MStudt
official vendor
Now I'm confused. With the original TRAC OFF switch I have, I don't need a relay?
Andy MOD question
- Thread starter MStudt
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Now I'm confused. With the original TRAC OFF switch I have, I don't need a relay?
nor_cal51501
New member
You and me both. I'm 99.9% sure the trac off switch will require a relay. If I'm wrong, that would be news to me about that switch being a normal closed switch(not pressed) and open (pressed).
sportrunner2001
New member
now were all confused
check your original switch and see if its closed when not pressed and open when pressed. I have a feeling the middle pin in the switch becomes closed when it is depressed and the outside pin opens at that moment, or vise versa.
if that can get figured out then we can find out how it actually works and make better decisions haha
MStudt
official vendor
I'm pretty sure you're correct about needing the relay. I already have the trac off switch, and the diff lock switch is on its way. So either way I'm covered. I'm 100% sure when hooking the ohm meter up, it read 1 without touching anything. When I held the button in, the ohm meter went up, and back down when I released the button.
Now it's time to see if I can get the trac off cover off the switch to swap over to the diff switch.
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98OzarksRunner
New member
If the switch reads 0 ohms (or near it) with the switch released, and infinite with it pressed, it is a normally closed switch, which will leave the VSC in its normal (active) mode until you press the switch (opening the circuit, turning off the VSC). VSC will remain off until you restart the truck.
If the switch reads the other way - 0 when it's pressed and infinite when it's released, you will need the relay.
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nor_cal51501
New member
Posted that reply on the wrong thread on accident, here it is again in the RIGHT thread. That will teach me to click away without paying attention. lol.
I double checked your first post and I was correct. That "TRAC OFF" switch you were using originally is designed to be an OPEN circuit (no current passes through the connections until you press the button and CLOSE the circuit then current passes through the circuit). In order to do the Andy mod you need the circuit to be CLOSED for normal operation of the vehicle (VSC and TRAC ENABLED). The TRAC OFF switch you have will basically ALWAYS be OPEN (TRAC and VSC DISABLED) until you push it and it CLOSES the circuit. The problem with this type of switch is that it is reverse of what we need to maintain normal operation of the VSC and TRAC systems. In order for normal operation we need the circuit to ALWAYS be CLOSED until we decide to DISABLE the VSC and TRAC systems, which is where we OPEN the circuit and cause a fault (disrupt the ground) turning off the VSC and TRAC systems. If the TRAC off switch was the opposite way, normally CLOSED then when pushed OPEN then the switch could be wired without any issue, but thats not the case. Does this clear things up?
I double checked your first post and I was correct. That "TRAC OFF" switch you were using originally is designed to be an OPEN circuit (no current passes through the connections until you press the button and CLOSE the circuit then current passes through the circuit). In order to do the Andy mod you need the circuit to be CLOSED for normal operation of the vehicle (VSC and TRAC ENABLED). The TRAC OFF switch you have will basically ALWAYS be OPEN (TRAC and VSC DISABLED) until you push it and it CLOSES the circuit. The problem with this type of switch is that it is reverse of what we need to maintain normal operation of the VSC and TRAC systems. In order for normal operation we need the circuit to ALWAYS be CLOSED until we decide to DISABLE the VSC and TRAC systems, which is where we OPEN the circuit and cause a fault (disrupt the ground) turning off the VSC and TRAC systems. If the TRAC off switch was the opposite way, normally CLOSED then when pushed OPEN then the switch could be wired without any issue, but thats not the case. Does this clear things up?
98OzarksRunner
New member
But what he described sounds like a NORMALLY CLOSED switch. Here's his statement:
If it is reading 1 ohm with the button released, presumably it's reading infinite resistance when it's pressed (thus normally closed).
nor_cal51501
New member
That's what I thought as well, then I read his separate post here. http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/166907-switch-question.html#post1679860
"No current passes through the switch until the button is pressed."
So I realized its an open momentary switch until pressed and it becomes a closed momentary switch. Also, I remember reading a while back that this is a momentary switch that won't work without a relay, I just don't quite remember if it was due to the open/closed issue or the momentary issue, but I feel rather sure it's the open/closed issue.
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98OzarksRunner
New member
I think you want the wire connected to 87 (normally closed) instead of 87A, but you can always move the connector if it's backwards.
MStudt
official vendor
Fixed. That's actually how i meant for it to be. Does it matter which terminal I use when connecting to the ECU?
nor_cal51501
New member
Im guessing you are using the trac off switch instead of the RR Diff lock switch then?
MStudt
official vendor
Yes I am, or plan to. I do have the diff lock switch in hand just in case this doesn't do it.
nor_cal51501
New member
Got it, it will look really good when you get it finished. I chose not to do it that way because theres already too many wires from my diff lock install cluttering that corner of my dash, also, I'm usually lost when it comes to relays. Eventually ill learn when i get to my lighting needs, but until then….Good luck, ill keep up and hope it works out easy for you. Take lots of pics. :bounce:
MStudt
official vendor
I will certainly do that. I know there are some people who have not been able to use the trac off switch. So this should help out everyone.
MStudt
official vendor
Wiring it like the above diagram does not work! I'm clueless now.
*EDIT* I really just think I'm missing something. Should I be using all 5 wires, rather than just 4?
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98OzarksRunner
New member
And you did this? Cut the red wire with the black tracer (V18 pin 3)?
AndyMod 2.0. ABS Remains Active. - YotaTech Forums
You should be able to cut that wire and turn off the VSC/TRAC. That'll verify you have the right wire. Then connect the ends to relay pin 30 and 87. Verify the relay energizes when you press the button (hold the relay and you should feel it click). If both of these happen, it should disable the VSC/TRAC. You have to have the engine running when you press the button (obviously) and it should stay off until you restart the engine. You might have to hold the button for a few seconds (I notice it takes a few seconds before it turns off when I flip the switch - 5 to 10 seconds).
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MStudt
official vendor
Yep! I cut the that exact wire, and when I started it the lights came on for the VSC/TRAC (meaning disabled). Next I grounded pin 86, supplied power pin 85 from my switch, and supplied power to my switch. Start the 4runner, the VSC/TRAC lights come on (meaning disabled). If I move to the 87 and 87a terminals. The VSC/TRAC lights stay off, however the button does not disable the VSC/TRAC. I'm really kind of thinking we need to use all five wires to do this.
Should be like this. Pretty sure the relay needs it own power suppley just like the switch.
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