Alternators - Different Years = Different Output

[cbr900boy]

Hey guys,

Looking to replace the alternator for my 98. After doing some research, the output for 96-98 3rd gens are 70 amps and the 99-02s are 80 amps. Obviously I would like to get the 80 amp version. My question is can someone confirm that it would be plug and play? Thanks.

 

[MACT4R]

Hey guys,

Looking to replace the alternator for my 98. After doing some research, the output for 96-98 3rd gens are 70 amps and the 99-02s are 80 amps. Obviously I would like to get the 80 amp version. My question is can someone confirm that it would be plug and play? Thanks.

It should be the same housing but more copper wound. You can get yours rebuilt and have a higher output amp. Look at qualitypowerauto.com at yucaipa. I called them and its $200 to get rebuilt for 160 amp. I was considering it with my dual battery but just had to change wire gauge to resolve drop in voltage.

Why do you need HO alternator? Oem is good. I run dual battery with it.

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[StreetCreeper]

Hey guys,

Looking to replace the alternator for my 98. After doing some research, the output for 96-98 3rd gens are 70 amps and the 99-02s are 80 amps. Obviously I would like to get the 80 amp version. My question is can someone confirm that it would be plug and play? Thanks.

Yep should be plug n play as I have a crappy autozone alternator and I "upgraded" it to the 80a version. No issues installing it and it works fine (aside from it not being OEM). Once it dies I'm going back to OEM but 80a.

 

[HammerTime]

The 5vzfe Tundra has an even larger one still. Youll have to change the drive pulley on it, but thats a piece of cake. I've got one sitting in my shed from a JDM swap I just did (Toyota Granvia has the same alternator as Tundra, part number is 27060-62220), let me know if you are interested. That would be a lot cheaper than having one rebuilt.

 

[psraff]

The 5vzfe Tundra has an even larger one still. Youll have to change the drive pulley on it, but thats a piece of cake.

Do you know what amperage it is, and is it direct bolt up?

 

[jhfleet]

I replaced the 70A Denso alternator in my '96 3.4 T4R with a new 80A Denso that was OEM for a 99-02 3.4 T4R. Fits and works perfectly.

 

[cbr900boy]

Thanks everyone for your input, I think I will just go with a Denso 80amp since I'm not running any major electronics. Amazon Prime has it for $155 with 2 day shipping and I don't have to provide my core.

Another question for you guys. I did a little wheeling yesterday and noticed that a rotten egg smell was coming from my battery as well as smoke emitting from the battery vents. After doing some research, the battery is basically toast. My battery is about a year old and it's an Oreily's Platinum AGM battery. I made it to Oreily's and they switched it out no problem. The guy said it's either a bad battery or my alternator over charging it, he said most likely the alternator is the culprit. My voltage meter sits at 14.2 volts with the motor running so It doesn't seem like alternator unless I'm missing something. Any electrical gurus out there?

 

[StreetCreeper]

Thanks everyone for your input, I think I will just go with a Denso 80amp since I'm not running any major electronics. Amazon Prime has it for $155 with 2 day shipping and I don't have to provide my core.

Another question for you guys. I did a little wheeling yesterday and noticed that a rotten egg smell was coming from my battery as well as smoke emitting from the battery vents. After doing some research, the battery is basically toast. My battery is about a year old and it's an Oreily's Platinum AGM battery. I made it to Oreily's and they switched it out no problem. The guy said it's either a bad battery or my alternator over charging it, he said most likely the alternator is the culprit. My voltage meter sits at 14.2 volts with the motor running so It doesn't seem like alternator unless I'm missing something. Any electrical gurus out there?

That sounds like a decent price for an OEM alternator, I might have to go look on Amazon now for that too

I'm about as far from an electrical guru as one can get, but I've heard many tales of crappy alternators shortening the life of batteries. Not sure if it's just a voltage thing or something else, but if I recall correctly (good chance I'm not) the battery acts as a kind of filter/shield for any weird or extreme electrical spikes/whatever that the alternator might send into the charge system. So your battery takes/absorbs most of the hits first before the rest of the vehicle and electronics. So screwy alternators can cause screwy batteries...I think. Might have been really stoned though and just imagining this too imp:

 

[RyanNapoleon]

I put a 140 amp Cadillac/gm alternator in mine. Almost a direct bolt-up. I plan on more electrical stuff and it was only like $60 more so I said wtf. Search for posts in the install and the model alternator. Had it on for 15k miles and it's just like stock.

 

[DK327]

I recently replaced mine (17 years old OEM @ 240+K miles, still running good) with a 140A from Amazon for $120 + shipping. I have the big 2/3 and it fluctuates 13.6V-14.1V according to Scangauge. Also changed the battery, went with Interstate Megatron Plus. So far so good, but kept my old alt (and batt) just in case... You never know with these no name alternators claiming to be high output.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY28M8G/

 

[thegipper]

Thanks everyone for your input, I think I will just go with a Denso 80amp since I'm not running any major electronics. Amazon Prime has it for $155 with 2 day shipping and I don't have to provide my core.

Another question for you guys. I did a little wheeling yesterday and noticed that a rotten egg smell was coming from my battery as well as smoke emitting from the battery vents. After doing some research, the battery is basically toast. My battery is about a year old and it's an Oreily's Platinum AGM battery. I made it to Oreily's and they switched it out no problem. The guy said it's either a bad battery or my alternator over charging it, he said most likely the alternator is the culprit. My voltage meter sits at 14.2 volts with the motor running so It doesn't seem like alternator unless I'm missing something. Any electrical gurus out there?

14.2 volts sounds about right with it running. You probably just got a bad battery.

 

[kolelt]

The 5vzfe Tundra has an even larger one still. Youll have to change the drive pulley on it, but thats a piece of cake. I've got one sitting in my shed from a JDM swap I just did (Toyota Granvia has the same alternator as Tundra, part number is 27060-62220), let me know if you are interested. That would be a lot cheaper than having one rebuilt.

I think I have this alternator your talking about. It's of a JDM engine and much bigger then my original one. But the pulley was different. So all I did was use those brushes and it fixed my original alternator. I did save the bigger alternator though.

 

[HammerTime]

I think I have this alternator your talking about. It's of a JDM engine and much bigger then my original one. But the pulley was different. So all I did was use those brushes and it fixed my original alternator. I did save the bigger alternator though.

You probably do. It looks like it would be a direct bolt on, but I'm not sure. Some day when I run out of other things to do I may try to swap pulleys and see what happens. I'm still not sure what the output is rated at on it. The outer case is certainly a bit larger. I have a 20" LED bar on my 00 but it doesn't draw much and I don't use it much anyway, so I don't have much need for higher output. But having a spare is never a bad idea.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

I looked up the Tundra Alt for the 4.7 and its 130a and for the 3.4l it's still 80a.


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[Killer Squirrel]

I don't know about how it fits but here is info on the 140/150 amp alternators. It was a swap we did on the Mk4 Supras, we had to grind just a bit of one of the flanges to get it to fit on the mounting bracket and change out the harness plug from a 3 pin to a 4 pin to get it to fit. I did this on mine before I sold the car last year. I still have my stock Mk4 alternator in the garage so I'll check if it fits the 4R physically. If these fit they would be a great swap.

Some of the Sequoias came with a 150 amp, I am not sure how to tell which came with that over the 130. I was able to find the 150 at a salvage yard when I did the swap in my Supra a few years ago.

150 amp - 27060-0F050

130A Alternator p/n is 27060-0F040
SEQUOIA 03-07 (4.7L, 2UZFE eng), 130 amp
TUNDRA 03-06 8 cyl, 130 amp

 

[cbr900boy]

So I replaced my alternator with the Denso and found out something interesting. Since I've acquired my rig used my voltage has always been around 14.2 which I though was normal. I was wrong, after doing some research a working voltage regulator is supposed to output anywhere between 13.2 to 14.2 (approximately) depending on the temperature and charging needs. When cold, you should see an output of 14.2, when hot it should drop to 13.2. These are approximate numbers. This variance is by design so the alternator does not overcharge a lead acid battery which involves a chemical process that is sensitive to heat. So in my case, my voltage regulator was stuck at charging 14.2 volts in 100 degree temps on a fully charged battery. This caused my battery to produce hydrogen sulfide which smells like rotten eggs.

With my new Denso alternator my voltage hits around 14.1 when I start it in the morning and eventually lowers down to about 13.4. This never happen with my old alternator.

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If your new alt has less cooling than your old one it will run a lower voltage because the temp sensor is actually part of the voltage regulator. The cooler the regulator the higher the voltage.


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[DK327]

With my new Denso alternator my voltage hits around 14.1 when I start it in the morning and eventually lowers down to about 13.4. This never happen with my old alternator.

My experience with a new alternator and battery is similar. Starts out at 14.1V and normalizes at 13.6-13.8V.

 

[DK327]

Just as a follow up, I noticed when it's cold out, say below freezing, the new alternator voltage gets as high as 14.5V when I 1st start up before dropping back down to 14.2V when the truck's warmed up so I'm thinking it's more of an ambient temp thing... It got as cold as -25F with -40F windchills this past winter and the highest I saw the alternator was at 14.6V...of course my brake lines were also frozen at that time, fun times...

 

[amalik]

I recently replaced mine (17 years old OEM @ 240+K miles, still running good) with a 140A from Amazon for $120 + shipping. I have the big 2/3 and it fluctuates 13.6V-14.1V according to Scangauge. Also changed the battery, went with Interstate Megatron Plus. So far so good, but kept my old alt (and batt) just in case... You never know with these no name alternators claiming to be high output.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AY28M8G/

That's odd, never heard of the manufacturer. Why not go CS144 route?