A/C Refresh

[gizmopt2002]

So I've noticed that my A/C doesnt come out cold, only cool. We also have an Accord and a Celica and those come out ALOT colder that the 4Runner. What Gives? I got an A/C refill kit, and its already at 65 PSI which is like in the alert stage, so I know that R134a is very sensitive, so maybe its overfilled? Any insight would be great.

 

[toto]

See if the sight glass helps you troubleshoot it.
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26179

 

[greasefingers]

65 psi does seem way off to me. I would vent some down to 40 psi. You measure it when the compressor clutch is engaged. It will go much higher than 40 psi when the clutch is out however.

 

[gizmopt2002]

Well i had the car started, just didn't have the A/C on. lol :bonk: So then it was indeed low, so I filled it up but it still is cool?

 

[Bouncnb]

Just curious, what temperature do you have it set at? Also, do you have it on AUTO by chance? If it is on auto, try it without Auto on, and try it at different times of the day. ie. morning, afternoon and evening. Outside temp will affect it a bit.

 

[gizmopt2002]

LO, never on Auto. So I was checking the PSI today and it kept kicking on and off, and then I revved it up to 1,500 RPM and a puff of dust came from under the car.

 

[NCSCOTT]

LO, never on Auto. So I was checking the PSI today and it kept kicking on and off, and then I revved it up to 1,500 RPM and a puff of dust came from under the car.

I hate to tell you that more than likely it was not "Dust". It was more than likely the Refridgerant blowing out through a hose or connection. It can look like dust or smoke when at a high pressure and it blows out. Do you still have at least Cool air like before? The compressor is obviously working but it sounds like you could have a plugged dryer or a leak in the condensor or one of the hoses. The condensor is supseptible to damage since it usually sits up in front of the radiator and a rock can kick up and cause a leak. I suggest filling it and using a leak detector to find where it is leaking from. You can get those cans of refrigerant with glow in the dark dye and use a black light at night or use an electronic leak detector. You may be better off taking it to a quality AC shop if you do not have access to the proper tools. DO NOT VENT REFRIDGERANT to the AIR on purpose. There is a LARGE fine if anyone from the EPA were to find out and they pay people to turn other people in.

Good Luck

 

[gizmopt2002]

It's not like ill be in the Target parking lot doing this. It's in my garage, and I don't plan on releasing any. But even if I did who's gonna report me, my dog? Damn you Sadie!!! lol. Anyways, I'm thinking it's the Magnetic Clutch. I also filled more refrigerant in, and surprise now its blowing ALOT colder, but it kicks on and off, hence why I think it's the magnetic clutch.

 

[toto]

The A/C is supposed to kick on and off to some degree. You'll notice it sitting and waiting for a stop light. That's how it regulates the temperature of the system to keep it from freezing. I apologize, I'm a little fuzzy on the details. Years ago there was a valve that opened and closed to regulate the amount of refrigerant moving through the system to control the temperature, but now they've quit using the valve and the computer just turns the compressor on and off all the time.

 

[NCSCOTT]

The A/C is supposed to kick on and off to some degree. You'll notice it sitting and waiting for a stop light. That's how it regulates the temperature of the system to keep it from freezing. I apologize, I'm a little fuzzy on the details. Years ago there was a valve that opened and closed to regulate the amount of refrigerant moving through the system to control the temperature, but now they've quit using the valve and the computer just turns the compressor on and off all the time.

The valve you are Talking about is a metering device or a "TXV" Temperture controled expansion valve. It sits right before the evaporator coil and meters or limits the refridgerant flow into the coil. It causes the High pressure High temp liquid to change state to low pressure low temp liquid, some of it flashes over to a gas right at the valve or metering device, the majority changes state from a liquid to a gas in the "evaporator coil" under your dash. Then it absorbs the Heat from the air as it passes over the coil and removes moisture as a result also. Then it is piped back to the compressor as a low pressure low temp gas and the compressor turns it into a high temp high pressure gas and it is piped to the condensor where the High temp High pressure gas gives up its heat to the air passing through the coil as it is condensed back to a High temp High Pressure liquid. There is a dryer between the output of the condensor coil and the metering device. There is a sight glass just behind the bumper. If there are bubbles in the sight glass it can mean a few things. 1. low refrigerant charge, 2. a possible restriction i.e. plugged dryer or kinked line, or 3. air in the system. If you feel the dryer with your hand and it is cool or cold there is a restriction. If it is good and warm it is operating normally. The return line to the compressor should be cool or cold to touch. I hope this helps some.

Check out this sight. It may help also.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/ac.htm

 

[greasefingers]

Thanks for that Scott. That puts the cycle of the system in a way I that can understand it.:cheers: