A build for going.... offthebeatenpath

My goal for this truck is being able to handle (most) all that Montana has to offer, the only issue is that it still has to fit within my budget....

I'll try to stay on top of updates, but with being a new homeowner and the father of two energetic little girls (3.5 and 20 mos) sitting in front of the computer isn't super high on my priority list.

I've learned a ton from forums like this one, as well as this one, so hopefully this can be a source of info for others as well.

A bit of background- I wasn't much of a wrench guy until a bought an '85 CJ7 back in college, and well, that sort of forced me to become a wrench guy. It would have been parked more than driven if I didn't fix it. My roommate had one as well, so we learned together. My cell phone voicemail message used to say, "Either I'm under my Jeep fixing something and can't reach my phone, or I'm driving it and can't hear my phone ring, so leave me a message and I'll call you when I get off the concrete." Well, I went through that Jeep, did an engine swap, sold it; bought an '98 XJ that was my mildly built DD. Had OME suspension, axle swap, rear disc conversion, intake swap, yada, yada, yada. Bought an '88 MJ for a wheeling truck, did a SOA conversion on that and had it rolling on 33's for awhile, but sold it because we needed the money. Ended up with a '99 TJ on 33's for my wifey, she'd always wanted one, so we bought one before we had kiddos.....so when the kiddos came, out went the TJ and in came the Subaru.

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Fast forward a bit, the kids and all our camping crap don't fit into the XJ any longer, so we sold that and started looking at Toyotas. Wound up with an '03 DC Tacoma that we still have, but is primarily the wife's kid hauling rig.

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So a few weeks ago, I ran across an ad in the local paper of all places (who reads the paper anymore? :confused: ) It read like this: 1999 4Runner, 215k miles, needs work $3500." So I called and asked her to expound on the "needs work" part. She said it needed brakes, a windshield, tires an alignment, and a few other odds and ends. I did some research, it also needed it's 2nd timing belt project. I asked her if I could stop by and look at it, so I did, and the For Sale sign she had in the window said $2500!? I called her back asked her about it, she said she figured it needed at least $1000 in work, so that was the price difference. I haggled her down a bit more because of the timing belt, and we had a deal! She took the cash and gave it to her bank for a deposit on her 2007 4Runner, and I drove our new 4Runner home for $2200!

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I like what I'm hearing so far. Looking forward to your build. I'm in the same situation as you pretty much. I think I have a pretty solid 4Runner for not a lot of coin. Check out my build thread.
 
I will do that! Where around Philly are you? We moved to Montana from just north of the city - Willow Grove/Abington area, but we were kind of all over Montgomery and Bucks counties. I miss a few things about being there..... not many though. Mostly just the cheese steaks :D
 
love the name man!! sounds all good and welcome to the crew. sounds like you have a handle on things at least. what do you have planned? :hungry:
 
No sh*t? I live in Glenside. Small world. How long were you in this area?

That's great! We bought our Subaru from Diamond Auto right there on the main drag. Great service department- I HIGHLY recommend them. Chris is the guy that runs the service crew, and he runs a tight ship. I was there from about '02-'07.
 
Ralph, owner of Diamond, is one of my best friends. They do my work when I don't do it myself.

My dad owns U-Save Auto Rental & The Carstore of Glenside, about 1 mile north of Diamond. My son goes to Copper Beach, right across the street from my dad's place. Very small world.
 
So after further looking...... here's my list of things that NEED to be done:

-Timing belt/water pump replace
-Tires - front two are pretty shot, rears are okay.....
-Because the inner tie rod ends are toast!
-Front brakes - pads and rotors
-E-brake
-Sway bar links and bushings
-Windshield
-Side mirror lenses are cracked
-Lower turn signals are cracked
-A can of Seafoam!
-Radio needs some help
-Tune up parts - plugs, wires, fuel filter
-And for crying out loud- Take off those running boards! :D

So I got to the really important things first

Running boards off! (The only pic I have so far with them off)

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I also picked up these off Craigslist:

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Which was a huge score- not so much on price, but there are sacrifices to living way out here in Montana. Craigslist isn't exactly a cultural phenomenon out here. You're almost as likely to find deals in the paper as on Craigslist. Anyways, I've been looking for tires for my Tacoma for more than six months and haven't found anything I'd buy in a 265/75/16. These came up and I talked to the guy about them- he bought a used Chebby from the dealer, and it had these tires on it. Turns out, the PO of the Chebby put these tires on right before he traded it in, they only have about 1200 miles on them. The catch was that these are the 10 ply, load range E tires. I wasn't sure what to think about the load range E, so I did some digging and reading here, over on Expedition Portal (where I also spend some time) and on a few google searches in FJ and Tacoma forums.

The result of my readings was this- the most opinionated people against E rated tires frequent this forum. I'm not joking either! I'll try to sum up some of what I read, though I'm sure I'll miss a few points. Load range E tires have a higher load rating because they are built to handle hauling and towing heavier loads. I know, it's difficult to understand.....

They aren't constructed the same because they're built to do different things. If you're towing a 4 ton trailer with an F250, you're likely going to want a different tire than you've got on your 4Runner. On the other hand, just because it's on your Ford, doesn't mean you CAN'T run it on your Toy. Full-size trucks run E rated tires in the range of 80 psi, which makes sense- you don't want a squishy tire when you're trying to maintain control of a large trailer. But there's no reason you need to run the same tires at the same pressure on a 4Runner.

I did run across some type of equation to calculate what tire pressure you should be running an E range tire at on a 4Runner, which I can't seem to find at the moment, but it put it in the 40-44psi range from what I remember.

The bottom line is this, and I wrote this in another thread on here- the "ride" of a tire is a VERY subjective thing. It's like asking somebody if something is "loud." You ask your mom and you ask your buddy- you'll have two very different answers. A lot of it depends on what you expect your truck to ride like. If you expect it to be like a Lexus, buy a Lexus. If you expect it to ride better than your old '87 Toy pickup, you'll likely be fine with E rated tires. It also depends a lot on the condition of your suspension- the newer and more tuned your suspension is, the less you'll notice the tire difference, just as you will notice road imperfections less. But if your suspension is shot, then no don't buy E rated tires and expect it to not be rough.
 
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So here's a bit of an update on progress.....

I dove into the timing belt project last weekend!

I followed these three writeups, all of which were helpful, along with my Haynes manual

Toyota Tacoma (1995-2004) 3.4L Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement | AutoDIYOnline

Toyota Maintenance: 3.4L V6 Timing Belt Replacement

http://www.nwtoys.com/forum/tech-article-submissions/1261-5vz-fe-timing-belt.html

All three articles are found HERE, along with many other tech articles- I think a slightly more complete list than is found at the top of the forum here.

Overall, it went as planned. I think it took me a total of about ten hours, give or take an hour or so, over the course of three nights. Here's some notes:
-I only made one "tool"- something to hold the crankshaft in place while I broke the nut loose. I purchased a piece of 3/16" x 2"w x 36"l flat steel and two 3/8" grade 8 bolts and four nuts to hold the crankshaft pulley. I then cut a hole in the center to allow my 1/2" drive socket to pass through the "tool." I allowed the tool to rest against the frame and broke the nut loose with a breaker bar and a pipe. This worked just fine for me, but my truck is not rusty at all.

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-I ended up "renting" a pulley-puller from O'Reilly's, I think it was a 2 ton puller, in order to remove the crank pulley. It wouldn't come off any other way.

-I probably should have used it on my water pump pulley, as I ended up putting a big dink in my radiator that wound up pissing on the floor when I went to refill it. I found a local radiator shop that was able to repair it for me, so I went that route instead of buying a new one.

-Should have pulled the grille off in order to get at the radiator bolts to remove the radiator first, that would have given me more room to work and probably saved the radiator.

-I did not buy or make the timing belt tensioner compressing tool. I almost ordered one, I almost had a friend make one for me, but I'm glad I didn't.

-No matter how you do the timing belt job, you WILL need to remove the tensioner to get the belt mounted. That means you will have to get at the two 12mm mounting bolts, which are a PITA to get at. Well, mostly just the rear bolt. I wound up sitting under the truck with my head about eye level with the crank so I could clearly see what I was doing, and using a 3/8" drive 12mm socket, followed by a universal swivel joint, then a few extensions, it worked about as good as I think anything would.

-I was not able to do this project without moving the crank or the camshafts, but resetting the timing was not difficult. I read elsewhere that the 3.4 is not an interference engine, so that would not create any issues. For those that don't know, that means that the valves and pistons will not interfere with one another if the timing is wrong. At no time can they come close enough to one another to create contact or damage. Which is a good thing, especially for mechanics like me.....

-Resetting the timing was fairly simple- it is easy to tell if you are right or wrong, there's not much of a gray area. I slid the crank pulley on and off a few times to ensure that the timing was right there, and held that position until I could mount the belt on the camshaft pulleys correctly. It took a few tries before I got everything right, but it worked just fine.

I purchased all of my parts from RockAuto Auto Parts
I highly recommend them, their service is good, shipping is quick, and prices are excellent.

I ordered:
Gates timing belt kit - TCK271 - $99
-Napa and O'Reilly's wanted over $200 for this same part from same manufacturer
-Included timing belt, idler pulleys no 1 and 2
Asin water pump - WPT100 - $52
-OEM water pump. Exactly the same as the Toyota part I removed except the spot where "TOYOTA" was cast into the body was ground off.
Stant thermostat - 14078 - $10

With shipping total was around $175, but I ordered some other odds and ends tune up parts along the way as well.

I chose not to do this project myself on my '03 Tacoma about a year ago, and in hindsight I wish I had done it. Having it done at the shop cost me about $550, so I saved about $300 after all was said and done. (The radiator repair cost me $60 for repair and steam cleaning.
 
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Did you get those tires on yet? I'm curious to hear what you think of them.

Nice score on the truck! Looks like a nice project.
 
Did you get those tires on yet? I'm curious to hear what you think of them.

Nice score on the truck! Looks like a nice project.

Thanks! I'm having a blast! I forgot how much I enjoy wrenching :D

No, not yet- I've been trying to get the stuff done that NEEDS to be done first, but believe me, I want to get them on. I'm trying to keep my maintenance budget in check so I have more to spend on goodies. I have a couple more steering parts to replace (sway bar links and bushings) before I can get a much needed alignment. I won't put the tires on before the alignment-

But I will be sure to post up what my thoughts are.
 
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Let’s see...... what else have I gotten done?

I did replace the inner tie rod ends- they were completely toast. The passenger’s side had about ⅛” play in and out, which translated to almost 1” of play at the wheel. It was a bit scary once I saw how much it moved when I had it up on the jack stands.


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I bought Moog parts from RockAuto. The inner tie rod ends ran me $41 each, and I had to replace one of the boots, which was $9. I did the whole works without removing the outer tie rod ends, which was nice. I did a rough alignment with a tape measure, so I know it's close, but I know I need an alignment bad. I need to replace the sway bar links and bushings first though.

I took the intake apart and cleaned that all up, after I ran seafoam through, probably should have cleaned some crap out first, but oh well. Idle ran high after seafoam, but it worked itself out over about 10-15 minutes of driving. Here’s how the throttle body looked:



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My idle seems to be a bit high again, between 1100-1200 in neutral. After doing some reading, looks like I need to clean out my IAC (idle air control) valve a little better. It was pretty gunked, and it’s hard to clean. A post I read recommended removing the intake tubing; then, with the engine running, spray some MAF cleaner into the small passage at the base of the throttle body. This will allow the engine to pull the cleaner through, and hopefully some of the gunk with it.

Did my plugs and wires while I had the intake out, plugs don’t look too bad, definitely worn though, which is good news I guess. Feels like it runs a bit smoother, but who knows.

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I also replaced my main throttle cable. The difference in the feel of the pedal between my T4R and my Taco was night and day. I was able to source a used one for $20 off of a low mileage T4R, so that’s what I swapped in. Made a HUGE difference. I still need to tighten some of the slop or play out of the cable, but it pulls WAY easier.

Here’s a pic of the pedal end of the cable. I found it a bit of a pain to do, mostly because it’s under the dash, but it was pretty easy. There’s only two bolts to remove for the mounting of the cable housing, but I also removed the gas pedal (2 more bolts) to make removing and replacing the cable from the pedal easier.

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Does anyone know if the front strut assembly from a 1st gen Tacoma will swap right into these 3rd gen T4R's? I have a line on a low mileage set of the yellow and blue Bilsteins that would be pretty cheap-
 
Good looking Runner! Also good that you're taking care of the maintenance too. Look forward to the progress.
 
So I met a local guy who buys, sells and parts out Toyotas! He specializes in 4Runners, Tacomas and 80 series Cruisers! I dropped by his shop- I had a hard time keeping from drooling...... over his 60 series diesel swap........ his 90 pickup on 37’s....... his 80 series on 35’s.......his 1986 1st gen 4Runner with EFI, 5spd and SR5 package......and those were just his personal rigs! Glad I made the connection though- he asked if my T4R had elocker, which it doesn’t, and he said he gets about 6-8 of them a year. I asked him how much- he said for the rear (drum to drum), wiring harness, and matching front diff (if it was different than mine) he’d do about $400!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So I actuallyI went over to look at some wheels, can’t wait to get rid of the ones I’ve got. I need to get my Duratrac’s mounted up on something worth mounting them on. I picked up a set of these from him for $300. They're the stock 80 series aluminum rims, and he gets them powdercoated locally. No centercaps, but I'm not too worried about that. This set he ran for a year or so on one of his rigs, but swapped for something different.

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Now that I have most of the maintenance stuff up to schedule, I’ll take it in for an alignment and get the tires mounted. Pics to come soon :D
 
Yes they are- they're in fantastic shape, considering he wheeled them a bunch of times. No rock rash, just some scraping on the very edge of the rim from mounting tires. Nothing a touch of spray won't cover. Or a sharpie for that matter. They are a bit dusty in the pic, but they'll shine nicely :D
 
where in Montana area you? guessing Missoula cuase I have heard there is a TOYO guy over there. but never met him.


Happy wrenching
 

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