After market audio help (JL W7)

[Rocket61]

Hey guys I'm planning on putting in a 12'' w7 wedge box and was wondering if anyone with after market audio could weigh in.

I believe the stock alternator is supplying 130w. Assuming the engine/lights require 50w and the 80w left for accessories equates to 1100w. Will I have any trouble running a 1000w amp? Technically should work without pulling from the battery but I'm not a 100% the engine/lights use 50w.

I was hoping to leave in my stock JBL head unit because I like the factory look and it doesn't draw attention into the cabin when it's parked (I have slider canopy to cover the box in the back). Some guys say I'll be fine and other say I won't be pushing the speaker to its potential (sound quality wise) if I run it off the factory JBL. What do you think?

Cheers!

 

[4D7]

Hey guys I'm planning on putting in a 12'' w7 wedge box and was wondering if anyone with after market audio could weigh in.

I believe the stock alternator is supplying 130w. Assuming the engine/lights require 50w and the 80w left for accessories equates to 1100w. Will I have any trouble running a 1000w amp? Technically should work without pulling from the battery but I'm not a 100% the engine/lights use 50w.

I was hoping to leave in my stock JBL head unit because I like the factory look and it doesn't draw attention into the cabin when it's parked (I have slider canopy to cover the box in the back). Some guys say I'll be fine and other say I won't be pushing the speaker to its potential (sound quality wise) if I run it off the factory JBL. What do you think?

Cheers!

1. Is the amp 1000W max, or RMS

2. W7 is amazing, I have a 10" DVC 4Ohm variant - it sounds amazingly clean.

3. The factory alternator will provide enough current to keep a 1kw amp performing solidly. Use a 1 farad cap to keep some of the abuse away from your alternator.

4. You can use the factory head unit if you'd like, but you'll need to use a hi-lo converter to convert an audio signal from one of your speaker leads (I'd use the factory sub) into an RCA input for your amp. You'll have some adjustment at the amp such as crossover and gain - but doing it this way will limit your tuning ability as the factory head unit is providing the amp with a pre-tuned signal for the factory sub

5. Some guys don't know what they are talking about.

 

[wheelds]

1. Is the amp 1000W max, or RMS

2. W7 is amazing, I have a 10" DVC 4Ohm variant - it sounds amazingly clean.

3. The factory alternator will provide enough current to keep a 1kw amp performing solidly. Use a 1 farad cap to keep some of the abuse away from your alternator.

4. You can use the factory head unit if you'd like, but you'll need to use a hi-lo converter to convert an audio signal from one of your speaker leads (I'd use the factory sub) into an RCA input for your amp. You'll have some adjustment at the amp such as crossover and gain - but doing it this way will limit your tuning ability as the factory head unit is providing the amp with a pre-tuned signal for the factory sub

5. Some guys don't know what they are talking about.

You can run the amp/sub on a stock alternator. If your headlights or dash starts to dim look into doing a "Big 3" upgrade. Don't waste your time with a cap.

And as 4D7 says you can keep you stock headunit. There are all kinds of OEM integration line converters. Look at AudioControl, JL, Kicker, Rockford Fosgate, and then if you want to spend more and get a DSP check out Audison

CLICK ME!!

 

[ddnww]

if you're talking about the JL 1000/1 then yes, you will get headlight dimming when you crank it up, which is not good for your electrical system.
like previously said, upgrade the big three (alt to positive on batt, neg on batt to engine, and engine to frame) to at 0 guage wiring...also upgrade to a high output alternator , I would recommend at least 250 amp..

this is assuming you want to crank it loud most the time.

if you will be playing mostly at lower volumes, there is no need to upgrade your electrical.

 

[Rocket61]

Thanks for the input guys.

The amp:
2000w @ 1 ohms
1200w @ 2 ohms
650w @ 4 ohms

The W7 runs at 3ohms so I'm guessing it'll pull about 950w from the amp. Going to pick up the sub/box/amp this weekend.

 

[ddnww]

Thanks for the input guys.

The amp:
2000w @ 1 ohms
1200w @ 2 ohms
650w @ 4 ohms

The W7 runs at 3ohms so I'm guessing it'll pull about 950w from the amp. Going to pick up the sub/box/amp this weekend.

what exact make and model is the amp

 

[Rocket61]

what exact make and model is the amp

It's a US Amps MD3D.

(Audio Savings | US Amps Merlin MD3D MD-3DN 2000 Watt RMS Class "D" Mono Car Amplifier Amp MD.3D)

 

[Offroader5]

I am only familiar with the "old school" US Amps stuff, not sure about the new lines...but it should do rated power.

1. Do the big 3 upgrade of your cables in the engine bay (check google, there is plenty of info about this on the web)....don't bother with a capacitor, just a waste of money.

2. Is this the only amp or are you also going to run one for the front speakers?

3. The amp is a class D...which means it's way more efficient than an AB class. This means it will not be as big a drain on your electrical system as a comparable wattage from a class AB amp.

FYI, I used to run a PPI Phantom 1000.1 mono amp to a pair of 8's. The way they were wired the amp was seeing 1 ohm which is at least 1000 watts (these amps can do rated power..plus). This was in conjunction with a Lanzar 400 watt 4 channel (AB amp-not as efficient), and I had no problems with electrical drain.

The "flashing headlight" syndrome can also be caused by under sized wiring. If you run power & ground cables the correct size for the amperage requirments of that amp, you should be fine. It's when you see people running 8 gauge wire from the battery to cabin...or even 4 gauge from the battery to the rear of the vehicle that you may have issues. It's like trying to drink water through one of those coffee stir straws vs. a regular straw. The too small wiring can cause problems.

Check out this site: Basic Car Audio Electronics There is a wealth of info there to help you learn a lot. it has calculators too that will help you figure out cable sizes and fuse sizes needed based on your setup.

 

[ddnww]

It's a US Amps MD3D.

(Audio Savings | US Amps Merlin MD3D MD-3DN 2000 Watt RMS Class "D" Mono Car Amplifier Amp MD.3D)

those are good amps, you're gonna be knockin

 

[Rocket61]

I am only familiar with the "old school" US Amps stuff, not sure about the new lines...but it should do rated power.

1. Do the big 3 upgrade of your cables in the engine bay (check google, there is plenty of info about this on the web)....don't bother with a capacitor, just a waste of money.

2. Is this the only amp or are you also going to run one for the front speakers?

3. The amp is a class D...which means it's way more efficient than an AB class. This means it will not be as big a drain on your electrical system as a comparable wattage from a class AB amp.

FYI, I used to run a PPI Phantom 1000.1 mono amp to a pair of 8's. The way they were wired the amp was seeing 1 ohm which is at least 1000 watts (these amps can do rated power..plus). This was in conjunction with a Lanzar 400 watt 4 channel (AB amp-not as efficient), and I had no problems with electrical drain.

The "flashing headlight" syndrome can also be caused by under sized wiring. If you run power & ground cables the correct size for the amperage requirments of that amp, you should be fine. It's when you see people running 8 gauge wire from the battery to cabin...or even 4 gauge from the battery to the rear of the vehicle that you may have issues. It's like trying to drink water through one of those coffee stir straws vs. a regular straw. The too small wiring can cause problems.

Check out this site: Basic Car Audio Electronics There is a wealth of info there to help you learn a lot. it has calculators too that will help you figure out cable sizes and fuse sizes needed based on your setup.

Thanks for the info! I'm keeping the stock jbl amp in its place for now. Planning on tapping into the low levels coming into it for the w7. Eventually I'd like to replace all the door speakers.

Quick update:

Picked up 25ft of 1/0 welding cable for $80 yesterday. Audio shop wanted $250! Going to do the big 3 with this stuff and the md3d takes 1/0 so looks like I'll be running it to the back as well. 175a fuse for alt-pos and 100a for pos-amp. I have spare 14 gauge around here for the small connections and low level taps. Overall, $120 for an industrial grade 1/0 wiring kit. I also like that it's all black and will have the factory look under the hood. Not a fan of glossy blue wires under there.

 

[Rocket61]

those are good amps, you're gonna be knockin

I'll have a video up next week. Install was planned for Sunday. Coincidently, my back hatch soft-close striker started to not grab this week and a new lock assembly is coming in Monday. Wouldn't feel comfortable having that much audio gear in the back overnight with the door roped closed red green style.

 

[ddnww]

Thanks for the info! I'm keeping the stock jbl amp in its place for now. Planning on tapping into the low levels coming into it for the w7. Eventually I'd like to replace all the door speakers.

Quick update:

Picked up 25ft of 1/0 welding cable for $80 yesterday. Audio shop wanted $250! Going to do the big 3 with this stuff and the md3d takes 1/0 so looks like I'll be running it to the back as well. 175a fuse for alt-pos and 100a for pos-amp. I have spare 14 gauge around here for the small connections and low level taps. Overall, $120 for an industrial grade 1/0 wiring kit. I also like that it's all black and will have the factory look under the hood. Not a fan of glossy blue wires under there.

i think ive read its no a good idea to use welding cable.. might wanna research that. damn.. the audio shop wanted $10 a ft... that rediculous.

 

[Offroader5]

Welding cable is just fine...it's just not nearly as flexible as standard cable or even some of the really flexible car audio specific cable. It's usually made up of larger strands than in conventional cable and has tougher outer covering...this all leads to less flexibility.

 

[Rocket61]

i think ive read its no a good idea to use welding cable.. might wanna research that. damn.. the audio shop wanted $10 a ft... that rediculous.

I've read a lot on welding vs audio cable. At the end of the day, copper is copper. Where guys go wrong with welding cable is when they don't crimp the ends well enough and the wires fall out. 25 strand 1/0 welding cable is not easy to work with but performs the same, if not better.

Bought the box and sub yesterday. Installing tomorrow!

 

[Rocket61]

So today is the big day. Did the big 3 last night with the 1/0 welding cable. Turns out the engine-neg line is already close to 0 gauge so I decided to leave it. The alt-pos and neg-ground were tiny, neg-ground especially, so big difference there with the new 1/0 in.

Just had a question for those who have wired an amp with the stock jbl. I'm planning on tapping into the low levels coming into the factory amp. Does anyone have experience with this? Any tips?

 

[MaliciousClout]

So today is the big day. Did the big 3 last night with the 1/0 welding cable. Turns out the engine-neg line is already close to 0 gauge so I decided to leave it. The alt-pos and neg-ground were tiny, neg-ground especially, so big difference there with the new 1/0 in.

Just had a question for those who have wired an amp with the stock jbl. I'm planning on tapping into the low levels coming into the factory amp. Does anyone have experience with this? Any tips?

Get rid of the JBL amp. I yanked mine and the sub box and placed a nice JBL 4 channel in their place.


If you dont want to do that, just tap into the output to the factory sub.

 

[Ohhh S.k. CFPB]

So today is the big day. Did the big 3 last night with the 1/0 welding cable. Turns out the engine-neg line is already close to 0 gauge so I decided to leave it. The alt-pos and neg-ground were tiny, neg-ground especially, so big difference there with the new 1/0 in.

Just had a question for those who have wired an amp with the stock jbl. I'm planning on tapping into the low levels coming into the factory amp. Does anyone have experience with this? Any tips?

can you post pictures of your connection points and how you ran your wires please!!!!! <3

 

[gshadow325]

2. W7 is amazing, I have a 10" DVC 4Ohm variant - it sounds amazingly clean.
5. Some guys don't know what they are talking about.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ JL Audio does not have nor ever produced a Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm variant in a 8", 10", or 12". Only dual voice coil in the W7 lineup is the 13.5" dual 1.5 ohm W7

Picked up 25ft of 1/0 welding cable for $80 yesterday. Audio shop wanted $250! Going to do the big 3 with this stuff and the md3d takes 1/0 so looks like I'll be running it to the back as well. 175a fuse for alt-pos and 100a for pos-amp. I have spare 14 gauge around here for the small connections and low level taps. Overall, $120 for an industrial grade 1/0 wiring kit. I also like that it's all black and will have the factory look under the hood. Not a fan of glossy blue wires under there.

Not a fan of glossy blue wire, sound a excuse for buying welding cable. LoL. there is black wire loom for that.

Your fuses might be a little too high. 125 in the front after battery, and one is not needed in the rear PRE amp.

Idea with a fuse is to have a fuse blow in case of emergency. 175 is high considering the only has 3 40amp fuses.
Little hint, you take the fuses and add them up on the amp, then round up to the next .25 that is the fuse you need.

3x40=120 so fuse needed is 125

Welding cable is just fine...it's just not nearly as flexible as standard cable or even some of the really flexible car audio specific cable. It's usually made up of larger strands than in conventional cable and has tougher outer covering...this all leads to less flexibility.

$10 per foot retail is kinda high especially thats about 400% markup.

Premium 0/1 cableing 50ft roll should be around $200 cost.
When all you really need in the truck is some good 4 gauge, 0ga is just overkill in most applications. its such a pita to work with too

Getting all this cableing, big 3, capacitors and talk about alternator.....when the single biggest improvement is a Stinger SPP1750 big battery.

 

[Rocket61]

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ JL Audio does not have nor ever produced a Dual Voice Coil 4 ohm variant in a 8", 10", or 12". Only dual voice coil in the W7 lineup is the 13.5" dual 1.5 ohm W7




Not a fan of glossy blue wire, sound a excuse for buying welding cable. LoL. there is black wire loom for that.

Your fuses might be a little too high. 125 in the front after battery, and one is not needed in the rear PRE amp.

Idea with a fuse is to have a fuse blow in case of emergency. 175 is high considering the only has 3 40amp fuses.
Little hint, you take the fuses and add them up on the amp, then round up to the next .25 that is the fuse you need.

3x40=120 so fuse needed is 125




$10 per foot retail is kinda high especially thats about 400% markup.

Premium 0/1 cableing 50ft roll should be around $200 cost.
When all you really need in the truck is some good 4 gauge, 0ga is just overkill in most applications. its such a pita to work with too

Getting all this cableing, big 3, capacitors and talk about alternator.....when the single biggest improvement is a Stinger SPP1750 big battery.

The amp actually has 6 x 40 fuses (3 outside, 3 inside), so the 175 inline is perfect.

On the note of cable, the amp requires 1/0 min.

I've mentioned this in another post, but I did the big 3 in 1/0 welding cable and ran the same cable to the back. I'm getting 13.8-9v when at full volume even after an extended period of time (1hr+). This is all on a stock alt and battery with no cap.

For anyone considering pushing 1000w+, I'd highly recommend welding cable. Sure, it's harder to work with but it's reliable and 1/0 will take anything you throw at it. I've pulled out a piece of 1/0 that was clamped in cap before and the copper was squished down to about 4g. Welding cable, on the other hand, is all copper, not air.

 

[Rocket61]

can you post pictures of your connection points and how you ran your wires please!!!!! <3

I don't have pics of the wire running to the back but all I did was run it through the firewall (drivers side) and under the plastic trim (the plastic piece to the left of your foot on the floor). The welding cable I used was stiff enough to push through under the column between the doors so I didn't have to pop that plastic off.

Not sure what you mean in regards to the connection points.

The "big 3" are:
1. alternator to pos battery
2. ground (chassis) to neg battery
3. engine to ground (chassis)

Make sure you grind away the paint before grounding to the chassis. I grounded the amp with the seat bolt in the back.