99 SR5 3.4 V6 boot/wire/plug job

ATX3runner

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Hey guys, I've got a 99 sr5 3.4 that im about to do a total boot/wire/plug rebuild. This is my first real diy project on this car so please feel free to explain anything to me like im five. That being said, I really only have two questions:
1. How does everyone feel about this setup?

(3×) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007PZRODO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

(6×) Amazon.com: NGK (3967) BKR5EKB-11 Standard Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive

(1×) Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
2. What else if anything I should be cleaning/replacing for cheap while I'm in there and things are moved around?
 
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looks good, the rear plugs on the driver side are the worst but not hard to get out. Have you check changed ur air filter?
 
Don't do those plugs, get ones with the two side electrodes on the top like so...

2electrodes.jpg
 

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Stupid simple easy to swap this stuff. Just make sure you know which wire goes where. If you get a plug that won't turn, squirt some penetrating lube in the hole and work the plug back and forth and let it soak a while. I had two that were that way. ALWAYS USE ANTI-SEIZE on the threads before putting them back in. I don't care what anything online says it doesn't affect the spark or plug and it will keep the plug from seizing to the aluminum head and potentially damaging the threads when you pull them again.
 
My tip for spark plugs is to get a 18-24" length of 3/8" fuel or coolant hose. Slip it over the insulator and use that to insert and start the plugs in the thread. Gives a much better feel than a steel wrench and if you cross thread, the hose slips and you know to try again. Permanent part of my tool kit.
 
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Hey guys, I've got a 99 sr5 3.4 that im about to do a total boot/wire/plug rebuild. This is my first real diy project on this car so please feel free to explain anything to me like im five. That being said, I really only have two questions:
1. How does everyone feel about this setup?

(3×) http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007PZRODO/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

(6×) Amazon.com: NGK (3967) BKR5EKB-11 Standard Spark Plug, Pack of 1: Automotive

(1×) Amazon.com: NGK (4412) TE66 Wire Set: Automotive
2. What else if anything I should be cleaning/replacing for cheap while I'm in there and things are moved around?

You can change your PCV valve while you are at it. The valve and grommet shouldn't cost more that $6 total and will help with emissions. It's the funny looking gadget on the passenger's side valve cover with the hose coming off of it (other end of the hose is on your throttle body). It's a bit of a pain to pull out, just don't lose any parts down the motor! There's a little "shelf" under the valve so if you do drop something, use need nose pliers to get it out. Also, make sure it's pointed the right way when you press the new one in (a little bit of engine oil will help it go in). Once it's in your cannot rotate it.

Air filter is a good thing to check, if you don't know the history then paper ones are cheap enough, just get a new one. Other than that, these engines are very simple to maintain, not much is needed really.
 
Thanks y'all. I got this car from my aunt along with a myriad of problems. For starters, She got the oil changed twice between 99-12. I dont know if its because of this but theres a pretty bad oil leak that I've been putting off because im not sure where its coming from (is it possible that it could just be the cap?) Also about a week beforw i got it someone stole the cat converter off the bottom and she got a new one "bolted" (clamped) on which im going to post about later.
Im pretty new to doing any work myself and really appreciate the help here. One more question for now, does anyone know of a detailed diagram of the engine compartment for reference?
 

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