I have been experiencing a small leak the past two months on my '03 T4R, 4.7 4WD. It's not leaking bad at the moment, just enough to create an annoying spot on the garage floor. After inspecting it myself, the leak appeared to be coming from between the Actuator and the Transfer Case. After taking it in to my repair shop, they confirmed this. I was told that the only way to replace the seal is to take the TC completely apart. They quoted me $3100 for the whole job. That's roughly half what I paid for the vehicle. I have read a few posts mentioning Blue Devil and other posts with multiple options for repair. All seem to be several years old with not many, if any, newer comments. I was curious if the Blue Devil rout works or if I should bite the bullet and take an alternative route. Thoughts? Suggestions?
Actuator / Transfer Case leak
- Thread starter zeffbraun
- Start date
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In my continued research, I came across a newer post and will be giving it a try.
Transfer Case Actuator Leak - Fix OPTIONS & Thoughts
Transfer Case Actuator Leak - Fix OPTIONS & Thoughts
theladyviola
New member
Had the same prob. I dropped and split the transfer case 5 yrs ago. Did the transfer case overhaul kit and actuator seals. Hope I never have to do it again, but it’s done and hasn’t been a problem since.
And Blue Devil is the devil. Would not recommend going that route.
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Hi I'm new to the forum. I joined because my leaky transfer case has now almost blown up. Can someone point me in the direction to find help in #1finding a good OEM replacement and #2 a good "how to" with pictures so I can do the swap myself? I let the leak go too long without adding oil now I'm paying the price. I've seen in the past a post that spells it out well for the seals. I'm just going to swap the old one for a new old one and then rebuild the original so I have two for now.
If you were to go that route, just make sure the one you buy doesn't have that same problem (leak). These 4th gens are older vehicles so the o-rings will most likely be trashed by now. If you can find someone, who has it still on their vehicle for you to verify there's no leak and everything still operates/shifts/works as it should, that would be the best route.
Another alternative is swap in an FJ or a 5th gen manual transfer case and bypass that electronic actuator.
I have a perfectly good working transfer case that I just recently fixed the leak on and it works good. Goes into 4lo every time. I'm still debating whether to sell and going the FJ/5th gen route or just keep till it breaks....
I pretty much had the same leak and ordered all the components to drop the TC and change the seals. My dad convinced me to just pour half a bottle of Blue Devil leak stop into it. I cleaned everything with a good degreaser and monitored it for a couple weeks. It gradually started leaking less and less until it finally stopped.
Hey All, new to the forum, been working on Toyotas for decades. Can't post new threads yet but looking for information on setting the timing or "clocking the T-case actuator. 2003 4.7 with two rod set up. No 4low on this one.
I have repaired the O-ring leak on numerous 4th gen Runners, I always remove the actuator meticulously to avoid moving the shift rods. My helper pulled a little harder than intended and the actuator rods moved. We also found that the seals had been damaged previously. The garter springs were out of place and seals were bad. I had seen a post on here somewhere with detailed instructions on re-setting the gears and rods.
Thanks for any help.
I have repaired the O-ring leak on numerous 4th gen Runners, I always remove the actuator meticulously to avoid moving the shift rods. My helper pulled a little harder than intended and the actuator rods moved. We also found that the seals had been damaged previously. The garter springs were out of place and seals were bad. I had seen a post on here somewhere with detailed instructions on re-setting the gears and rods.
Thanks for any help.
I can’t find the link to the timing thread, but when I did mine I had one of the shift rods pop out so I had to tear into, I was able to get it timed and working properly with some pictures I took as I took it apart. Maybe these will help
I don't know if mine moved any at all or not, but the rod came clear out. My biggest challenge was figuring out which teeth on the rod started to meth with the teeth on the gear, i followed the grease pattern along with some wear marks and was able to get it on the first try. I threw it in and cycled it with the case open to make sure it moved where it needed to before closing everything up (friendly reminder to not forget to throw in the c-clips onto the rods before you close it up... mine are still sitting on the work bench from 6 months ago.. :shrug: )
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I don't know if mine moved any at all or not, but the rod came clear out. My biggest challenge was figuring out which teeth on the rod started to meth with the teeth on the gear, i followed the grease pattern along with some wear marks and was able to get it on the first try. I threw it in and cycled it with the case open to make sure it moved where it needed to before closing everything up (friendly reminder to not forget to throw in the c-clips onto the rods before you close it up... mine are still sitting on the work bench from 6 months ago.. :shrug: )
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I can’t find the link to the timing thread, but when I did mine I had one of the shift rods pop out so I had to tear into, I was able to get it timed and working properly with some pictures I took as I took it apart. Maybe these will help
I don't know if mine moved any at all or not, but the rod came clear out. My biggest challenge was figuring out which teeth on the rod started to meth with the teeth on the gear, i followed the grease pattern along with some wear marks and was able to get it on the first try. I threw it in and cycled it with the case open to make sure it moved where it needed to before closing everything up (friendly reminder to not forget to throw in the c-clips onto the rods before you close it up... mine are still sitting on the work bench from 6 months ago.. :shrug: )
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Thank you, I got the 4wd rod timed, the 4low is being a little more difficult. I think I got the teeth sorted out, it is the sensor wheel that I'm trying to get synchronized. 4low just blinks...
