ABS issue after lift and tires

[Doc3g]

Sorry if this has already been asked, but the search function won't let me search for "ABS" by itself and I couldn't find anything in the FAQ's about this, so here goes:

I had a Toytech Alumaseries 3" lift installed and 285/75 R17 KM3's on Fuel 17x8.5 rims (D557's). The truck drives and rides good but now every time I come to a stop the truck does a little abs "burp" like I'm sliding on ice. I've rarely had occasion for the ABS to engage prior to this.

So, my question is, is this common and if so, how do I correct it?

 

[BackOff]

On the 4th gen you really need to do a ZPC if you mess with the suspension.
You are basically changing the angle of the body after lift.
Computer needs to learn new current state of the t4r.

Maybe similar with the 3rd gens?

 

[biggestmexi]

recently did a lift and did not have to mess with the wheel speed sensors or anything.

Check your wire to the speed sensors or check the ABS Codes

• 
  Find the "DIAGNOSTICS" connector that's on the drivers side of the engine, on the high edge of the intake plenum.

• In the lower left of the inside of the "DIAGNOSTICS" connector, you'll find a small plug that pulls out. That's a "shorting pin", remove it from the spot.

• Now use a piece of wire to jumper from E1 to Tc. (connecting the contacts)

• Go into the truck and turn the key forward to ACC mode.

• Watch and count the blinks of the (ABS) light.

• With the light blinking, it will blink a number of times and then short pause then blink again. This will give you the 2 digit code. Wait for the code twice as you might have more than one code. a Long pause between numbers means it is another code.

Below are the codes:

Then you can start from there.

Hopefully the edit will clear it up better.

 

[Doc3g]

Thanks, I read some other posts about this as well, but there doesn't seem to be a write up that I can find on how to do it. Am I just missing it or does it not exist?

 

[Skulking]

Thanks, I read some other posts about this as well, but there doesn't seem to be a write up that I can find on how to do it. Am I just missing it or does it not exist?

Do you have specific question about the procedure posted above? There isn't really anything more to it than what was spelled out above. I did a quick search and found this not great video which should show you how simple it is.

 

[Doc3g]

Do you have specific question about the procedure posted above? There isn't really anything more to it than what was spelled out above. I did a quick search and found this not great video which should show you how simple it is.

Thanks for the video. I guess I thought the troubleshooting was indicated if the abs light was on (and mine is not), whereas the ZPC was like resetting the sensors so that they could relearn when to apply the abs (and I am assuming that the ZPC is a separate procedure compared to the troubleshooting jumpering in the video)?

 

[TravThePro]

I unplugged my abs after it nearly killed me twice up in the mountains. I would suggest considering this if you have an early model 3rd gen. Good luck, I hope your solution isn't too expensive.

 

[Skulking]

Thanks for the video. I guess I thought the troubleshooting was indicated if the abs light was on (and mine is not), whereas the ZPC was like resetting the sensors so that they could relearn when to apply the abs (and I am assuming that the ZPC is a separate procedure compared to the troubleshooting jumpering in the video)?

I didn't realize you were asking about ZPC rather than the ABS light. I've never needed to deal with a ZPC for my 4runner. I don't know what year yours is, but I did find this thread with instructions which seems to cover the 01/02.

 

[BackOff]

The 4th gens seem to be hyper sensitive to body angle change, front rake.
Thats why i mentioned it.
I have never had my hands on a 3rd gen, sorry i dont know the procedure.

I just do a ZPC when ever i mess with the suspension anymore.
Cheap and easy to diy.
I get sick of that trac control nanny yelling at me.

 

[gamefreakgc]

OP, what year is your 4Runner? 96-00 have a very simple ABS system. It's a set of "gears" with magnetic pickup sensors, one for each wheel, sensor wires, and an ECU. If you are having trouble with the system and you just put a 3" lift on, I'm going to guess those ABS wires are stretched too far or one has torn. You'll need to find a way to loosen the sensor and wiring and replace any that are damaged.

Be prepared to replace your suspension and steering components a lot more often. Inner tie rods don't like big lifts and will wear out prematurely.

 

[Doc3g]

OP, what year is your 4Runner? 96-00 have a very simple ABS system. It's a set of "gears" with magnetic pickup sensors, one for each wheel, sensor wires, and an ECU. If you are having trouble with the system and you just put a 3" lift on, I'm going to guess those ABS wires are stretched too far or one has torn. You'll need to find a way to loosen the sensor and wiring and replace any that are damaged.

Be prepared to replace your suspension and steering components a lot more often. Inner tie rods don't like big lifts and will wear out prematurely.

It's a 99. Will the ABS stay the same if I do the tundra brake rod? I've always hated the stoke brakes.

 

[gamefreakgc]

It's a 99. Will the ABS stay the same if I do the tundra brake rod? I've always hated the stoke brakes.

In my experience, it gets better. I had several times where my ABS would lock up in rainy weather prior to doing the Tundra brake swap. Afterwards it never kicks on in the rain. The TBU is not a guarantee to improve the ABS system though, it only helps since you'll need less pedal pressure to achieve the same stopping power if done right with quality rotors and pads. Having a good pair of all weather tires goes a long way too. Dedicated snow or mud tires with aggressive treads will also set off the ABS sensors more since there's less rubber contacting the road, increasing the chance of wheel slip.

 

[jkoni426]

The truck drives and rides good but now every time I come to a stop the truck does a little abs "burp" like I'm sliding on ice. I've rarely had occasion for the ABS to engage prior to this.

So, my question is, is this common and if so, how do I correct it?

Dealing with this right now after an upper ball joint and cv axle replacement. I had to pull the speed sensors so I could remove the knuckle to press the new ball joints in. The driver side speed sensor was pretty rusted into the knuckle. I had to do a lot of twisting and pulling to get it out, and the inside of the bore or whatever was pretty rusted also. Based on my research, I'm hoping a little better cleaning of the rusted surface the sensor sits on will fix it.

 

[Doc3g]

In my experience, it gets better. I had several times where my ABS would lock up in rainy weather prior to doing the Tundra brake swap. Afterwards it never kicks on in the rain. The TBU is not a guarantee to improve the ABS system though, it only helps since you'll need less pedal pressure to achieve the same stopping power if done right with quality rotors and pads. Having a good pair of all weather tires goes a long way too. Dedicated snow or mud tires with aggressive treads will also set off the ABS sensors more since there's less rubber contacting the road, increasing the chance of wheel slip.

OK, I have BFG KM3's on there, so they are pretty aggressive.

Dealing with this right now after an upper ball joint and cv axle replacement. I had to pull the speed sensors so I could remove the knuckle to press the new ball joints in. The driver side speed sensor was pretty rusted into the knuckle. I had to do a lot of twisting and pulling to get it out, and the inside of the bore or whatever was pretty rusted also. Based on my research, I'm hoping a little better cleaning of the rusted surface the sensor sits on will fix it.

That's good to know, keep me updated if it fixes the problem, maybe I'll just look into replacing mine, they are 21 years old with 300K miles on them.

 

[jkoni426]

Ok I think I fixed mine and it was stupid easy... apparently the torque on the speed sensor bolt is pretty important. I didn't torque these when I reinstalled them, and decided to go out and torque them to spec of 71-in pounds. The driver side was close but the passenger was fairly loose. After torquing no more abs engagement when coming to a stop at slow speed.

 

[Doc3g]

Ok I think I fixed mine and it was stupid easy... apparently the torque on the speed sensor bolt is pretty important. I didn't torque these when I reinstalled them, and decided to go out and torque them to spec of 71-in pounds. The driver side was close but the passenger was fairly loose. After torquing no more abs engagement when coming to a stop at slow speed.

OK, I'll give that a try. I need to figure out where they are, if you have a pic or diagram, would you mind dropping it here?

Relatedly, I took it for an alignment on Thursday and when they test drove it they noticed the abs trying to engage at slow speed stops and said that at a quick glance, it appeared that the abs wasn't communicating with the abs unit, which they thought was odd, but the shop was swamped and didn't have time to investigate it any further that day.

 

[biggestmexi]

OK, I'll give that a try. I need to figure out where they are, if you have a pic or diagram, would you mind dropping it here?

Relatedly, I took it for an alignment on Thursday and when they test drove it they noticed the abs trying to engage at slow speed stops and said that at a quick glance, it appeared that the abs wasn't communicating with the abs unit, which they thought was odd, but the shop was swamped and didn't have time to investigate it any further that day.

The rear speed sensors are easy to see from underneath the rear of the truck. They are right on the inside behind the parking brake linkage. They are round plastic bits with a tab going to the middle of the truck and one bolt going into it. You can also follow those lines up to the top of the shock tower to make sure they are not nicked or anything. You can see it without lifting but lifting could help.