Air intakes-- need some advice/recommendations

So I've been thinking about upgrading my intake and I've been looking at the the K&N performance with the aluminum tube. I've seen some of the guys on yota tech dont really like them because they tend to let more dust into the engine.. What do yall think or recommend?
 
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So I've been thinking about upgrading my intake and I've been looking at the the K&N performance with the aluminum tube. I've seen some of the guys on yota tech dont really like them because they tend to let more dust into the engine.. What do yall think or recommend?

An intake is just that. People over think it. You want to free up air flow to the motor and keep it cool and dense. I would look up the deck plate mod. Its easy and will give you a little more power, better gas mileage and some more grunt sound. This mod is nice because it keeps water from inside the intake when offroading.

I have a cheap $40 ebay intake which some would call a hot air intake since it dont ahve a box too block the hot air. I went from 16.7mpg too 18.1mpg after the intake swap, it sounds awesome and I have no loss of power according to my butt dyno!
 
An intake is just that. People over think it. You want to free up air flow to the motor and keep it cool and dense. I would look up the deck plate mod. Its easy and will give you a little more power, better gas mileage and some more grunt sound. This mod is nice because it keeps water from inside the intake when offroading.

I have a cheap $40 ebay intake which some would call a hot air intake since it dont ahve a box too block the hot air. I went from 16.7mpg too 18.1mpg after the intake swap, it sounds awesome and I have no loss of power according to my butt dyno!

Deckplate mod is the best with a K&N drop in and make sure to do the ISR Mod too total it cost me around $60 to do the it all together (other than I got a huge discount ordering parts via my vendors that supply the shop I work at).
 
Deckplate mod is the best with a K&N drop in and make sure to do the ISR Mod too total it cost me around $60 to do the it all together (other than I got a huge discount ordering parts via my vendors that supply the shop I work at).

IMO, that's only partially correct. Go with a dry filter instead of an oiled one like the K&N. Do a quick search to see how many people have had MAF issues after installing a K&N. Deck plate mod & ISR mod are cheap, easy mods. Debatable about how much they actually do, but they make you 4Runner sound cool.
 
I tried the K&N air intake and I was NOT HAPPY with it. First off, the thing kept throwing codes and it was loud and not in a good way. Made the engine sound more annoying than beefy. There are also a few issues with the unit. I bought it brand new and the formed plastic air intake tube had two brass nuts molded in to accept the two mounting screws of the MAF sensor. These things worked their way out of the plastic and left a gap between what should have been a flush mounting surface. I called K&N and they sent me a new tube. After throwing codes several times a week, I replaced the MAF sensor. IT DID NOT HELP. So, I gave up, called K&N and they agreed to refund me the full price of the unit AND the MAF sensor. (I had to send them a copy of the receipt). I was pleased with K&N's service but unfortunately, not their product. Do the deck plate mod and you will be pleased at a dirt cheap price.
 
I tried the K&N air intake and I was NOT HAPPY with it. First off, the thing kept throwing codes and it was loud and not in a good way. Made the engine sound more annoying than beefy. There are also a few issues with the unit. I bought it brand new and the formed plastic air intake tube had two brass nuts molded in to accept the two mounting screws of the MAF sensor. These things worked their way out of the plastic and left a gap between what should have been a flush mounting surface. I called K&N and they sent me a new tube. After throwing codes several times a week, I replaced the MAF sensor. IT DID NOT HELP. So, I gave up, called K&N and they agreed to refund me the full price of the unit AND the MAF sensor. (I had to send them a copy of the receipt). I was pleased with K&N's service but unfortunately, not their product. Do the deck plate mod and you will be pleased at a dirt cheap price.

Dang k&n sucks on an open intake---ESP a DD

I had the same prob!!!

Good dry filter u can't beat

I like Baldwin and apexi
 
IMO, that's only partially correct. Go with a dry filter instead of an oiled one like the K&N. Do a quick search to see how many people have had MAF issues after installing a K&N. Deck plate mod & ISR mod are cheap, easy mods. Debatable about how much they actually do, but they make you 4Runner sound cool.

You can use a K and N just make sure too wash it good and through it in. People use k and n's dry in the race world all the time. Also you can add oil you just need a very light amount. Its usually sold with too much and needs cleaned.
 
You can use a K and N just make sure too wash it good and through it in. People use k and n's dry in the race world all the time. Also you can add oil you just need a very light amount. Its usually sold with too much and needs cleaned.

Thats what I was thinking, my dad has a k&n in his tacoma and he washed it and used the recharging kit before he ever put the filter in since it seems tend to throw the 02 sensor
 
I tried the K&N air intake and I was NOT HAPPY with it. First off, the thing kept throwing codes and it was loud and not in a good way. Made the engine sound more annoying than beefy. There are also a few issues with the unit. I bought it brand new and the formed plastic air intake tube had two brass nuts molded in to accept the two mounting screws of the MAF sensor. These things worked their way out of the plastic and left a gap between what should have been a flush mounting surface. I called K&N and they sent me a new tube. After throwing codes several times a week, I replaced the MAF sensor. IT DID NOT HELP. So, I gave up, called K&N and they agreed to refund me the full price of the unit AND the MAF sensor. (I had to send them a copy of the receipt). I was pleased with K&N's service but unfortunately, not their product. Do the deck plate mod and you will be pleased at a dirt cheap price.

Dang k&n sucks on an open intake---ESP a DD

I had the same prob!!!

Good dry filter u can't beat

I like Baldwin and apexi

Yall worry me..... It seem people are like 50/50 on them but the only reason they interest me is because my dad has used them on multiple cars including his tacoma and have loved them but I just dont know..
 
the isr and deck plate mod work just as good as a 200 dollar intake as for the filter id go with the afe dry flow filter
 
So yall dont think the trade off of better air flow for "more" dirt allowed through is worth it?

I don't know what will get you the most dirt (probably the factory-style paper filter is cleanest) but no amount of power is worth ANY dirt in your engine. A new engine will cost a lot more than any perceived gain in power is worth. At most you'll get 5 or 6 HP with air filter mods on these trucks, and most of the popular mods probably lose power but sound cool. I'll stick with a clean reliable engine. If I want to go fast, I don't drive my 4Runner (I drive it when I want to go 'anywhere'). It will be a slug no matter how many mods I do to it.
 
I tried the K&N air intake and I was NOT HAPPY with it. First off, the thing kept throwing codes and it was loud and not in a good way. Made the engine sound more annoying than beefy. There are also a few issues with the unit. I bought it brand new and the formed plastic air intake tube had two brass nuts molded in to accept the two mounting screws of the MAF sensor. These things worked their way out of the plastic and left a gap between what should have been a flush mounting surface. I called K&N and they sent me a new tube. After throwing codes several times a week, I replaced the MAF sensor. IT DID NOT HELP. So, I gave up, called K&N and they agreed to refund me the full price of the unit AND the MAF sensor. (I had to send them a copy of the receipt). I was pleased with K&N's service but unfortunately, not their product. Do the deck plate mod and you will be pleased at a dirt cheap price.

Probably the reason it threw a code (if it was the full intake) is that they make more power (and maybe increase fuel economy slightly) by increasing the diameter of the tube where the MAF sits. This causes more air to flow than the ECM thinks is flowing, thus leaning out the mixture. Factory engines are tuned a little on the rich side to prevent excessive detonation (especially if you get some bad gas). So by leaning the mixture slightly you can gain a few (very few on these engines) HP. If it is too lean the ECM will detect it and throw a code.

This is a 'low budget' method of increasing power and is frowned on by engine tuners. Most of the time it works fine, but if you get some bad gas you could run too lean at full-throttle and fry the motor (though they usually only lean it out a 'safe' amount). A tuner knows just how far to push the mixture; a one-size-fits-all mod like a K&N intake works most of the time but usually with minimal gains.

If you get the car tuned (on a dyno, by someone who knows what they're doing), you can probably get more power from the engine with the stock intake than you gain with the K&N (and no tuning) since the power increase is not from more intake airflow but from leaning out the mixture (these motors have more than enough intake airflow from the factory without any mods - they use the same intakes on the S/C motors and they need a LOT more airflow than the N/A motors will ever need). But the amount of power gained from a dyno tune would not be worth the cost (IMHO). As I said in my post above, my truck will always be a slug. If I want to go fast I drive something else. If I want to go 'anywhere' I drive the 4Runner.
 
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I have the K&N Cold Air Intake. I have been happy with it for years now. I believe I installed it in 2004. Not problems yet. I keep it clean and well oiled.
 
I have the K&N Cold Air Intake. I have been happy with it for years now. I believe I installed it in 2004. Not problems yet. I keep it clean and well oiled.

I'm biased towards K&N but i'm looking into the aluminum one, do you think the trade off is worth it? (I also wouldnt consider Va a dry dusty area)
 
Thats what I was thinking, my dad has a k&n in his tacoma and he washed it and used the recharging kit before he ever put the filter in since it seems tend to throw the 02 sensor

He's putting to much of the recharge oil stuff on it, its sucking the oil onto his MAF and causing issues with the AFR
 
He's putting to much of the recharge oil stuff on it, its sucking the oil onto his MAF and causing issues with the AFR

My bad I meant he cleaned it before ever installing it to prevent it from throwing codes since the k&n in general tends to throw codes from what I've seen. Sorry for being unclear



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Probably the reason it threw a code (if it was the full intake) is that they make more power (and maybe increase fuel economy slightly) by increasing the diameter of the tube where the MAF sits. This causes more air to flow than the ECM thinks is flowing, thus leaning out the mixture. Factory engines are tuned a little on the rich side to prevent excessive detonation (especially if you get some bad gas). So by leaning the mixture slightly you can gain a few (very few on these engines) HP. If it is too lean the ECM will detect it and throw a code.

This is a 'low budget' method of increasing power and is frowned on by engine tuners. Most of the time it works fine, but if you get some bad gas you could run too lean at full-throttle and fry the motor (though they usually only lean it out a 'safe' amount). A tuner knows just how far to push the mixture; a one-size-fits-all mod like a K&N intake works most of the time but usually with minimal gains.

If you get the car tuned (on a dyno, by someone who knows what they're doing), you can probably get more power from the engine with the stock intake than you gain with the K&N (and no tuning) since the power increase is not from more intake airflow but from leaning out the mixture (these motors have more than enough intake airflow from the factory without any mods - they use the same intakes on the S/C motors and they need a LOT more airflow than the N/A motors will ever need). But the amount of power gained from a dyno tune would not be worth the cost (IMHO). As I said in my post above, my truck will always be a slug. If I want to go fast I drive something else. If I want to go 'anywhere' I drive the 4Runner.

The extra air flow added with an intake will and is compensated by the ECU and O2 sensor. The ecu has fuel trims and once they start too change they o2 sensor sees this and adjusts the AFR. An intake is not enough to throw the CEL. Its usually the oil coating the MAF and causing the CEL.
 
The extra air flow added with an intake will and is compensated by the ECU and O2 sensor. The ecu has fuel trims and once they start too change they o2 sensor sees this and adjusts the AFR. An intake is not enough to throw the CEL. Its usually the oil coating the MAF and causing the CEL.

It might be oil on the MAF causing the CEL. I've heard about that problem with K&N on other vehicles too. But the ECU and O2 sensor only compensate for the additional airflow at part-throttle. At WOT the ECU runs open-loop and uses table-data (ignoring O2 sensor values). Leaning the mixture is how the aftermarket intakes make more power (aside from a little cold air on some vehicles, though most, like our 4Runners, get cold air from the wheel well anyway so they are already 'cold air intakes'). It's not actually 'extra airflow' but more air running past the MAF sensor than it thinks due to the larger diameter of the tube at that point. The intakes don't add extra airflow; they might allow for more airflow if the engine needs it, but ours won't without some more mods, like cams, ported heads, or an S/C.

Aftermarket intakes are about the biggest rip-off in the auto industry. They don't increase airflow (unless the engine needs it due to other mods). The question is NOT how much air does the filter flow? The question is how much air does my engine need? If my engine only needs 250 CFM to make full power putting a 1000 CFM filter on it won't increase power at all. In fact it might decrease it at some points in the RPM curve. The real gain in the aftermarket intakes comes from leaning the mixture by fooling the MAF/ECU. But they do increase noise and more noise = more power, right?

Not trying to be a jerk but why spend all that money on something that won't really make much of a difference? (I've been driving longer than most of you guys have been alive and have wasted lots of money on things that don't work, but we were sure they did!) Put the $200 into some sliders or toward a bumper or winch. You might actually get some benefit from them some day, and won't have to worry about destroying your engine because it let a bunch of dust into it when you were off-roading. We drive slugs. Learn to live with it. :)
 
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I was just looking at them again and k&n makes a filter wrap that doesnt look much more than a polyester bag but says to be used in very dusty conditions and helps prevent water
 

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