Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

Abush · May 23, 2021

I was going through this job and ended up rounding the rear strap bolt.

How would I go about fixing this? I then tried drilling through but it kindof just made a mess.

Now I'm waiting for a ride to the hardware store. I was thinking of picking up a dremel to cut the bolt head off and then drilling the stud out. After that can i just tap to a bigger bolt size? I'm not sure if this will work since the bolt threads into a nut that's welded in the frame.

y=mx+b · May 23, 2021

Abush said:
I was going through this job and ended up rounding the rear strap bolt.

How would I go about fixing this? I then tried drilling through but it kindof just made a mess.

Now I'm waiting for a ride to the hardware store. I was thinking of picking up a dremel to cut the bolt head off and then drilling the stud out. After that can i just tap to a bigger bolt size? I'm not sure if this will work since the bolt threads into a nut that's welded in the frame.

Hey there, sorry about your rounded bolt. I've rarely had success drilling out a bolt. I'd try one of those rounded bolt head extractors if the head is still on the bolt. See Project Farm video below, he makes good comparison videos and you can see how they work

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/EWLxzuDMuhk" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

If those don't work or the head is snapped off, you can try to break the weld nut in the frame by hitting up on the headless bolt. This would only work if the bolt was somewhat loosened, or the head broke off. If the bolt was still tight, then you'd just be hammering the head into the frame rail, rather than the threads into the weld nut, if that makes any since

Once the internal weld nut is broken, then drop a new bolt in from this hole in the frame above the strap. One of those thin magnetic pickup tools would be helpful to hold and guide it in. Then put a new nut on from the outside and tighten

The rear strap should be less complicated since its an open bracket. Again, break the weld nut by hammering up on the broken bolt stud. Then just bolt through as normal and add a new nut from the back

If all else fails, I've had luck drilling some of the frame weld nuts to the next size up. and tapping. Not a gaurantee that there will be enough meat on the weld nut to hold the new thread size, but could be a last resort. Also could look into rivnuts

Abush · May 23, 2021

I really appreciate your thorough response.

Since the bolt is pretty much welded on with rust I may end up trying to cut off the head and hammer the weld nut out.

If I put a bolt through the top of the frame and then add a nut to the bottom would that make it so I can't take it off in the future? Since to my understanding the bolt/nut combo would just spin?

y=mx+b · May 23, 2021

Abush said:
I really appreciate your thorough response.

Since the bolt is pretty much welded on with rust I may end up trying to cut off the head and hammer the weld nut out.

If I put a bolt through the top of the frame and then add a nut to the bottom would that make it so I can't take it off in the future? Since to my understanding the bolt/nut combo would just spin?

That is a possibility, but that hole might been be big enough to get a ratchet and an extension in to grip the head.

You could also get a slightly longer bolt, drop it through the inside of the frame, add the one nut to tighten the strap, then add 2 jam nuts and tighten them against each other towards the end of the threads (don't tighten against the main nut used for tightening the strap). Then hold the lower jam nut with one wrench to hold the bolt from spinning, and use a second wrench on the strap tightening nut to snug up the strap

Abush · May 25, 2021

y=mx+b said:
That is a possibility, but that hole might been be big enough to get a ratchet and an extension in to grip the head.

You could also get a slightly longer bolt, drop it through the inside of the frame, add the one nut to tighten the strap, then add 2 jam nuts and tighten them against each other towards the end of the threads (don't tighten against the main nut used for tightening the strap). Then hold the lower jam nut with one wrench to hold the bolt from spinning, and use a second wrench on the strap tightening nut to snug up the strap

Well I really messed up Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I couldn't knock out the nut so i tried to drill through and ended up going sideways and only drilling out half the bolt/nut.

I'm really not sure what to do now. Do you think I could get away with grinding down the rest of that nut and then putting a bolt through the top like you described? The hole I drilled isn't very round and it's also off centre. :frusty: :beer:

I have no idea how I'll end up approaching the front strap since the bolt is in the frame.

But anyways thanks for all your help.

y=mx+b · May 25, 2021

Abush said:
Well I really messed up Imgur: The magic of the Internet

I couldn't knock out the nut so i tried to drill through and ended up going sideways and only drilling out half the bolt/nut.

I'm really not sure what to do now. Do you think I could get away with grinding down the rest of that nut and then putting a bolt through the top like you described? The hole I drilled isn't very round and it's also off centre. :frusty: :beer:

I have no idea how I'll end up approaching the front strap since the bolt is in the frame.

But anyways thanks for all your help.

For the front, I'd still try one of the rounded bolt head extractors from that Project Farm video. Use an impact if you have one, that will help it to really grab onto the head. This RocketSocket did fairly well in the tests: Amazon.com: ROCKETSOCKET 13 Piece with ⅜” Drive Impact Grade American Drawn Steel Extraction Socket Set Remove Damaged Frozen Rusted Rounded-Off Bolts Nuts and Screws - Made in USA: Home Improvement

Make sure you use some sort of penetrating fluid to give you all the help you can get. I like 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in an oil dropper, but right now, something off the shelf like knock'er loose, or Kroil, will probably be easiest to acquire.

Since the drill went all wonky and got half the nut, you could try to drill it larger to accept a rivnut. I haven't done this, but a friend did for his skid bolts, and it worked well
Amazon.com: RZX 16" RIVET NUT TOOL Hand Blind Riveter,12 mandrels+115PCS Rivets Nuts RIVNUT Riveting Tools with Nut Setting System M3 M4 M5,m6,m8,m10 M12, 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18,3/8-16,1/2-13 (16" RIVET GUN): Home Improvement

Abush · May 26, 2021

y=mx+b said:
For the front, I'd still try one of the rounded bolt head extractors from that Project Farm video. Use an impact if you have one, that will help it to really grab onto the head. This RocketSocket did fairly well in the tests: Amazon.com: ROCKETSOCKET 13 Piece with ⅜” Drive Impact Grade American Drawn Steel Extraction Socket Set Remove Damaged Frozen Rusted Rounded-Off Bolts Nuts and Screws - Made in USA: Home Improvement

Make sure you use some sort of penetrating fluid to give you all the help you can get. I like 50/50 mix of acetone and atf in an oil dropper, but right now, something off the shelf like knock'er loose, or Kroil, will probably be easiest to acquire.

Since the drill went all wonky and got half the nut, you could try to drill it larger to accept a rivnut. I haven't done this, but a friend did for his skid bolts, and it worked well
Amazon.com: RZX 16" RIVET NUT TOOL Hand Blind Riveter,12 mandrels+115PCS Rivets Nuts RIVNUT Riveting Tools with Nut Setting System M3 M4 M5,m6,m8,m10 M12, 10-24, 1/4-20, 5/16-18,3/8-16,1/2-13 (16" RIVET GUN): Home Improvement

Thank you once again, I'll try these next and post updates in the thread.

triethylborane · May 31, 2021

This has been on my list for a while and I received the liland straps Saturday. The skid and strap bolts are corroded, I am not hopeful they will unthread without shearing, so my plan is to use a carbide drill through the head and use stainless Rivet Nuts and fasteners. I dont see any more efficient option. I can screw around with drilling, extracting tools, chasing threads and such, but Ive got high quality bits that can go through this junk steel pretty easily.

I tested out one bolt and the bit went though it in short order. Started out with chips then went to long curly shavings. Bolt threads did not want to release, even with some heat, a fluted extraction tool, so forget that nonsense.

The steel Toyota used for the frame and other parts is very low quality, its embarrassing. Definitely got to get some boeshield t-9 and hit it hard.

y=mx+b · Jun 1, 2021

triethylborane said:
This has been on my list for a while and I received the liland straps Saturday. The skid and strap bolts are corroded, I am not hopeful they will unthread without shearing, so my plan is to use a carbide drill through the head and use stainless Rivet Nuts and fasteners. I dont see any more efficient option. I can screw around with drilling, extracting tools, chasing threads and such, but Ive got high quality bits that can go through this junk steel pretty easily.

I tested out one bolt and the bit went though it in short order. Started out with chips then went to long curly shavings. Bolt threads did not want to release, even with some heat, a fluted extraction tool, so forget that nonsense.

The steel Toyota used for the frame and other parts is very low quality, its embarrassing. Definitely got to get some boeshield t-9 and hit it hard.

Sounds like a solid plan! Carbide drills are fancy. I always hated drilling upside down, so hopefully that option works well. Let me know how it turns out!

03blkrunner · Jun 13, 2021

Thanks for the great write up. I have a question, if anyone else has had similar issues. I had the rear tank strap break, didn't follow this write up and basically the tank was hanging just from the front strap. This might have led to this problem.

Since then I've been getting a gas smell. It was getting really bad and after some diagnostics I ended up having to replace the evap valve (which can't just replace valve, have to get the whole canister). That helped quite a bit. But now I'm still getting a bit of gas smell, especially on hot days. Also, it seems that after driving to the store, when I go to start after, it has a bit of a hesitancy starting.

I couldn't spot anything from below but is there a common line/hose that can come loose or tear when the strap breaks?

triethylborane · Jun 16, 2021

y=mx+b said:
Sounds like a solid plan! Carbide drills are fancy. I always hated drilling upside down, so hopefully that option works well. Let me know how it turns out!

I installed the straps over the weekend, though the tank skid plate was not installed due to its degraded condition. The front strap still held the tank up and the rear strap was dissolved. All fasteners for the tank skid sheared and, thankfully, the strap fasteners came out with my 1/2" 18v Milwaukee impact. I used a greenlee fishtape to get the ratchet straps around the tank, the fish tape has a flat leader so this worked well with duct tape.

The trickiest part was reaching the front passenger side skid plate bolt, the driveshaft is in the way. Highly recommend dropping the front of the driveshaft. This also helps to insert the front strap mounting pin.

I used several floor jacks to lift up the tank so the strap tank bolts went in without load from the straps. Not necessary, but it makes it easier to install. Stainless fasteners and hardware only, I am not too concerned about shock load failure, stainless M10 bolts with lock washers should be fine.

I think it took me about an hour and a half. I drilled out a few of the skid plate bolts to check the fitment of rivnuts. I do not offroad so a lack of skid plate is not a major concern . . . I might weld up some aluminum for a tank skid, but the front skids are corroded and are a higher priority. These will likely be 1/4" aluminum just for the debris that can be encountered on the highway. Nothing fancy, lots of holes for drainage.

bigwave · Jul 12, 2021

I just removed mine, but she's in good shape all came off without an issue, I only did it to sand and repaint the skid plate.

Abush · Jul 14, 2021

Update on Broken Bolt

Sorry for late update,

I finally got around to trying rivnuts to fix my uneven hole/ drilled through weld nut.

So I got all the tools for it (3lb sledge, beefy set of chisels, and rivnut tool kit.)

I took the tire off, sway bar end link (it disintegrated from rust lol), and cut off a bit of the rear gas strap mount on the side. All so I could get a chisel in there.

It took a solid 20 whacks using both arms going pretty much as hard as I could.

I will never forget the satisfaction when the weld nut finally came out lol. Then I drilled a 1/2 hole and then a lil bit extra to fit the m10 rivnut in there.

No issues with the rivnut, I recommend a beefy rivnut tool if anyone ever needs to set steel rivnuts in their frame. Because it can be pretty hard to compress if you don't have enough leverage.

I did forget to put the little rubber sleeve back on the strap so I'll do that sometime soon, I also did not do the front strap in fear that I won't be able to smash the weld nut out since I won't have access from the sides.

Do you think it can be smashed out from the bottom?

I gave the one bolt I did replace a generous coating of anti seize and am running no rear sway bar now.

I will probably spend the rest of the summer chipping away at the rust, I never realized it was so bad at the back, it's pretty disheartening. Hopefully she lasts through some mild wheeling/ daily driving until I'm done college and can afford a new one.

This is already a way too long update. But as a side note- I never had any issues with getting the skid plate bolt that is by the drive shaft. I think I just used a couple extensions on my stubby impact and there was no issue reaching it.

I appreciate your advice and always looking forward to reading up on your build thread. :cheers:

y=mx+b · Jul 14, 2021

Abush said:
Sorry for late update,

I finally got around to trying rivnuts to fix my uneven hole/ drilled through weld nut.

So I got all the tools for it (3lb sledge, beefy set of chisels, and rivnut tool kit.)

I took the tire off, sway bar end link (it disintegrated from rust lol), and cut off a bit of the rear gas strap mount on the side. All so I could get a chisel in there.

It took a solid 20 whacks using both arms going pretty much as hard as I could.

I will never forget the satisfaction when the weld nut finally came out lol. Then I drilled a 1/2 hole and then a lil bit extra to fit the m10 rivnut in there.

No issues with the rivnut, I recommend a beefy rivnut tool if anyone ever needs to set steel rivnuts in their frame. Because it can be pretty hard to compress if you don't have enough leverage.

I did forget to put the little rubber sleeve back on the strap so I'll do that sometime soon, I also did not do the front strap in fear that I won't be able to smash the weld nut out since I won't have access from the sides.

Do you think it can be smashed out from the bottom?

I gave the one bolt I did replace a generous coating of anti seize and am running no rear sway bar now.

I will probably spend the rest of the summer chipping away at the rust, I never realized it was so bad at the back, it's pretty disheartening. Hopefully she lasts through some mild wheeling/ daily driving until I'm done college and can afford a new one.

This is already a way too long update. But as a side note- I never had any issues with getting the skid plate bolt that is by the drive shaft. I think I just used a couple extensions on my stubby impact and there was no issue reaching it.

I appreciate your advice and always looking forward to reading up on your build thread. :cheers:

Glad it worked out for you man!

Garo 4runner · Jul 15, 2021

Interesting, how are your frame rails?

y=mx+b · Jul 15, 2021

Garo 4runner said:
Interesting, how are your frame rails?

My frame rails between wheels are just about mint, but the extremities (very front and very back) are in kinda not as great shape

Toystory2 · Jul 23, 2021

y=mx+b said:
<a id="nine">Step 9: Reinstall Straps</a> | <a target="_self" href="!288559!4th-gen-t4rs/288559-fuel-tank-strap-replacement-tutorial-60-pictures.html#jump" >Return to Steps</a>
The rubber strap sleeves we removed earlier will be reused, since they're in good condition. They were a bit dirty, so I cleaned them up with some soapy water and a plastic wire brush.

From here, the rubber strap sleeves can be installed on the straps. They fit kind of loose, so I used zip ties on the ends to keep everything secured. The front strap is the shorter strap, and the rear strap is the longer strap.

Moving underneath, I first installed the strap pins and cotter pins in their respective hangers. Each pin was coated in anti-seize to prevent them getting stuck down the road. Pliers were used to help get the strap pin's cotter pin in. The rusty pin is the one I ordered a replacement for. It didn't arrive in time, so I'll install later and update pictures. Update! Installed the new pin here: <a target="_self" href="!m288559!4th-gen-t4rs/288559-fuel-tank-strap-replacement-tutorial-60-pictures-3.html#skidfix" >Extra Strap Pin Replacement + Fuel Tank Skid Fix</a>

Swinging the straps up, the bolts can be anti-seized and attached to the frame. I didn't torque these bolts to anything specific, just snugged them up to a few ugga duggas with the mini impact and manually overchecked with a ratchet.

<a id="ten">Step 10: Reinstall Skid Plate</a> | <a target="_self" href="!288559!4th-gen-t4rs/288559-fuel-tank-strap-replacement-tutorial-60-pictures.html#jump" >Return to Steps</a>
The skid plate was a bit difficult to wrangle in, so I apologize for not getting any super nice pictures. I put the bolts on in reverse order, starting with the #6, moving to #5, etc. All the bolts were coated in anti-seize, tightened up to a few mini impact uggas duggas, and checked with a ratchet. After the skid is in, it would also be a good idea to touch up any paint that go roughed up on install.

Congratulations!
Hopefully you and all of your bolts survived the tank strap replacement in one piece! Let me know if you have any questions about the install, I'd love to see some pictures of your strap replacement too!

I appreciate this write up! I may be tackling this this weekend. I don't actually have a fuel tank skid. Anything wrong with replacing the straps now and doing the skid later?

bijanayvazi · Jul 23, 2021

Very nice writeup and well detailed!

y=mx+b · Jul 23, 2021

Toystory2 said:
I appreciate this write up! I may be tackling this this weekend. I don't actually have a fuel tank skid. Anything wrong with replacing the straps now and doing the skid later?

I don't see any problem with that, actually eliminates the whole running straps between tank and skid dealio. I'd recommend staying on road without the skid for now, as the fuel tank is kind of low hanging fruit

triethylborane · Jul 26, 2021

Toystory2 said:
I appreciate this write up! I may be tackling this this weekend. I don't actually have a fuel tank skid. Anything wrong with replacing the straps now and doing the skid later?

This is what I wound up doing. My skid was not serviceable as two attachment flanges were rotted out and welding onto that low quality steel was a waste of time. I do not go off road anywhere near the level where a fuel tank skid would be worthwhile. I might make my own out of 1/4" aluminum and get some TIG welding time under the belt, but IMHO its not a major deal. Straps are a big deal though, but that steel Toyota used, its so bad.

Fuel Tank Strap Replacement Tutorial (60+ Pictures)

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