99 T4R Timing Belt HELP!

richamc01

New member
Hello all,

I need some advice from you folks here on the forum. My 99 T4R recently just broke down on my girlfriend while I was out of town. When I got back I was able to do a bit of digging into why this may have happened.

She told me that she noticed a huge puddle of something under the vehicle but as she doesn't know much about cars, she drove it to work anyway. On her way home from work the runner started running like crap and a few minutes later, died leaving her stuck on the side of the road. Everything she explained to me led me to believe that it had overheated. I know that most engines, when overheating, will shut down one or more of the cylinders and just have them pumping air to try and cool the engine down, thus causing it to run like crap.

Once I got home and I was able to look into it, I found the puddle on the ground that she mentioned, and it was in fact coolant. I popped the hood on the runner and it had no coolant at all in it. I began to try and find where it might have been leaking from. My first thought was the water pump as this is the area where it looked like it was coming from. I took off the timing belt cover to have a closer look and this is what I discovered....(See attached pics).

As you can see in the pics, the idler bearing has exploded. When this happened, it tore up my timing belt and the timing belt skipped a few notches.

What I think happened, is this bearing exploded the day before it over heated on her causing the belt to put enough tension on the water pump to allow the coolant to leak out. The timing was off, but not enough to cause the engine to not run, eventually it leaked out enough coolant to cause it to overheat and die.

Now, I can fix all of this mess, however I'm not sure what kind of internal damage may have been caused when the idler bearing exploded and when it overheated. I would hate to spend $300 in parts and all of my time, just to find out that it now has a cracked head or a shot head gasket. I know the 5VZ-FE engine in the T4R is a non-interference engine, so in theory there should be no damage to the valves in this case.

I'm just unsure as to what internal damage may have been caused when all of this happened and I need your guys' opinion.

Lastly, I have found many videos and write-ups on how to replace the timing belt but I cant seem to find anything on how to set the timing correctly when it is out like mine is. I cant really set everything to TDC with the belt on when its off already like mine is. How can I ensure everything is lined up correctly? I can set the number one to TDC but how do I know that everything else is in the correct position.

Thank in advance everyone, I really need some help here.
 

Attachments

  • 20171201_224926893_iOS.jpg
    20171201_224926893_iOS.jpg
    130.9 KB · Views: 563
  • 20171201_224951203_iOS.jpg
    20171201_224951203_iOS.jpg
    136.9 KB · Views: 521
  • 20171201_224936977_iOS.jpg
    20171201_224936977_iOS.jpg
    130.8 KB · Views: 543
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Put crank at tdc. The cams should be fairly close, if it was running. Remove belt and move cams to alignment marks, if they are off.

Look for other causes of a coolant leak. (rad, hoses, etc.)

Heads might be cracked or warped, possibly a blown head gasket.
 
Put crank at tdc. The cams should be fairly close, if it was running. Remove belt and move cams to alignment marks, if they are off.

Look for other causes of a coolant leak. (rad, hoses, etc.)

Heads might be cracked or warped, possibly a blown head gasket.


Thank you for the tips!
 
Hopefully no major damage occurred. I think you should pressure test your cooling system first to figure out if a leak caused the overheating. After that, I think you should just do the timing belt job that definitely includes replacing the water pump and thermostat.

If you're lucky, the engine is running fine after this. It is a risk of spending money on a damaged engine but how else are you going to figure out the engine is toast without first replacing the timing belt, water pump and the #1 idler pulley?

Here's a couple videos you can use. Disregard our struggle with the timing belt in Part 1 because we show a much easier way in Part 2.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vHC46ypHxWc" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Hopefully no major damage occurred. I think you should pressure test your cooling system first to figure out if a leak caused the overheating. After that, I think you should just do the timing belt job that definitely includes replacing the water pump and thermostat.

If you're lucky, the engine is running fine after this. It is a risk of spending money on a damaged engine but how else are you going to figure out the engine is toast without first replacing the timing belt, water pump and the #1 idler pulley?

Here's a couple videos you can use. Disregard our struggle with the timing belt in Part 1 because we show a much easier way in Part 2.

These videos are awesome! Thank you. Using your first video, I finished getting everything dismantled today. Now I'm just waiting for the new parts to arrive.

A couple of questions: You mention getting the cooling system pressure tested. Is this something that I can do myself with a specialty tool from Auto Zone or somewhere similar?

While I'm doing the timing belt and I have everything already taken apart, should I go ahead and do the valve cover gaskets and check my valve clearances? I know this is almost a job on its own but I think I may as well go ahead and get it done. Thoughts? Have you done or can you recommend a video or write-up on this procedure?

Thanks again for the videos, they are a huge help.
 
Wow. that's crazy.

You could do a leak down test to check for any head/head gasket damage. before you spend a bunch of money but if you have already ordered the parts, might as well put it all back together and turn the key. You will know in short order what's up.
 
When I was taking the radiator out for the timing belt install, I took the transmission cooler lines off as I needed to. The inlet side is completely stripped. Is this fixable or is it time for a new radiator?

If I do need a new radiator, should I go ahead and do the external transmission cooler or should I use the system on the new radiator?
235c72034eb8126ef009bab634146dfd.jpg
fa28a91291ff7faa2c52d6b7bf9f5386.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
After doing a bit more research, I discovered that this is a bit more common than I thought and now know that it is not fixable. I guess I'll order a new radiator while I'm at it.
 
These videos are awesome! Thank you. Using your first video, I finished getting everything dismantled today. Now I'm just waiting for the new parts to arrive.

A couple of questions: You mention getting the cooling system pressure tested. Is this something that I can do myself with a specialty tool from Auto Zone or somewhere similar?

While I'm doing the timing belt and I have everything already taken apart, should I go ahead and do the valve cover gaskets and check my valve clearances? I know this is almost a job on its own but I think I may as well go ahead and get it done. Thoughts? Have you done or can you recommend a video or write-up on this procedure?

Thanks again for the videos, they are a huge help.

I don't know of auto parts stores rent cooling system pressure testers. I've heard the one that Mitivac makes is decent doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

We have a video for the valve cover gaskets but not for the valve adjustment. Just check our channel for the valve cover gasket video. It's one of our first videos. I'd provide you a link but I'm out on a wildland fire in Ventura County in Southern California and I can't figure out how to copy and paste a link with my phone.
 
I don't know of auto parts stores rent cooling system pressure testers. I've heard the one that Mitivac makes is decent doesn't cost an arm and a leg.



We have a video for the valve cover gaskets but not for the valve adjustment. Just check our channel for the valve cover gasket video. It's one of our first videos. I'd provide you a link but I'm out on a wildland fire in Ventura County in Southern California and I can't figure out how to copy and paste a link with my phone.



Not a problem, I found the video and I have everything dismantled for that project as well as the timing belt project. Just waiting for parts now. Your videos are awesome BTW. Thank you.

Here's what I'm currently looking at...
35c06fe889737e88c037df35d0f0ef32.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Note to self: remind gf never to just 'drive it' after finding a large puddle of anything leaking. She may have cost you a new, rebuilt or used motor and all this time.

I would be extremely displeased by that level of stupidity and would have to think twice about continuing to date her (seriously). I can tolerate a lot of stuff but ignorance and stupidity.

In this day/age of cell phones there is very little excuse for her not to call you when she saw the problem unless you were completely unavailable.
 
Note to self: remind gf never to just 'drive it' after finding a large puddle of anything leaking. She may have cost you a new, rebuilt or used motor and all this time.

I would be extremely displeased by that level of stupidity and would have to think twice about continuing to date her (seriously). I can tolerate a lot of stuff but ignorance and stupidity.

In this day/age of cell phones there is very little excuse for her not to call you when she saw the problem unless you were completely unavailable.

I dated a girl once who drove 41,000 miles on the fresh from the factory Honda oil in her 98 Honda Civic. I drained about 12oz out of the crankcase when changing it. That is one hell of an add pack Honda puts in their factory oil...

To the OP: I would have at least performed a leak down test to see if the internals are at least healthy when cold.....
 
I would be extremely displeased by that level of stupidity and would have to think twice about continuing to date her (seriously). I can tolerate a lot of stuff but ignorance and stupidity.

Dude that's like 90% of women out there lol.
 
Well, a few hundred dollars and a few days in the garage later, I've got everything put back together and a running T4R again! Here's a list of everything I did:

Cleaned Throttle Body
Cleaned Mass Airflow Sensor
Dayco WP271K1CS - Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump, Idler Pulleys, Crankshaft Seal, Thermostat Gasket and Camshaft Seals - $89.79
Bando 4PK870 - A/C Belt - $4.91
Bando 4PK1068 - Power Steering Belt - $5.61
Bando 4PK1050 - Alternator Belt - $5.86
ACDelco 12T35D - 180F Thermostat - $9.39
BECK/ARNLEY 0450297 - PCV Valve - $3.38
BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 - PCV Valve Grommet - $1.80
BECK/ARNLEY 0524018 - Rear Camshaft Seal - $4.85
BECK/ARNLEY 0374817 - Intake Plenum Gasket - $8.79 x 2 = $17.58
BECK/ARNLEY 0396555 - Valve Cover Semi-circular Plug - $8.10
BECK/ARNLEY 0361583 - Valve Cover Gaskets, Tube Seals and Bolt Grommets - $33.79
FEL-PRO 61038 - Throttle Body Gasket - $1.50
Fram CA7626 - Air Filter - $11.80
Motorcraft FG1099 - Fuel Filter - $1.32
NGK 4412 - Spark Plug Wire Set - $22.79
CARQUEST 431402 - Radiator - $106.49
NGK BKR5EKB-11 - Spark Plugs - $3.49 x 6 = $20.94
Ultra-Black RTV - $7.99
Silicon Gasket Maker - $4.29
Coolant - $12.99 x 3 = $38.97
Taxes and Shipping - $111.89

Grand Total - $513.04

The runner seems to be running great now. There's no overheating and it idles smooth. There does however seem to be a noticeable "whine" while the engine is running. Is this normal and the new belts just breaking in? It's not super loud but it is noticeable.
 
Last edited:
Well, a few hundred dollars and a few days in the garage later, I've got everything put back together and a running T4R again! Here's a list of everything I did:

Cleaned Throttle Body
Cleaned Mass Airflow Sensor
Dayco WP271K1CS - Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump, Idler Pulleys, Crankshaft Seal, Thermostat Gasket and Camshaft Seals - $89.79
Bando 4PK870 - A/C Belt - $4.91
Bando 4PK1068 - Power Steering Belt - $5.61
Bando 4PK1050 - Alternator Belt - $5.86
ACDelco 12T35D - 180F Thermostat - $9.39
BECK/ARNLEY 0450297 - PCV Valve - $3.38
BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 - PCV Valve Grommet - $1.80
BECK/ARNLEY 0524018 - Rear Camshaft Seal - $4.85
BECK/ARNLEY 0374817 - Intake Plenum Gasket - $8.79 x 2 = $17.58
BECK/ARNLEY 0396555 - Valve Cover Semi-circular Plug - $8.10
BECK/ARNLEY 0361583 - Valve Cover Gaskets, Tube Seals and Bolt Grommets - $33.79
FEL-PRO 61038 - Throttle Body Gasket - $1.50
Fram CA7626 - Air Filter - $11.80
Motorcraft FG1099 - Fuel Filter - $1.32
NGK 4412 - Spark Plug Wire Set - $22.79
CARQUEST 431402 - Radiator - $106.49
NGK BKR5EKB-11 - Spark Plugs - $3.49 x 6 = $20.94
Ultra-Black RTV - $7.99
Silicon Gasket Maker - $4.29
Coolant - $12.99 x 3 = $38.97
Taxes and Shipping - $111.89

Grand Total - $513.04

The runner seems to be running great now. There's no overheating and it idles smooth. There does however seem to be a noticeable "whine" while the engine is running. Is this normal and the new belts just breaking in? It's not super loud but it is noticeable.

Good to hear. I would have opted for OEM for both the thermostat and and fuel filter, but if it works, then drive on.
 
Well, a few hundred dollars and a few days in the garage later, I've got everything put back together and a running T4R again! Here's a list of everything I did:

Cleaned Throttle Body
Cleaned Mass Airflow Sensor
Dayco WP271K1CS - Timing Belt Kit with Water Pump, Idler Pulleys, Crankshaft Seal, Thermostat Gasket and Camshaft Seals - $89.79
Bando 4PK870 - A/C Belt - $4.91
Bando 4PK1068 - Power Steering Belt - $5.61
Bando 4PK1050 - Alternator Belt - $5.86
ACDelco 12T35D - 180F Thermostat - $9.39
BECK/ARNLEY 0450297 - PCV Valve - $3.38
BECK/ARNLEY 0396428 - PCV Valve Grommet - $1.80
BECK/ARNLEY 0524018 - Rear Camshaft Seal - $4.85
BECK/ARNLEY 0374817 - Intake Plenum Gasket - $8.79 x 2 = $17.58
BECK/ARNLEY 0396555 - Valve Cover Semi-circular Plug - $8.10
BECK/ARNLEY 0361583 - Valve Cover Gaskets, Tube Seals and Bolt Grommets - $33.79
FEL-PRO 61038 - Throttle Body Gasket - $1.50
Fram CA7626 - Air Filter - $11.80
Motorcraft FG1099 - Fuel Filter - $1.32
NGK 4412 - Spark Plug Wire Set - $22.79
CARQUEST 431402 - Radiator - $106.49
NGK BKR5EKB-11 - Spark Plugs - $3.49 x 6 = $20.94
Ultra-Black RTV - $7.99
Silicon Gasket Maker - $4.29
Coolant - $12.99 x 3 = $38.97
Taxes and Shipping - $111.89

Grand Total - $513.04

The runner seems to be running great now. There's no overheating and it idles smooth. There does however seem to be a noticeable "whine" while the engine is running. Is this normal and the new belts just breaking in? It's not super loud but it is noticeable.

Maybe that whine is coming from your girlfriend who is wondering why you dont have any money to spend on taking her out on a date.
:deadhorse:
 
Maybe that whine is coming from your girlfriend who is wondering why you dont have any money to spend on taking her out on a date.
:deadhorse:

Look man, I tried to take the "high road" and ignore your stupid ass, unhelpful post the first time. If you really have nothing better to do with your time but write condescending replies to people's posts on here, then thats your business, but I suggest you attempt to get an actual meaningful life. I come to this forum to get useful knowledge and input about a problem I may be having with my vehicle, not for your dating "advice". I'm all for jokes and I have a pretty decent sense of humor but, one comment was enough. The second time is just downright disrespectful.

I would appreciate it if you refrained from posting anything on my topics in the future, unless you have something worthwhile to say; which I seriously doubt ever happens for you.

Just in case I'm using too big of words for you child, I'll dumb it down to your 3rd grade level and translate this message for you; shut the **** up and mind your own damn business.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,311
Messages
3,554,082
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top