ABS / Proportioning valve Question

[SIN-Japan]

I have wanted to get rid of my ABS distribution block in the engine bay and switch the Proportioning valve to a non-abs setup.

Has anyone do this before? any write ups?
I have searched time and time again but have been unlucky so far.

I would like to get a Wilwood adjustable valve but not sure which of their many ones will work and what all is needed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[HiluxSurf SSR-G]

there are two types of master cylinders for the 1996-2000 4Runner. One is for those with ABS but without LSPV, the other is for those with ABS and LSPV. The non-ABS is similar to the second type. If you don't have the stock LSPV at the back, then you'll need to install one, replace/modify the lateral rod, and replace the master cylinder for one meant for LSPV-equipped 4Runners.

LSPV-equipped 4Runners have additional brake lines, to and from the LSPV and then back to the MC.

 

[turbo8]

Seems like you would only need 1 proportion valve for the rear. I used a Wilwood proportion valve in my old toy pickup prerunner. Even though I had the valve fully closed, I was still locking up the rear brakes before the front. The stock valve worked better.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

If you don't have the stock LSPV at the back, then you'll need to install one

Not if he uses a manual proportioning valve like he said he is planning on doing. In fact, lots of guys ditch the LSPV in favor of the manual valve.
Wish I could help more, but I think your best bet would be to find a non-ABS rig, and get the MC and front hardlines from that. The rear might be more of a PITA than it's worth to pull. I would probably just cut/flare the rear at the right length to plug right into your MC. Put the proportioning valve right up by the MC to make adjusting it simple.

 

[SIN-Japan]

Sorry for not adding more details to start with.
So I want to remove the ABS distro block to use that space on the wheel well for my ARB air compressor, and since I have had the ABS fuse pulled for over 2 years and never plan to go back.

I have heard that I could just order a 2nd Gen Proportioning valve and rebend and flare the lines to connect up to that new valve and all would be good. After hearing about the adjustable Wilwood valves I thought that would be nice to have that option but just don't know what to purchase for it to bolt up properly.

I am sorry I do not know what a LSPV is?

Here is a pic to help for a visual picture.
So the red circle is the ABS Distro block (not the correct name but that is what I keep calling it.)
The green circle is the Proportioning valve (I think that is correct).

Hope this helps explain a bit more of my above original post question for what I am trying to do.
Thanks All.

 

[Tyler James Inc]

The green is the brake master cylinder and reservoir. Since your ABS PUMP(circled in red) is right next to your master cylinder, you can plug the two front lines into a t, then into the master.
For the rear, you can plug the second line from your master cylinder into a Wilwood proportioning valve, then run one of the rear lines from the ABS pump off the outlet of the prop valve. Done. Easy.
If there are two lines running to the rear, you can eliminate one. There are a few different ways of doing it. I would have to be looking at your rig to know exactly what to do. Basically, you need one port from your MC to the front, and one to the rear. The front T's off to each side. The rear goes through the prop valve, back to the rear soft line, and T's on the axle housing itself to each side.
You don't know what the LSPV is? Did you Google that?

 

[SIN-Japan]

The green is the brake master cylinder and reservoir. Since your ABS PUMP(circled in red) is right next to your master cylinder, you can plug the two front lines into a t, then into the master.
For the rear, you can plug the second line from your master cylinder into a Wilwood proportioning valve, then run one of the rear lines from the ABS pump off the outlet of the prop valve. Done. Easy.
If there are two lines running to the rear, you can eliminate one. There are a few different ways of doing it. I would have to be looking at your rig to know exactly what to do. Basically, you need one port from your MC to the front, and one to the rear. The front T's off to each side. The rear goes through the prop valve, back to the rear soft line, and T's on the axle housing itself to each side.
You don't know what the LSPV is? Did you Google that?

There is only 1 line running to the rear which Ts at the rear axle.

Sorry I did not have the time when I posted to look up the LSPV, but I have now. No I do not have one that I have ever seen, I have been under the truck a lot in the last 2 years.
So you are saying that I do not need to change the Brake MC, only T the two front lines together and plum in the 1 rear line. Correct?

 

[Tyler James Inc]

There is only 1 line running to the rear which Ts at the rear axle.

Okay, perfect [emoji1360]

Sorry I did not have the time when I posted to look up the LSPV, but I have now.

I just didn't want to have to explain what it was; wasn't trying to be rude. I could be wrong, but I think only non-ABS rigs have them. I've never seen one on a 3rd gen, but my buddy got a '98 2WD automatic 4cyl rig that did have one.

So you are saying that I do not need to change the Brake MC, only T the two front lines together and plum in the 1 rear line. Correct?

Exactly! You do need a proportioning valve to limit pressure to the rear, but it's that simple. I don't see any reason to change the MC out, myself. Is there anything else coming off the MC besides the two hardlines? My VW has a switch on the MC that's part of the ABS system. I don't think the Toyotas have that, but even if they did, it doesn't affect ditching the ABS.