Another '85 frame rust thread

brosama

brosama

New member
I've recently joined the forum world (long time reader/search/lurker) and some interest in my 85 was generated in the 3rd gen section.

I picked it up with about 130K miles from the original owner at a decent price. It's got some good things going for it, but it needs a little love which I don't mind doing as part of my build. I'm at a decision point soon since I may be looking at a motor rebuild or long block. My concern is with the frame rust. It's been in CA it's whole life (in the mountains so there was snow) with a few trips to Canada.

From what I can tell so far, all the spots in the rear half of the vehicle don't seem to be too bad. The front half was well-lubed with oil leaks so it looks good.

Most of it seems to be surface rust/patina and it seems strong when I test it with a hammer. There is very little surface rust on the body so I'm not worried about that. No major flakes, holes, or rot on anything.

What is the best way to test for strength? Or, what's the best way to tell if this is something that I can roll with after the standard rust treatment procedures? Or, should I jump ship with my other options (sell completely, new frame, etc.)?









Here's some pictures to start with, I'll grab more this weekend. Let me know if there are any specific areas I should grab some shots of.

Thanks!
 
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If you want it to be a more permanent solution, check into POR 15. It's really stouut stuff.
 
That surface rust can be treated with several coats of Loctite Extend rust converter.
But you really need to look at the frame much much closer.
The real rust problem with the frame is on the inside. They rust from the inside out, and by the time you can see it break thru, it's bad.
The holes in the frame allow it to fill up with sediment that holds moisture, which causes the rust. If you don't clean out and treat the inside, don't waste your time on treating the outside.
Take a small hammer and start tapping all over, especially over the rear axle, anywhere the frame turns upwards from horizontal, and where the fuel tank sits against the frame. Both the inner and outer face of each frame rail. That will help you find the bad spots.

I learned all this the hard way, and believe me, a frame swap is a PITA.
 
Awesome, thanks guys for the help!

fourwd1 said:
If you don't clean out and treat the inside, don't waste your time on treating the outside.
Click to expand...

[MENTION=1857]fourwd1[/MENTION] what's the best way to clean and treat the inside? I have noticed some sediment through the (factory) holes.



fourwd1 said:
Take a small hammer and start tapping all over, especially over the rear axle, anywhere the frame turns upwards from horizontal, and where the fuel tank sits against the frame. Both the inner and outer face of each frame rail. That will help you find the bad spots.

I learned all this the hard way, and believe me, a frame swap is a PITA.
Click to expand...

So when I tap with the hammer, should I just be feeling and listening for a consistent sound throughout all areas? Or, is there something I should be particularly focused on?

I agree on the frame swap. From what I've gathered on the interwebs it looks like a lot of work. Not to mention having to find a good condition frame from the same rig.

I'll be doing this investigation soon as I have a motor rebuild/swap on deck but I need to figure this out before I make any further moves.

Thanks again:mullet:
 
Listen for the subtle sound of the hammer going through the frame. Not that it looks that bad. Wash it up underneath really good so there isn't any residual salt sitting on the top of the gas tank or in the frame.
 
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