Accelerating

[darktiger]

Okay, I am not sure if this is a problem. When I drive my car, from a cold start, I do not have any problems. I have full power/torque. But if I stop my car, turn it off then turn it back on say 5 minutes later I develop this problem sometimes. The problem is when I am accelerating, it feels like I do not get any power, it feels like my power/torque is cut by say 30-40%. It is not that reactive, sort of feels like going from a V8 4runner to a v6 highlander or rx330. Does the outside temps have anything to do with this. Here in southcentral TX, temps get around 98-103. This problem is more noticable in hot temps, and usually does not happen in cold, or warm(75-85

 

[greasefingers]

I have not experienced this and it is not that hot in Jerzey, but the 4th gen does have non-contact type throttle position sensor (hall-effect type) and the drive-by-wire (accelerator pedal position sensor) on it. I hope these will not become troublesome additions to our vehicles. To me, it sounds like the computer is not reading the correct status of one or more of the inputs (sensors) but this is only a wild guess.

 

[Spider5]

I have noticed the same when it gets into the 100's. I have the problem when sitting in traffic for a while. I also noticed that there is a lot more radiator fan noise even though the temp. gauge stays rock solid, have you had this also. Is the fan requirement robbing the power?

 

[darktiger]

I have noticed the same when it gets into the 100's. I have the problem when sitting in traffic for a while. I also noticed that there is a lot more radiator fan noise even though the temp. gauge stays rock solid, have you had this also. Is the fan requirement robbing the power?

Yes I have notice that. Sounds like what happens, especially the setting in traffic. But my temp gauges stays perfectly normal...

 

[Spider5]

I hope others can give feedback to find if this is normal. If it is normal then Toyota create a pretty poor cooling system. Why didn't they use electric fans. I wonder if you can change the clutch fan out for an electric setup? I had the same type fan setup on my Mustang, and although it made a lot of noise and failed several times, it did not rob the engine of any power.

 

[GYoter]

when its hot and i have the a/c cranking, mine does that too. it just doesnt seem to have the get up that it usually has. it makes more noise too because of the fan. I dont think it is anything to worry about.

 

[NCSCOTT]

Sounds Normal to me!!!

It sound like it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. When the Fan Clutch is engaged you will feel a reduction in power. I live in Eastern NC and it gets that hot here to and I notice the fan running on ocaision. If you are in heavy stop and go traffic the fan may run nonstop to keep the air moving through the radiator and A/C condensor coils to keep you and the engine cool. When you finally get moving again it might take a minute for the water temp to come down to the set level inorder for the computer to release the fan clutch.

The fly-by-wire system will also reduce your power on cold start-up. If you get in the truck first thing in the morning and start it and back up and drive right away and try to floor it you will not get all your power. It is just the computer being smarter than you and trying to reduce the possibility of damaging a cold engine. It can be annoying at times but it was made that way for a reason.

 

[Spider5]

I don't want to speak for darktiger, but this power reduction is very significant. It is unlike something I would have expected and something I never experienced before having owned numerous V8's over the years. It is almost like someone hitch my 4500 lb boat to the back.

 

[darktiger]

Re: Sounds Normal to me!!!

It sound like it is doing exactly what it is supposed to do. When the Fan Clutch is engaged you will feel a reduction in power. I live in Eastern NC and it gets that hot here to and I notice the fan running on ocaision. If you are in heavy stop and go traffic the fan may run nonstop to keep the air moving through the radiator and A/C condensor coils to keep you and the engine cool. When you finally get moving again it might take a minute for the water temp to come down to the set level inorder for the computer to release the fan clutch.

The fly-by-wire system will also reduce your power on cold start-up. If you get in the truck first thing in the morning and start it and back up and drive right away and try to floor it you will not get all your power. It is just the computer being smarter than you and trying to reduce the possibility of damaging a cold engine. It can be annoying at times but it was made that way for a reason.

The funny thing is, first thing in the morning is when I get full power. It is not unless I am in traffic on a hot day(98+), or stop my car, then restart the car. And the power drop is significant. Like jumping from a high torque V8 into a smooth 4 cyclinder. Like from a v8 4runner into a civic or rav4....

 

[NCSCOTT]

I wish I could be more help but if it were me I would try and get a service dept. manager to ride with me since you would be better at trying to reproduce the condition at which it occurs. I am an Electronic Technician so I feel the pain of a Dealership service tech. I always want to be able to fix the problem, But If I can not make the item fail for me in the same manner it is very frustrating since I can not pin point a problem. I would rather have an item fail hard than an intermintent problem. I know the dealerships feel the same way. We all bash they here but I really feel for the most part they would rather be able to fix it than have a repeat problem from the same customer. I also have a V-6 and I can not speak with any certainly for a V-8. Anyway, Goodluck.

 

[NCSCOTT]

I have not experienced this and it is not that hot in Jerzey, but the 4th gen does have non-contact type throttle position sensor (hall-effect type) and the drive-by-wire (accelerator pedal position sensor) on it. I hope these will not become troublesome additions to our vehicles. To me, it sounds like the computer is not reading the correct status of one or more of the inputs (sensors) but this is only a wild guess.

Grease fingers may be right. I often see items work all day long in a cool enviroment, But you put the same item in an oven say to 150 degrees or higher and it fails. This may be the case with one of the many sensors used for the ECM.

 

[darktiger]

Any one else have a solution or experiance this problem?

 

[habs72465]

Any one else have a solution or experiance this problem?

Yep, I have the same problem, primarily when it's hot, but it happened to me this morning when it was 69 degrees. It is frustrating, driving down the street, the engine revving high and not going anywhere in any great hurry. I'm hoping someone might have a fix for this.

jeff

 

[greasefingers]

Habs: your problem may be different from the other people, stated in this thread. If the rpms increase but the vehicle speed does not; then this can be low tranny fluid. Also the tranny will sometimes not shift into the final drive/gear when the fluid is low.

You should list vehicle info in your signature eg: model year and engine type.