Advice - Replacing Brake Lines

[gookies]

Had some leaking in a couple spots and ended up taking it to a shop instead to deal with the rust and rot instead of doing it myself. They recommended to replace all lines, which I didn't mind, but the issue was they were too scared to remove one of the bolts for the gas tank strap and they wouldn't replace the lines that were leaking due to liability issues (stating it was just going to be time until the rest of the lines leak). They seemed to be a well reviewed shop and didn't charge me for diagnosis.

I'm just unsure what to do, just try and replace the leaking portions myself and hope for the best or was there a way for them to route the brake lines without removing the gas tank?

 

[Drcoffee]

Its a diy if you have mechanical skills. Remember that you are putting lives at risk if you dont do it right.

This is the best kit I found when redoing the brake lines on my boat trailer. NiCopp line dont rust and are easy to bend by hand. Just need a flare tool $15-$20. There are lots of videos to show you how.

I would think you can run the new lines along side the old lines and secure them to the frame.


4LifetimeLines | 3/16" x 25' | Copper-Nickel Brake Line Kit

 

[rdruss]

There's a thread on here on this very subject. Yes, you can do it yourself, buy the right line in bulk and a bender and some fittings and watch some youtube.
The shop you went to must be incompetent or didn't feel they could charge you enough to make worth their while.

 

[gookies]

Its a diy if you have mechanical skills. Remember that you are putting lives at risk if you dont do it right.

This is the best kit I found when redoing the brake lines on my boat trailer. NiCopp line dont rust and are easy to bend by hand. Just need a flare tool $15-$20. There are lots of videos to show you how.

I would think you can run the new lines along side the old lines and secure them to the frame.


4LifetimeLines | 3/16" x 25' | Copper-Nickel Brake Line Kit

I'm confident in my skills, just didn't want to deal with the rust/corrosion of the lines, that's always a headache. I also looked into this prior to the shop and yeah, NiCopp is the way to go and the Titan brake flaring tool was also a well reviewed one.

I was more curious if any individuals in the rust belt just replaced the leaking lines and went on their way, then had a leak in another area further down the road, or did they opt to replace everything.

 

[gookies]

There's a thread on here on this very subject. Yes, you can do it yourself, buy the right line in bulk and a bender and some fittings and watch some youtube.
The shop you went to must be incompetent or didn't feel they could charge you enough to make worth their while.

I might've been one of those threads, I looked into DIY'in awhile ago. They were going to charge around $1000 and they showed me the precarious looking gas tank strap bolt, I'd also be wary of removing it and then causing a more problematic issue. Seems like my best option for now is to replace what I see is leaking and figure it out later down the road, maybe by then, the car itself won't be worth fixing due to other issues.

 

[MikeinNH67]

I replaced all of my rear lines with the copper/nickel stuff, also replaced the rubber one at the same time as it will get destroyed. The area over the gas tank was the hardest, I fished mine through there and didn't remove the old one. Didn't touch the tank straps until one of them broke a year later.

 

[AuSeeker]

I might've been one of those threads, I looked into DIY'in awhile ago. They were going to charge around $1000 and they showed me the precarious looking gas tank strap bolt, I'd also be wary of removing it and then causing a more problematic issue. Seems like my best option for now is to replace what I see is leaking and figure it out later down the road, maybe by then, the car itself won't be worth fixing due to other issues.

I would replace all of the lines, if you don't you're risking having a bad accident if one of the others starts leaking badly, since you already have one line leaking it won't be long before another or two do the same and it could rupture so badly that you lose all braking while driving, it's not worth the risk, IMHO.

As Mike mentioned above just fish the new brake line past the gas tank without removing it for that section.

 

[Drcoffee]

The gas tank straps might be ready to break away now as it is. Check them out thoroughly. It might be best to just replace the straps, bolts and brake lines now while the weather is nice.

I replaced my fuel pump last year and the rear strap was completely rusted thru. I just did them at the same time. My gas tank skid was swiss cheese. Had replace it too. Advice on removing the gas tank strap bolts is soak them good with pb blaster for the week before. Then work the bolts out slowly. Start by tightening it first and then walk it in and out until the rust breaks off. Hit the visible threads with pb blaster from both sides. The bolts are pretty stout 14mm heads IIRC but plan on replacing them with new ones, the threads will be eaten away. Its the skid plate bolts you need to be careful with. They are smaller and will snap. If you are careful, you can use an impact gun with short bursts. Its the solid torque of pulling on them that shears them off. The impact will walk them off bit by bit.

Just because one brake line is rusted does not mean they all are. What I have seem is where the vinyl coating got scraped and exposed the steel to corrosion. The other lines might still be fine or not nearly as bad.

I gave my kid a 99 4runner and 2 years ago thr right rear line started leaking. I will be out her way in a few weeks and swap out that line to get it running again. No plans to replace more than I have to. Its hubbies hunting rig now

 

[gookies]

I would replace all of the lines, if you don't you're risking having a bad accident if one of the others starts leaking badly, since you already have one line leaking it won't be long before another or two do the same and it could rupture so badly that you lose all braking while driving, it's not worth the risk, IMHO.

As Mike mentioned above just fish the new brake line past the gas tank without removing it for that section.

I definitely agree, I didn't mind paying the price, but doing this on my own will be quite a headache, guess I might have to find another shop that may be more creative or would take a risk and have the skill to also fix it. I'll probably need the straps to be replaced, but my current concern are the brake lines. Fortunately, I work from home now so this doesn't get driven often. This was the bolt they were scared of removing.

https://i.imgur.com/QZA9ifl.jpg

 

[gookies]

The gas tank straps might be ready to break away now as it is. Check them out thoroughly. It might be best to just replace the straps, bolts and brake lines now while the weather is nice.

I replaced my fuel pump last year and the rear strap was completely rusted thru. I just did them at the same time. My gas tank skid was swiss cheese. Had replace it too. Advice on removing the gas tank strap bolts is soak them good with pb blaster for the week before. Then work the bolts out slowly. Start by tightening it first and then walk it in and out until the rust breaks off. Hit the visible threads with pb blaster from both sides. The bolts are pretty stout 14mm heads IIRC but plan on replacing them with new ones, the threads will be eaten away. Its the skid plate bolts you need to be careful with. They are smaller and will snap. If you are careful, you can use an impact gun with short bursts. Its the solid torque of pulling on them that shears them off. The impact will walk them off bit by bit.

Just because one brake line is rusted does not mean they all are. What I have seem is where the vinyl coating got scraped and exposed the steel to corrosion. The other lines might still be fine or not nearly as bad.

I gave my kid a 99 4runner and 2 years ago thr right rear line started leaking. I will be out her way in a few weeks and swap out that line to get it running again. No plans to replace more than I have to. Its hubbies hunting rig now

Yeah, the straps are definitely rusted and this was the bolt they were scared to remove.

https://i.imgur.com/QZA9ifl.jpg

 

[rdruss]

I might've been one of those threads, I looked into DIY'in awhile ago. They were going to charge around $1000 and they showed me the precarious looking gas tank strap bolt, I'd also be wary of removing it and then causing a more problematic issue. Seems like my best option for now is to replace what I see is leaking and figure it out later down the road, maybe by then, the car itself won't be worth fixing due to other issues.

Good time to do your tank straps, or at least replace the questionable looking bolt. I did mine following "y+mx+B" post on it, it was not a bad job.

 

[gookies]

Good time to do your tank straps, or at least replace the questionable looking bolt. I did mine following "y+mx+B" post on it, it was not a bad job.

I linked an image above of the bolt in question, they were just scared if they removed it and it stripped, it would be another headache to try to fix and given how rusted it is in that area, don't think a weld repair may work.

 

[rdruss]

I linked an image above of the bolt in question, they were just scared if they removed it and it stripped, it would be another headache to try to fix and given how rusted it is in that area, don't think a weld repair may work.

Give it a good soaking with Liquid Wrench, or whatever, and it'll come out. Mine looked similar when I did my straps and no problems. I live in rust belt too.

 

[gookies]

Give it a good soaking with Liquid Wrench, or whatever, and it'll come out. Mine looked similar when I did my straps and no problems. I live in rust belt too.

Yeah, I actually went on earlier and soaked some of the visible bolts I saw, if I can get these loose, I'll likely take it back to the shop so they can replace all the brake lines. I'd love someone to chime in though if their situation went bad (bolt snapped or threads stripped) and what their solution was.

Edit - Read over y=mx+b's fuel tank strap replacement post, ran into another user, Abush who ended up snapping their bolts and indeed, their solution was quite a headache.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3655547-post53.html

 

[alia176]

Forgive my questions as I didn't digest all of the replies below but would it more of a PnP (plug n play) by purchasing pre-made hard lines from the dealer online? I use Claremont Toyota for a substantially reduced price and free shipping. See if it's worth your time before going the custom DIY route.

it's been a while since I removed the fuel tank but do the fuel tank strap bolts screw into captive nuts on the chassis? Of course, one would need to soak these hardware in PB Blaster or similar and pray that the bolts will come lose. Is there space above the captive nuts to introduce hardware store nuts should the captive nuts don't want to release the hold on the bolts? Again, apologies for not remembering if there are any wiggle room in that area.

I've had couple of instances where the captive nuts were corroded and I removed them then replaced them with regular nuts. But, I had the room to make this happen, which isn't always the case.

How to knock out captive nuts - simply use a hammer and a dull punch to knock them out. They have tiny amount of welds so they're easily knocked out of their perches.

HTH.

 

[gookies]

Forgive my questions as I didn't digest all of the replies below but would it more of a PnP (plug n play) by purchasing pre-made hard lines from the dealer online? I use Claremont Toyota for a substantially reduced price and free shipping. See if it's worth your time before going the custom DIY route.

it's been a while since I removed the fuel tank but do the fuel tank strap bolts screw into captive nuts on the chassis? Of course, one would need to soak these hardware in PB Blaster or similar and pray that the bolts will come lose. Is there space above the captive nuts to introduce hardware store nuts should the captive nuts don't want to release the hold on the bolts? Again, apologies for not remembering if there are any wiggle room in that area.

I've had couple of instances where the captive nuts were corroded and I removed them then replaced them with regular nuts. But, I had the room to make this happen, which isn't always the case.

How to knock out captive nuts - simply use a hammer and a dull punch to knock them out. They have tiny amount of welds so they're easily knocked out of their perches.

HTH.

Bending lines isn't too difficult with NiCopp lines and it's significantly cheaper, so I don't mind bending it myself.

Yes, they do bolt into some welded nuts inside the frame as I've read on the sticky about replacing them. And there may be some space to possibly get a nut in or as I posted above, a user ended up using rivnuts. I'm definitely soaking it in PB plaster for several days before trying to remove it.

 

[alia176]

Bending lines isn't too difficult with NiCopp lines and it's significantly cheaper, so I don't mind bending it myself.

Yes, they do bolt into some welded nuts inside the frame as I've read on the sticky about replacing them. And there may be some space to possibly get a nut in or as I posted above, a user ended up using rivnuts. I'm definitely soaking it in PB plaster for several days before trying to remove it.

Rivnuts are a great option if space is too tight for a regular hex nut. I've used them for adding a second fuel tank on my Landcruiser. Please use actual Rivnuts and not nutserts.

I used the tool below for my 3/8" x 16 Rivnuts and here's the link below: C722 / C845

Rivet Nut Tool | Rivnut(R) Installation Tool | Rivnut(R) Tool | Rivnut Hand Install Tool | Rivet Nut Installation Tools

Pic below

I wouldn't use these types of nutserts because they may not heavy duty enough but I've used on other applications.

Amazon.com: AKKTOL Rivet Nut Tool Heavy Duty 16”, Rivnut Tool Nutsert Tool Kit with 15PCS Metric/SAE Mandrels 125 PCS Rivet Nuts and Carrying Case for Entry Level and Professional Use : Automotive