Advice? Buying a 2001 with 232k miles for $5k today, maybe

[Littlebob]

2001 Toyota, 4Runner 4X4, SR5, Excellent Condition

I drove it last night and drives great, straight, great brakes, new tires, paint and wheels, etc are perfect. everything works. No signs of wear whatsoever anywhere. Engine area too is super clean. Only thing I could find wrong is cosmetic: a couple little dimples in the two corners of the rear chrome bumper.

Only saw it at night however and have not checked for rust, which I now know is a big problem for TR4 from what I have read today on nhtsa.dot.gov.

This is my second TR4 in the last month - see my other thread on what went wrong with my first.

He asked $5300 but will take $5000.

Going back to see it in a couple hours - wish me luck and if you happen to read this let me know if you have any other things to look for please let me know. I am going to roll it up on ramps and take a quick look for rust and leaking diff and leaking anything else

Thank you

 

[MStudt]

Seems like a good deal. Ask for maintenance records, check the frame for rust, and check the fluid.

 

[SOCAL_02LIMITED]

looks like a winner - go for it.

 

[BlazeRunner]

For that price, the underside of the vehicle should be close to spotless. No leaks, no rust, no accumulation of oil or grease anywhere. If that's the case, I'd go for it.

 

[mxer]

Seem quite high for that kind of miles and bare bones 4runner. Make sure there's documents for everything that's been replaced.

 

[JayRolla]

I would be a little hesitant being that I bought one years back with 180k. Granted mine is way older since its a 1996 but im starting to see the issues now that its around 240k mileage. It was just like yours, super clean drove great but now its really starting to show its age.

 

[shootmymime]

post up pictures when you go to see it.

 

[mxer]

but im starting to see the issues now that its around 240k mileage

like what?

 

[ajonesnv]

For that price, the underside of the vehicle should be close to spotless. No leaks, no rust, no accumulation of oil or grease anywhere. If that's the case, I'd go for it.

^^THIS^^

I wouldn't go jumping in without a solid inspection, bear in mind that the 2001 has all the VTC and brake extras, so if the booster were to fail, which is fairly common it is a very expensive fix. OEM 1200.00ish, junk yard 500.00ish. That shouldn't deter you, but if you have other options it is something to consider.

And of course like the rest said check up on all the maintenance. IDK, if it was already mentioned, but check the inside of the rear wheels for any sign of grease. Rear seal failure is common on and highly related to bad bearings. This is another 1000.00+ repair...unless you can do most of it yourself then it will be about 500-700.

EDIT: I just saw that the timing belt isn't mentioned, I would pin him down on when that was done and if it wasn't subtract the cost of doing it. That would have needed to have been replaced at least twice by now. The cost from a shop is going to be about 1000.00, cost of doing yourself will be about 500.00.

Also consider replacing the radiator right away...at that mileage I would suspect it has a higher percentage of causing a pink milkshake. Google Pink Milkshake if you are unfamiliar.

 

[Littlebob]

First, Thanks. there are some great tips here to save me $$$.

I did not buy the car because he did not have it smogged - it had lapsed.

And upon further review in the daylight it was not as clean as I had hoped.

There were a few light stains here and there and outside some very light body paint scratches, etc.

There was no rust, underside was very clean.

The engine compartment looks almost too clean for a car with 232k miles so I think they did a steam clean of the engine, which spooks me s little.

There was a build up of old grease on what I guess is a skid plate at the transaxle. If they did steam clean I'm surprised they didn't hit this. Also the oil pan while not dripping was not completely dry.

So I guess onto the next one.

Thanks again everyone.

 

[JayRolla]

like what?

Well so far I have had to do all the suspension, lower ball joints, upper ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, rack and pinion, front calipers, rear axle seals, radiator which is the norm on this truck for high mileage. Would have done it all either way even if lower mileage.

Now im getting a good valve sound between 2-4k rpms, the driveshaft u joints make noises and wheel bearings are starting to make noises. Im also starting to throw some trans codes and sometimes it dont like to stay in final gear. Also some sounds seem to be coming from the drivetrain that I cant really pin point. Its just starting to feel like replacement motor, rear end, front end and or trans is not to far away. I try to treat her good, keep her maintained and hoping for 300k mileage.

 

[AZ4Running]

Well imo $5K is pretty high for a 3rd gen with over 200K on the OD. It had better be in tits shape no issues at all, all service records and be fully loaded.

 

[Arnezie]

I did not buy the car because he did not have it smogged - it had lapsed.



Thanks again everyone.

Smog OK..Registered 'till Sept 2015 in his ad:doh:

 

[Rock_Rat]

2001 3Rd Gen with 308,000 miles

I bought my 2001 new back in the fall 2000 and I have the original window sticker and 308,000 miles on it and it's running great. I'm in the middle of a small overhaul now as I kept getting the knock sensor code and I was tired of clearing the code every day with my ODB reader. I've been running the OEM oil filters with Amsoil synthetic, changing the timing belt, and water pump and V-belts every 70K like clock work. I also installed the tranny cooler, Airaid with a K&N filter and a deck plate mod. Aside from that I run Denso platinum plugs K16TR11 with denso wires and perform regular maintenance every 5-7000 miles and stick to OEM as much as possible. The only "hard" maintenance that I've had to have done was to replace the tranny back in 2011 and have an axle bearing pressed in. Since I have my intake manifold off right now for the knock sensor (typical wiring harness) I'm considering pressure cleaning my injectors and replacing the seals and screens or possibly buying a balanced set from LCE. I love my 2001 and despite it's age, I'm getting ready to do some heavy mods. Without seeing it, I think 5K for the one in San Jose wouldn't have been that bad of a deal.

 

[mxer]

Well imo $5K is pretty high for a 3rd gen with over 200K on the OD. It had better be in tits shape no issues at all, all service records and be fully loaded.

In all fairness, you think anything over 1k is too high

 

[BlackWorksInc]

I'm sorry I didn't get your PM until late.

 

[AZ4Running]

In all fairness, you think anything over 1k is too high

No. Granted i got my 4runner for a steal. But i would pay 3500-4000 for a 01 sr5 in good shape with that mileage. 5000 would be fine if it had like 150-180k. Just my opinion and what i would pay . I do like finding good vehicles for cheap. I paid 1000 for my 98 civic had it 8 years with no issues its now my tuner, track, weekend car. Paid 800 for my 96 tacoma trd sport needed lbjs due to a separted right side. It takes time to find the good ones for cheap:rapture:

 

[Amirocassar]

I'd really look into it but I'm jealous. My 2002 4runner had 172k miles when I bought it back in January. It was my first car so I was always somewhat of a car guy but never had a car to fix. My biggest mistake and so was my fathers was not being more thorough. We knew the brakes were bad, engine was dirty(not a big deal but if the engines dirty makes you wonder how well they took care of it). I didn't have much history of the vehicle as it was the 3rd owner(whom was drunk when she sold it) got it for 5k. Might've gotten screwed might of not, everybody has an opinion. All highway miles from Alabama to Texas. They used a lot of non-OEM stuff which I didn't like, since now I know how much better toyot as parts are. The biggest miss I made was the rear axle seal. Which was a cheap fix and me and my father did it ourselves. Now it's leaking again, me and my father had a bit of an issue since the seal installer he had only went up so big so it wasn't a perfect fit.(having that fixed by pepboys only because it's cheap, I don't have the time, and at least they have warranty but I still hate people touching my car). It also had some dents and sun damage. So what I'm saying is really do a good inspection with your eyes and have some place do a multipoint inspection. Some places do it for free or what not. Also if you have a cop friend get him to look up the VIN lol. Wish I had knew of my family members do it for me, I still want to.

(Apologies for the novel, just trying to save someone from ever getting partially screwed).