after the cv axle install...

[4runnerlee]

after the cv axle install...does this look right??

hey guys i was just wondering if my inner cv axle looks right or not. I was looking at the inner hub after i installed the new cv axle from o'reilly because i took the 4r out for a test drive and notice that there was a clicking noise. so i looked under the car and saw that the hub was not sitting like the other side. i can wiggle it and it has some play, in and out as well . So what do you guys think? do i need to take it out again? does it look right?

ohh and its not leaking soo, i dont know if it suppose to look like that or not, this was the first time i ever did a cv axle change.

 

[Brignola85]

Wow. The only thing I can think of is that you didn't torque down the spindle nut to 174ft lbs.. Now, obviously that would be common sense. Is it possible that you cross-threaded the nut?

 

[4runnerlee]

i did torque it and i don't think i cross treaded it. i can still drive it but it'll make a clicking noise when i go into drive. i think the only thing that i could think of is that maybe they give me the wrong axle or i didn't hit it hard enough for the hub to sit right, but then again i dont know.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Take it back out and try again. It is supposed to be flush.

I'll look tomorrow just to double check.

 

[cfranck1]

Looks ok, but that doesn't mean anything..

Did you notice if the old axle had the snap ring still attached to the shaft? (see pic), (where the shaft goes into diff)

When you put the new one in, did you jamb it into the diff until you feel it click into place??

 

[brian2sun]

The inboard joint doesn't look right to me. All the ones I've ever had had a lip around the outside of the joint that you can put the end of a crowbar or big screwdriver on it and hammer the CV in. I would definitely verify the part # with the store you bought it from, but maybe that's just what the O'reillys CVs look like, I dunno, but I don't think so.

If it is the correct CV, it looks like it's not in the diff all the way. Sometimes you really gotta pound them in there with a hammer because you have to basically pound the c-clip to compress while it goes in and then it locks in place once it's in far enough.

 

[4runnerlee]

thanks guys for the help...and cfranck1 yes the snap ring came out with the old one and the new one also had one too.

brian2sun i wasn't sure too about the axle because like you said the oem axle looks different too but o'reilly sale rep. said that, that was the axle for the my car. but anyway ill take it apart again tomorrow and try and see if it can be seated in more.

 

[Whackmaster]

thanks guys for the help...and cfranck1 yes the snap ring came out with the old one and the new one also had one too.

brian2sun i wasn't sure too about the axle because like you said the oem axle looks different too but o'reilly sale rep. said that, that was the axle for the my car. but anyway ill take it apart again tomorrow and try and see if it can be seated in more.

Don't believe half of the stuff that O'reilly people tell you, they don't have a clue. The CV's should look some what similar. When you ask for upper and lower ball joints and they ask you if that is for the front or back it makes you wonder. I go to NAPA now.

 

[cpepper]

I recently installed CVs from O'Reilly, and they did not look like that (yours appears to be round, whereas mine has the three lumps in it). Mine is a 99/5spd so maybe there is a difference. I definitely had to whack a crow bar with a hammer to get it to seat completely. FYI mine has very little in/out play after the snap ring caught.

 

[brian2sun]

Auto and 5 speed CVs are the same for our trucks. The manual hub CVs are different, but they were only offered in the Tacomas. Pretty sure you got the wrong CV OP.

 

[4runnerlee]

ok thanks im really going to pull everything out tomorrow now, because i'm starting to wonder too if i did get the wrong cv axle. ill go to napa this time, and yes the hub was all round no 3 hump thing like the oem ones.

 

[Whackmaster]

I have replaced CV's on everything from a 96-2002 (ADD & manual)(Runner&Tacoma)and they all have looked similar with the three protruding areas on them...I'm no expert but I think they gave you the wrong one.If you still have the old one try to match everything up with it.(length,spline count)

 

[Gerdo]

Ok, I'll be the the other side of the coin. Yes it looks fine. The aftermarket CVs are round/not 3 bump type. (see image below)

Now on the issue of auto part store CVs. They are usually made from junk steel that is poorly heat treated. True, they have a lifetime guarantee but when they break inside the front diff (inside the intermediate shaft) it sucks to get the broken part out. (notice that the splined end is broken off)

Those also tend to bind at full droop, to the point that the tire won't roll.

I have heard that the NAPA ones might be the exception to the junk.

 

[98OzarksRunner]

That looks like O'Reilly Master Pro CV shaft. I put one in last week. The rebuilt one had a ring around it where the seal contacted and it leaked oil like crazy (that's the second rebuilt CV axle from O'Reilly's that had that wear ring). Anyway the only one they had anywhere was their new Master Pro so I put it in and it looks just like that one. (The original and rebuilt one had the 3 cutouts.)

 

[LittleCaesar]

As 98 Ozarks said, that is the correct one for the 4runner. My inner housing does not have the three cut outs or tripod inner case but has worked well for me in 8 months. Given it was only $50 (I had credit with them), I did not buy the NAPA which is $115 around here.

Pull it out and try putting it in with the snap ring opening about 10 degrees from high noon either way. If it does not sit flush, take it back and pay the extra for the NAPA CV.

 

[prospectator]

I think they look fine. If the axle wasn't far enough into the front diff wouldn't that push the spindle away from the lower control arm making it difficult to fasten the spindle to the lower ball joint? I don't think you would've been able to bolt everything back together. The distance between the upright (spindle) and the diff didn't change.

Sounds like you may have gotten a bad CV.

 

[jmt2404]

Does anyone have a pic of a cv axle in the diff? preferably a pic of one that has been changed out with either an oreily's or auto zone axle in it? I just changed mine out as well and wondering what right is suppose to look like..

 

[jsmithjr732]

I recently installed CVs from O'Reilly, and they did not look like that (yours appears to be round, whereas mine has the three lumps in it). Mine is a 99/5spd so maybe there is a difference. I definitely had to whack a crow bar with a hammer to get it to seat completely. FYI mine has very little in/out play after the snap ring caught.

2nd that. The O'reilly's axles have less of a lip. Makes it harder to hammer in vs OEM.

 

[cpepper]

Here's the best I can do with a cell phone camera and without dropping the armor:



Note the dust guard is flush against the diff.

FYI I am using the O'Reilly reman CVs, not the "new" ones.

 

[4runnerlee]

alright, starting to take apart the cv axle to see if i need to hammer it in more or if its just cv axle, will update when im done. Thanks again guys for the help. :girl: