im at a loss here. Please help!!

First thing I would have checked is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

Second would be this part --

(Air Intake Hose)

If there's any dry rotting/cracks/splits this will cause you all kinds of problems.

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

Thanks, ill look at those when I get home but I filled up the gas and I'm already under a quarter tank w only 53 miles, that worse than my Ford pick up that had a 351w. Could that mean something? The horrible gas mileage?

First thing I would have checked is the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor).

Second would be this part --

(Air Intake Hose)

If there's any dry rotting/cracks/splits this will cause you all kinds of problems.

 

[Footofgod]

Also check your O2 sensor. If your exhaust is not running efficiently, it can rob mpg.

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

That was replaced back in July so shouldnt be a problem but all the hoses and tubes seemed fine, no cracking, or soft spots. Even w the tune up back in july then it being parked, could the #3 plug be cracked or something? AAnd is there a way to manually get the code out of the truck? I know in my Dodge, it was a series of things, key turn x-amount of times and pump the brake x-amount of times and the light would start flashing. Is there a code to get the code out? Shops want 75$ min to scan it

Also check your O2 sensor. If your exhaust is not running efficiently, it can rob mpg.

 

[Footofgod]

Maybe a stupid question, but have you changed the plugs? What brand of plugs and wires are you using? The general consensus here on the forums is that you should only use OEM Denso wires and NGK plugs.

 

[nicnmike]

You can pull the #3 plug and see what it looks like. I had a Celica that didn't like a certain brand of plugs I put in it once (I can't remember the details) I replaced them with a better plug and they worked just fine.

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

It all got done back in July, not sure the brand but just got it scanned for free and it came back with Code 71, EGR System Problem. The Cat got replaced a last year as it was rusty and the truck needed to pass emissions. Thinking of hitting up a junk yard and grabbing a bunch of sensors and seeing if that'll fix the problem of the idle. Any ideas?

Maybe a stupid question, but have you changed the plugs? What brand of plugs and wires are you using? The general consensus here on the forums is that you should only use OEM Denso wires and NGK plugs.

 

[mikebontoft]

do you by any chance have a vacuum hand pump? If not, that's ok...

Although it's another problem I suspect because I have also had it, I'd like you to test the EGR. It's the bigger disc thing next to the one that is directly above your power steering fluid reservoir. This one has a vacuum hose on the very top. pull the hose off and block the hose end with a golf tee or a screw (just something to block it off). Go drive it around or let it warm up... in other words, allow it to run under the conditions where it would normally run rough.

If it runs better now, you have another test to make. Again, a vacuum hand pump (or gauge this time) will be beneficial. This is to see if the VSV (vacuum switching valve) is failing and applying vacuum to the egr when it shouldn't be. If it doesn't pull vacuum... your egr could be stuck open. To test this, simply apply vacuum to the port on the egr and note if a change in running condition is made or not. If you don't have the hand pump, there is a capped off vacuum port on the top of the throttle body that you can run a vacuum hose from.

Also, if it has not been done, I highly suggest you replace the fuel filter as well. It is a regular maintenance item, but a lot of people wait until their fuel pump has failed before replacing it... even though the filter was the cause.

Best of luck!

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

Been there, done that. It ran fine for a few hours but it came back so either the EGR is just bad so of course the truck wont change or its not it which makes me wonder why it threw the code for it. I took the bolt out already since it didnt change.

do you by any chance have a vacuum hand pump? If not, that's ok...

Although it's another problem I suspect because I have also had it, I'd like you to test the EGR. It's the bigger disc thing next to the one that is directly above your power steering fluid reservoir. This one has a vacuum hose on the very top. pull the hose off and block the hose end with a golf tee or a screw (just something to block it off). Go drive it around or let it warm up... in other words, allow it to run under the conditions where it would normally run rough.

If it runs better now, you have another test to make. Again, a vacuum hand pump (or gauge this time) will be beneficial. This is to see if the VSV (vacuum switching valve) is failing and applying vacuum to the egr when it shouldn't be. If it doesn't pull vacuum... your egr could be stuck open. To test this, simply apply vacuum to the port on the egr and note if a change in running condition is made or not. If you don't have the hand pump, there is a capped off vacuum port on the top of the throttle body that you can run a vacuum hose from.

Also, if it has not been done, I highly suggest you replace the fuel filter as well. It is a regular maintenance item, but a lot of people wait until their fuel pump has failed before replacing it... even though the filter was the cause.

Best of luck!

 

[mikebontoft]

so you have applied vacuum to the EGR while it was running and... no change? Or you only did part of it?

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

I dont have a vacuum for it, I plugged the rubber hose w a bolt and drove around. The idle issue came back. -

so you have applied vacuum to the EGR while it was running and... no change? Or you only did part of it?

 

[mikebontoft]

I dont have a vacuum for it, I plugged the rubber hose w a bolt and drove around. The idle issue came back. -

Ok, so go to the parts place and buy two or three feet of the right size vacuum hose so you can connect that capped-off port on the throttle body directly to the EGR. It will apply the vacuum for you.

So you have replaced the fuel filter as well then?

 

[Footofgod]

It all got done back in July, not sure the brand but just got it scanned for free and it came back with Code 71, EGR System Problem. The Cat got replaced a last year as it was rusty and the truck needed to pass emissions. Thinking of hitting up a junk yard and grabbing a bunch of sensors and seeing if that'll fix the problem of the idle. Any ideas?

Brand is important. Find out what is in there!!!

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

Wish I read this before I went to the garage, I took off the EGR sensor and its clean, heres a photo from this morning. The tape is where the protective netting is coming off, the wires look good, no kinks or creases or wear spots. Going to pull a plug now.

Brand is important. Find out what is in there!!!

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

No I havent done a filter, is there one on the body/frame or is it in the tank? I know a good bit about motors but why would the fuel filter throw the EGR code?

Ok, so go to the parts place and buy two or three feet of the right size vacuum hose so you can connect that capped-off port on the throttle body directly to the EGR. It will apply the vacuum for you.

So you have replaced the fuel filter as well then?

 

[Lovin_chevy84]

Cant take the plug out, hubby took his tools w him to work today so took some photos around the motor as I went through some old treads. Curious on the 2 open connectors next to the fender and the cracked black cap by the oil cap. Sorry for the size of the first photo :wow2: