99-4R Please help with clunk sound while turning right!

hawkcharmer

Member
Please help me diagnose this clunking sound. I get this clunk while turning the wheel to the right just before full lock at stand still with truck parked.
No clunk with wheels off the ground.

Most steering components are new and replaced with all oem. The following parts have been replaced.
LCA w/new oem bushings torqued to 96' lb
New LBJ's
New steering rack and tie rods
New steering intermediate joint

Also...new bilstein shocks, tundra springs, caliper upgrade, pads, rotors, rack is torqued to spec. The clunk started recently about a year after all of the new parts were installed. I've been chasing it down since then.

The only thing that I didn't replace in the steering department is UBJ's. They are not leaking tho and have no movement.

What else to check???? Can clunking be from CV axle? There is no clicking or leaks. Bad alignment? Something binding perhaps? It steers straight. I can't figure this out and it is driving me mad!

Any feedback is greatly appreciated. Thank you
 
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Did you check your bushings for your steering rack? I'd start from your steering rack and work my way out as far as bushings go. Maybe have someone get in and turn it from bump to bump while you try to pinpoint the noise. If not, jack up the front end and then start by checking for tire slop by doing the ball joint check. I'm sure it's not the ball joints, but if you can get down to where you're closer to the source of the sound it might be easier to find what you're looking for.
 
Brand new Toyota Steering rack and bushings installed yesterday. I thought the rack would get rid of the clunk only to find out over $500 later the clunk is still there. I'll get under it today while my wife steers from lock to lock.

Does the cv axle supposed to have movement? I know the axle itself has slight movement, but what about the cover part that connects to differential? Does this seal tight to diff? I have small gap and slight movement with both .
 

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Does the cv axle supposed to have movement? I know the axle itself has slight movement, but what about the cover part that connects to differential? Does this seal tight to diff? I have small gap and slight movement with both .

Yes, mine had about a mil in and out of the diff, none front to back though. Thought they were sloppy because of it. When the boots tore after my lift I replaced them with extended articulation cv's and they had the exact same amount of play. The ECGS bushing took away a tiny bit of that play, but it does exist. I think getting under it while someone else steers is your best bet.
 
Brand new Toyota Steering rack and bushings installed yesterday. I thought the rack would get rid of the clunk only to find out over $500 later the clunk is still there. I'll get under it today while my wife steers from lock to lock.

Does the cv axle supposed to have movement? I know the axle itself has slight movement, but what about the cover part that connects to differential? Does this seal tight to diff? I have small gap and slight movement with both .

Sounds like an outer CV joint. It's easy to check. The inner or outer joint don't seal tight. You should have about an eighth inch of in and out play. The problem would be lateral play. Grab the axle shaft near each joint and pull and jerk on it real hard. There should be no play.
 
Sounds like an outer CV joint. It's easy to check. The inner or outer joint don't seal tight. You should have about an eighth inch of in and out play. The problem would be lateral play. Grab the axle shaft near each joint and pull and jerk on it real hard. There should be no play.

Last I checked, I have barely any play in the axle itself, but I can pull the cover in and out about 1/8" from where it connects to diff on both sides. I'll try again today and it give it a harder pull.

I just installed the new rack and I'm afraid to drive it anywhere prior to my alignment on Monday. Im not sure that the clunking is coming from tie-rods, rack etc.. but I don't want to chance it with the clunk. I matched marked the tie-rods, but what if they're off and 1/8' or so, would this cause binding in the rack? I don't want to destroy anything in the new rack. I did however have the clunk prior to installing the rack, which I thought the rack would fix
 
Does anyone know what alignment specs should be? I have approximately 2.5" lift w/265/75/16.Tundra/Bilstein up front. OME in rear.

I was told camber closest to Zero and toe 0.04
 
Does anyone know what alignment specs should be? I have approximately 2.5" lift w/265/75/16.Tundra/Bilstein up front. OME in rear.

I was told camber closest to Zero and toe 0.04

The alignment specs should be factory like they were before you lifted. You'll have to correct your geometry if you haven't. Did you install a differential drop to correct CV axle angles. Upper control arms to bring castor to factory. You'll need to correct toe. That's the only thing you should have adjust if your geometry is correct. CV axle joints go bad much quicker with excessive angle. I made a video when my CV axle got a little slop on how to check.
 

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