Alignment spec help

[rfuree11]

So I was recently in an accident in a snow storm we had here. I was going around a turn at like 15 mph. I had the wheel cranked to the right and still slammed into a curb on the left and knocked the alignment way off.

I got the car back. It seems to track ok and everyone is telling me that it is aligned properly. Today, I got the spec sheet from the body shop (they sublet the alignment work out) and it looks to be all kinds of wonky. My biggest concerns are the caster and the SAI. I'm completely stock, other than the 265-70-17 duratracs that I have (which should have zero effect on the alignment).

I've been doing some research and it looks like the SAI could be caused by a few things- an incompetent alignment tech or a bent LCA. What are your thoughts? Could a bad rack cause this? I have 75k on it, could it be from worn (non-xreas) shocks?

Edit: I spoke with the body shop and they told me that the adjuster bolts were seized, what kind of effect would this have on the specs if everything line up but the caster?

Thanks in advance.

L/R (specified range)

Camber:
-.39 / -.38 (-.9 to .60)
Caster:
2.37 / 2.54 (2.47 to 3.97)
Toe:
0 / 1/32" (-1/32 to 1/16)
SAI:
15.83 / 17.61 (11.9 to 13.4)
Included Angle
15.44 / 17.23 (11.00 to 14.00)

 

[dadigab]

SAI helps the wheels to naturally return to a "straight" position much like the way shopping cart wheels always return to same position when pushed straight even if you try hard not to allow them. While truck is on level smooth surface(vacant parking lot) turn wheels to lock and start to roll forward and release the steering wheel, do the wheels return to straight ahead in both directions? Doesn't have to be perfectly straight but straight. If so you may not have to much issue with SAI being out of specs. The included angle is what popped out to be the biggest concern. I would suspect either strut and/or steering knuckle is bent not knowing if anything was replaced. Would not rule out LCA. Steering rack should not effect SAI. Again not seeing damage caused by curb, it may have moved strut tower.

Physics tends to play havoc on suspensions. Your talking about a nearly 3 ton truck moving at least 15 m.h.p. against a stationary object something(s) has got to give. If the steering knuckle and strut was replaced I would pursue having frame, LCA (at mounts and at ball joints), and strut towers measured. Alignment techs often play the game, if damaged side is to adjustable limits then we will readjust good side so numbers are closer to each other. BTW which side hit curb?

 

[rfuree11]

Left side hit the curb. The shop didn't want to touch the adjustment bolts out of fear that they would damage them. I'm actually an appraiser for another company, so my view is that if the bolt on the left side breaks, or they have issues with it, the insurance company should cover that bolt (obvi, if it's an issue with the right side, then I would owe for it) The alignment shop keeps saying nothing is bent, however.

 

[dadigab]

Your numbers are close to each other. You maybe OK but I would accurately measure thread depth across the width of both front tires and and put it in writing (include current mileage) and remeasure every 3K miles. You should have repair warranty, protect yourself. May even have second shop confirm alignment. I don't know what equipment was used to do original alignment some are more accurate than others as well as techs for that matter. Watch for possible bump steer as well.

 

[Sungod]

I wouldn't worry about SAI. It isn't an adjustable angle. I would be more concerned with the caster. That is what will cause wander and pull. It looks low. That won't case a pull, but with low caster your get more wander. Kind of like when you put a lot of weight over the wheel in a wheel barrow. Why didn't they adjust it?

 

[rfuree11]

They said the bolts were seized. I think I'm going to bring it back, because everything being on the borderline makes me nervous for tire wear and highway wandering. The last time I had an alignment done, caster on both sides was set to 2.9.

Edit: also, you say not to worry about SAi as it is a factory set angle, but if something in the suspension is bent from this accident, that would throw it off. I have a feeling that the shop is mucking around with other measurements to make everything come into or close to spec. Kind of like robbing Peter to pay Paul. I just don't know why the SAI and included angles are so high on the right side as well.

 

[Rattlecanpaint]

Caster is a non tire wearing angle. (Basically it is the rearward tilt of the strut assembly.) What is does is, 1.) allow for the steering wheel to return to center and 2.) assist in high speed strait line tracking. Being out by that little amount most likely won't affect either item. What was replaced by the body shop? And when was the last alignment you had at? If it's been a long time since the last alignment, it could very well be out from just normal wear and not from the accident.

 

[rfuree11]

Nothing was replaced. That alignment sheet was after the alignment.

 

[nevada]

id be more concerned with the negative camber, that will give you tire wear.

stuck bolts is no excuse, unstick them, and adjust the thing correctly.

i would be taking it back,

 

[Sungod]

There could be something bent, but that is why you have the ability to adjust for it. The alignment is in spec for the angles you can adjust. If you area looking at making an insurance claim because your SAI is off a few degrees, you could probably do so. I don't think it would be worth it. You would likely end up replacing a lot of parts to try to get it back. I would save the insurance claim for a deep water crossing or something of more damage.

 

[rfuree11]

Just an update to this thread. I brought it back on Jan 22 and they redid the alignment. Here are the specs from the second time they ran it.

L/R (specified range)

Camber:
-.44 / -.41 (-.9 to .60)
Caster:
2.72 / 2.73 (2.47 to 3.97)
Toe:
0 / 1/32" (-1/32 to 1/16)
SAI:
16.97 / 15.24 (11.9 to 13.4)
Included Angle
16.53 / 14.84 (11.00 to 14.00)

The car seems to drive straight, but I noticed the starting signs of VERY light feathering on the left front tire now. The tires are brand new (I got them replaced at the same time as the accident) and have a mold mark on inside edge. The rear of the ridge is worn out on the left side, while the right side has minimal wear. I know I'm being super OCD, but these tires were expensive and I'd really like to get as much mileage out of them as possible. There's about 1600 miles on them now. I have 76,000 on the truck and I need new shocks (they make a nasty clunking noise as I'm driving). What are the odds this is an issue with the shocks vs an issue from the accident? Could this just be normal and due to the drainage sloping of the road?

Left Tire. The top is the front of the car. Note the line is mostly worn, especially towards the rear:

Right Tire. Notice the minimal wear straight across:

 

[Sungod]

What was the total toe? On the front left and right toe numbers mean very little since they are connected. Toe is what causes tire wear. You want it to be slightly positive or toed in so that it will go to zero when pushed. Front wheel drives are the opposite. They start out toed out because the power deliver pushes them in.

 

[rfuree11]

Total toe is at 0.

 

[lehiguy]

Those numbers look ok. Seized adjustment cams are common, not the shop's fault, it just happens from corrosion and the fact they they very rarely get turned.

 

[rfuree11]

They were able to free up the cams- that's why everything is in spec now. Now I'm just trying to figure out why I'm getting abnormal tire wear. I'm hoping it's the shocks. I'm getting the TT Ultimate next month, so we'll see if that fixes the problem. I'm just trying to rule out anything bent.

 

[Sungod]

zero toe while sitting will cause your toe to go negative or toe out while driving. This will cause wear or feathering on the inside edge. That is of course if their machine was properly calibrated prior to your alignment.

 

[rfuree11]

Wouldn't that cause it to go out on both sides? I'm debating whether I should even get another alignment right now because I'll have to do it again in a month. I know I could probably give the tie rod a half twist on each side without any issues, but don't really want to without having a reading. It's really not bad right now and I doubt I'll be going over 2k miles before the new lift.

 

[Sungod]

It could cause the issue across the face of the tread, but not all the time. Some tires will show it more than others. Typically it is edge wear because what happens is that your tires when toed in want to meet in the middle and they drag back every so often which is what causes the feathering. The reverse happens when toed out. Your tires want to go in the direction they are pointed and since they are connected in the front your want them parallel. If they are not, something has to give and the only flexible part is the rubber and the edge of the tires is what takes the majority of the rubbing. Just like if you drag your shoe.