Another coolant thread...

[AntleredRuin]

OK, so not looking to start a flame war and I know that there are 14 dozen other coolant threads, but this has not been covered. (unless I'm blind)
I'm a bit over my 30k coolant flush interval (34k miles in 19 month; I drive a lot).

My last flush was done with distilled water and OEM Toyota Red, but I've been doing more research and I'm seeing the Zerex Asian Coolant pop up everywhere.

<b>Question 1:</b>

Is this:
Antifreeze/Coolant Zerex 675130 - Engine Coolant/Antifreeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The same as this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Asian-Vehicle-Antifreeze-with-Zerex-Pre-Mix-1-gal/49660461

Zerex Asian is Valvoline brand and is pretty difficult to come by. Has to be pre-ordered at most Parts Houses and costs $15+ /gallon.
So I'd ASSUME Valvoline Asian w/ Zerex technology would be the same thing.
I've seen this plenty at Walmart for $12/Gallon. Cheaper and a lot easier to get ahold of because let's face it; even though most Walmarts are actually built over Hellmouths, we all visit one at least once every 2 weeks. No need for an extra trip to a parts house.

<b>Question 2: </b>(in the form of several questions)

How to flush with 50/50 coolant without wasting a ton? If I do a full flush with distilled water again, I'd always have some water in the block. If I fill the radiator with the 50/50, how do I get the water out? Will removing the thermostat get most of the water out of the block? Or will I simply have to fill the radiator with 50/50, run the truck till at operating temps, cool down, then drain and fill (and repeat)? Kinda like a tranny drain and fill (eventually you get all the old stuff out).

With the non-diluted Toyota Red, I simply flushed with distilled water, and once the flush was done, drained the radiator, filled with the Toyota Red, and topped off with a smidge of distilled water. Wasn't 50/50; more like 55/45, but close enough.

<b>And Question 3: </b>

I'm leaning toward 50/50 for this reason (someone please tell me if my reasoning is wrong). Instead of doing a full flush every 30k (not hard but time consuming) I can simply do a drain and fill whenever I want. Every other oil change (for example; can be longer) I can simply drain the radiator and top off with new coolant. Roughly, 3 drain and fills will mean all brand new coolant in the system. Hell, I can do this in the parking lot at work during my lunch break if I want to, to give myself more free time on the weekends. Never again a need for a FULL flush. Also safer in the event of a coolant leak. Top off with the 50/50 to keep the ratio steady while trying to locate the leak. Is this reasoning sound?

 

[Harleydoc]

This stuff is easy to find


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[AntleredRuin]

This stuff is easy to find


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Not arguing that, but if I'm going to spend $17 a gallon for 50/50 (at 2.5 gallons = $42.5), I might as well simply get one gallon non-diluted OEM Toyota Red from Amazon for $30 and dilute it myself.

 

[Harleydoc]

Not arguing that, but if I'm going to spend $17 a gallon for 50/50 (at 2.5 gallons = $42.5), I might as well simply get one gallon non-diluted OEM Toyota Red from Amazon for $30 and dilute it myself.

It is not 50/50


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[AntleredRuin]

It is not 50/50


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It says 50/50 Prediluted on the container in the picture and Prediluted in the description. Google for a less blurry picture if necessary.

 

[Harleydoc]

It says 50/50 Prediluted on the container in the picture and Prediluted in the description. Google for a less blurry picture if necessary. Maybe I'm wrong though; I make an ass out of myself for simple things all the time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

[AntleredRuin]

Dude, I'm not trying to argue. Why would you trust the description on a Parts House website over what it actually says on the bottle? They have tens of thousands of products that are on their websites. All entered into the system by an entry level employee who's brain dead from that kind of repetitive work. There are going to be mistakes.
This picture, then I'm done. Says 50/50 right on the bottle.

 

[jgue467]

Q2: yes removing the thermo will let most of the coolant out. I used toyo red at $20/gal. :cowboy:

 

[AntleredRuin]

Q2: yes removing the thermo will let most of the coolant out. I used toyo red at $20/gal. :cowboy:

OK, good to know, thank you. Where did you get it for $20/gal? Dang good price. I shopped around and found that Amazon's $30/gal was a good price, but apparently I missed something.

 

[jgue467]

Local austin dealer, well was $22 w/tax....

 

[atalarico]

Well, judging by your location, I don't think I'd sweat having a slightly higher percentage of water in your coolant mix. Honestly, I think you're over analyzing it a bit (trust me, I have the same problem...err I mean...gift).

As for what to get, my local dealer had the LLC concentrate for $1 more than Amazon, so I just got it there.

If you really want to go nuts though, do the flush and fill, run it for a couple of days, and then drain a small amount and measure it using one of those coolant mix measurement bulb things.

Hope that helps!

 

[AntleredRuin]

Local austin dealer, well was $22 w/tax....

Ha wow not bad at all. I only have one dealer near me, and it's pretty out of the way. Probably not worth the gas and time even if it's a bit cheaper.

Well, judging by your location, I don't think I'd sweat having a slightly higher percentage of water in your coolant mix. Honestly, I think you're over analyzing it a bit (trust me, I have the same problem...err I mean...gift).

If you really want to go nuts though, do the flush and fill, run it for a couple of days, and then drain a small amount and measure it using one of those coolant mix measurement bulb things.

Hope that helps!

Oh, I over-analyze everything. It's a PITA, but to my credit, I rarely make mistakes or have buyer's remorse. I'd rather agonize at first and do something right, then half-ass it and have regrets later.
That being said, getting 'close enough' is OK with me; I don't need it exact. I'd just rather not have the ratio be anything crazy like 70/30. I monitor my temps with Torque so I won't have any surprises.

I'll probably do a full flush so I can change my T-stat, and go with the Walmart bottle:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline...1-gal/49660461

I found this link after creating this thread:
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4040750/1/Valvoline_Asian_Vehicle_Antifr
(it's crazy how all the answers to your questions pop up AFTER you create a new post. Slightly changing how you word something when Googling makes a huge difference.)
According to Ashland/Valvoline, its the same as the standard Zerex Asian, just packaged differently. And everyone here trusts the Zerex Asian, so there you go.

Fun fact: in Houston / Harris County, it is legal to dump used antifreeze/coolant down the drain/sewer. So if I really wanted to, I could just park in a parking spot over a drain at work and drain the radiator that way during lunch. Environment be damned.

 

[mtbtim]

Well Sheeeeeet. [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a video that fits well with this subject. Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/oQsxmi-CNng" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[TheDurk]

!. This question is answered right on the WalMart web page you linked:

Is this the same as 'Zerex 675130 Asian Vehicle Anitfreeze' which is 'Red' ?
Report
by S6/23/2016
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This name will display with your questions

A.From Valvoline customer representative: The Zerex part numbers 675130 and 871668 are the same in formulation, but feature different color dye packs. The 675130 is red, while 871668 is blue. This has been done to coincide with manufacturer factory fill colors, as well as chemical formulation.
by Steve3/21/2017

675130 is the Zerex Asian. 871668 is the one at WalMart. We all know putting blue coolant in a Toyota will cause instant melting of the block and possible nuclear detonation.

2. Can't help with this one as I stick with full-strength Toyota Red. My source for Zerex Asian is NAPA which charges $15/gal. I can get Toyota Red on Amazon Prime for $32 shipped. Even at $12/gal for this blue stuff, for $8 difference in cost of two gallons, I'll stick to Red.

3. I prefer to flush at 50K. I'm running a factory rad at 170k so it deserves the best. (I have a 5-speed so no milkshake worries.) You will probably be fine doing it your way.

 

[AntleredRuin]

!. This question is answered right on the WalMart web page you linked:



675130 is the Zerex Asian. 871668 is the one at WalMart. We all know putting blue coolant in a Toyota will cause instant melting of the block and possible nuclear detonation.

2. Can't help with this one as I stick with full-strength Toyota Red. My source for Zerex Asian is NAPA which charges $15/gal. I can get Toyota Red on Amazon Prime for $32 shipped. Even at $12/gal for this blue stuff, for $8 I'll stick to Red.

3. I prefer to flush at 50K. I'm running a factory rad at 170k so it deserves the best. (I have a 5-speed so no milkshake worries.) You will probably be fine doing it your way.

Yep I saw that after posting as well. Same thing with the bobistheoilguy link. Search for hours(ish), create a new thread, then immediately find what you were looking for afterwards. Of course. Well at least now I'm doubly sure, right?
Of course, the other Q&A answers (from late 3/2017) say that it's red. So I'll get a jug and check for myself soon.
I have my auto tranny on it's own cooler, so same here. Tranny lines in the original radiator blown clean and capped in case the radiator still fails.

 

[gamefreakgc]

OK, so not looking to start a flame war and I know that there are 14 dozen other coolant threads, but this has not been covered. (unless I'm blind)
I'm a bit over my 30k coolant flush interval (34k miles in 19 month; I drive a lot).

My last flush was done with distilled water and OEM Toyota Red, but I've been doing more research and I'm seeing the Zerex Asian Coolant pop up everywhere.

<b>Question 1:</b>

Is this:
Antifreeze/Coolant Zerex 675130 - Engine Coolant/Antifreeze | O'Reilly Auto Parts
The same as this:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvoline-Asian-Vehicle-Antifreeze-with-Zerex-Pre-Mix-1-gal/49660461

Zerex Asian is Valvoline brand and is pretty difficult to come by. Has to be pre-ordered at most Parts Houses and costs $15+ /gallon.
So I'd ASSUME Valvoline Asian w/ Zerex technology would be the same thing.
I've seen this plenty at Walmart for $12/Gallon. Cheaper and a lot easier to get ahold of because let's face it; even though most Walmarts are actually built over Hellmouths, we all visit one at least once every 2 weeks. No need for an extra trip to a parts house.

<b>Question 2: </b>(in the form of several questions)

How to flush with 50/50 coolant without wasting a ton? If I do a full flush with distilled water again, I'd always have some water in the block. If I fill the radiator with the 50/50, how do I get the water out? Will removing the thermostat get most of the water out of the block? Or will I simply have to fill the radiator with 50/50, run the truck till at operating temps, cool down, then drain and fill (and repeat)? Kinda like a tranny drain and fill (eventually you get all the old stuff out).

With the non-diluted Toyota Red, I simply flushed with distilled water, and once the flush was done, drained the radiator, filled with the Toyota Red, and topped off with a smidge of distilled water. Wasn't 50/50; more like 55/45, but close enough.

<b>And Question 3: </b>

I'm leaning toward 50/50 for this reason (someone please tell me if my reasoning is wrong). Instead of doing a full flush every 30k (not hard but time consuming) I can simply do a drain and fill whenever I want. Every other oil change (for example; can be longer) I can simply drain the radiator and top off with new coolant. Roughly, 3 drain and fills will mean all brand new coolant in the system. Hell, I can do this in the parking lot at work during my lunch break if I want to, to give myself more free time on the weekends. Never again a need for a FULL flush. Also safer in the event of a coolant leak. Top off with the 50/50 to keep the ratio steady while trying to locate the leak. Is this reasoning sound?

Q1 - Answered.

Q2 - Only need to do a full flush if you are changing fluid type (color) or you have particularly bad fluid in there. If you are doing a flush, there's a drain plug on the engine block. A little tricky to find but it's there. Pulling the thermostat will have the same effect. If you don't it's not the end of the world, but you'll have more like 60% water in there.

Q3 - 50/50 is easiest. You only have to do a full flush like mentioned above, otherwise just drain radiator, fill radiator, done.

 

[Moonbandit]

The previous owner to my 4runner said he did a full flush but used supertech wally brand.
I did go through the trouble of doing a drain and refill with the same supetech Walmart brand since at the very least it is fresh coolant plus at $8 /gallon non diluted.

Anyone think this super tech coolant is just garbage? Says good for 150,000 miles and my coolant temps stay at 186-190.4 at all times according to Torque app.

Wondering if I should splurge on Toyota red... hmmm

 

[reelamin]

I woke up to a nightmare...it's re-occurring and it just never stops. Can anyone help me???? I'm drowning in coolant threads! Every time I get on the dock before I get to land the same coolant information circles around and washes me back into the coolant ocean. LOL

 

[amalik]

3. I prefer to flush at 50K. I'm running a factory rad at 170k so it deserves the best. (I have a 5-speed so no milkshake worries.) You will probably be fine doing it your way.

Durk,

I always forget to ask you, what's your method of draining, and what's your method of flushing?

i.e. do you block or thermostat drain each time? and do you hose flush?

I'm approaching 50k miles on my coolant and would like to follow some good footsteps.

 

[TheDurk]

Durk,

I always forget to ask you, what's your method of draining, and what's your method of flushing?

i.e. do you block or thermostat drain each time? and do you hose flush?

I'm approaching 50k miles on my coolant and would like to follow some good footsteps.

Well, this last one, I pulled the radiator and set it up with a hose flowing through it in one direction for ten minutes and then flipped it and did the other way.

Then I ran the hose through both heater cores and then blew them out with air.

The engine I opened the block drain and and the radiator hose was out. Once it was all back together, I filled up with distilled, ran it to the alignment shop and back, drained from the rad, dumped in a gallon of Red, and topped off.

Of course, I had the radiator off anyway because I was doing my frame swap so I could stick the hose in it while I was doing something else on the truck. And I was being pretty OCD about everything.

Next time, I will probably not be so OCD. I did not run hose water through the block. I just worry too much gets stuck in there. And I have VERY low calcium hardness and low iron content mountain well water or I wouldn't do it at all. The rad and cores got completely cleaned out and then flushed.

Honestly, I don't have a fixed program. It depends on my level of energy and my concern about the vehicle involved. I would be way more aggressive with a car I had not maintained myself where the coolant looked funky. I'm happy to say it has been years since I've had to deal with one of those.