A/C not blowing cold. Charged w/ All New Parts

[sam.basye]

Recently had the compressor take a dump so I replaced just about everything. All new oem Denso parts: Compressor, Condenser, Drier, Evaporator, Expansion valve, and Resistor.
Brought it to the dealer to have it leak tested and recharged. No leaks and it blew cool when I picked it up, but I didn’t think it was as cold as it should be.
I drove around for a week or so to make sure it wasn’t just me being weird and I’m now sure it’s not right.
I measured the temp on two difference days.
Full COLD Setting with Fan on HIGH and A/C button ON after 5 min of starting the car in the shade.
Outside 81°, center vent 65°
Outside 90°, center vent 74°

Blower motor works fine, fan is clean and clear, and the recirculation/outside air actuator/door works properly

The air blows strong and fan speed accordingly with the auto climate control, but it’s just not cold enough.

I can see bubbles in the drier sight glass while it’s running.


Any suggestions as to what’s causing the lack of cooling?

 

[jgue467]

Those numbers are way, way off. Vent temps s/b closer to 40-45, you s/b 'freezing' and want to turn down blower - mine numbs me with 'crotch' vent even on low after 20 mins when near 100 degrees here in Texas. There shouldn't be 'too' many bubbles when operating in hot temps after 5 mins, just a small stream, almost countable. Is that about the volume you see?

No a/c expert here but based on your info I would find someone who knows has /knows how to use a/c gauges. It's the only true way (not to mention safe) to know the condition the system is operating at. Then you'll know whether there is blockage, insufficient freon or whatever. Or if you have some confidence try one of those freon refill cans that come with a gauge, it will at least tell you if under/filled/over filled.

Guessing the space between the a/c condensor and radiator has been cleared of any debris? A/C depend on excellent air flow, this is one of the places is has ot be really good, the other being the evaporator.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. :cowboy:

 

[pluton]

No chance the dealer installed the wrong type of refrigerant?

 

[Bad Luck]

I can see bubbles in the drier sight glass while it’s running.

Your ac system is not fully charged. According to the FSM "A fully charged system is indicated by the sight glass being free of any bubbles." This is checked at around 1500 RPM's though not at idle.

 

[Bad Luck]

No chance the dealer installed the wrong type of refrigerant?

Different refrigerant systems have different fittings. There's no way to charge an r134a system with anything but r134a refrigerant.

 

[sam.basye]

Thanks guys!

The whole reason I brought it to the Dealer to recharge was so I didn’t screw it up. Lol

Here is what it looks like running, and with the compressor off (system on).

Looks frothy, like lots of fine bubbles whizzing by. Looks the same at 1500rpm, bubbles just whizz by a little faster.

Looks like clear water when off.

 

[absalom]

Charging your own AC with a vacuum pump and manifold gauge set is pretty simple and highly effective, just in case you’ve lost faith in outsourcing this job.

 

[96RedRunner]

Check out page AC-3 of FSM, your low on Freon if seeing bubbles. You should see no bubbles, just flow of liquid in site-glass.
Does your paperwork say how much Freon they put in ? 23-24 oz is what a empty system should have had put in.
I would take it back to place and say get it right, you should be seeing 38-42* air from duct.
What I get with replacing condensor and drier 24oz of freon.

 

[Brian.]

I agree with all the other sentiments that there's an incorrect amount of refrigerant.... I use the term "incorrect" because too MUCH will result in the same situation, where it just doesn't cool right. Not saying that's what you have right now, but something to be aware of (don't just dump in more, in other words ~ moar doesn't equal better).

This should all be tested and checked with a manifold gauge that gives high and low side pressures. While the sight-glass is good for spot checks, it's not enough to get the best result from your system.

 

[sam.basye]

Here’s the receipt receipt I got.

No specific amount of refrigerant listed.

I’ll be taking it back tomorrow or the next day to have them hopefully fix it. Lol

 

[vipergrhd]

Did you put oil in each individual parts or you just left it in the compressor? The dealer may have not put it in a vacuum long enough and also not enough refrigerant. In most cases you need to put the system under vacuum for a min of 30 min. but in your case since you did the install I would do it for at least 2-3 hours.

I just noticed that your receipt have extra charges, what exactly is a $32 expandable and $5 disposal fee? There was nothing to dispose off, all they did was recharge your system.

 

[samarinta3]

I have the same problem. I changed condenser and dryer receiver but still wasn't cold enough then changed my compressor and still the same. Now I'm changing my evaporator and expansion valve.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Did you put oil in each individual parts or you just left it in the compressor? The dealer may have not put it in a vacuum long enough and also not enough refrigerant. In most cases you need to put the system under vacuum for a min of 30 min. but in your case since you did the install I would do it for at least 2-3 hours.

I just noticed that your receipt have extra charges, what exactly is a $32 expandable and $5 disposal fee? There was nothing to dispose off, all they did was recharge your system.

That is why they call it the Stealership. Rags and soap get very costly there, to the tune of $32 for Snap On soap it looks like.

Looks to be undercharged.

 

[vipergrhd]

Stealership

Yeah I know, I was a dealership mechanic for 22 years before I went to fleet.If you let them get away with it they just keep robbing you.

 

[Brian.]

Ouch, for anyone reading this in the future, you can buy your own AC vacuum and gauges for ~$130 (looks like Most of them on Amazon are around there, some cheaper, some more expensive ~ more like $160 from Harbor Freight). Anytime I can buy tools for less than the cost of hiring someone, it's a win.

Anyway, no where did they list anything that indicates volume (weight) of charge. Good point about the oil above too, as too much there will also lower the cooling efficiency, but not THAT much.

 

[sam.basye]

Normally I’d do it myself, like I installed all the parts, but I wanted to make sure it was done correctly instead of me screwing around with an aerosol can like I’ve done unsuccessfully in the past. Lol

I figured I’d do it wrong and have to pay someone anyways, so I bit the bullet and dropped it off. Plus it was convenient. Ended up dropping it off while I was at work for the week.

I figured of all places, a Toyota dealer should know what it needs and have the least chance of screwing it up. Lol

I’ll definitely ask about some of the fees.

The only thing I did was install everything. I started to pour out the compressor oil to pour my own in, but decided it was full enough and they’d suck it all out anyways.

Just drove 3hrs to work with the air on cold full blast. Outside it was about 80° and sunny and it never got colder than room temp. Just cool enough to keep from sweating.

It should be an easy argument getting them to redo it all since there’s no info on what the did/ how much was put in.

 

[vipergrhd]

Oil clogging

Since now you admitted that you left all that oil in the compressor it is very possible you are partially clogging some parts of your condenser and evaporator causing your cooling efficiency. Most new compressor will come full of oil but it doesn't mean you leave it in there the best way is to empty it and just put back what is needed in most cases 2-3oz and same thing goes for all other individual parts.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If your system uses say 7oz of oil you can put it all in the compressor or in the test port and spin the compressor by hand a few times. The oil will go where it needs to go.

Get a suction gauge and put it on your low side test port and report the pressure with the air on max and all the windows down. Also report the ambient temp as well.

Did you replace the Schrader valves with everything else?

Edit: hold engine at 1500rpm to report your suction pressure not idle. It’s very important.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[S1996R]

Did you check the hot water shut off valve? Some times they need adjusted, even a little warm coolant will make it not cool. When it is running check the low pressure side the bigger of the two hoses and check if its very cold. Also check between the radiator and condenser for debris. We used a long blow gun with holes drilled on the side and blew dirt and leaves, this step was mandatory when dealing with servicing a/c systems. R134A has bubbles (cloudy) when full, R12 does not its clear when full.

 

[sam.basye]

Isn’t that the purpose of evacuating the system? To get everything out, then add new back in?
That was my rationale anyways.

They might have added more oil with the refrigerant that was already in there...
They didn’t ask when I dropped it off and I didn’t think anything of it.
Theres no indication on the receipt to what they added so I guess I’ll see what they say.


I’ll have to see if the hose is cold or not.

Whereabouts is the hot water valve?