Found on craiglist a guy parting 97 4runner. He's parting out R150F tranny with transfer case, also a rear axle with e locker. If we get intouch and make a deal I'm gonna pick this up. Both tranny and axle. Exactly what parts would I need from him to swap my auto to the manual. Both are 97! And what parts if I pick up the real axle with elocker !
97 manual to 97 auto
- Thread starter kolelt
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T4R2014
Elite Member
Ideally, you would want the ECU's for everything, that way you can have a very clean swap without having to trick the transmission ECU into thinking it's in neutral. Also look into the interior pieces. You have a 1997 so I am quite sure that you do not need to change out the gauge cluster. I would compare part numbers on everything to be sure. COB's 4WD conversion is full of fantastic information on this.
Now what about the drive shafts ? Or is it simply just swap the trannys and the ecus ? What about the transfer cases ? I know people swappingng tranny from different years run into much much more issues. But 97 to 97 shouldn't be so much ?? Hope this guy answers. He's asking low $
T4R2014
Elite Member
Driveshafts as well. Don't expect this swap to be a bolt-on affair however. You should do a ton of research before tearing in it. You may also have to move the transmission crossmember as well. I would buy the parts anyway. Even if the swap looks too hard you could flip all that stuff for a profit.
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gamefreakgc
Elite Member
I think I read your title wrong, I thought you were going to take out our manual transmission and put in an automatic and I was like NOOOOO!!!
I second what T4R2014 is saying though, it really is a lot of work. It's not as simple as removing the old transmission and adding a clutch pedal. There's a lot of wiring and fabricating involved to get everything hooked up as it should be.
I second what T4R2014 is saying though, it really is a lot of work. It's not as simple as removing the old transmission and adding a clutch pedal. There's a lot of wiring and fabricating involved to get everything hooked up as it should be.
KidVermicious
New member
You want everything that touches the transmission. Transfer case, driveshafts, clutch assembly and cylinders, ECU, wiring, shifter and trim, etc. Best if you buy the whole truck and part it out yourself when you've finished the swap.
It's official. Gonna pick everything up Sunday. Well everything but the ecu, flywheel, and harness.
Quote , " I can sell u the d shafts trans t case all trim pedals slave cylinder and lines and the clutch start cancel button. I need the ecu and manual engine harness and flywheel and clutch. Everything else you can get."
$400!!
Quote , " I can sell u the d shafts trans t case all trim pedals slave cylinder and lines and the clutch start cancel button. I need the ecu and manual engine harness and flywheel and clutch. Everything else you can get."
$400!!
Like a few others you made it sound like you where going from a manual to and Auto that made me sad, but the other way is better! Year doesn't matter much when going to manual for the most part a R150f is an R150f, if it hasn't already been mentioned, you may need the front diff as your auto is probably 4.30 and damn near all manuals are 4.10 though I don't know about factory e-locked manuals, that would be a good question to ask. You will need the front prop shaft though, auto and manuals front props are different lengths though I belive the rears are the same, please double check me on that.
Lastly, search will lead to several auto to manual swaps, check out [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION], he went from an auto 2wd to a manual 4wd, he still uses the 4 banger though.
Lastly, search will lead to several auto to manual swaps, check out [MENTION=25058]ChildrenOfBodom[/MENTION], he went from an auto 2wd to a manual 4wd, he still uses the 4 banger though.
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Haha sorry about the topic name. I mean 97 manual to 97 auto as in 97 manual tranny going into 97 auto 4runner. Sounds stupid.
What does the gear ratio have to do with tranny swap ? I believe he said that the rear end was 4.10 with e locker. But I'm not buying the rear axle. Just the tranny.
I'll take both drive shafts, the one going to the rear end and the one going to front diff. But why would that affect the gear ratio ? Even if swapping the drive shafts / tranny ? This is interesting ! Do I need the front drive shaft or rear or both ?
What does the gear ratio have to do with tranny swap ? I believe he said that the rear end was 4.10 with e locker. But I'm not buying the rear axle. Just the tranny.
I'll take both drive shafts, the one going to the rear end and the one going to front diff. But why would that affect the gear ratio ? Even if swapping the drive shafts / tranny ? This is interesting ! Do I need the front drive shaft or rear or both ?
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I thought you were going for that E-Locker, if you're not taking the locked rear then you won't have to worry about the gear ratios. The Auto Trans was simply geared differently at output shaft than the manual hence why Toyota put 4.30's in the Auto's and 4.10's in the manuals, if you are just plugging in the trans I'd keep the 4.30's they should give you a tiny bump in low end power. (I'm about to be putting in a 4.30 E-locked rear out of a Auto and will have to change my front diff (clam-shell) to match the rear ratio if you don't have matching ratio's front and rear you can have NASTY transfer case killing bind.)
The 3rd members ARE swappable but not without modification to an open Diff rear axle, and that still leaves the question of the front diff. Search for E-locker retrofit. It involves removing some studs and drilling and tapping holes for new studs as well has cutting a reasonable notch out of the axle housing where the e locker mates up. I didn't want to bother with that and will be jumping to 33's once I get my lift so the lower gear, however slight, is also welcome, it just means I'm going to have to replace my clam-shell up front as well and that's a ***** from what I hear...
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T4R2014
Elite Member
This is most ideal. It looks like he isn't selling the ECU yet so you would have to obtain them separately otherwise.
zgensler31
Senior Member
You don't need an ecu. Take a look at my build thread, it's got a post in there shortly after my swap that has a list of everything you need to get it running and working.
Kryptoroxx
New member
Just did what you're talking about including the retrofit on a non elocker axle. It's definitely some work but if you are reasonably mechanically inclined and you think before you do there is not a whole lot that can go wrong imo.
Much easier if you pull the whole axle and do the cutting, drilling, and tapping on a bench....or at least somewhere you aren't on your back.
I cannot tell the difference between 4.10 and 4.30 honestly. The only difference I could actually see was that my speedo is now accurate with 32" tires lol.
The front diff is difficult but it's like doing anything for the first time. Took me 45min to get out, 5 min to put back in.
Thing is, he sold the the whole axle with elocker already. I'll be missing the ecu, ans the harness. Which would elimate any codes. But I can still wire everything to my auto ecu. But I will get a check engine light and flashing over drive right ? I think I will simply have to loook around for 97 manual ecu and harness to elimante the check engine light and od flashing. Check engine light would fail me for inspection !
Between 3 people, including me. Which I'm no help lol besides give out tools and help here and there. It took an hour to get everything out of the donor 4runner.
Pretty excited, donor truck was 97. Someone already bought the axle with elocker. We did get to test drive the truck. It had 240k on it. Funny thing is, the person who parted out the truck bought of a guy whom I was speaking to and also wanted to buy it but didn't have enough money for the whole car and he wouldn't part it out. Then this guy whom I got just the parts bought of him and he parted the truck out. So in the end I paid less and got what I wanted. $400 only thing I'm missing is ECU, HARNESS, FLYWHEEL/FLYWHEEL BOLTS, CLUTCH. I think I'll be pahorny and get the ecu and harness so I have no codes. Get new u-joints for the driveshafts and some seals for the tranny.
