About to become a new 4runner owner....but

[thegipper]

Trust me people, I understand the importance and the consequences of a ball joint breaking! There is currently nothing wrong with them and show no signs of wear. They will be addressed promptly if need be.

And Shooter, when I was saying "what is the big deal about ball joints" it wasn't because I don't know what happens if they break, it's whats the big deal even if I have to replace them? I've replaced plenty of ball joints and unless these are some magically special ball joints, they are not expensive at all.

As for the fluids, yes about $100 give or take. I will not be using any premium fluids. Also, I finally got the pictures of it and I'm going to post them up here soon. It has 204k miles on it, not 300k.

 

[thegipper]

Ok here are the pictures. My brother said there is a fair amount of surface rust, but nothing even remotely major or comprising of the frame or other components. The worst area is where the running boards were on the drivers side (as seen in one of the pictures). I would probably fix that but there really isn't any other rust on the rest of the body.

 

[AntleredRuin]

There is currently nothing wrong with them and show no signs of wear. They will be addressed promptly if need be.

I think people are making a big deal out of it because OEM 3rd Gen T4Rs ball joints are known to give out completely unexpectedly, even if they look to be in great condition. More of a 'replace every 150k, regardless of how pretty and perfect they look' part. You will be lucky to notice one going bad 'promptly' enough to fix it in time. You're more likely to notice when it breaks with you going 70 down the highway.

Also, did the PO throw in a bypass tranny cooler, or just flush the tranny, new radiator, etc? If he didn't bypass it, the Pink Milkshake could happen again.

Spark plugs and wires, OEM.

Was the coolant used on the new radiator Toyota Red, not some green aftermarket brand?

 

[thegipper]

I think people are making a big deal out of it because OEM 3rd Gen T4Rs ball joints are known to give out completely unexpectedly, even if they look to be in great condition. More of a 'replace every 150k, regardless of how pretty and perfect they look' part. You will be lucky to notice one going bad 'promptly' enough to fix it in time. You're more likely to notice when it breaks with you going 70 down the highway.

Also, did the PO throw in a bypass tranny cooler, or just flush the tranny, new radiator, etc? If he didn't bypass it, the Pink Milkshake could happen again.

Spark plugs and wires, OEM.

Was the coolant used on the new radiator Toyota Red, not some green aftermarket brand?

The previous owner is my brother, who actually still has it. The radiator was replaced with a brand new one. Not sure what type of coolant he used though.

My plan would be to install an external tranny cooler just to be on the safe side.

And I understand about the ball joints, I did not know that they can just break without any warning (noise, clunks, ect). This would be the first time I've heard that on any vehicle. If that truly is the case, then I would just install all new ones.

 

[giovannie23]

The previous owner is my brother, who actually still has it. The radiator was replaced with a brand new one. Not sure what type of coolant he used though.

My plan would be to install an external tranny cooler just to be on the safe side.

And I understand about the ball joints, I did not know that they can just break without any warning (noise, clunks, ect). This would be the first time I've heard that on any vehicle. If that truly is the case, then I would just install all new ones.

It's just the lower ball joints you gotta be careful with
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/88252-new-twist-lower-ball-joint-failure.html
Check out the damage it can do
As far as tranny coolers go that would be one of the first things to be installed
And if you get it from jet.com you get 15 percent off
Just a heads up brother

 

[thegipper]

Ok I'm sold. I'll replace the LBJ's right away when I get it. It will be about 180 bucks for oem toyota ones from Amazon. I checked some of the other toyota parts sites but after shipping, amazon seemed to be the cheapest.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Rust looks bad but not awful I guess. Has the timing belt been replaced?

No matter how much you calculate it to cost to fix, there will always be more.

 

[thegipper]

Yeah I know how that works. There is always more but even if it's 3k for shipping plus a ton of new parts, that's seems like a pretty good deal to me.

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

Rust looks bad but not awful I guess. Has the timing belt been replaced?

No matter how much you calculate it to cost to fix, there will always be more.

I agree with this. This isn't a case of just surface rust. It also isn't the worst I have seen. I have seen frames with holes in them from rust. It's not a deal-killer but, if I were paying $2000+ and wanted a vehicle that would last for many years, I would have some concerns and some plans for repairs.

Definitely put LBJs, transmission cooler/bypass, and safety items as top priority (suspension, steering, tires, etc.). It sounds like you are doing a lot of research and getting good information in threads like this. One of the expensive fixes that can actually be put off for a while is the timing belt. Around 100,000 miles, take the cover off to verify its condition, but... it is a non-interference engine in the case that it fails, and it is known for lasting far beyond its rated life-span. Some have gone to 200,000 and 250,000 on the factory timing belt (recommended change interval is 90,000 for most years).

We all want to know how the deal is coming along, and we want pictures when you take delivery Good luck!

 

[thegipper]

I trust my brother, he is no fool. The rust is just surface rust and nothing structurally is compromised. My current ZJ jeep has 10x the rust this does and is still holding together. Again, the intention of this vehicle isn't a DD or a restoration project, it's a "up north beater with a heater" if you're catching my drift...

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

I trust my brother, he is no fool. The rust is just surface rust and nothing structurally is compromised. My current ZJ jeep has 10x the rust this does and is still holding together. Again, the intention of this vehicle isn't a DD or a restoration project, it's a "up north beater with a heater" if you're catching my drift...

I'm not trying to call you out and certainly not calling anyone a fool. This, however, is more than surface rust. I'm sure it is solid if your brother says it is. I'm only trying to point out what I am seeing; please take no offense

*Edit* It looks like it would be great for your purposes, and like it would last a long time with the maintenance you are planning.

 

[thegipper]

My brother inspected the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and water pump when he had it apart and they all looked perfect. Even if I had to replace those items, not a problem and a few hundred dollars and parts. Not a deal breaker at all.
The biggest factor is literally getting it for free minus 1k in shipping. That leaves a lot of room for parts, upgrades, maintenance and other goodies all which I am fully capable of doing.
Plus having no time line to work on.

 

[thegipper]

I hear ya, but the picture you are referencing is not a "structural" component at all. This is a body issue which, frankly I could care less about. Again, because the purpose of the vehicle. I also work at a metal manufacturing company with access to lasers, press brakes and certified welders.

If I saw serious rust that compromised the integrity of the frame or any other component it would be a different story.

Thanks

 

[ShooterMcGavin]

My brother inspected the timing belt, pulleys, tensioner and water pump when he had it apart and they all looked perfect. Even if I had to replace those items, not a problem and a few hundred dollars and parts. Not a deal breaker at all.
The biggest factor is literally getting it for free minus 1k in shipping. That leaves a lot of room for parts, upgrades, maintenance and other goodies all which I am fully capable of doing.
Plus having no time line to work on.

Oh, I should add a big caveat to my words of either caution or value assessment... I have been approaching this acquisition as if I were "buying" from an unknown seller, who may be dishonest and have things to hide. That isn't your situation. Since this is from your brother, you can take a lot of the "be careful" implications out of my comments. I'd rest easy with a little rust underneath, knowing that a reliable guy has inspected the timing belt, other belts, etc. Go for it ...and then let us see pictures on what you do!

 

[thegipper]

Absolutely man! You will be seeing this thing getting plenty of love!

I'll be sure to keep everyone posted. I'm excited for the work/challenge that is to come. A 3rd Gen 4runner resto/project with a base price of 1k? What's not to love?

 

[thegipper]

Well the time has come. I have arranged to have it shipped out using uship. Unfortunately putting up for auction didn't result in any lower price but it will be shipped from my brothers door to mine for $1069. That is about what I expected to pay so thats fine.

It is getting picked up tomorrow and should be at my door some time in the middle of next week.

Once I get the title transferred and put some plates on it, the work begins. I think I am going to get the exhaust fixed first. There is a really good exhaust guy in town here who should be able to weld a complete exhaust on (cat back) for relatively cheap. I'm not looking for anything fancy, just something that will last a long time.

After that, will be the LBJ's based on what I've read on here. I'll buy the Toyota ones and just be done with it. Next up will probably be the suspension. Next will be tranny, differential, transfer case, brake and power steering fluid changes.

It needs new struts in the front and new coils/struts in the rear. He did say it sags in the back. I have read a TON of information about it on here but I'm going to ask anyway. I have no intention of building this into an "off road" rock crawler or anything, it will see dirt on a groomed trail, that's it. I was thinking of buying some decent struts for front and back (KYB gas adjusts or monomax?). Again, I don't want to spend a fortune. I just want to decent suspension front to back that will last. I know the rear springs tend to get worn so I was thinking of just buying some moog springs for the rear. I'm assuming the front are fine but should I replace those too? I also figured if the rear sag eventually even after the moog springs, I could just install the airlift kit in the rear and that should solve the sagging problem correct?

Or, is there any strut/coil combo's that are sold ready to install that are recommended?

There are other things to do (eventually an external tranny cooler, radiator is brand new for now though) but I think I'll start here. Eventually address the rust (grind away, use rust stop and apply bed liner to rocker area where there is some surface rust) in the areas that need it.

Lots to do, lots to spend. I'm not looking to "restore" this 4R but make it a usefully and reliable tool to replace my Jeep that needs to retire.

Stay tuned!

 

[Dephcon]

If your not planning on going wild on the lift and will be doing some basic "groomed" off-roading, look into the 99 Highlander coils. From everything I have heard, they lift the truck up about an inch over regular stock height and you retain your factory cushy ride. I can't imaging them being that expensive either since their not an "aftermarket" upgrade.

 

[thegipper]

So buy 99 coils for the front and back? Pair them with the KYB gas adjust shocks?

 

[JayRolla]

I would pair them with Tundra Bilsteins 5100's because they are adjustable and you can get more lift out of the 99 coils.

 

[thegipper]

I like the idea but aren't we getting pretty expensive though?