It's been awhile, 5 years since it milkshaked. I actually didn't think it would last as long as it did, but I flushed it and the lines pretty good, new radiator, and about 5 gal. of ATF through it. The other day it started to slip bad. ATF smells like the cooking oil at a fast food joint and dark as night. Well, anyway I got 5 years out of her. I got some good metric crescent wrenches and a couple of screwdrivers so I figure along with those and some really bad words I can get this thing out and take it to a trans shop for a rebuild or exchange. Best price was 2K and I did all the heavy lifting. I'm seriously thinking about doing it myself. Found a kit that comes with a new TC for around 650 bucks that's supposedly high quality. Not an Ebay Chinese one. Even comes with a CD guide. How hard can it be? It's not a rocket ship. I watched someone on the Tube, but, well you know how that goes. I use to have a friend that worked at Toyota, but he moved away so no help there. Anyone here have any experience with rebuilding one of these? How did it go? I have all the time in the world (unless I die) so I can take it slow and and be extra careful. No, I'm not gonna buy a used junkyard one, do all the work only to find out it's junk. Any other suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks for your time.
A340F Finally gave up.Some advice needed
- Thread starter 4SKIN
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The cheapest way would to be getting a good used unit, u can drop the pan on a junk yard unit is check the fluid and then pull the valve body, that will tell u a lot if u have an idea of what ur doing. with all that said these r "easy" trans to rebuild and don't require a lot of specialty tools. I say "easy" as i don't know u ur anything about ur abilities.
Go slow, take a million pics, and keep ur reassembly area clean clean clean... do some reading up on transgo valve body kit, sonnax end plug kit, and if ur going to be in there put some good clutch packs... there r 2 company that offer upgrades ie extra clutches, TC. make sure u check the t case of burrs by running ur hand along the surface after u have it disassembled... and did i say keep ur area clean clean clean...
U can also upgrade ur front pump with 1 from a Lexus (google it a read up on which vehicles to pull said from. u get around a 23%ish increase with these pumps. sure im forgetting something but do a lot of research before u jump in
Go slow, take a million pics, and keep ur reassembly area clean clean clean... do some reading up on transgo valve body kit, sonnax end plug kit, and if ur going to be in there put some good clutch packs... there r 2 company that offer upgrades ie extra clutches, TC. make sure u check the t case of burrs by running ur hand along the surface after u have it disassembled... and did i say keep ur area clean clean clean...
U can also upgrade ur front pump with 1 from a Lexus (google it a read up on which vehicles to pull said from. u get around a 23%ish increase with these pumps. sure im forgetting something but do a lot of research before u jump in
RandyBobandy
New member
I say rebuild it, even if you don’t save any money in the end you end up with knowledge and tools you wouldn’t have otherwise, most of my mechanical ability came from attempting projects way above my skill level and just figuring it out.
Another benefit is you will probably be more meticulous than the transmission shop employee who makes $10 an hour and rails a line of white lightning before heading to work
Another benefit is you will probably be more meticulous than the transmission shop employee who makes $10 an hour and rails a line of white lightning before heading to work
Thanks everyone for your response. I think I'm gonna order the kit and rebuild it. It can't be as hard as a collage calculus test. From what I've seen getting it in and out is the hardest part. Replaced a ton of clutches, but I've never worked on a automatic before. Called a friend of mine who owned a shop that worked on big Allison transmissions. He said it's basically the same, only smaller. If I get into trouble he will help me out, and he has a trany jack I can use. If I buy him enough beer I might even get me to help pull it out. I'm done with floor jacks and pieces of wood like when I was a kid. I think the major thing is to take it slow and keep everything in order. Thanks again. I'll keep you posted.
The days of the dust are long behind me. God I miss the 80's sometimes. I will make an extra effort to keep it clean and well lubricated. That kinda applies to alot of things in life.
heat
Member
I rebuilt a few Ford autoboxes in my garage, so I'm speaking from that
perspective, if something I say doesn't cross over... It's one of the reasons
I've stuck with Toyota- I got tired of fixing the things.
Get an ATSG repair manual, if they make one, or something like it. Follow
the steps religiously. I assume Toyota makes a manual, but I haven't seen it.
I rebuilt the valve body on one of my jobs. It's almost worth it to buy one
rebuilt vs going through the hassle yourself.
I used two Harbor Freight engine stands so I could rotisserie the case. Much
easier than table-top.
Likely you'll need some special tools. I was able to make what I needed,
aside from micrometers and a press. Buying a core might be required. I
needed an inner bearing support that had to be cut up for spacing and
alignment.
Prepare to bathe in ATF whenever you work on it. It's just inevitable.
And, like you said, take it slow. Good luck!
perspective, if something I say doesn't cross over... It's one of the reasons
I've stuck with Toyota- I got tired of fixing the things.
Get an ATSG repair manual, if they make one, or something like it. Follow
the steps religiously. I assume Toyota makes a manual, but I haven't seen it.
I rebuilt the valve body on one of my jobs. It's almost worth it to buy one
rebuilt vs going through the hassle yourself.
I used two Harbor Freight engine stands so I could rotisserie the case. Much
easier than table-top.
Likely you'll need some special tools. I was able to make what I needed,
aside from micrometers and a press. Buying a core might be required. I
needed an inner bearing support that had to be cut up for spacing and
alignment.
Prepare to bathe in ATF whenever you work on it. It's just inevitable.
And, like you said, take it slow. Good luck!
19963.4lsr5
New member
Within the last 12 months my one 4 wheel drive magazine had a rebuild of the AW4/A340.
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So does this mean that if my transmission were to give out I could use one from an XJ? There are a whole lot more of those at my local UPullandPay than there are 4runners.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Looks like you are set on the rebuild option but I'd go used off a wrecker personally. Except for the pink milkshake these transmissions are solid. You didn't say but 2WD ones can be had for $250, 4WD are a lot more desirable though and can be up to $500. Try Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, it's a database of salvage yards and it's helped me in the past.
The hardest part is disconnecting it from the engine. I highly recommend a good set of wobble socket extensions and u-joints in 3/8 or 1/2 drive, whatever your favorite is. Also a good sized breaker bar of at least 2' or some good air or battery impact guns. Those bolts, especially the one at the 12 o'clock position are very hard to get to. The wiring harness is equally as difficult as the plugs like to seize up after 20 years of road grime and water on them. Get ready for a fight but go slow and it can be done.
If you have a 1996-2000 don't forget to disconnect the kick-down cable before you try and yank it off. You can disconnect it from the valve body or just undo the whole cable and pull it out with you. Just beware the plastic base where it enters the casing likes to break. Can you tell I've done this a few times? Feel free to PM me about it. Also, I think Timmy the Toolman has a video on a transmission removal too.
The hardest part is disconnecting it from the engine. I highly recommend a good set of wobble socket extensions and u-joints in 3/8 or 1/2 drive, whatever your favorite is. Also a good sized breaker bar of at least 2' or some good air or battery impact guns. Those bolts, especially the one at the 12 o'clock position are very hard to get to. The wiring harness is equally as difficult as the plugs like to seize up after 20 years of road grime and water on them. Get ready for a fight but go slow and it can be done.
If you have a 1996-2000 don't forget to disconnect the kick-down cable before you try and yank it off. You can disconnect it from the valve body or just undo the whole cable and pull it out with you. Just beware the plastic base where it enters the casing likes to break. Can you tell I've done this a few times? Feel free to PM me about it. Also, I think Timmy the Toolman has a video on a transmission removal too.
19963.4lsr5
New member
Wobble sockets or the ball adapter. I used both for those bellhousing bolts. And around 3 to 4 foot of extensions.
There is a picture in my Build and Repair thread of what’s required to get the bellhousing bolts off.
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Different bell housing, gearing, output shaft, transfer case pattern, etc. In other words "no".
phattyduck
Elite Member
Like this, taken from behind the gas tank crossmember when we did my trans:
-Charlie
