Always-on power

[Bumbo]

How do you plan on not letting the battery die? I'm genuinely curious.

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

Most all fridges have an internal low voltage disconnect, but for single battery builds I have always included a BlueSea mLVD. I use them for dual battery setups as well, good piece of mind and not that expensive to add between the battery and accessory fuse panel.

This ensures other accessories like chargers and small inverters don't drain the battery, which often ends up being the case.

m-LVD Low Voltage Disconnect - Blue Sea Systems

 

[Cezar]

So you ended up replacing a shitty Chinese plug with another shitty but expensive and not Chinese plug just to realize that your going to go to the Anderson power poles anyway witch was the first suggestion? You could also look into xt60 or xt90 connectors, There are TONS of dc power connectors better then power poles once you start looking.

Jeff

I don't necessarily think you're wrong. When I googled the connectors the page I landed on did not indicate they did sockets so I wrote them off.

I definitely agree that the Blue Sea stuff is utter trash and I worry about people using it for marine use burning down their boat while out on the water now having seen the plug up close. Absolutely NOT marine grade in any way.

Regardless, I have it installed, it works, it solves the problem I had and I'm onto other things.

BTW I ended up reworking the always-on power. Since the rear plug is straight to the battery I no longer needed the front always-on. So I replaced the jumper wire with a run to a switch in the front panel.

I milled out the switch blank and put a rocker in. Actually I did two so now I can toggle my front cig as well as a dual usb fast charger that I put into one of the blank ports on the center console.

 

[shine]

Got this in. It's not twist lock.

It seems like it will work well enough to not bother sending it back, but it simply isn't twist-lock. I mean, it's labeled as such, it just isn't in practice.

Oh well, it's at least better than a typical cigarette lighter outlet.

You're right, it's not twist *lock*. However, when it's aligned properly with the triangle markers on the socket it takes considerable more force to pull the plug.
Hence it solves the problem of the plug getting unplugged as I bounce along the trail.

 

[Bumbo]

I definitely agree that the Blue Sea stuff is utter trash and I worry about people using it for marine use burning down their boat while out on the water now having seen the plug up close. Absolutely NOT marine grade in any way.

I very much disagree with that statement... Blue Sea ranks on my top 3 of vendors for quality and reliable DC distribution equipment for mobile applications. Quite the opposite of "utter trash".

I use them, along with Victron Energy and Bussmann/Eaton on a regular basis.

What were you expecting from a cigarette lighter outlet aside from it just meeting its spec requirements?

 

[importman]

I thought about doing this always on power mod until I saw that it affects the front plug too. I don't always use a GPS because I use Waze on my phone through my head unit. But when I do, I like to be able to just cut the engine off and know that the GPS is going to turn off too. I may do like Cezar and put in a switch so I can keep the ignition only power to the front and have 24/7 at the rear.

 

[Cezar]

I very much disagree with that statement... Blue Sea ranks on my top 3 of vendors for quality and reliable DC distribution equipment for mobile applications. Quite the opposite of "utter trash".

I use them, along with Victron Energy and Bussmann/Eaton on a regular basis.

What were you expecting from a cigarette lighter outlet aside from it just meeting its spec requirements?

Just as a new example to not rehash what's already been covered-- the metallurgy on the terminals is so bad that the strain from a loose 8ga stranded wire is enough to bend them to a concerning degree. I ended up having to fab up my own strain relief to compensate. They're trash. I will never buy another one of their products.

 

[Bumbo]

Just as a new example to not rehash what's already been covered-- the metallurgy on the terminals is so bad that the strain from a loose 8ga stranded wire is enough to bend them to a concerning degree. I ended up having to fab up my own strain relief to compensate. They're trash. I will never buy another one of their products.

You are entitled to your opinion, but that doesn't make it right. I've probably bought more BlueSea gear than your 4Runner is worth and never had an issue.

As to your example... it's a basic spade terminal and the socket has a max current handling of 15 amps.

The fact that you are running 8 AWG to an outlet like that says a lot... why not put a small distribution panel back there and run 14 AWG to the socket and leave some of that headroom for other loads?

 

[Cezar]

As to your example... it's a basic spade terminal and the socket has a max current handling of 15 amps.

The fact that you are running 8 AWG to an outlet like that says a lot... why not put a small distribution panel back there and run 14 AWG to the socket and leave some of that headroom for other loads?

8 gauge is just barely over the requirement in any wiring chart I've looked at for a 20 foot run, which is almost exactly how much wire you need to get from the socket to the battery. I could have gotten away with 10 but that would be foolish because I would be running wire with no upgrade headroom for future changes.

 

[DMX512]

Cezar,
How did you run your ground wire and what gauge? Was it a home run of the same gauge?

Complaining that an un-strain relieved pair of 8ga wires created a problem on some spade, or any, connectors speaks to your experience regarding wiring and power distribution. From your posts, I gather that you discovered a power problem at the connection, took it all apart, realized the weight of the cables were the issue and the decided to do a strain relief.

Poorly wired circuits can lead to a smoldering hunk of semi melted metal on the side of the road.

Blue Sea makes quality gear, period, regardless of your opinion. Talk with some boating and RV folks. I have a Blue Sea power distro block in my engine compartment and have had ZERO issues after 3 years.

 

[Cezar]

Cezar,
How did you run your ground wire and what gauge? Was it a home run of the same gauge?

I grounded it using the same gauge wire about a foot to the sheet metal.

Complaining that an un-strain relieved pair of 8ga wires created a problem on some spade, or any, connectors speaks to your experience regarding wiring and power distribution.

Chillax bro. I saw something I didn't like and I mentioned it. Other spade connectors I have experience with hold up better.

From your posts, I gather that you discovered a power problem at the connection, took it all apart, realized the weight of the cables were the issue and the decided to do a strain relief.

I saw a problem that had a chance to occur and remedied it before anything could or would happen. Yes I am a home-gamer not a pro installer. This is okay.

Poorly wired circuits can lead to a smoldering hunk of semi melted metal on the side of the road.

We agree.

Blue Sea makes quality gear, period, regardless of your opinion.

We disagree.

Talk with some boating and RV folks. I have a Blue Sea power distro block in my engine compartment and have had ZERO issues after 3 years.

Sounds totally plausible. I am glad you are happy with your purchase.

 

[DMX512]

Cezar
You, obviously, have it all under control.

 

[Bumbo]

8 gauge is just barely over the requirement in any wiring chart I've looked at for a 20 foot run, which is almost exactly how much wire you need to get from the socket to the battery. I could have gotten away with 10 but that would be foolish because I would be running wire with no upgrade headroom for future changes.

I don't disagree with your use of 8 AWG, that's a smart move, especially for future expansion.

I disagree with your assessment of Blue Sea. You are writing off an entire company of known quality based on your experience with one of the most inexpensive items in their catalog. It is built to spec, and better than it's peers. For a cig socket, id say that's pretty good considering the price.

As to your comments about twist lock, I get it, and know how most people would interpret it because I did the same. Apparently that's just how they are built across the board. There isn't standard here for plug/receptacle combo to make it a proper twist lock. Not really a Blue Sea problem.

I'm familiar with the charts... but they don't publish the voltage drop % either. It's not that the charts are wrong, it's just that they don't tell the fully story or what is acceptable for the application.

I have two charts that show 14 AWG (12.65% drop) and 8 AWG (3.14% drop) as acceptable selections for 20 feet of wire at 15 amps with both being on opposite ends of what's acceptable. I generally size between 5-10%.

The typical ARB 50 fridge uses about 60 watts running (about 5 amps) and has minimal startup surge currents. The problem was only a concern due to the very small OEM wiring and the contact resistance of these cig plugs. Doesn't take much to fix this. Sometimes just starting the engine to raise the system voltage is sufficient to eliminate the problem

I've spent 10+ years in DC power distribution and design. I've helped a lot of people on this forum with their electrical and dual battery setups as well.

I got no problem with overkill... but your experience hanging 8 AWG off a spade connector tab doesn't surprise me. I would have terminated that to fuse block, and used 14 AWG branch fused at 15A for the cig socket.

ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

At least now if your boat catches on fire... you can call a company in the US that actually has liability insurance.

 

[DMX512]

Bumbo
The Neutrik Power Con is a great positive lock connector.
The profile is a bit long/high but it is a great connector.
Check out the Tru One connectors. They can mate together to make an extension w/o a barrel.

 

[Cezar]

Cezar
You, obviously, have it all under control.

Lol. Jerk. Also lol that you are from my city.

I don't disagree with your use of 8 AWG, that's a smart move, especially for future expansion.

I disagree with your assessment of Blue Sea. You are writing off an entire company of known quality based on your experience with one of the most inexpensive items in their catalog. It is built to spec, and better than it's peers. For a cig socket, id say that's pretty good considering the price.

As to your comments about twist lock, I get it, and know how most people would interpret it because I did the same. Apparently that's just how they are built across the board. There isn't standard here for plug/receptacle combo to make it a proper twist lock. Not really a Blue Sea problem.

I'm familiar with the charts... but they don't publish the voltage drop % either. It's not that the charts are wrong, it's just that they don't tell the fully story or what is acceptable for the application.

I have two charts that show 14 AWG (12.65% drop) and 8 AWG (3.14% drop) as acceptable selections for 20 feet of wire at 15 amps with both being on opposite ends of what's acceptable. I generally size between 5-10%.

The typical ARB 50 fridge uses about 60 watts running (about 5 amps) and has minimal startup surge currents. The problem was only a concern due to the very small OEM wiring and the contact resistance of these cig plugs. Doesn't take much to fix this. Sometimes just starting the engine to raise the system voltage is sufficient to eliminate the problem

I've spent 10+ years in DC power distribution and design. I've helped a lot of people on this forum with their electrical and dual battery setups as well.

I got no problem with overkill... but your experience hanging 8 AWG off a spade connector tab doesn't surprise me. I would have terminated that to fuse block, and used 14 AWG branch fused at 15A for the cig socket.

ST Blade Fuse Block - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus and Cover - Blue Sea Systems

At least now if your boat catches on fire... you can call a company in the US that actually has liability insurance.

Good post.

 

[Bumbo]

Bumbo
The Neutrik Power Con is a great positive lock connector.
The profile is a bit long/high but it is a great connector.
Check out the Tru One connectors. They can mate together to make an extension w/o a barrel.

Agreed. I have the Neutrik connector pictured in my connector photo on post #20.

I don't have the power version of it, but I know they are color coded and keyed to prevent plugging stuff into the wrong stuff.

I still prefer Anderson for power connections... but I bought the Neutrik for my home theater subwoofer cabinet build. Makes for an easy connection to pro audio amps.

Just because I had them... I used the Neutrik Speakon twist-lock on my portable lithium powerpack I built. (Colors match the ARB... small things make me happy lol)

 

[Cezar]

I have some home audio stuff using Neutrik Speakon and it's great. I would never think to use it for something other than balanced audio.