95 runner needs help!

S

smokecdxx

New member
First off I've searched the interweb and this and many other sites aimlessly. I'm not familiar with toyotas so I'm having trouble finding the exact information I need. So please be kind to me.The truck a 95 4runner 3.0 4x4 5speed 153k bought from the original owner had been sitting for about 2 years wasn't running. I added new plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and fresh gas and got it running ok at best. Then I just couldn't get it to start one day and I couldn't hear the fuel pump so I tried the paper clip trick and got it started. Got the injectors cleaned and got a new fuel filter. No change. Still ran sluggish, randomly sounding like it was misfiring, hesitated on acceration, and had no power at all I couldn't go up any hills at all reguardless of the grade.I did a compression test just to make sure it wasn't leaking 155-160 all around. I then advanced the timing via the distributor and it ran great for a week. Then when trying to leave the store it wouldn't start and died 5 times before getting home (less than a mile). It started throwing a code 12. After that I started my quest for an answer found some on yotatech. I've tested the ignition coil and exchanged the cap and rotor and wires for new and changed the plugs. Pulled the distributor to check for shaft play got everything reassembled correctly and not the beast won't start at all. And I'm currently at a loss. I was about to replace the timing belt, pulleys, water pump, and tensioner just because they propably need it. I figured I'd try this site first and see what you guys had to say before I dive any deeper into my pockets and I'm gonna have it slightly disassembled for the belt anyways so why not ask.

Thanks for any that respond.
 
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I don't believe there is a easy way to check fuel pressure. Have you tried starting fluid or brake clean? With air snorkel off have someone crank while giving it a light spray. Be careful cause if it backfires could start a small fire. May have fire extinguisher near by.
 
It sat for a few years, you might want to make sure the exhaust isn't clogged.

Brand matters when it comes to spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap. More often then not, the store brand from the local parts store is crap (experience speaking). If it is not too late, use only OEM (DENSO, AISIN) parts. NGK plugs are also the best for your vehicle.

Clean the throttle body and intake plenum.

Lastly and possible the most important, check every vaccuum hose in that engine. The 3.0 loves to run like crap if there is a vacuum leak.
 
Ok so I got it started. The distributor was 180º out. But now it dies after starting unless I feather it. But even then it sounds terrible. Backfiring and still trying hard to die them I can't get it started after that.
 
I would add three things to what FootofGod said...check your Throttle Position Sensor, possibly adjust your throttle, and replace your O2 sensor. I didn't receive any codes on my 95, but after I had done alot of what you did and what has been recommended, these items above may need some attention.
 
Ok so I can get it to consistently start wants to die for the most part unless feathering the throttle. I don't smell gas but it shuts down immediately if I take Fp +B jumper off. I made a video but I'm uncertain of the best way to upload it.
 
Dropped and cleaned the tank. There was hardly and debris in the tank and the sock/strainer is clean. Still replacing it though. Is there any way to test the fuel pump with it out? I also removed the throttle body and cleaned it. Tested the TPS and it was within spec. Starting to narrow it down but still can't figure out why the pump won't turn on without the jumper installed, any thoughts? I would like to test the Ciruit Opening Relay but cant find a definitive clear way to do such or even what the specs for it are. Any other causes for this problem? I'm letting the tank dry overnight so I have some time before re-install begins.



Thanks in advance guys
 
My truck would start, then stop after like 3 seconds. It ran fine with the +B / FP jumper on. It was my Circuit Opening Relay. Check that. I went to the wrecking yard and got one for like $10.85. If you can find a price like that there, just replace it and see what happens.
 
Just a thought as Im not as familiar with 3.0's as I am with 22re's but check and make sure there are no tears in your intake boot. It can mess with the intake mix and cause it to run like crapola. my 2c's
 
I read about a guy that drilled a hole in the fuel rail and put a schrader valve (is that what they're called?) there. It sounds scary, but it'd be easy to check the pressure or connect a gauge for the dashboard there.
 
So upon assembling the tank back together I noticed the small fuel hose that connects the pump to the bracket was deteriorated pretty bad. Rubber was gooey and split the length of the hose and the mesh underneath had a 1/4 inch hole in it. I replaced the hose installed the tank. And wouldn't you know it started up and is running like a champ. The COR still doesn't work but I just have I jumped until I find a good one.

Thanks everyone I hope this helps someone else one day!
 
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