A Technique To Help You Break Free Your Front Differential Drain Plug Without Stripping It

[mtbtim]

 

[JBurt]

That's a good tip. Way better than welding the allen socket in.

 

[mtbtim]

That's a good tip. Way better than welding the allen socket in.

Well yeah, way better than stripping it in the first place and having to do something like welding an allen socket onto the plug or taking a chisel and hammer to it to get it broken free.

 

[AuSeeker]

Well yeah, way better than stripping it in the first place and having to do something like welding an allen socket onto the plug or taking a chisel and hammer to it to get it broken free.

TIm,
Great video, this will benefit many once it gets spread around!!

I have read many people post having to remove the drain plug using the hammer and chisel after stripping it and I have always wonder how that could even work and now after watching your video I think the chisel is only getting it to turn after the hammer blows via the chisel broke the "seal"!

 

[fourwd1]

The impact of the hammer blows help loosen whatever bond (corrosion usually) has formed on the threads between the plug and the diff/trans/xfr case/etc. it is in.

Rotating the plug/nut/whatever counterclockwise while banging on it helps as well.

Some heat helps break the bond as well. Sometimes one method works better than another or several methods together. An impact gun rules as well.

 

[mtbtim]

The impact of the hammer blows help loosen whatever bond (corrosion usually) has formed on the threads between the plug and the diff/trans/xfr case/etc. it is in.

Rotating the plug/nut/whatever counterclockwise while banging on it helps as well.

Some heat helps break the bond as well. Sometimes one method works better than another or several methods together. An impact gun rules as well.

My goto technique used to be heat before I learned the hammer technique. For now on, I'll try the hammer first. If that doesn't work, I'll go to the butane torch.

 

[brillo_76]

I cant say i had a drain plug on either diffs stick. I had the front filler plug missed up and had to drive a torx ( I think T55 not 100% on the size )head into one to get a messed one out. However, best to just cleaned them out of dirt. Use 10 mm 1/2 drive socket tap completely in tight with a 1/2 breaker bar. What is messing them up is people not cleaning the bolt good enough or improper tools. As all of mine fleet people originally didn't change the valve covers or seals leaking oil which mostly have the front diff covered in oils. The rear are easy with a 6 point socket and impact they come right out. Very good to mention tapping the plugs with hammer. Heat is also a good method for stuck bolts. I have had success with heat and crayon wax if threads bonded. If using heat melt crayon wax into the thread or head surfaces. Really depends on how seized things are and the condition of things as to best methods.

 

[mtbtim]

I cant say i had a drain plug on either diffs stick. I had the front filler plug missed up and had to drive a torx ( I think T55 not 100% on the size )head into one to get a messed one out. However, best to just cleaned them out of dirt. Use 10 mm 1/2 drive socket tap completely in tight with a 1/2 breaker bar. What is messing them up is people not cleaning the bolt good enough or improper tools. As all of mine fleet people originally didn't change the valve covers or seals leaking oil which mostly have the front diff covered in oils. The rear are easy with a 6 point socket and impact they come right out. Very good to mention tapping the plugs with hammer. Heat is also a good method for stuck bolts. I have had success with heat and crayon wax if threads bonded. If using heat melt crayon wax into the thread or head surfaces. Really depends on how seized things are and the condition of things as to best methods.

From my experience with these front differential drain plugs, the cause of it ending up being stripped had nothing to do with an improper fitment of the allen socket because of dirt build-up inside the allen hole nor was it a case of using an improper tool. I would argue if you need to get onto that plug with a 1/2" breaker bar, your technique is flawed. Using too much force is how these plugs become stripped in the first place. These plugs should break free with a 3/8" or 1/2" normal length ratchet. If you have to break out the 2 foot breaker bar for the additional mechanical advantage, that's when bad things happen. This is why knowing the tricks to use to get the plug broken free easily are super helpful. With the hammer technique and/or using heat, nobody should end up with a stripped drain plug. And, the reason why these plugs gets locked up so badly has to do with that special copper drain plug washer. No other drain plug on these vehicles gets stuck like that one does because they are either use those cardboard type washers for the oil pan drain plugs or they use aluminum crush washers for the front diff drain plug, rear diff fill and drain plugs and transfer case fill and drain plugs that don't weld themselves to the face of the plug.

 

[brillo_76]

I just explained how I got them loose. With the T55 if messed up and if have to heat use wax to assist. In your opinion, this it has nothing to do with improper fitment. That is fine. I personally don't understand why you needed a video to explain just tap the head of the drain plug with a hammer. However, that is your choice to do so. I totally disagree with the copper being the source of them being stuck. as they used copper washer on all differential drain plugs way back without issues( 1970's and 1980 trucks diffs, transmissions and Transfer). They are getting stuck due to lack of proper gear grease change intervals or being way over tightened in the past. As I have seen this occur for over 35 years from previous owners neglect. The fill plugs are known to stick with that gasket washer not being copper as its steel or aluminum. If your theory was correct, the fill plug would never stick and I seen many of folks have just as much issues with them along with drain plug in the front differential is why I base the copper is probably not the only cause of this seizing of the plugs.

 

[mtbtim]

I just explained how I got them loose. With the T55 if messed up and if have to heat use wax to assist. In your opinion, this it has nothing to do with improper fitment. That is fine. I personally don't understand why you needed a video to explain just tap the head of the drain plug with a hammer. However, that is your choice to do so. I totally disagree with the copper being the source of them being stuck. as they used copper washer on all differential drain plugs way back without issues( 1970's and 1980 trucks diffs, transmissions and Transfer). They are getting stuck due to lack of proper gear grease change intervals or being way over tightened in the past. As I have seen this occur for over 35 years from previous owners neglect. The fill plugs are known to stick with that gasket washer not being copper as its steel or aluminum. If your theory was correct, the fill plug would never stick and I seen many of folks have just as much issues with them along with drain plug in the front differential is why I base the copper is probably not the only cause of this seizing of the plugs.

Because, by making a video and sharing it on YouTube, people can find the information easier. How many people am I going to reach by posting it on this forum as opposed to posting it on YouTube? I guarantee I'm reaching exponentially more people via YouTube than on this dying forum platform. The video is also to give people a live demonstration of how well the technique works. Saying something works is fine, but there's no proof. I show people how well it works so it takes away the ability of people to distrust it as being a legit technique to use.

I have personally tightened these drain plugs many times and I have never overtightened them. I tightened them with very little force with a 3/8" ratchet and after 30,000 miles, that drain plug ain't budging with the same 3/8" ratchet I tightened it with. I would go to a 1/2" drive ratchet and it would still not budge. After applying heat or using the hammer technique, the thing would break loose with ease. With the same tightening force applied with the 3/8" ratchet for the fill plugs, I have never had a fill plug fight me coming out. Same goes for the transfer case fill and drain plugs and the rear differential fill and drain plugs. I tighten them with similar force and I can always break them free without a fight. Hmmm, I wonder what the difference could be? Could it be the copper washer? Using basic logic and deductive reasoning, I would say my theory holds water. I remember those copper washers from way back when, and I don't remember them having quite the surface area contact that these drain plug washers have and that might be the difference.

So, if the plug is not getting stuck to the copper washer, what is causing all the resistance of it breaking free? Are you trying to say it's the male threads of the plug getting locked into the female threads of the differential? So, your theory is they get stuck because of time or being overtightened. Ok, you're entitled to your opinion, but I know 100% based off my experience you're dead wrong. The problem with the front differential drain plugs becoming impossibly stuck is well-documented. If you did social media, which I sort of doubt you do, you would see the numerous posts on Toyota Facebook groups of people talking about this issue. Almost nobody strips the fill plug, but tons of guys have stripped the drain plug.

Now remember what happened last time when you kept coming at me and I didn't back down. You quit the forum for a while, remember? So, if you don't like how the conversation is going, I suggest you disengage, because this is my thread and I ain't going anywhere. If you post again, you're gonna get a response, and it might not be to your liking.