Airbox Bolt

Stuck CAPS

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Is the bolt closest to the grille for removing the airbox on the V6 on the intake manifold? I snapped mine, it's flush with the block, and if it's not actually in the intake manifold, it'll be a lot easier to get out.
 
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I believe my camera flipped them upside down, sorry if they did!
 

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“A Pic Is Like A Thousand Words”! I also understand all of us d/n understand the need or into Pics. Enough said. Am I pointing to the problem? Looking at my 07 V6 I feel this might be the problem. If so w/o looking close, drilling and extracting the broken threads should have you back in business.

Why are they snapping is my question. That is a long small machine screw (per pulling mine). Some one said if it threads through it will be fixed. Will it, due to length and where will it go (from a diagram or personal experience if possible). I installed mine finger tight vs hand tight.

Plus, lean on a friend with drills, extractors and experience would be my suggestion vs purchasing due the experience being important. Good Luck!
 

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“A Pic Is Like A Thousand Words”! I also understand all of us d/n understand the need or into Pics. Enough said. Am I pointing to the problem? Looking at my 07 V6 I feel this might be the problem. If so w/o looking close, drilling and extracting the broken threads should have you back in business.

Why are they snapping is my question. That is a long small machine screw (per pulling mine). Some one said if it threads through it will be fixed. Will it, due to length and where will it go (from a diagram or personal experience if possible). I installed mine finger tight vs hand tight.

Plus, lean on a friend with drills, extractors and experience would be my suggestion vs purchasing due the experience being important. Good Luck!

That is indeed the bolt. I overtorqued it after cleaning my TB, :/ Stupid mistake, I know. I need it out, because I'm getting a CAI soon, and need that mount point.
 
If the break is close enough to the surface. You might use a dermal and proper wheel to cut a slot and use a screwdriver to rem the threads. W/O the head there s/n be a load on the threads resisting turning them. If so, try it hot and cold with a little WD-40 etc.

Would this cause the TR4 to fail the inspection? Other Texans and I could fix this with bailing wire. LOL
 
If the break is close enough to the surface. You might use a dermal and proper wheel to cut a slot and use a screwdriver to rem the threads. W/O the head there s/n be a load on the threads resisting turning them. If so, try it hot and cold with a little WD-40 etc.

Would this cause the TR4 to fail the inspection? Other Texans and I could fix this with bailing wire. LOL

Actually, I had thought about doing this earlier. I just was wondering, if that could strip away the top, so the bolt is set further down. Also, could I use a pipe to gain more torque if it's seized?
 
Actually, I had thought about doing this earlier. I just was wondering, if that could strip away the top, so the bolt is set further down. Also, could I use a pipe to gain more torque if it's seized?

I am not following you on your pipe ides. There should be very little torque on the threads. If there is a reverse drilling drill bit, it would probably bring the threads out or leave a hole for the extractor.

The critical key will be to drill in the center of the threads vs touching the wall to easily remove the threads.
 
I am not following you on your pipe ides. There should be very little torque on the threads. If there is a reverse drilling drill bit, it would probably bring the threads out or leave a hole for the extractor.

The critical key will be to drill in the center of the threads vs touching the wall to easily remove the threads.

Alright, thank you!
 

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