phattyduck
Elite Member
I'd avoid that for now. Lots of little parts in there that might spring out...
-Charlie
Another 4WD broken thread
- Thread starter chattyT4R
- Start date
-Charlie
Opened up the computer and it looks fine mostly, there was one chip looking thing and I’ll attach a close up pic of it. It looks like one corner is a little melted/warped/glossy. And then there’s a bit of white on it that I very carefully scraped off a bit and it looks like just paint or something, the chip under doesn’t look damaged. Any thoughts?
I can’t get the pic to upload but here is a link
Dropbox - Photo Jan 31, 2 11 10 PM.jpg
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[MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] Thinking there may be a break in one of the sensor wires. Is there a way I can test them? Should there be contiuity or voltage coming in to the plug in for each sensor? Going to check for voltage because how else would it check continuity, but let me know if you have any better ideas
TheDurk
Elite Member
No.... check for continuity. Should be open in 2H, and closed in 4H or 4L or whatever the sensor is supposed to sense. Check at the 4wd ECU plug, with the plug off the ECU.
I tested the stop switch thing on page 3 of this
TR-50 Inspection (2000 4Runner) One Touch 2-4 Selector System.pdf - Google Drive
And only found continuity between pins 5&4 (I believe. Wasn’t quite sure on the diagram labeling but two pins on the same row that were next to eachother)
What could this be?
TR-50 Inspection (2000 4Runner) One Touch 2-4 Selector System.pdf - Google Drive
And only found continuity between pins 5&4 (I believe. Wasn’t quite sure on the diagram labeling but two pins on the same row that were next to eachother)
What could this be?
So a little update and some info.
I started looking in to my old transfer case specifically the actuator, and made a “map” of the limit switches in an attempt to retime the one on my car (I’m thinking mine is just out of position)
Here’s a link to some diagrams and pictures of the inner workings of the actuator some might find interesting or useful
Dropbox - 4Runner - Simplify your life
Let me know if the link doesn’t work or if anyone wants me to look into more stuff, I am willing to look more into the actuator but there’s not a whole lot to it. [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
I started looking in to my old transfer case specifically the actuator, and made a “map” of the limit switches in an attempt to retime the one on my car (I’m thinking mine is just out of position)
Here’s a link to some diagrams and pictures of the inner workings of the actuator some might find interesting or useful
Dropbox - 4Runner - Simplify your life
Let me know if the link doesn’t work or if anyone wants me to look into more stuff, I am willing to look more into the actuator but there’s not a whole lot to it. [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION]
So I put everything back together, shifted into 2WD. I had the actuator set, transfer case set, front diff set, I confirmed it was in 2WD by spinning driveshafts and wheels.
I started it up, 4WD light was indicating it was in 2WD and everything was fine
Put in in reverse, back up maybe 3 feet, and my actuator went wild and shifted itself into m/m and the light started blinking again...
So basically back to where I started.
I think at this point the only thing that could be messing up would be a bad computer or a issue with wiring.
I am going to a local yota scrapyard that I like to pick up another computer and plug it in, see if that works.
If it doesn't, I am going to bring it to a local shop (who happens to be owned by the brother of the scrapyard owner) and ask them to see if they know whats wrong, and then most likely end up asking them to try to retrofit in a purely mechanical transfer case.
I started it up, 4WD light was indicating it was in 2WD and everything was fine
Put in in reverse, back up maybe 3 feet, and my actuator went wild and shifted itself into m/m and the light started blinking again...
So basically back to where I started.
I think at this point the only thing that could be messing up would be a bad computer or a issue with wiring.
I am going to a local yota scrapyard that I like to pick up another computer and plug it in, see if that works.
If it doesn't, I am going to bring it to a local shop (who happens to be owned by the brother of the scrapyard owner) and ask them to see if they know whats wrong, and then most likely end up asking them to try to retrofit in a purely mechanical transfer case.
Jaysen4runner
New member
My buddy 4runner had the same issue. It was the tcase, center lock was stuck and was not unlocking. I swap a new used tcase in everything went back to normal. Btw it's a 2000 limited multi mode tcase.
Idk if that’s it, I was able to unlock the center diff manually just not with the shift lever
Tried a new computer, no luck
It seems like for some reason my actuator is just being told to shift all the way out regardless of what input I give
I am going to try jumping the actuator with the new computer in, and then seeing if “resetting” it to 2wd will work. If not I am going to give it to a shop that’s good with these 4runners and let them try it out.
If anyone has an idea of why my actuator just wants to pull the shift lever all the way out let me know
It seems like for some reason my actuator is just being told to shift all the way out regardless of what input I give
I am going to try jumping the actuator with the new computer in, and then seeing if “resetting” it to 2wd will work. If not I am going to give it to a shop that’s good with these 4runners and let them try it out.
If anyone has an idea of why my actuator just wants to pull the shift lever all the way out let me know
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phattyduck
Elite Member
Might happen if something is broken inside the transfer case... (getting wrong position signals from the switches that are part of the actuator)If anyone has an idea of why my actuator just wants to pull the shift lever all the way out let me know
-Charlie
If both position sensors on the actuator are working, is it still possible that it could be getting the wrong signals?
phattyduck
Elite Member
I don’t believe there is a mechanical issue with the transfer case. What I’m finding now is that even if I jump actuator to 2WD, as soon as I plug it back in it returns itself to the mm position and then the lights flash
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Just posting some useful information incase anyone reads through this as I have with several other threads trying to find information or solutions for their own info
Post #10 here has information about the pin numbering and what each is for on the transfer case connector plug
Feasibility of a "J"-Shift to Multi-Mode Transfer Case Swap
Post #10 here has information about the pin numbering and what each is for on the transfer case connector plug
Feasibility of a "J"-Shift to Multi-Mode Transfer Case Swap
Also thinking about trying to swap in a mechanical transfer case so as not to deal with the stupid f*cking actuator anymore.
If anyone has good threads or info on what is needed as far as parts/labor/wiring definitely send it to me. I have found a couple leads but most seem to get diverted off topic or are dead ended, or are people trying to switch from j-shift to multimode like the one in the link above
If anyone has good threads or info on what is needed as far as parts/labor/wiring definitely send it to me. I have found a couple leads but most seem to get diverted off topic or are dead ended, or are people trying to switch from j-shift to multimode like the one in the link above
BrianSD_42
New member
Have you bright it to any of the shops in CO that have A LOT if experience with Toyota's? There has to be quite a few it there. I would call around, ask around here on the forum (visit the CO section of T4R) and locate a good Toyota speciality shop. It sounds to me like you are contemplating spending thousands for a second time on an actuator issue.
Yeah there is definitely a shop somewhat close to me that I like. I was going to call them and ask them what they think, they were the one's last time who swapped the actuator, and the easiest way to do that was with a used transfer case that had a working actuator. If it ends up being a repair that goes the same route, I will probably ask if they can use a mechanical one instead so as to not have to deal with the actuator again
BrianSD_42
New member
I would definitely go to a different Toyota speciality shop for a second opinion. The odds of the exact same issue happening again like this, so close together.... not likely. I don't think this is even a very common failure but that is just my guess. Highly suggest you get a totally different look over by a Toyota focused shop, pay them to diagnose it but not the same shop.
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FIXED!!!
I found the issue - a broken wire. One little wire with all this hardwork. Crimped it, soldered it, repaired it and 4wd is back online. I shifted in and out of 2HI and 4HI, but I am going to avoid multi mode for a bit.
YouTube
Here is a video I found while researching that contained some good info on how toyota T-cases work. The video is for a 01-04 Tundra I believe, but it uses the same actuator and front actuator as the 01-02 4Runners. 99-00 4Runners with multimode use a very similiar system.
I found the issue - a broken wire. One little wire with all this hardwork. Crimped it, soldered it, repaired it and 4wd is back online. I shifted in and out of 2HI and 4HI, but I am going to avoid multi mode for a bit.
YouTube
Here is a video I found while researching that contained some good info on how toyota T-cases work. The video is for a 01-04 Tundra I believe, but it uses the same actuator and front actuator as the 01-02 4Runners. 99-00 4Runners with multimode use a very similiar system.
