98 Turbo (re)build

Ahhhh so the FIC/6 automatically adjusts the reading for the stock ecu under tune? that is handy. I maybe just have to try that route. any idea where I can find those baby blue injectors?
 
jerrydub10 said:
what do you mean by O2 sensor skewing? like a wideband emulator?
Click to expand...

It adds or removes voltage to the ECU so the computer thinks it's running lean, so it richens up the mix. I have AFR's in the high 12's even before I hit open loop (WOT). Around town it gives a noticable increase in power since the O2 sensor and ECU will de-tune any fuel you add after a few trips. Without O2 sensor skewing or a full standalone aftermarket ECU you will never get it to hold a tune at anything other than WOT.
 
gamefreakgc said:
It adds or removes voltage to the ECU so the computer thinks it's running lean, so it richens up the mix. I have AFR's in the high 12's even before I hit open loop (WOT). Around town it gives a noticable increase in power since the O2 sensor and ECU will de-tune any fuel you add after a few trips. Without O2 sensor skewing or a full standalone aftermarket ECU you will never get it to hold a tune at anything other than WOT.
Click to expand...

Close, but not quite. The factory ECU shouldn’t “see” a change at all in the O2, which is why ideal factory ECU fuel trims should be 0.
 
Hey guys so I got the block and heads back from the machine shop today. Heads look brand new. I'm putting some rust remover on the block to sit over night so that I can paint it on Saturday.
I have a question though. Does anyone know the ring order for the compression rings? I got new pistons and rings in the kit and the compression ones are labeled first and second but no instructions. So I dont k ow if 1st is on top or bottom. Maybe I'm overthinking it but I really dont wanna mess this up.
I'm going to contact LCE tomorrow to see if they know since its their kit.
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jerrydub10 said:
Hey guys so I got the block and heads back from the machine shop today. Heads look brand new. I'm putting some rust remover on the block to sit over night so that I can paint it on Saturday.
I have a question though. Does anyone know the ring order for the compression rings? I got new pistons and rings in the kit and the compression ones are labeled first and second but no instructions. So I dont k ow if 1st is on top or bottom. Maybe I'm overthinking it but I really dont wanna mess this up.
I'm going to contact LCE tomorrow to see if they know since its their kit.
2f30526281ea073b087dc84e365b460f.jpg


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Click to expand...

I've never seen anyone rebuild a 5VZ on here before so call LCE. Dont forget to set the ring gap & have them in the right order, usually it goes from the top down. Sorry I have no specs for anything.
 
Last edited:
Scramble said:
I've never seen anyone rebuild a 5VZ on here before so call LCE. Dont forget to set the rig gap & have them in the right order, usually it goes from the top down. Sorry I have no specs for anything.
Click to expand...

Yeah seems like most people on here will just replace a 5VZ before rebuilding it. I ended up picking up this engine for $100 from a guy out here, it had a bottom end knock, so i figured i might as well spend the same amount to rebuild it as it would cost me to get one with 70k miles on it.

As of right now I'm waiting for an LCE tech to get on chat so I can ask them about it, cause the rings were supposed to come pre gapped, and I think I found the order they go in I just want to verify.
I am stuck on my ship today so I have to wait to paint until tomorrow but I sure am getting giddy, I feel like a fat kid in a candy store with all these new parts.
 
jerrydub10 said:
Yeah seems like most people on here will just replace a 5VZ before rebuilding it. I ended up picking up this engine for $100 from a guy out here, it had a bottom end knock, so i figured i might as well spend the same amount to rebuild it as it would cost me to get one with 70k miles on it.

As of right now I'm waiting for an LCE tech to get on chat so I can ask them about it, cause the rings were supposed to come pre gapped, and I think I found the order they go in I just want to verify.
I am stuck on my ship today so I have to wait to paint until tomorrow but I sure am getting giddy, I feel like a fat kid in a candy store with all these new parts.
Click to expand...

Maybe they are but you still need to check them & all tolorences. I'd hate to see you go through all of this work & then blow it up.

Someday I plan on buying a LCE Stage 3 3RZ or build it myself if I cant afford the long block. It'll be around $7000. If I did it myself I'd have to buy all of the tools to do it right. Yea! fat kid! LOL
 
Scramble said:
Maybe they are but you still need to check them & all tolorences. I'd hate to see you go through all of this work & then blow it up.

Someday I plan on buying a LCE Stage 3 3RZ or build it myself if I cant afford the long block. It'll be around $7000. If I did it myself I'd have to buy all of the tools to do it right. Yea! fat kid! LOL
Click to expand...

Yeah I plan on checking the gap when i get home tomorrow, once i find my feeler gauges. do i need to check them all or just a couple?
 
jerrydub10 said:
gotcha, ok stupid question, but does that include the oil rings or no? sorry ive never had to check rings before. my dad would always be the one to do that stuff. this is my first FULL engine rebuild without him helping.
Click to expand...

It's not a stupid question, I've never rebuilt an engine but I did do cylinder work in school 35 years ago & have watched hundreds of engine building videos.

This is a good article on rings.

Gap Rap: How to Measure and Set Piston Ring End Gap - OnAllCylinders
 
So I got the crank, rear main, and oil pump put in yesterday. Today I'm working on the pistons. Got one in so far. Its slow going with all the measuring and double checking.
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Im sure youve heard it before, but a standalone ECU would really be the way to go, you could get any size injectors and not have to worry about the stock ECU (not made for boost) messing with your timing under WOT since you are giving it skewed results from the sensors.

I would recommend getting a patch harness and a megasquirt 3 or really any good FIC
 
Yeah ive heard haha, but I'm gonna have to deal with the piggyback for awhile since I would have to save up for the injectors and standalone. And my wife would kill me spending that much money on it right now.
schmauster said:
Im sure youve heard it before, but a standalone ECU would really be the way to go, you could get any size injectors and not have to worry about the stock ECU (not made for boost) messing with your timing under WOT since you are giving it skewed results from the sensors.

I would recommend getting a patch harness and a megasquirt 3 or really any good FIC
Click to expand...

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Ok another silly question. Is there supposed to be play in between the connecting rods and crank? When I bolted them down I noticed you can still wiggle the rod a little bit.

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