A340H need to disconnect f drive shaft?

silliam

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Need to replace solenoids in 93 4wd 3vze. Done previously in a 2wd and solved all my shift/lock-up problems. Can I get the transmission pan out without disconnecting front shaft? Hoping to do in driveway before lunch tomorrow, looks like clearance is tight, but possible, or no?
 
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Need to replace solenoids in 93 4wd 3vze. Done previously in a 2wd and solved all my shift/lock-up problems. Can I get the transmission pan out without disconnecting front shaft? Hoping to do in driveway before lunch tomorrow, looks like clearance is tight, but possible, or no?
uploadfromtaptalk1439953302187.jpg

So just in case anyone is wondering yes, yes you can, however my shift and lock up problems are not solved [emoji22] [emoji21]
 

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Hey silliam, Thanks for info and photo. Any tip or trick to it, such as move pan in a certain direction?
Before breaking any bolts loose make sure you can get to each one of the 19. Most are easy but the drive shaft does get in the way and the 3 on the long side of pan closest to driveshaft were the hardest to get to the first or second from the end is the real ***** to get at, can't remember which but you'll find it. I used a 1/4 in wobble as the angle prevents straight short drive and the pan lip rules out wrench (didn't have offset). I pulled the top half of the atf filler tube from above (requires air box removal), since you can't pull the pan straight down, and need to kinda tilt and wiggle the pan out. Don't forget the mounting bolt for lower half of fill tube. After draining there's still a 1/2 qt or so of fluid in pan so I poured that out by dropping the corner opposite the drive shaft. Then pushed that side up and let bottom of pan rest on drive shaft and carefully ease sideways and let it kind of slide down the curve of drive shaft to get the tight corner to clear drive shaft.. Can't see anything up in there, but once you have the pan free you can very carefully move it around to figure out exactly where the valve body edges are. Install is just the opposite with the main concern being getting over the shaft and under the valve body before worrying about anything else lining up. Hope that helps. Are you replacing solenoids?
 
Before breaking any bolts loose make sure you can get to each one of the 19. Most are easy but the drive shaft does get in the way and the 3 on the long side of pan closest to driveshaft were the hardest to get to the first or second from the end is the real ***** to get at, can't remember which but you'll find it. I used a 1/4 in wobble as the angle prevents straight short drive and the pan lip rules out wrench (didn't have offset). I pulled the top half of the atf filler tube from above (requires air box removal), since you can't pull the pan straight down, and need to kinda tilt and wiggle the pan out. Don't forget the mounting bolt for lower half of fill tube. After draining there's still a 1/2 qt or so of fluid in pan so I poured that out by dropping the corner opposite the drive shaft. Then pushed that side up and let bottom of pan rest on drive shaft and carefully ease sideways and let it kind of slide down the curve of drive shaft to get the tight corner to clear drive shaft.. Can't see anything up in there, but once you have the pan free you can very carefully move it around to figure out exactly where the valve body edges are. Install is just the opposite with the main concern being getting over the shaft and under the valve body before worrying about anything else lining up. Hope that helps. Are you replacing solenoids?
Thanks for the reply. No solenoid replacement, just do a drain and fill and new pan gasket. This is good info.
 
Just completed this solenoid replacement, filter, fluid change. Thought it would fix my shifting issue. Did you get the shifting and lock up problem resolved?
 

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