Advice on HiLift or make jackstand for lifted 4runner

Mgltacoma

New member
I am getting closer to move overseas and trying to figure out what I should do about my jack situation. I have standard toyota jack that wont work on my truck since it is lifted 3 inch with bigger tire 33". I need advice on whether I should buy hilift or make jack stand out of 4x4 wood. I want your opinion on it. The obvious advantage with wood is cheap light to carry, hilift is heavier longer.
 
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Lift makes no difference. The stock jack should work unless you have like 37"+ tires. Lift from under the rear axle or the front LCAs.

Hilift is heavy, noisy, requires a bunch of heavy, noisy accessories, is dangerous, and requires rock sliders to use for changing tires.
 
I have been using the safejack on my lifted Tacoma. Going to continue to use it once I lift the runner.

Works great and while I have a hi lift as well I'm much more comfortable using the bottle jack.
 
Lift makes no difference. The stock jack should work unless you have like 37"+ tires. Lift from under the rear axle or the front LCAs.

Hilift is heavy, noisy, requires a bunch of heavy, noisy accessories, is dangerous, and requires rock sliders to use for changing tires.

Sounds like stock jack is for me since I am not an experienced off road guy. So, if I understand you correctly even with my 3 inch lift and bigger tire Duratrac 285/70r17 the stock jack should work fine without even using 4x4 wood? Or should I get some kind of jack stand for my stock jack? Thanks for the response.
 
Sounds like stock jack is for me since I am not an experienced off road guy. So, if I understand you correctly even with my 3 inch lift and bigger tire Duratrac 285/70r17 the stock jack should work fine without even using 4x4 wood? Or should I get some kind of jack stand for my stock jack? Thanks for the response.
285 70/17 tire only makes 1/2 inch of difference in ground clearance. Lift only changes the static ride height of the suspension, the axle in back and the lower control arms in the front are the same distance from the ground as without lift. A block of wood wouldn't hurt, but it is not required.

The screw type OEM jack is less likely to lower unexpectedly than a hydraulic bottle jack, but a jack stand is certainly best if you can carry one as it has a much larger (more stable) base.
 
I agree a hi-lift isn't particularly safe, but neither is using a bottle jack at the outboard end of the LCA. That part of the LCA slopes up smoothly toward the center of the vehicle, and can spit the jack out of there like a watermelon seed. I experienced that on a different vehicle some years ago, fortunately after the wheel was back on. Not interested in trying that again.

The Toyota approved jacking point for the front is under the frame, in back of the front wheel, and the OEM jack will likely not be long enough to get the wheel clear of the ground if you have a 3 inch lift.

I carry a 4x12x12 pad for the bottle jack, a wheel lift attachment for my hi-lift, and a jack stand to support the frame if I need to lift the vehicle. Gives me some options to do it safely.
 
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Sounds like stock jack is for me since I am not an experienced off road guy. So, if I understand you correctly even with my 3 inch lift and bigger tire Duratrac 285/70r17 the stock jack should work fine without even using 4x4 wood? Or should I get some kind of jack stand for my stock jack? Thanks for the response.
Yes but I carry a block of wood anyway for ground pressure alleviation in soft ground.
 
The Toyota approved jacking point for the front is under the frame, in back of the front wheel, and the OEM jack will likely not be long enough to get the wheel clear of the ground if you have a 3 inch lift.
Unless it is extended/long travel it won't make any difference. Most lifts don't make any change in suspension down travel, so the tire will lift off the ground at the same frame height whether it is lifted or not.
 
Unless it is extended/long travel it won't make any difference. Most lifts don't make any change in suspension down travel, so the tire will lift off the ground at the same frame height whether it is lifted or not.

This. Besides, on all my rigs I keep a ratchet strap to tie the suspension up if I needed to lift it for whatever reason.

Highlift jacks are dangerous. If you guys buy them, practice with them throughly before needing them. People lose teeth, fingers and die from improper use of them. They are a heavy tool that commands respect.
 
This. Besides, on all my rigs I keep a ratchet strap to tie the suspension up if I needed to lift it for whatever reason.

Highlift jacks are dangerous. If you guys buy them, practice with them throughly before needing them. People lose teeth, fingers and die from improper use of them. They are a heavy tool that commands respect.

I've had one for 35 years. Never carry it and last time I used it was for lifting a corner of a bridge out in the woods.
 
I've had one for 35 years. Never carry it and last time I used it was for lifting a corner of a bridge out in the woods.


You know Greg, I've carried one for 20 years and used it once...on a buddies rig and the reality was.....because we wanted to. I did use it last summer to help move my shed and I know how to use it....and darn near hurt myself. LOL
 
I've used a Hi-lift quite a bit over the years and I think that they are an incredibly versatile tool. As a kid, without the $ for a winch, that's all I had and it worked great. I'll admit that I most likely won't get this rig into those kind of situations, but it's a tool that I love having along for the ride.
 
I've used a Hi-lift quite a bit over the years and I think that they are an incredibly versatile tool. As a kid, without the $ for a winch, that's all I had and it worked great. I'll admit that I most likely won't get this rig into those kind of situations, but it's a tool that I love having along for the ride.
A properly rated quality come along is a better winch replacement than a hi lift

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk
 
Unless it is extended/long travel it won't make any difference. Most lifts don't make any change in suspension down travel, so the tire will lift off the ground at the same frame height whether it is lifted or not.

Depends on how the lift is done. A lot of aftermarket shocks claim increased down travel - I think Bilstein says the 5100 will add an inch. A tophat spacer lift will increase down travel by the amount of the lift. So, it's something that needs checking.

Using a ratchet strap to hold up the suspension has its own safety issues. If you strap the front LCA in the region of the shock attachment, the strap needs to hold about 2500 lbs to keep the suspension from drooping (roughly double the weight on the wheel). That's beyond the safety rating of most garden variety Home Depot ratchet straps. Plus, the strap will likely have to go around small radius edges on the LCA and the upper shock mount, which will further decrease its load capability.

Bottom line is, there are a lot of ways to lift your vehicle, but they all involve applying multiple thousands of pounds of force somewhere. Caution, clear thinking, and taking it slow are the secret to containing those forces safely.

Whatever jacking solution you settle on, try it out and practice on your driveway. If it doesn't work there it sure won't work on the trail.
 
A properly rated quality come along is a better winch replacement than a hi lift

Sent from my HTC6525LVW using Tapatalk

I agree with you there, in regards to pulling in a straight line. But, thats only one of many ways to get unstuck. Ever use the handle to reinforce a badly bent tie Rod? It actually works and will get you home. That's just one a few examples of why I personally like to have one on hand.

Don't get me wrong, I have nothing against a block of wood! They also have many uses, I suppose it all depends on what you are heading out to do.
 
I think mine is extended, I have Icon stage 2(2010-UP Toyota 4Runner 0-3.5" Suspension System - Stage 2 (Tubular) | K53062T)
So maybe having 4x4 is good enough? Wonder how high it needs to be. I guess sure way will be to try it out.

That's the most important thing you can do after reading everyone's opinion, try out what you pick ahead of time before you need it!

A hi lift is a very simple physics solution to handling a lot of weight designed for the farm where people don't expect to be coddled. As such safety is not part of the design. It is very effective when used properly. Do not use one if you are not familiar with it and gotten some education on its use and figured out how to use it with your specific vehicle

I've used mine:
  • As a winch using their attachment and a 20 foot chain. (get a winch, really it sucks but it WAS a solution vs walking)
  • With a dedicated winch where the vehicle had to go up before it could go in the direction being pulled. I wish I had had their tire attachment!
  • To change tires many times

a 4x4 block doesn't help with a high lift, actually makes it more dangerous. A 2x8 provides a better base. Really just a hi lift alone isn't very useful. It's highly useful when used as part of a thought out recovery package.
 

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