Advice requested. Not the typical 35" tire question

[owyheerat]

Greetings,

A few specs before I get to my question.
99 4runner, base model, 4cyl (2.7l 3RZ) 5 spd tranny. No engine mods and currently has 216k and still going strong (strong as a 4 banger can be…LOL).
-ARB lockers front and rear with 529 gears
-Full skids, sliders, front and rear plate bumpers
-255/85r16 (33’s) Maxxis Bighorn tires on stock 5 spoke wheels.
I built this to be an overland / explore / trail rig. It is not my DD, and not intended to be rock crawler. I am mostly happy with this set up, except for when I have to travel very far on the highway to explore a new area, which I find myself doing more and more of, and I eventually want to do Moab (600 mile drive).
At 70 mph I’m turning 3200 rpm. If I stepped up to a 35” tire (specifically Super Swamper 35x10.5x 16 SSR radial….because I like the tall skinnies) I would only be turning 3022 RPM (according to Grimjeeper gear ratio calculator).That’s not the only reason for considering 35’s. I’ve always admired the looks of 3rd gen runners on 35’s, and they would help add a little ground clearance.
So, lets here it…do you think it would be a good decision? Can I run these tires (skinny) without wheel spacers or a body lift? Is there a better option for a skinny 35” tire?
I gladly welcome any and all advice. This will be an expensive mod, and want to spend my money wisely. Translated…I don’t want to spend the money and then regret it.
Regards
Durwin

 

[absalom]

I'd love to know the weight of just one of those TSL's. But, if it's not your DD probably wouldn't be too annoying.

 

[owyheerat]

I'd love to know the weight of just one of those TSL's. But, if it's not your DD probably wouldn't be too annoying.

That is definitely a concern. According to Interco website...72 lbs each. I wonder how that compares to other 35's?

 

[absalom]

That is definitely a concern. According to Interco website...72 lbs each. I wonder how that compares to other 35's?

As far as 35's go, it's not the heaviest tire I've ever seen. But it's worth pointing out that a single tire weighs 10 lbs more than my entire wheel assembly; 63 lbs for both wheel and tire. Granted I am running 265/75/16's, but still. Again, if it's not used for DD, probably not a big deal. Here in Colorado, I personally wouldn't do it, as I'm willing to bet the 2.7 paired with 35's wouldn't be able to make it over the numerous 10,000 foot passes at speed. But if you live in a flat area, at low elevation, might not be that bad.

 

[ajordan1975]

I say go for it! No body lift ether. Lower COG is better! Tub the fire wall and trim the lower corner of the fenders and you'll be good to go. imp:

 

[owyheerat]

As far as 35's go, it's not the heaviest tire I've ever seen. But it's worth pointing out that a single tire weighs 10 lbs more than my entire wheel assembly; 63 lbs for both wheel and tire. Granted I am running 265/75/16's, but still. Again, if it's not used for DD, probably not a big deal. Here in Colorado, I personally wouldn't do it, as I'm willing to bet the 2.7 paired with 35's wouldn't be able to make it over the numerous 10,000 foot passes at speed. But if you live in a flat area, at low elevation, might not be that bad.

It is a valid concern, and I appreciate your input. The tire alone weighs as much as my current tire and wheel combo. I live in southwest Idaho, at about 2500' elevation. Fairly flat, but we have some mountains close by that I visit. Nothing like Colorado though. I don't mind going a little slow, but I don't want to be a 'slug'.

Keep the thoughts coming.

 

[absalom]

I say go for it! No body lift ether. Lower COG is better! Tub the fire wall and trim the lower corner of the fenders and you'll be good to go. imp:

I agree with this mentality. However, it's worth pointing out that a body lift carries a much lower CoG penalty than a suspension lift.

 

[JayRolla]

IMO since not a DD and you already have 5.29s go for it. A 1.5" body lift won't effect cog that much and have major benefits clearing the front tires at full flex. You can easily destroy fender at full up travel. Spc control arms will allow the most firewall clearance. Another member gets zero rub street driving with his spcs which is very tough on 35s. Then little tub work for when wheeling.

 

[owyheerat]

I say go for it! No body lift ether. Lower COG is better! Tub the fire wall and trim the lower corner of the fenders and you'll be good to go. imp:

I have researched but didn't see a good write up (with lots of pics) on how to tub the fire wall. How involved is this task? Do I have to loose the OEM windshield fluid reservoir?
I hope I don't have to trim the bumpers. Mine are both high clearance...AOR plate front and custom built (BanditRunner design) rear.

I appreciate your opinion and optimism.

Durwin

 

[nevada]

gearing wise, you should be much happier with the 35's.
also, being a skinny tire, they should fit nicer than the wides.

you might be able to have a tire shop test fit a tire for you.

i say do it. then do whatever it takes to the truck to get them to fit.

 

[owyheerat]

@ nevada, I was hoping you would reply. You impress me as a function first kinda guy.

Do you think I can accomplish this without spacers and a body lift? Just trimming / tubbing?

Thanks

 

[Bandit Runner]

I hope I don't have to trim the bumpers. Mine are both high clearance...AOR plate front and custom built (BanditRunner design) rear.

Your rear bumper should be fine for running 35's. No trimming needed.

 

[owyheerat]

IMO since not a DD and you already have 5.29s go for it. A 1.5" body lift won't effect cog that much and have major benefits clearing the front tires at full flex. You can easily destroy fender at full up travel. Spc control arms will allow the most firewall clearance. Another member gets zero rub street driving with his spcs which is very tough on 35s. Then little tub work for when wheeling.

Thanks for the input. The main reason I don't want to install a body lift, is because of the gap it will create at both the front and rear bumpers. I don't want to customize them...I'm lazy. lol

What is spc control arms? Is that a brand? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Do you think I will need wheel spacers? Reminder these 35's are only 10.5 wide.

Durwin

 

[owyheerat]

Your rear bumper should be fine for running 35's. No trimming needed.

Hey Jeremy,

Good to hear from you. I was hoping you would chime in to confirm this. Are you running wheel spacers? Do you rub at full lock? Did you do any trimming at firewall?

Thanks

Durwin

 

[nevada]

@ nevada, I was hoping you would reply. You impress me as a function first kinda guy.

Do you think I can accomplish this without spacers and a body lift? Just trimming / tubbing?

Thanks

I have no direct experience with that year. nor do I have any idea what the specs in your sig mean, in regards to vehicle height, and lift.

how much room do your current tires have?

usually a tire that is tucked in doesn't rub as bad as one that is out. either due to the wheel offset, or spacers.
or rather, I should say doesn't rub the fender as bad.

I wouldn't think spacers would be needed. but again, I don't know THAT rig, and have no idea how much clearance you are starting with now.

 

[ajordan1975]

Here's one write up
Tubbing Your Toyota Fenderwells

you shouldn't have to trim bumpers, or lose the wiper fluid res.

 

[owyheerat]

"how much room do your current tires have?"

Very good question. I know I don't rub, but I have never measured the clearance...Duh! I will do that.


Thanks

Durwin

 

[Bandit Runner]

Hey Jeremy,

Good to hear from you. I was hoping you would chime in to confirm this. Are you running wheel spacers? Do you rub at full lock? Did you do any trimming at firewall?

Thanks

Durwin

Yes, I have the Spidertrax 1.25" wheel spacers. I just barely rub on the frame rail at full lock.

I didn't "tub" the firewall, but I beat the heck out of it with a big hammer. In retrospect, I wish I would have tubbed it. It would have came out cleaner.

 

[owyheerat]

Here's one write up
Tubbing Your Toyota Fenderwells

you shouldn't have to trim bumpers, or lose the wiper fluid res.

thanks. that is more helpful than what I found. And good to know about bumpers and wiper fluid res.

Durwin

 

[JayRolla]

Thanks for the input. The main reason I don't want to install a body lift, is because of the gap it will create at both the front and rear bumpers. I don't want to customize them...I'm lazy. lol

What is spc control arms? Is that a brand? Sorry if this is a dumb question.
Do you think I will need wheel spacers? Reminder these 35's are only 10.5 wide.

Durwin

Well really look at maybe trying to limit up travel. Ive seen and read many people hitting the fender from the up travel bending them pretty badly. The body lift will help stop this. It usually happens when they slam the front down for the first time.

I had to run spacers on my 285's but those skinny's you might be okay.

SPC is a brand of UCA. They allow 4 +/- degrees of caster adjustment as where other controls arms are set at positive 2* caster bring the specs back to oem. The issue is that this added caster up top causes the geometry to slightly change and you get a lot more tire contact at the firewall. With SPC you can move the caster all the way forward (back to stock almost) allowing a lot of clearance at the pinch weld/firewall area. Only issue is you only can get maybe 2* maximum caster but never noticed an issue driving.