AC Questions

C

chadsy

New member
I recently discovered a leak from my AC Condenser right about where the horn is located. I have priced the Parts (Denso Condenser & Drier and a set of new orings) and had a few questions regarding the process.

Once I get the new parts installed:


  1. Since there's already a big gaping leak in the condenser, inst it safe to say all of the refrigerant is already gone?
  2. If this is the case, Will I still be required to pull a vacuum on the system? I'm fairly confident this is the only leak in the system. When I added freon to it previously the AC blew nice and cold until it had all spewed out from the condenser.
  3. Will be I able to charge it back up from a couple of cans of r134a?
  4. Do I need to add any oil back to the system? The Artice Freeze r134a says it contains oil but im not sure if it will be enough for the system.

Thanks everyone in advance for any advice you may be able to offer.
 
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I just did this on a '99 BMW 323i.(Kiddo hit a 'coon and cracked the condenser).

Singtoe's answers are (as usual) correct.

You need the vacuum to remove air and moisture from the system. If you just charge it with both in there, bad things will happen.

A pro will tell you the correct thing to do is recover all the oil in the system and recharge from scratch with both oil and R-134a. Or you can wing it and add an amount appropriate to the components you swapped. On the BMW, 2 oz. was suggested as appropriate for swapping condenser and receiver-drier.

I bought a vacuum pump (on sale) and a set of gauges from Harbor Freight. After changing the components with the extra oil added in, and replacing every O-ring forward of the firewall, I pulled the vacuum and verified system was leak-free. I purged the charging hose and added the exact amount of of R-134a called for. Three weeks now in high heat and the BMW cools better than the 4Runner ever did. You can DIY A/C systems, but you need the basic equipment (I spent ~$200 at HF) and you need to do your homework. I was not going to spend $1500 to have a shop do the A/C on a kid's college car worth about $2000. If I blew the thing up, he was just going to have to cook until he gets his own car. The risk of DIY was acceptable (it's a convertible, anyway).
 
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All the reading I did when I tore into my AC said that the oil will drop out of the refrigerant while the system is not running. So there are specific amounts of oil to add to each component when replacing them. I do not remember exactly what those amounts are.... Just off the top of my head it was something like .3 ounces to the drier and 2 ounces to the condenser. But I could also be way off so do some googling.

Also, I believe the 4runner system, when entirely empty, will take 2 full cans of refrigerant to be within the fully charged spec. There should be a sticker on the radiator support that tells you how many ounces to put in. Just match that to whats in the can and remember, the specs are by weight, not volume.

And a tip for charging the system... When you crack the can open and open the low side valve, put the can in a pan/bucket of warm water. You want the system to pull in vapors, not liquid. And as the can empties it will get very cold and the refrigerant will want to return to its liquid state. The warm water will keep the refrigerant in its gas state and will get pulled into the system easier and faster.
 
opie74 said:
All the reading I did when I tore into my AC said that the oil will drop out of the refrigerant while the system is not running. So there are specific amounts of oil to add to each component when replacing them. I do not remember exactly what those amounts are.... Just off the top of my head it was something like .3 ounces to the drier and 2 ounces to the condenser. But I could also be way off so do some googling.

Also, I believe the 4runner system, when entirely empty, will take 2 full cans of refrigerant to be within the fully charged spec. There should be a sticker on the radiator support that tells you how many ounces to put in. Just match that to whats in the can and remember, the specs are by weight, not volume.

And a tip for charging the system... When you crack the can open and open the low side valve, put the can in a pan/bucket of warm water. You want the system to pull in vapors, not liquid. And as the can empties it will get very cold and the refrigerant will want to return to its liquid state. The warm water will keep the refrigerant in its gas state and will get pulled into the system easier and faster.
Click to expand...

Thanks again.

The heat (humidity) here has been absolutely unbearable. Per my research I will need about 24 oz of r134a and 3 ounces if oil for the new components. I've found a vacuum pump & gauges at HF for about 175. I plan on knocking this out in the next weekend or so once I get the parts ordered. May revive this thread for more advice in the future.
 
chadsy said:
Thanks again.

The heat (humidity) here has been absolutely unbearable. Per my research I will need about 24 oz of r134a and 3 ounces if oil for the new components. I've found a vacuum pump & gauges at HF for about 175. I plan on knocking this out in the next weekend or so once I get the parts ordered. May revive this thread for more advice in the future.
Click to expand...

The HF gauges do not come with the can tap. About $6 at Pep Boys, AZ etc. You will need that. Don't forget you want to replace the O-rings.
 
Does the condenser come with a receiver/dryer? If not, you may need a new one due to the moisture contamination of the dessicant bag inside the receiver/dryer. Might save you some trouble down the road.
 
chimpy said:
Does the condenser come with a receiver/dryer? If not, you may need a new one due to the moisture contamination of the dessicant bag inside the receiver/dryer. Might save you some trouble down the road.
Click to expand...

I''m buying a new Denso Condenser (OEM) along with a new Dryer/Receiver by Four Seasons as well as O-rings. Definitely want to do it right the first time.

Durk/Slingtoe, My truck says to add in ND-OIL 8, but everything I've read says PAG 46 is compatible. Is this correct?
 
I think I have one more question ...

The sticker on the outside says for the r134a it takes 1.54 max to 1.32 min- pounds.

The average of the two is around 22.5 ounces, while I've read several posts on here from reputable posters saying that the capacity is 20 oz max.

Can anyone provide clarification?
 
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