Alternator or battery?

Dunngeon

New member
Hey T4R,

I decided to check my battery voltage this morning and got some....interesting results.

With engine off after a drive voltage is 6.81volts

With engine on voltage is only 7.21 volts.

the odd thing is that my car works perfectly fine. It cranks fine, everything inside works well.

I'm at a loss as to why.

The battery is original, the 4runner is a 2007 with 115k miles on it.

Cheers!

Ryan
 
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I am gonna say either your multimeter is bad or your technique is.

Your car can't start with 7 volts, that is barely half the necessary voltage to make it happen.

So.... if 7 volts isn't enough to start... but the car starts.... what do you think is going on?
 
I am gonna say either your multimeter is bad or your technique is.

Your car can't start with 7 volts, that is barely half the necessary voltage to make it happen.

So.... if 7 volts isn't enough to start... but the car starts.... what do you think is going on?

this.

you must have been reading the wrong scale or something.
7v wont do it.
 
I am gonna say either your multimeter is bad or your technique is.

Your car can't start with 7 volts, that is barely half the necessary voltage to make it happen.

So.... if 7 volts isn't enough to start... but the car starts.... what do you think is going on?

I just used the multimeter on my dirtbike and it worked fine (4h ago), the terminals and connectors are clean enough for a good reading. So yeah...... Super confused.

Just decided to recheck the multimeter on my bike's battery...... It's fried :smash:

Guess that's what I get for not buying a Fluke
 
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I think you had the meter leads in the wrong place in the meter and you were set to read amps. Some meter have three places for the leads. You got it crossed and could have taken out the meter or direct shorted the cycle battery if you had in the amp mode.
 
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I think you had the meter leads in the wrong place in the meter and you were set to read amps. Some meter have three places for the leads. You got it crossed and could have taken out the meter or direct shorted the cycle battery if you had in the amp mode.

Nope, didn't happen. It was on DC voltage, 20 volts with the leads in the right space

hwQ074B.jpg
 
On some of the cheaper meters (not saying your is)...if its own battery gets low, it will read incorrectly. (Flukes tell you if the battery is low.)

For example, those meters you can get free (or nearly free) at Harbor Freight with coupon...if the battery inside the meter gets low, it will read incorrectly. Some meters use the internal battery as a reference voltage source, so if it is 'wrong', it will 'read' wrong.

Try replacing the battery inside the meter first before trashing it...

(to be honest...the picture of your meter looks exactly like those given out by Harbor Freight...except the color of the housing and 'manufacturer' label...)
 
The harbor freight is just as bad, in fact, they probably come from the same crappy chinese factory and are just re-badged.

I had a harbor.. it refused to work right and I ended up buying an actual one from Sears. A real one is 20 bucks and will come from the Chinese factory on the other side of town from a company large enough to ensure quality control.
 
Most batteries won't start a vehicle with less than 10.5v, 9v is probably the lowest a 12V Starter circuit can muster and it will barely go at that. Something is wrong with your meter if the car starts fine and its reading 7.12v

Also if you have the vehicle running and you check the voltage, you should be seeing about 13~14v, this will let you know if the meter is accurate. Most cheapo meters are very inaccurate, here's a section of the stickied http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/132953-toolbox-how-use.html that describes what I am talking about.

DMM (Digital Multi-Meter) and/or DVOM (Digital Volt & Ohm Meter)
~This is your go to tool for pretty much anything electrical, I recommend everyone try to have one of these in their toolbox for electrical gremlins. We'll go into detail about using this tool and the other electrical equipment in another section.

Lets start with defining the difference between a DMM & DVOM, a Digital Multi-Meter offers functions such as Resistance (Ohm), DC Voltage, Diode Checking, AC Voltage, Hertz, and possibly other types of measurements. A Digital Volt & Ohm Meter, can offer you pretty much the same, the difference comes down to semantics almost. Truthfully by definition, the DVOM will be more simplistic while the DMM is more robust. But a lot of people will use the terminology interchangeably. For the purposes of this section I will refer only to DMMs.

DMMs are relatively cheap these days, you can get a decent one from Harbor Freight or your local Autoparts store for cheap. But what about guys who's devotion to their all mighty Fluke 87 or 88? Is it worth the $800 or so to get a DMM kit from Fluke when I can spend less than $150 for something that does the same thing?

Well, again it depends on what your needs are. The main difference between say your cheap DMM and something like a Fluke 88 is quality, again you get what you pay for and in this case you're paying for accuracy and speed. The cheap DMMs are not going to be as accurate as their more expensive counterparts, granted most people don't need accuracy to the .000 of voltage or highly accurate Ohm readings; but it does help. The more expensive units will also have features such as auto ranging (will automatically scale the measurement, i.e. it will switch from Volts to Mili-Volts to provide better resolution.), retain lowest and highest measurement made, some will even make graphs for you! I personally love my Fluke 88 and it has been an amazing tool for many uses, in my experience you really should make accuracy a consideration in the investment of a DMM. Vehicles these days use as little as 1volt on their network lines, an error as little as .02volt (that's 20 mili-volts) can cause errors and light up the dash!
 
Geese... I'm a electronics engineering manager and I would have to fire you.
Toss that POS. Bet they installed the knob on meter wrong.
 
Agree with putting in new battery. Also open the back and see if there is a calibration screw. Get a new d cell and test it. Adjusting the screw until it reads 1.5 v.
 
Also, you guys know that you should turn on the meter first before putting the probes on the DUT (device under test)...
 

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