AC diagnosis

TN22Corps

New member
As Summer approaches, the need to fix my AC has never been more apparent.

My Chilton manual offers absolutely no guidance with Air Conditioning, except to "consult a professional."

So, on first glance I noticed the AC belt is missing. I've never personally replaced a belt.. is it just as easy as sliding it over the two pulley-looking wheels?

Runner blows air, just not cold air. Should I look to recharging the system afterwards?

Thanks for the help!
 
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Put a belt on it and see what happens.

One of these things will happen:

1. It will work
2. It will make a horrendous noise when you turn the ac on. If this is the case, then the ac compressor will need to be replaced.
3. Nothing happens. Then you have a leak and there is no freon in the system.
Inject it with some UV dye (leak detector) find the leak, fix and recharge.
4 Nothing happens and your system is full of freon. You have an electrical issue. High pressure switch, ac, clutch, broken wire, fuse, inside switch etc etc.
 
Well, compressor is shot

So, I hit up Ebay and found everything from used OEM, reman, to non-OEM new.

Addtionally, I'll also need to pick a drier and expansion valve... anything else?

Is there a complete write-up anyone could recommend?
 
You need professional help to repair/recharge the AC properly. If the compressor, or anything in the sealed system is bad, there are several processes, flushing, evacuating, recharging, that require special tools and knowledge. Can you install a compressor? Probably, and probably get some gas into the system, but it will not work right, and will fail again shortly. The belt is missing for a reason..
 
Well, compressor is shot

So, I hit up Ebay and found everything from used OEM, reman, to non-OEM new.

Addtionally, I'll also need to pick a drier and expansion valve... anything else?

Is there a complete write-up anyone could recommend?

You can be the first to do a write up.

I think fixing the AC system is easier then installing an E-locking differential.

I'll give you a write up.

Stuff you need. Air compressor to blow lines out. (you will want to blow the lines, evaporator and condenser if your ac compressor crapped out because it is possible that compressor sent pieces of debris into the AC system when it died) Remove compressor and drier. Pour ac flush into one of the ac lines and use compressed air to blow it threw the system. continue until no more flush come back out. It is easier if you break the system in to two parts -the condenser side and the evaporator side.

Buy and install AC compressor. Buy and install AC drier. The expansion valve is inside the dash board area. To replace, must pull fan motor out to get to valve. too much work. So skip replacing that unless it is absolutely necessary.

Fasten all the lines that you broke open making sure that you use new o-rings where ever you can.

Buy one 4oz can of oil charge and disagarge into the 4runner ac system.
buy 2 cans of freon (Walmart is the cheapest $6 per can)and charge the AC system up.

Feel the cool air as it breezes over you face...

If the AC does not work at this point then your evaporator valve has crapped out and now you need to the go through the hassle and replace it.

Mind you- That this is AC repair on a budget. You should have a vacuum pump to vacate the system of all of its moisture and you should have a set of AC gauges to read the pressures as you are filling the system with freon. It would have let you known if the expansion valve is working correctly or not.
 
I appreciate the information Singtoe! I'm leaning more towards having a pro do it. I was able to find all parts for $200 [2000 Taco compressor (with lifetime warranty, as long as I replace the receiver drier and expansion valve)].

Some things I can afford to take the time to tinker with, but we're having our first baby in June and the Alabama humidity is a b****.

First shop I asked quoted it at a 4 hour job.. I'd love to be a fly on the hood, lol.
 
AC Aren't the holy-grail in automobiles. It is pretty easy. Ebay has compressors for less then $50. I wouldn't worry about a warranty with a price point that low.

Buy a used compressor, a new drier and two cans of freon and see if you can do it yourself. You would have less than $80 invested.

If it fails, then when you take it to a professional, you would have already replaced the compressor making it that much cheaper.
 
Had a shop do the install, evac, and fill. 2 days later AC isn't blowing "ice" cold, it's more "breezy" than anything.

Thinking a leak or more freon topped off?
 
Had a shop do the install, evac, and fill. 2 days later AC isn't blowing "ice" cold, it's more "breezy" than anything.

Take it to a shop that actually specializes in Toyotas. If you paid a mechanic $200 and he didn't fix the problem then the last thing you should do is give him more money. My AC runs decent but where I live heat isn't a problem.
.
 
Had a shop do the install, evac, and fill. 2 days later AC isn't blowing "ice" cold, it's more "breezy" than anything.

Thinking a leak or more freon topped off?

If you took it to a shop, then they should have some type of warranty. Your AC worked for 2 days? If they injected it with a dye when they recharged with freon, then they should be able to spot a leak with UV light the moment you bring it back.

If you want to. You can take a squirt bottle full of soapy water and spray all the components (lines, condenser, hoses, drier, compressor) of the ac system. It will bubble up where the leak is. You should hurry up and do this before all the freon is out.
 
Took it back to the same shop yesterday and picked it back up same day.

They spotted the leak, a cracked "liquid line" aka refrigerant line from the receiver/drier to the radiator. Of course, they wanted $280 to fix it, quoting the line itself only available at a dealership for $120.

Now, this seems to be something more I could handle. I'm assuming the line is a pressurized line, so if all the pressure isn't out already when I go to take it off am I going to relieve the whole system and spray freon everywhere?

If so, can I cut off the pressure somewhere to minimize freon loss, replace then line, release freon flow, and top it off?
 

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That green stuff is the UV leak detector. With a leak that big, there is no more freon in your system. Just replace the line from one from a junk yard, bolt it on and put in 2 cans of freon and you should be all set.
 
Called around junk yards, they told me that AC lines on their vehicles are cut. So, the dealership can get one in a day for $66.

Did some poking around today and I pushed the pressure relief outlet, let's just say it's still charged still has liquid in it.
 

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If your ac doesn't work anymore, then you don't have enough freon to really matter. The AC system will function (although quite poorly) with as little as one can (12oz). If yours doesn't work any more then your have very little left in it.

Keep it sealed up until you get your new line. Once you get it, release the remaining amount by hand it will probably only last a few seconds. Remember that the system could equalize over night but when you run it, the condenser will get hot from the radiator and will increase the pressure in the ac system.
 
Okie doke, so I'm doing the AC work tomorrow.

I've got the new oem liquid line (+ o rings), a vacuum pump, recharging hoses/manifold, & compressor oil.

I've got the vacuuming down, what I'm wondering is how much compressor oil do I need to add? How can I check the level in the system, and from what I've read, when you vacuum the system not much oil is pulled out.

Also, when I'm recharging, I know the car should be running, AC engaged, but what pressures am I looking for on the gauges?
 
I do it very low tech. There is a sticker in the hood telling you how many Oz freon the system needs. If i remember, I think it is 28 oz. I would put in 2 - 12 oz cans and then a small 4 oz can of freon and oil charge.

There is residual oil in the system and the vacuum pump won't remove it. The 4 oz can will have a couple oz of oil and freon to top it off.

If you really want to know if you have enough freon, look at the sight class on the drier and see if you have any bubbles.

Too much freon is bad too. It is called flooding the system. Don't add any more the what the label says on the engine area says.
 
So, I got the new liquid line in, no problem. Hooked up vacuum pump to low and high, vacuumed down to 20 in Hg.

Now, my issue-

I closed all valves on the hoses and walk away for 5-10 minutes. There's a slight drop of about 2 in Hg when I come back to check. Is this acceptable? Can I continue and charge the system or should I be looking into finding a leak or running a leak seal through the system?

Thanks
 
So, I got the new liquid line in, no problem. Hooked up vacuum pump to low and high, vacuumed down to 20 in Hg.

Now, my issue-

I closed all valves on the hoses and walk away for 5-10 minutes. There's a slight drop of about 2 in Hg when I come back to check. Is this acceptable? Can I continue and charge the system or should I be looking into finding a leak or running a leak seal through the system?

Thanks

Could be leaking at the valves on your Manifold gauges.

Go ahead and pull a vacuum down to 29 inHg. for 30 minutes. Then let it sit. Overnight is good, If the the system still has a vacuum on in the morning, all is good. If it drops to 0, then you do have a leak somewhere.

Chances are, you fixed the leak, you probably solved all of your problems. Go ahead, pull a full vacuum for 30 minutes and go ahead and charge it up. Remember, use the soapy water spray bottle and spray down all the ac components after the first couple of oz of freon has been charged. If there is a leak, you will notice it now, before you completely charging the system up.
 

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