97 sr5 help

K

kevbot

New member
Hey guys and gals.

I currently own a:
97 Sr5 4Runner 4x4
Auto, 180K
-past maintanence - T-belt, waterpump, thermostate done @ 160k

1.) I was one my way home from a trip last weekend and when I tried to pass someone on the interstate it started to "hip cup" kinda felt like the transmission was slipping every couple seconds. Once at cruising speeds it would be fine until a hill then it would do it again, unless it down shifted then it would be fine at the higher rpm (3k or so).

*I checked the transmission fluid and it was full and didnt have any odd colors.

I would like to note that the 4runner runs/drives fine in town just likes to act up once in the last gear and driving around 50mph and up.

Any ideas on the issue? could it be the transmission? Spark plugs/packs/wires? TPS? other?

2.) I also would like to mention I had a misfire a couple months ago do to moisture getting inside the coil pack, so I was going to replace the plugs and a coil pack, but the previous onwer didnt put anti-seize on the plugs and they are stuck pretty good. Any ideas on how to get these out without breaking them? I put some PB blaster in the spark plug hole and let it soak for now.

thanks for the help.
 
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Sounds to me like you need a tune up. Air filter, fuel filter, plugs and wires, only use NGK or Denso dual electrode plugs and NGK or Denso wires, clean your MAFS, and run a CAN or two of sea foam through your gas tank, and possibly one through your intake... Is also replace the up stream o2 sensor as well
 
Swede said:
When was the last time your fuel filter was replaced?
Click to expand...

No clue I will put it on the list.

the kid said:
Sounds to me like you need a tune up. Air filter, fuel filter, plugs and wires, only use NGK or Denso dual electrode plugs and NGK or Denso wires, clean your MAFS, and run a CAN or two of sea foam through your gas tank, and possibly one through your intake... Is also replace the up stream o2 sensor as well
Click to expand...

As I stated above I tried to replace my plugs but they were stuck in the head. I also dont beleive you need the dual electrode plugs, they just last longer from my understanding.

I replaced my upstream O2 sensor a little over a year ago.

I will start with a basic tune up, but it really felt like my trans when driving.

thanks for the replys
 
kevbot said:
No clue I will put it on the list.



As I stated above I tried to replace my plugs but they were stuck in the head. I also dont beleive you need the dual electrode plugs, they just last longer from my understanding.

I replaced my upstream O2 sensor a little over a year ago.

I will start with a basic tune up, but it really felt like my trans when driving.

thanks for the replys
Click to expand...

ok... we dont know what we are talking about... you could probably save yourself some money and just go buy a set of bosch plugs and belden wires, and there is not much that can be done with the trans on these, once they go, they go, either junk the truck or buy a new trans
 
Update*

I replaced the fuel filter, air filter, spark plug wires, Pvc valve, and 4 of the spark plugs with OEM denso (5 & 6 are still stuck).

It is running a lot better but when I hit the gas to give it some get up and go it starts to do the sutter again.
I wish I could get plugs 5&6 out!

I did get a code for the downstream o2 sensor, but I replaced that last year.

Anyone have anymore ideas? I am leaving for a work trip for a couple weeks then when I get back I am supposed to take the 4runner on a 5 hour trip, so I pretty much have 2 days to figure this out.

thanks in advance
 
Try heating the engine up a little first before going after those two plugs. Might help loosen things up. Get a longer handled ratchet for more leverage.
 
kball said:
Try heating the engine up a little first before going after those two plugs. Might help loosen things up. Get a longer handled ratchet for more leverage.
Click to expand...

How much pressure can I put on these puppies? And how warm do you get the engine? I heard you shouldn't mess around with an aluminum head when it is hot.

Thanks
 
I'm thinking just run it for a couple minutes. Maybe the aluminum head will expand quicker than the plug and loosen things up a bit.

As far as how much pressure. Well, how else are you going to get them out? They will either break free or break. I guess you could just leave them in there forever..? You'll have to decide how far to go before giving up.
 
Crap it is missing really bad I had to stop and pull over. I guess I will have to wait awhile then try and pull the plugs.
 
kball said:
Cool, but don't leave us hanging, how did you get them out?
Click to expand...

When the engine was warmed up, I sprayed some PB Blaster down the plug cylinders and would turn the plug a tiny bit (tightening and loosening) then would move to the other side. Did that for about 2 hours in a gas station parking lot at 1am ha.

luckily I had my tools and the plugs with me.
 
the kid said:
ok... we dont know what we are talking about... you could probably save yourself some money and just go buy a set of bosch plugs and belden wires, and there is not much that can be done with the trans on these, once they go, they go, either junk the truck or buy a new trans
Click to expand...

If you didn't figure it out yet OP, this is sarcasm.

You are only supposed to use OEM spec plugs and wires as TheKid mentioned or it will run like crap.
 
kevbot said:
When the engine was warmed up, I sprayed some PB Blaster down the plug cylinders and would turn the plug a tiny bit (tightening and loosening) then would move to the other side. Did that for about 2 hours in a gas station parking lot at 1am ha.

luckily I had my tools and the plugs with me.
Click to expand...

Wow, that's pretty (over) tight! I think the torque is supposed to be around 18 ft lbs. Basically once the crush washer crushes it's done.
 
BrianSD_42 said:
If you didn't figure it out yet OP, this is sarcasm.

You are only supposed to use OEM spec plugs and wires as TheKid mentioned or it will run like crap.
Click to expand...

If you read my update I said that I replaced the NGK plugs with OEM denso's, but I dont think the NGK single ground plugs were the problem, it was that cylinder 5 had completly stopped sparking cause a misfire.

From my understanding the dual ground helps as the electrode starts to wear out. The electricty will travel on the least resistant path, not through both grounds. Makes sense in my mind but if that is totally false let me know and I will update and delete this part on my comment.

I still have the single ground NGK's in my glove box and if I need to replace the plugs on the road I will use them.
 
kevbot said:
If you read my update I said that I replaced the NGK plugs with OEM denso's, but I dont think the NGK single ground plugs were the problem, it was that cylinder 5 had completly stopped sparking cause a misfire.

From my understanding the dual ground helps as the electrode starts to wear out. The electricty will travel on the least resistant path, not through both grounds. Makes sense in my mind but if that is totally false let me know and I will update and delete this part on my comment.

I still have the single ground NGK's in my glove box and if I need to replace the plugs on the road I will use them.
Click to expand...

just throw those single electrode NGKs away... you need dual electrode plugs -fyi the way the 3.4 motor came from toyota was 3 denso dual electrode plugs, and 3 NGK dual electrode plugs, the denso plugs are on the side with the coil packs, and the NGK plugs are on the wire side... your missfire was a result of not having the proper plugs in, if you would have just switched out the 5 and 6 plugs with the "correct" dual electrode pugs (either NGK or denso -they both work fine used solely), then your missfire would have just started moving to another cylinder in time... trust me the dual electrode is not a gimmick, some motors are designed to run with them.
 
the kid said:
just throw those single electrode NGKs away... you need dual electrode plugs -fyi the way the 3.4 motor came from toyota was 3 denso dual electrode plugs, and 3 NGK dual electrode plugs, the denso plugs are on the side with the coil packs, and the NGK plugs are on the wire side... your missfire was a result of not having the proper plugs in, if you would have just switched out the 5 and 6 plugs with the "correct" dual electrode pugs (either NGK or denso -they both work fine used solely), then your missfire would have just started moving to another cylinder in time... trust me the dual electrode is not a gimmick, some motors are designed to run with them.
Click to expand...

I had dual electrode plugs in the cyclinder with the misfire, but it was an older plug that was stuck from the previous owner.

So what is the purpose for the second ground? another option for the electricy to travel correct?
 
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