Air Conditioning Recharge with FSM pics

[fourfive]

[MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] & [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] made a great video on the 3rd gen air conditioning system. It wasn't until watching their video a few times that I started to feel comfortable working on my own. I've used the cheap auto parts r134a cans with the included low pressure gauge a couple times on other vehicles before but wanted to learn how to properly work on my ac system especially since I live in Georgia.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?si=4QxBJxH42Bn2okSK&v=zlRE0Zeeyrc&feature=youtu.be


Tools/Parts:
1. Manifold gauges
2. Vacuum pump
3. Refrigerant can tap
4. Dye injector & dye

My ac wasn't terrible, it would usually get to about 48-50F on recirculate, using a dial thermometer in the vent, but could tell it wasn't working as efficiently. On a few occasions it seemed to cool then not cool then start cooling again which based on the FSM, that could mean that the receiver/drier needs to be replaced.

As my first step for troubleshooting, I added refrigerant until the low/high pressure gauges were within FSM's spec., instead of adding dye. Will add dye if needed but so far I was able to get my ac temps to about 40-42F.

It took one full can of this 340g R134a refrigerant. The actual weight was 444g & 101g empty.

 

[fourfive]

Fsm

 

[brillo_76]

Great Job. We knew you could do it.. She blowing nice and cold for you again and you definitely need it in Georgia.

How fast are you losing your refrigerate? As I inject UR Dye into the systems so I can see the leaks with a UV Flashlight and glasses.. Then I will fix all the leaks have the system vacuum down let it set a few days to see if I loose any vacuum. Then Fill the system back up.

As old as these are now the condenser and pumps are mostly leaking along with the condensers. The injected Dye help you pin point it.

Super slow leaks you be alright for a while. Its when you get a major leak the parts need replaced. ( I have to change a evaporator in a Sienna Van Soon )

Plus this winter. My compressor started to lock on my 1997 limited. So I have to replace that one in a few months as well.

 

[fourfive]

Great Job. We knew you could do it.. She blowing nice and cold for you again and you definitely need it in Georgia.

Thanks. It took several months to build up the confidence. Had my new manifold gauge set & vacuum pump sitting in my garage since last summer when I bought them ;P

How fast are you losing your refrigerate? As I inject UR Dye into the systems so I can see the leaks with a UV Flashlight and glasses.. Then I will fix all the leaks have the system vacuum down let it set a few days to see if I loose any vacuum. Then Fill the system back up.

As old as these are now the condenser and pumps are mostly leaking along with the condensers. The injected Dye help you pin point it.

Super slow leaks you be alright for a while. Its when you get a major leak the parts need replaced. ( I have to change a evaporator in a Sienna Van Soon )

Not fast. I'm pretty sure the ac system has never been serviced in its life. UV dye would have been wise but I was too eager to see if I could actually fill the system properly using gauges, vacuum pump, etc. & was staring at my dye injector the whole time. Will add dye at some point. ....will also add dye to my engine oil at some point.

 

[JohnMc]

I'm mildly amused by the conflicting directions in point 1 and 2.

1) Do not handle refrigerant in an enclosed area or wear eye protection.
2) Always wear eye protection.

But you just said not to....

 

[mtbtim]

Good job Brian and Jordan!

 

[JZiggy]

Good job Brian and Jordan!

I haven’t contributed anything! In fact, Brian’s gonna show me how this works and charge up my AC this weekend (I hope)

 

[fourfive]

I haven’t contributed anything! In fact, Brian’s gonna show me how this works and charge up my AC this weekend (I hope)

I left a comment on Tim's video that we were gonna work on my ac that weekend, before we rescheduled.

Speaking of ac, my temps have been a consistent 40F. Thanks Tim!

 

[Previologist]

I too have been reluctant to take on this job, but after reading about other mere mortals doing it and watching this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kUdCa3feGvg

and this one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdq8JAlct6s

I just did it successfully on my 97 Previa this weekend using a rental pump and gauges from Autozone. They don't include the shutoff that you need for the can, but I talked them into loaning one anyway.

I know my 4runner leaks so with my new confidence I will tackle that this summer.

 

[nissanh]

Make sure to add some PAG oil during this charge: about 20-30 mL

The compressor is old and the oil that is already there might have become less efficient or may have trapped somewhere else. If you look at the functionality of a compressor, the valves are just metal flappers that seats with the help of oil. I tried to improve AC in my 92 prizm (33 year old car with factory AC 100%) in many ways and even after cooling the evaporator core (while in the car), the AC blower CFM rate increased and bit of cooling.. Then I added compressor oil about 40 mL with R-12( it has R-12 from the factory: 4Runner uses R134A). The change is significant as my car is red and in west TX we are already hitting 35 C... within 2 blocks of driving the vents blow ice cold air!. I then went ahead and added PAG oil (along with 134A gas) to the 4runner and the result is amazing.

 

[96RedRunner]

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] you need to change the filter/drier at its age. Bamadrewski & myself have had
desiccant cartridge disintegrate into system that necessitated replacement of everything.
2017 cost was $30 for drier vs $$ for system. Cheap insurance.

 

[fourfive]

[MENTION=116877]fourfive[/MENTION] you need to change the filter/drier at its age. Bamadrewski & myself have had
desiccant cartridge disintegrate into system that necessitated replacement of everything.
2017 cost was $30 for drier vs $$ for system. Cheap insurance.

Good idea. Thanks.

 

[96RedRunner]

If your look at A/C system freon charge capacity +- specs in FSM.
Two 12oz cans, easy to find, falls in the +- spec for proper charge of empty system.
2017 01 system, held 28" vacuum two 12oz cans dye Pag for what I changed still giving 38*F.
Empty systems are the easiest to charge don't have to look at gauges.

 

[phattyduck]

If your look at A/C system freon charge capacity +- specs in FSM.
Two 12oz cans, easy to find, falls in the +- spec for proper charge of empty system.
2017 01 system, held 28" vacuum two 12oz cans dye Pag for what I changed still giving 38*F.
Empty systems are the easiest to charge don't have to look at gauges.

This is what I did when I replaced a damaged AC condenser a while back. New condenser, new reciever/dryer and some oil. Two 12oz cans put in after a good vacuuming.

Haven't checked temps, but it is plenty cold in all conditions.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

I'm mildly amused by the conflicting directions in point 1 and 2. But you just said not to....

Ha yea worth a chuckle.
Looks similar to when autospell/check takes over I then text point 2

 

[96RedRunner]

Haven't checked temps, but it is plenty cold in all conditions. -Charlie

90's few days already here doing its thing. New drier it comes with new clean site glass for checking stuff.

 

[fourfive]

AC system compressor oil ND-8/PAG 46 capacity

Very possible I missed it but these were the only 3 mentions I saw in the FSM for compressor oil (ND-8/PAG 46) capacity which totals 4.11 fl.oz.

Does this mean the total oil capacity for our ac system is 4.11 fl.oz? If that's the case, it seems to be consistent with what I found on this site which states most modern passenger cars take about 4 fl.oz.

A/C Compressor PAG Oil Application Chart

BUT that site also gives these compressor oil guidelines when changing ac components which totals 5.9 fl.oz. I'm assuming they mean if changing the entire ac system then add 4 fl.oz of oil but if changing individual components then add what their guidelines recommend, as long as the total quantity you're adding doesn't exceed 4 fl.oz?

 

[phattyduck]

BUT that site also gives these compressor oil guidelines when changing ac components which totals 5.9 fl.oz. I'm assuming they mean if changing the entire ac system then add 4 fl.oz of oil but if changing individual components then add what their guidelines recommend, as long as the total quantity you're adding doesn't exceed 4 fl.oz?

General advice is not the same as FSM specifications from the manufacturer... Follow Toyota's specifications.

-Charlie

 

[96RedRunner]

PAG amounts are forgiving to a point and how much to add. Rules of my thumb/s.
On a new virgin system or system having all parts replaced been to add hi number of +- range,
as close as for fixed amount such as drier.
A system opened for R&R of leaks drier comp cond bits n pieces gets tricky because of residual oil here n there.
that's where I add lower spec amount. Still guessing to a point.

For the above R&R best scenario base line, Vacuum pump/time.
More time in a vacuum boils off more Pag to vapor pump pulls out vapor, gets residual.
Add what FSM says +- whatever vehicle. 4 hrs @28"vac hold it an hour SOP gtg.

 

[fourfive]

General advice is not the same as FSM specifications from the manufacturer... Follow Toyota's specifications.

-Charlie

? May have misunderstood my question. I found 3 occasions of when the FSM said to add nd-8 oil which was, add .71 oz when replacing the receiver, +1.7 oz for evaporator & +1.7 oz for condenser. All that adds up to 4.11 oz & I wasn't sure if I missed another section in the FSM of when else they may have said to add oil, like when having to replace a line. I brought up the general guidelines because it seemed to be consistent with what I found in the FSM & if anyone knew better or could confirm what I found.