Hey guys, my 4runner keeps burning oil and I'm sure it's not healthy for me to keep breathing those fumes in so I wanted to have the gasket replaced and while there I might as well have the timing belt and water pump done since it's only ever been done once before. What should I expect in terms of cost if I take it to a shop? Or would it be better to buy the parts myself and use a mobile tech? Are there any kits on amazon/ebay that anyone recommends? Any recommended techs in SoCal
99 Timing Belt Cost?
- Thread starter crespoh69
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Burning oil is almost always piston rings. How much oil over how many miles are you low? Any external oil leaks?
EDIT: For some reason I thought you were talking about a head gasket when you said "gasket". Didn't even consider valve cover gaskets leaking.
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mtbtim
Elite Member
The valve cover gasket job really isn't related to the timing belt job. They are two different animals.
You don't need a shop if you're willing to invest in tools and learn. These days, turning wrenches is much easier because of the amount of information available on the internet. You have forums like this, people make write-ups and others like me make videos. If you have to time, space, tools and patience, you can do most jobs on your own without having to rely on a shop.
Here's my valve cover gasket video.
You can then use these videos to tackle the timing belt job.
You don't need a shop if you're willing to invest in tools and learn. These days, turning wrenches is much easier because of the amount of information available on the internet. You have forums like this, people make write-ups and others like me make videos. If you have to time, space, tools and patience, you can do most jobs on your own without having to rely on a shop.
Here's my valve cover gasket video.
You can then use these videos to tackle the timing belt job.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Good point. I was assuming when he was mentioning breathing in fumes it was from the oil dripping from the leaking valve covers onto the exhaust manifolds. When that happens, you can really smell it inside the cab.
Yeah, this is actually what's happening, I can only tighten down those bolts so many times before it gets annoying.
My brain for some reason auto corrected "gasket" to "head gasket". :noidea:
I didn't even consider he was talking about the valve cover gaskets. Good catch.
I gently tightened all the (rather loose) valve cover bolts on mine when it first started leaking, and it lasted... 15K miles? 20K? Then it started leaking again. It's a slightly bigger task than it could be, since some of the bolts are buried under the upper intake, but it's not bad. And as already mentioned, it doesn't really coincide with a TB job in any way, you're not removing any of the same parts.
Get a good quality OEM gasket set. I've seen some bad results from aftermarket parts - more specifically those rubber washers that go under the bolts. The aftermarket ones turned to mush pretty quickly. The OEM's don't do that.
Get a good quality OEM gasket set. I've seen some bad results from aftermarket parts - more specifically those rubber washers that go under the bolts. The aftermarket ones turned to mush pretty quickly. The OEM's don't do that.
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes the valve pans can get bad enough seeping that they really stink.. I have that delima now on my daily driver 3rd gen. I trying to hold off though as I have to adjust the valves while I am in there. So I want to get another 1 or 2 on the road first. So I definitely adjust the valves if the heads are off as it's probably alot easier to to that way then on the engine.
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Understood, thanks for your help and guidance. I've removed the plenum before when doing my fuel injectors and would rather just get as much done as possible instead of having to take it all apart again in another few months. I did the injectors some time this year or late last year I think and honestly should have done the job while I had everything apart then.
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