Advice Please - Sell Or Fix?

[DAWG NATION]

Hey Guys

So, purchased a 2001 4Runner Limited RWD 228K Miles about a week ago for $2200.
Did the usual checks, VIN Audit etc but did not take it to auto shop for a checkup :wow:
When i met the seller there were 3 people behind me so i felt a bit pressured and may have made a rash decision...

Anyway, decided to take it to auto shop on my way home after picking it up and thats where i got a few surprises:

1) Alternator was bad
2) New plugs and filters
3) New rear axle bearings and seals
4) New belts

All about $800
(Just replaced Alternator)

Should i spend the money and hope nothing else fails.
Or Try and sell as is and hope to recoup my investment.

Your Input Is Appreciated...

 

[jgue467]

That's a loaded question!

First things first, how does it Run? Bad? Is that why they suggest plugs/wires or just CUZ?

Is the alternator light on dash ON? Is that why the new alt or Cuz a reading shows low output voltage/amps? Rebuild instead?

Are the rear seals leaking? Easy to tell.

You should be able to tell if the belts need replacing, do they?

All in all, 800 is pretty good for all that, usually the rear seals are that alone or more.

Without knowing how it runs otherwise (meaning any smoke from exhaust?), how the exterior and interior look (do they need to be re-done too?), it's tough to suggest what to do. But 800 ain't much more to sink....so Go for it!

Luck and enjoy that Runner. :cowboy:

 

[apohl17]

I don't mean to undermine, but was this the first time you had been in this auto shop, or have you had work done there before? At least around me, I find it hard to trust/agree with some of the things that a shop says would "need" to be replaced.

Here's what you should do: Inspect the belts closely, if you don't see any cracks or stress marks, then they don't need to be replaced yet. If they are starting to fade or discolor, then they are definitely old, but wouldn't need to be replaced now if need be. Plugs and filters should be changed periodically, but unless the previous owner kept a maint. log or told you when they were last replaced, it's hard to say when they were last done. Again, not a crucial issue unless the engine is running poorly. I understand you replaced the alternator already, but there would have definitely been signs of it going out.

Lastly, real axle bearings/seals, this is probably the most expensive part of your quote, because it takes time to do. There is a testing procedure in the Toyota FSM that describes the check procedure for bearings, but you should visually be able to check if the seals are bad. I don't want to say that it's unheard of them going bad over time, but I wouldn't be surprised if they were in the grey zone between "fine 'n dandy" and "should be replaced". To me, i'd go back and ask them the level of wear that they see when inspecting them, and make your decision from there.

A lot of guys put a lot of time and effort refreshing these ~20 year old rigs, but mostly when things go out or need to. I don't know too many people that go through and replace every bearing, seal, joint, component, etc. when they first show sign of wear- that wouldn't be extremely practical. Mind you, if you plan to wheel or hardcore offroad the vehicle, that's a different story...

Hope this gives a bit of insight!
Oh, and when you post, scroll down to the green "manage attachments" button under "Additional Options", and upload your pictures there. Should work! :cheers:

 

[Joelzy]

^^ agreed 100%

that being said, it is a 20 year old vehicle and you paid the low end of what some pay for these. If you're only in 3 grand and it doesnt need anything else for a while, i'd call that a giant win but dont expect it to be maintenance-free.

 

[DAWG NATION]

Thanks Folks

Yeah i expected to spend some money, i guess i just needed some reassurance from you'all...
I don't expect it to last me forever, just a good driver for a year or 2.

Just to Clarify:

It's making a grinding noise and mechanic said it was caused by rear axle bearings being worn.

It actually drives well, shocks seem good, no oil leaks, no squeaks when turning, no overheating even when idling for 20min in school pickup line.

Antenna motor is broken but that seems normal from threads ive read.

The only other thing ive noticed is a whining noise from AC fan or motor, don't know yet...

Cheers

 

[BoomerBob]

Thanks Folks

Yeah i expected to spend some money, i guess i just needed some reassurance from you'all...
I don't expect it to last me forever, just a good driver for a year or 2.

Just to Clarify:

It's making a grinding noise and mechanic said it was caused by rear axle bearings being worn.

It actually drives well, shocks seem good, no oil leaks, no squeaks when turning, no overheating even when idling for 20min in school pickup line.

Antenna motor is broken but that seems normal from threads ive read.

The only other thing ive noticed is a whining noise from AC fan or motor, don't know yet...

Cheers

Axle bearing or differential? It sounds like you haven't had the work done yet. I'd have someone else look at it before committing to getting any work done.

Yeah; the antenna motor issue is common. I just cut the plastic gear off and reinstall the mast. Works great. Don't run it through any car washes without taking out the mast though.

 

[Kanoe]

That's a good looking 4runner for the money you paid. I wouldn't feel bad about it needing some work. I think most of us on here have poured a grand or so into our 4runners when we first get them to get back on top of the maintenance. They are a Toyota product and PO's seem to think that means no maintenance is needed.

Take a look at some of the buyers guides. There are a couple of key weaknesses (LBJs, pink milkshake) that should also be addressed if they have not been done by the PO. Once you get her cleaned up it should last you well more than a couple of years. Good luck and good purchase!

 

[DAWG NATION]

Thanks
I did go for a 2nd opinion and they told me the same thing, bad bearing's. I did get CBA to drop original quote from $520 to $315, small win I guess...

 

[jgue467]

Yeah it's a keeper (especially if no rust!). Good job on getting the price dropped. Luck. :cowboy:

 

[SantaCruzRunner]

All in all not a bad purchase by any means. i would highly suggest that you take a look at the timing belt tho. that is truly more of a priority it sounds like (minus the grinding rear end)

 

[plcfcng]

Yes I second all the advise above. You purchased it from a private party so I'm sure that all the fluids need to be looked at or changed. I would try and budget a few items threw the year with priority on safety items. I key will be to find some one that you could trust and if the know about 3rd gens is a big plus. Front brakes is another item i did not see mentioned. I have 2 2001 247,000 and 255000 miles on each and they run great. I put rear axles bearings on one and did a engine swap on the other and rebuilt the other. If you are a little handy there are plenty of videos and with a investment in tool you could save a bunch of money. The key if this is new to you then don't short cut for example if you change the spark plugs use a torque wrench when you put them back Harbor Freight is selling torque wrenches on sale for 9.00 dollars not a high end tool but they work as need for this. You may find you could keep it long than a couple of years.:third:

 

[pauldub]

FYI, it's a challenge to get someone to do the rear axle bearings correctly for you. Take a look at the video that Tim did.

 

[BoomerBob]

Yes I second all the advise above. You purchased it from a private party so I'm sure that all the fluids need to be looked at or changed. I would try and budget a few items threw the year with priority on safety items. I key will be to find some one that you could trust and if the know about 3rd gens is a big plus. Front brakes is another item i did not see mentioned. I have 2 2001 247,000 and 255000 miles on each and they run great. I put rear axles bearings on one and did a engine swap on the other and rebuilt the other. If you are a little handy there are plenty of videos and with a investment in tool you could save a bunch of money. The key if this is new to you then don't short cut for example if you change the spark plugs use a torque wrench when you put them back Harbor Freight is selling torque wrenches on sale for 9.00 dollars not a high end tool but they work as need for this. You may find you could keep it long than a couple of years.:third:

Be sure to use anti-seize on the plug threads too. I've put so many plugs in over the years that I can do it by feel but for someone who hasn't; the torque wrench is a good idea.

Like they say; "tight's tight and too tight's broke".

 

[plcfcng]

Hot Start Running ? could you explain that one.:artist:

 

[DAWG NATION]

Paid $4800 for my 99 4x4 limited needed 2k in basic maintenance axel seals ball
Joints struts springs all the fun stuff now has a hot start running. Issues and can’t get rid of it man get out while you can I will never by another old car again ever


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dang, That's a hard pill to swallow...

 

[aontkos]

Paid $4800 for my 99 4x4 limited needed 2k in basic maintenance axel seals ball
Joints struts springs all the fun stuff now has a hot start running. Issues and can’t get rid of it man get out while you can I will never by another old car again ever

In all honesty, that’s fairly easy stuff to catch when you are inspecting the vehicle yourself...and even easier for an experienced mechanic to notice. Most vehicles that are 20 years old will need these things, so it’s pretty naive to think you won’t need to do maintenance when you buy an older vehicle.

Do folks really expect to buy a car that’s 20 years old with absolutely no problems?

 

[AntleredRuin]

To the OP, depending on how handy you are, most of those items are easily DIY'd, and for pretty cheap too.
If it runs fine, then postpone the plugs, but do them eventually for basic maintenance, along with the wires. Visually inspect the belts for frays, as stated earlier. If none, postpone those too.
Do drain and fills on ALL your fluids sooner rather than later.

There are only 3 filters on the 3rd Gen: oil, air intake, and fuel. Oil is self explanatory. Air filter is $15ish and can be replaced in the Wal-Mart parking lot, and the fuel filter in on the fuel line underneath the drivers side seats. Maybe $20 on Amazon (I like Wix brand) and if minimal rust, can easily be replaced with 2 flare wrenches.

If the alternator is dying, it'll make a squealing noise or the battery light will come on. The alternator is easy to replace (any you may as well replace the belts if you're there and worried about their age). It's recommended to buy either a new or even used OEM Denso over a parts store brand rebuild (cheap rebuilds don't last long, and still costs $200+).

I got a 60k miles LKQ OEM junkyard alternator for my wife's 2005 Sequoia I just bought (The alternator light came on ON the drive home right after I bought it. 2 test drives showed nothing; of course) and it's going strong.
2000 Toyota Tacoma Alternator OEM 82K Miles (LKQ~226567873) | eBay
$60, 6 month warranty and your original lasted till 220, so this should last a while too.

Having not had to do my rear axle seal (knock on wood), I can't testify as to how hard it really is, but several people on this forum have done it and there are plenty of write ups.


I'd also focus on the Lower Ball Joints (OEM *ONLY*), new radiator (if not already) to avoid the pink milkshake, and new timing belt (if not done at 180k).
Toyota 3.4L/V6 Complete Timing Belt & Water Pump Kit | eBay
This Timing Belt Kit is highly recommended on this forum, and includes the drive belts, FYI.