After brake job, master cylinder puffing noise + beep

[Rocky5000100]

While I was on vacation, I had a family friend mechanic do my front brakes. New calipers, rotors, and pads. Upon receiving the car back, it braked fine, except for a squeal/screech noise while making left hand turns and going straight.

Some diagnosis by me (removing front wheel and looking around) found the front right brake shield was touching the rotor. My shield is super rusted and I didn't want to break it off while bending, or have time to cut it off, so I took it to my dealer, who is actually pretty inexpensive.

On the way to the dealer, my dashboard lights lit up, (BRAKE, TRAC, ABS, VSC), and a constant beep noise started. A few seconds later it stopped. Then started again. This was randomly happening.

I let the dealer know I was having this issue, and thought perhaps my family friend mechanic did a bad job bleeding, and the system was reacting to air bubbles or something.

The dealer fixes the brake shield, and rebleeds the system. They could not recreate the lights + beep issue. They and I figure it probably just needed to be bled again.

Fast forward 30 minutes later driving home, and the lights come on and the beeping starts again. Now, I listen better (which is hard cause of the beep), and I can hear a puffing noise coming from the master cylinder area. I took a video for you all. It's hard to hear the puffing noise through the beep, but it's there.

My 4runner brakes just fine (better than before, due to new brake components actually). I feel no loss of pressure while this noise is happening.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N3LOv2Vo8Aw

 

[mtbtim]

Sounds like your family friend mechanic might have screwed up and let the master cylinder run dry when he was bleeding the brakes. If he did, he got air into the master cylinder. There's a bleed procedure for the master cylinder that I'm guessing the dealership didn't do. Since you already paid the dealership to fix this problem, I'd ask them to redo the bleeding but first bleed the master cylinder. I suspect your problems will go away once the this is done.

Please report back if my suggestion was correct or something else fixed the problem.

Btw, the video is useless. You can't hear the puffing noise over the beeping.

 

[nissanh]

Is it a 2002 model?

I think you should keep the ignition at ON to bleed these systems. MTBTIM can explain it better.

When I do the brakes I don't bleed the master pump separately. I just fill it up and crack open all 4 bleeding valves on all 4 wheels. I try not to press the pistons inside the master cylinder dry.

How are your ABS sensors? If the check engine is on find the code.

 

[Rocky5000100]

Sounds like your family friend mechanic might have screwed up and let the master cylinder run dry when he was bleeding the brakes. If he did, he got air into the master cylinder. There's a bleed procedure for the master cylinder that I'm guessing the dealership didn't do. Since you already paid the dealership to fix this problem, I'd ask them to redo the bleeding but first bleed the master cylinder. I suspect your problems will go away once the this is done.

Please report back if my suggestion was correct or something else fixed the problem.

Btw, the video is useless. You can't hear the puffing noise over the beeping.

Yea sorry for the video, I think only I can hear it because I know what it already sounds like.

Thank you for the information. I will contact the dealer and see if they can get me in soon.

Is it a 2002 model?



I think you should keep the ignition at ON to bleed these systems. MTBTIM can explain it better.

When I do the brakes I don't bleed the master pump separately. I just fill it up and crack open all 4 bleeding valves on all 4 wheels. I try not to press the pistons inside the master cylinder dry.

How are your ABS sensors? If the check engine is on find the code.

The ABS sensors are both still connected. Engine isn't throwing any codes (Just scanned this morning to make sure).

 

[mtbtim]

Is it a 2002 model?

I think you should keep the ignition at ON to bleed these systems. MTBTIM can explain it better.

When I do the brakes I don't bleed the master pump separately. I just fill it up and crack open all 4 bleeding valves on all 4 wheels. I try not to press the pistons inside the master cylinder dry.

How are your ABS sensors? If the check engine is on find the code.

Very good point. The 01 and 02 models need the ignition key in the "on" position to power the brake booster. But, I would freaking hope the dealer mechanic who bled it the second time would know this. There's a good chance the family friend mechanic didn't know this though.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

There is a way to set jumpers in the connector at the intake that will display any abs codes. It's worth a try. You friend may have injured a front abs cable


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[Rocky5000100]

After talking with the dealer, they forgot to mention they pulled a bunch of C codes (those don't show up on the engine ecu). They listed them further down in the service report.

The codes are:
C0279
C1223
C1231
C1244
C1256
C1268
C1340

Is it possible I have a short somewhere?

I did pull the battery cable for 30 minutes last night, but it had no effect. Was beeping 50% of the time on my way to work today.

 

[SaulG]

1223 1256 sounds like ABS Pump problems Skid control

 

[wrpsuite]

I've had this same problem intermittently and can never recreate for mechanic. Loud puffing sound sometimes with lights and buzzer that goes away. Then last week with ignition off and key out I heard clicking under the hood. Relay was clicking and battery was dead. Removed relay disconnected battery cable and cleaned connection. Put everything back together charged battery and no problems since. Seems to only happen when wet outside or below freezing. https://vimeo.com/201196670


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[MarkamisPrime]

I'm assuming you paid your friend to do the job. If it was me he would be the first one I would be calling. And having him fit the bill for any additional work needing to be done to fix his mistakes.
And if he is a mechanic then he should also know some steps to do or at least be able to tell you what he did.
Sounds to me like he didn't even take it on a final test drive after the job was done, if he left the backing plate rubbing.
I'd pressure bleed your system and start with the master cylinder going to the abs pump and then the brakes just to make sure there's no air anywhere.
A hissing noise when applying brake pedal pressure could be a bad booster.
Also don't over think it. If you didn't have a short before your not going to have one now all of a sudden. He only did a simple brake job so I'd retrace steps make sure he didn't unplug anything. But again only he can tell you what he did or didn't do so I'd get him involved.

 

[Rocky5000100]

Thought I'd update with the resolution: had to replace the master cylinder. I went new through the dealer, negotiated the part price. It was expensive, but my car only has 170k, and is in otherwise great condition, so it should last me several more years.

My family friend mechanic did lots of troubleshooting, but he walked me through what he did and I find no reason to fault him for anything. It really was just a simple brake job, with a proper bleed (minus the neglect of pushing the brake shield back into place).

The dealer spent a few hours diagnosing, and came to the conclusion something was wrong with the Master cylinder/abs pump/accumulator. And as we all know in 2001-2002 4runner, Toyota stupidly combined all those parts into one module that isn't really serviceable. I didn't have the time, knowledge, or tools to replace it myself with a used unit from a junkyard.

I will say though, the brand new master cylinder is VERY quiet when refilling the accumulator, compared to my old one. It also does it much faster.

 

[JayRolla]

That is good you found it. It's ridiculous the price for oem brake booster or master cylinder. I think my brake booster is going was have been putting it off.

 

[nissanh]

With the traction control the M/P has to apply the pressure to the slipping wheel without the driver's attention. So without a vacuum booster (as in the older cars) the M/P has to build it's own pressure, which is done by the compressed N2 gas.

I am worried with my 2000 Cruiser. It also has the same M/P setup and when it is bad, I heard it is about $2000 with the dealer. Many LC 100 users report the commutator inside the motor goes bad and there is a shop in CA rebuliding these with a warranty.

Glad I have a 97 runner!

 

[mccar349]

ABS Solenoid Gasket

I am trying to locate the Gasket P/N for the ABS solenoid module for a 02 4Runner. Attached is a reference picture, any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[mtbtim]

That's still a hell of a coincidence that the brake master cylinder fails immediately after a replacing brake components.

 

[wrpsuite]

Thought I'd update with the resolution: had to replace the master cylinder. I went new through the dealer, negotiated the part price. It was expensive, but my car only has 170k, and is in otherwise great condition, so it should last me several more years.

My family friend mechanic did lots of troubleshooting, but he walked me through what he did and I find no reason to fault him for anything. It really was just a simple brake job, with a proper bleed (minus the neglect of pushing the brake shield back into place).

The dealer spent a few hours diagnosing, and came to the conclusion something was wrong with the Master cylinder/abs pump/accumulator. And as we all know in 2001-2002 4runner, Toyota stupidly combined all those parts into one module that isn't really serviceable. I didn't have the time, knowledge, or tools to replace it myself with a used unit from a junkyard.

I will say though, the brand new master cylinder is VERY quiet when refilling the accumulator, compared to my old one. It also does it much faster.

So how much was the negotiated price and install ? I might beheaded in that direction. Did a total bleed and things have seemed to calm down but we'll see.



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[MarkamisPrime]

That's still a hell of a coincidence that the brake master cylinder fails immediately after a replacing brake components.

Not only that if he bleed the brakes by pressing on the brake pedal he probably let the pedal go to the floor ripping the plunger in your master.
It's happened to me before, just saying.
Not trying to blame him but it's just weird and one hell of a coincidence.

 

[wrpsuite]

Which relay controls this ? I've had the same problem for years and my only resolution is pumping brakes after parking each time. Annoying at best.


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[ZDT4R]

Brake+ VSC+ABS lights + continuous beep + puffing NO CODE NO CEL

While I was on vacation, I had a family friend mechanic do my front brakes. New calipers, rotors, and pads. Upon receiving the car back, it braked fine, except for a squeal/screech noise while making left hand turns and going straight.

Some diagnosis by me (removing front wheel and looking around) found the front right brake shield was touching the rotor. My shield is super rusted and I didn't want to break it off while bending, or have time to cut it off, so I took it to my dealer, who is actually pretty inexpensive.

On the way to the dealer, my dashboard lights lit up, (BRAKE, TRAC, ABS, VSC), and a constant beep noise started. A few seconds later it stopped. Then started again. This was randomly happening.

I let the dealer know I was having this issue, and thought perhaps my family friend mechanic did a bad job bleeding, and the system was reacting to air bubbles or something.

The dealer fixes the brake shield, and rebleeds the system. They could not recreate the lights + beep issue. They and I figure it probably just needed to be bled again.

Fast forward 30 minutes later driving home, and the lights come on and the beeping starts again. Now, I listen better (which is hard cause of the beep), and I can hear a puffing noise coming from the master cylinder area. I took a video for you all. It's hard to hear the puffing noise through the beep, but it's there.

My 4runner brakes just fine (better than before, due to new brake components actually). I feel no loss of pressure while this noise is happening.

Does anyone have any ideas as to what it could be?

YouTube

The same thing happened to me with 2002 T4R out of nowhere when I was close to home. The truck did not lose any braking ability so I drove it back.

Troubleshooting
==========
1. I had replaced the accumulator myself about a year ago. It should not have been it. I turned the engine off and pump the brake. I got about 50 times out of it before I drained the accumulator. Good sign..

2. I kept stepping on the brake with the drained accumulator and started the truck. The brake did not sink any further. It ran for 2 minutes and the lights and beep came back along with puffing. This was my old trick to test the MC in my old corolla. Not sure if this was relevant with 2002 T4R. But I took it as a good sign.

3. Repeated Step 1 and got about the same number of pumps. Good sign. That said my accumulator and electric pump were probably okay.

4. I turned on just the accessories to confirm Step 3. 2 minutes in, the pump stopped and the accumulator was charged. At this point, I was sure the pump and accumulator were not my problem. Lights+noise+puffing came back.

5. At this point, I was looking into getting an old entire MC assembly on ebay, but I read that it would need to be re-programmed with my VIN. I could not find any info on how to do that so I went back to analyzing the assembly.

6. I repeated Step 3 and 4 and noticed that the electric pump kept running while the brake was puffing and it darned on me that there must have been too much pressure with the pump constantly on so puffing could have been a way to relieve the pressure.

7. I homed in (googled) on relief valve and pressure sensor and came across this master cylinder pressure switch, PN# 89637-30050. This is a cylinder-shape switch sitting right below the brake fluid reservoir. I ordered one for $320.

8. It'd been 2 weeks since the symptom when the the switch arrived. Armed with that and an extra deep 30 mm socket, I drained the accumulator and replaced the switch. I was surprised that very little brake fluid came out.

9. Finger crossed...I started the truck...NO MORE LIGHTS/BEEP/PUFFING!!!

Here is the picture of the switch

 

[jgue467]

Sweet find! This could help some folks save a lot of money. Fingers crossed, mine has held up 307+K miles so far but I'll keep this handy. Enjoy that Runner! :cowboy: