LittleCaesar
New member
I never get that lucky, to know someone with a lift. Glad it has worked out well for ya....
97 - Broken Thermostat Housing. Any Experience?
- Thread starter anormalflame
- Start date
anormalflame
New member
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]
Okay. Got the TB / WP all buttoned up. Drove it to the guy's shop to return his tools and drove to work. It ran great. Went to leave work and there was some slight hesitation cranking. CEL came on pulling out. I have a cheap bluetooth scanner so I pulled over and checked and this is what came up:
P2000 - Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 – efficiency below threshold
The P2000 code usually indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a level of nitric oxide (referred to here as NOx), as reported by the post-catalyst NOx sensor, that is higher than desired. Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine containing the number one cylinder.
P001D - A Camshaft Profile Control Circuit/Open Bank 2
This diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the crankshaft and camshaft signals are out of time by some measure. When this happens the Power Control Module (PCM) stores the P001D trouble code and triggers the Check Engine Light.
The following are causes for the P001D trouble code: Bad camshaft sensor, Bad crankshaft sensor, Damaged wires to the camshaft sensor, Loose or broken timing chain tensioner, Timing belt has jumped a tooth due to wear, Time chain worn out, or A loose or missing harmonic balancer bolt
B3C04 - Literally nothing on the internet for this one.
hwell:
These were all Pending. I took a screenshot and cleared the codes. I peeled back the timing cover and checked the cam position sensor since I cleaned it. Checked that it was connected. All good. I know the wires aren't severed. I was careful when tucking them behind the cover.
Obviously I replaced the TB / WP, but throughout this process I also replaced the driver's side ABS sensor, airbox, and oil cooler hose all pulled from a newer 4Runner at pull-a-part last week.
Searched T4R.org and couldn't find anything (helpful) on these codes from members. I pulled the EFI fuse for a while after work, and I put it back on and cranked it up just fine with no hesitation. It idled kinda high and went back down to normal range, and it seems to be okay.
I'm going to to double check that I tightened the tensioner enough later. (P001D indicates it being loose as a posibility) Ever seen anything like this? So strange
Okay. Got the TB / WP all buttoned up. Drove it to the guy's shop to return his tools and drove to work. It ran great. Went to leave work and there was some slight hesitation cranking. CEL came on pulling out. I have a cheap bluetooth scanner so I pulled over and checked and this is what came up:
P2000 - Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 – efficiency below threshold
The P2000 code usually indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a level of nitric oxide (referred to here as NOx), as reported by the post-catalyst NOx sensor, that is higher than desired. Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine containing the number one cylinder.
P001D - A Camshaft Profile Control Circuit/Open Bank 2
This diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the crankshaft and camshaft signals are out of time by some measure. When this happens the Power Control Module (PCM) stores the P001D trouble code and triggers the Check Engine Light.
The following are causes for the P001D trouble code: Bad camshaft sensor, Bad crankshaft sensor, Damaged wires to the camshaft sensor, Loose or broken timing chain tensioner, Timing belt has jumped a tooth due to wear, Time chain worn out, or A loose or missing harmonic balancer bolt
B3C04 - Literally nothing on the internet for this one.
hwell:These were all Pending. I took a screenshot and cleared the codes. I peeled back the timing cover and checked the cam position sensor since I cleaned it. Checked that it was connected. All good. I know the wires aren't severed. I was careful when tucking them behind the cover.
Obviously I replaced the TB / WP, but throughout this process I also replaced the driver's side ABS sensor, airbox, and oil cooler hose all pulled from a newer 4Runner at pull-a-part last week.
Searched T4R.org and couldn't find anything (helpful) on these codes from members. I pulled the EFI fuse for a while after work, and I put it back on and cranked it up just fine with no hesitation. It idled kinda high and went back down to normal range, and it seems to be okay.
I'm going to to double check that I tightened the tensioner enough later. (P001D indicates it being loose as a posibility) Ever seen anything like this? So strange
Last edited:
LittleCaesar
New member
I would double checkcheck your wiring leading to the camshaft sensor connector for kinks or the like. Also check the wiring around the ECT sensor. The PCM may be detecting a short to ground.
plcfcng
Member
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]
Okay. Got the TB / WP all buttoned up. Drove it to the guy's shop to return his tools and drove to work. It ran great. Went to leave work and there was some slight hesitation cranking. CEL came on pulling out. I have a cheap bluetooth scanner so I pulled over and checked and this is what came up:
P2000 - Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 – efficiency below threshold
The P2000 code usually indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a level of nitric oxide (referred to here as NOx), as reported by the post-catalyst NOx sensor, that is higher than desired. Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine containing the number one cylinder.
P001D - A Camshaft Profile Control Circuit/Open Bank 2
This diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the crankshaft and camshaft signals are out of time by some measure. When this happens the Power Control Module (PCM) stores the P001D trouble code and triggers the Check Engine Light.
The following are causes for the P001D trouble code: Bad camshaft sensor, Bad crankshaft sensor, Damaged wires to the camshaft sensor, Loose or broken timing chain tensioner, Timing belt has jumped a tooth due to wear, Time chain worn out, or A loose or missing harmonic balancer bolt
B3C04 - Literally nothing on the internet for this one.
These were all Pending. I took a screenshot and cleared the codes. I peeled back the timing cover and checked the cam position sensor since I cleaned it. Checked that it was connected. All good. I know the wires aren't severed. I was careful when tucking them behind the cover.
Obviously I replaced the TB / WP, but throughout this process I also replaced the driver's side ABS sensor, airbox, and oil cooler hose all pulled from a newer 4Runner at pull-a-part last week.
Searched T4R.org and couldn't find anything (helpful) on these codes from members. I pulled the EFI fuse for a while after work, and I put it back on and cranked it up just fine with no hesitation. It idled kinda high and went back down to normal range, and it seems to be okay.
I'm going to to double check that I tightened the tensioner enough later. (P001D indicates it being loose as a posibility) Ever seen anything like this? So strange
If you did not have this problem before there is a 85% chance that it something you did or did not do that caused the problem. I would check my connections pull the timing belt cover and double check my marks again when you turn the crank only turn it clock wise if you miss the mark don't backup. On my first or second head gasket I miss aligned my marks so it does happen that's why there are erasers on pencils.
opcorn:
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION] [MENTION=163346]plcfcng[/MENTION] [MENTION=164664]brillo_76[/MENTION] [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION]
Okay. Got the TB / WP all buttoned up. Drove it to the guy's shop to return his tools and drove to work. It ran great. Went to leave work and there was some slight hesitation cranking. CEL came on pulling out. I have a cheap bluetooth scanner so I pulled over and checked and this is what came up:
P2000 - Nitrogen oxides (NOx) trap, bank 1 – efficiency below threshold
The P2000 code usually indicates that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected a level of nitric oxide (referred to here as NOx), as reported by the post-catalyst NOx sensor, that is higher than desired. Bank 1 refers to the side of the engine containing the number one cylinder.
P001D - A Camshaft Profile Control Circuit/Open Bank 2
This diagnostic trouble code is an indication that the crankshaft and camshaft signals are out of time by some measure. When this happens the Power Control Module (PCM) stores the P001D trouble code and triggers the Check Engine Light.
The following are causes for the P001D trouble code: Bad camshaft sensor, Bad crankshaft sensor, Damaged wires to the camshaft sensor, Loose or broken timing chain tensioner, Timing belt has jumped a tooth due to wear, Time chain worn out, or A loose or missing harmonic balancer bolt
B3C04 - Literally nothing on the internet for this one.
These were all Pending. I took a screenshot and cleared the codes. I peeled back the timing cover and checked the cam position sensor since I cleaned it. Checked that it was connected. All good. I know the wires aren't severed. I was careful when tucking them behind the cover.
Obviously I replaced the TB / WP, but throughout this process I also replaced the driver's side ABS sensor, airbox, and oil cooler hose all pulled from a newer 4Runner at pull-a-part last week.
Searched T4R.org and couldn't find anything (helpful) on these codes from members. I pulled the EFI fuse for a while after work, and I put it back on and cranked it up just fine with no hesitation. It idled kinda high and went back down to normal range, and it seems to be okay.
I'm going to to double check that I tightened the tensioner enough later. (P001D indicates it being loose as a posibility) Ever seen anything like this? So strange
Ignore those codes, your code reader has gone berserk. Those codes are not possible in a 96-02 4Runner, the ECU doesn't have those in it's realm of possibility. Or either that it's reading the codes through the wrong vehicle profile, make sure it's set as a Toyota 4Runner.
We do not have a NOx trap, or a Camshaft profile control circuit, or any code starting with a "B".
anormalflame
New member
Think I’ve figured out the issue. Will report back
Last edited:
anormalflame
New member
Talked to the certified Toyota mechanic I mentioned before that loaned me the tools. He agreed that these codes don't make sense for our trucks and my reader is bonkers.
I've found that I have a stored cylinder misfire on 1 and 6.
P0300
P0301
P0306
This may be my issue. Odd that it's 1 & 6. I have a backup coil in case I need one. Plugs and wires are new.
He also mentioned the contacts in my starter may be an issue for the delayed crank.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
anormalflame
New member
Double check the spark plug wires are connected to the right cylinders:
Wiring was correct. I replaced the wires a few months ago. I pulled all of the plugs. I didn't have a torque wrench when I replaced them so I torqued them all down to 13 ft lb. I also put my back up coil on cylinder 1. No more issues... For now.
anormalflame
New member
Update:
After finishing the TB / WP job I noticed I had a leak. I pulled the belt off in reverse. I pulled the timing cover, no 2. idler pulley, and dropped the tensioner. Sat the belt aside and pulled the WP. I noticed I missed a spot from the previous gasket. Cleaned it up and put it back together. Went to harbor freight and used their display model bench vise to compress the tensioner.
Interesting way to pull the water pump without removing the entire timing belt, but it worked.
Now its riding great. No more codes or issues for now.
On to the next fix... vibration over 50 mph.
Thanks guys!
After finishing the TB / WP job I noticed I had a leak. I pulled the belt off in reverse. I pulled the timing cover, no 2. idler pulley, and dropped the tensioner. Sat the belt aside and pulled the WP. I noticed I missed a spot from the previous gasket. Cleaned it up and put it back together. Went to harbor freight and used their display model bench vise to compress the tensioner.
Interesting way to pull the water pump without removing the entire timing belt, but it worked. Now its riding great. No more codes or issues for now.
On to the next fix... vibration over 50 mph.
Thanks guys!
Last edited:
plcfcng
Member
Long road but glad you got there. If there are any lessons to be learned is a short cut can end up being the long road. Good tools can make the difference, good lighting when working on things help alot, Pressing a bad condition can lead to problems. Life lessons learned so the next time you need to do this type of job it will move along much easier hoping this fix will be a strong one that. Good luck on the next repair:banana:
LittleCaesar
New member
Glad to hear it.
Kudos to having the stones to using HF’s display vice to compress the tensioner. I will be in awe if you use their 20 ton press to press out any bearings in the future. I have used a 6” HF vice for work since 2004, best $38 I have ever spent.
Kudos to having the stones to using HF’s display vice to compress the tensioner. I will be in awe if you use their 20 ton press to press out any bearings in the future. I have used a 6” HF vice for work since 2004, best $38 I have ever spent.
anormalflame
New member
:cheers: 3rd Gen 4Runner Timing Belt
Last edited:
19963.4lsr5
New member
When I had to do headgaskets on the 97 Puppy Hauler the timing belt only had around 10k miles. I used a pipe and compressed the tensioner against the water pump and put the pin back in the tensioner.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
anormalflame
New member
You can also just use a large c-clamp very slowly while keeping it centered.
